SEWING CHINE MODEL b3r WHITE

Transcription

1 SEWING CHINE MODEL 1120 b3r WHITE

2 Hoo to use accesories 16 Lace Trimmed Hem 18 Click imp for Sniootli Sei imig 35 The Narrow Hemmer 18 Threading Bobbin Carrier 10 Setting the Stitch Length 13 Removing the Bobbin 9 Winding the Bobbin 8 Upper Threading H Adjusting the Tensions 12 Automatic Darner... Chancing the Belt 34 Removing the Work 15 Preparine to Sew 15 Adjusting Pressure 14 Setting the Needle 6 Stitch Length Chart 13 Features and Parts 3 Page Needle and Thread Chart 7 Sewing n Reverse 13 Drop Feed Adjustment 14 The Set of itemmers 21 Replacing Light Bulb 33 The Attachment Foot 20 The Binder 23 The Cutting Gauge 24 The Seam Gausre 26 The Quilter 29 Cleaning and Oiling llol Asenibl 32 Oiling 30 Shirring Foot 30 The Edgetitcher 2 The Adjustable Cording and Zipper Foot 25 The Rufiler 26 Lace Edge with Invisible Stitching 19 Page Sewing in a Zipper 25 Care and Maintenance 30 INDEX : --. B

3 I To the Owner: We wish von many years of satisfying and successful sewing with your new Golden Bobbin Rotary sewing machine. Because of its functional design and simple controls it is easy to handle, easy to use and easy to keep in perfect condition. The horizontal bobbin carrier and hook, with the convenient drop-in bobbin assure you of carefree stitching. And it takes only a glance through the window in the cover plate to tell you when the bobbin needs filling. This book, written to acquaint you with the performance you can expect from your new Golden Bobbin model should be read carefully and kept with your machine for future reference. Time-saving accessories to fit this machine such as buttonholers, rufflers, automatic decorators and binders are available from your dealer or the store where you purchased the machine. Designed, Engineered and Guaranteed by WHITE SEWING MACHINE CORPORATION CLEVELAND 11, OHIO White Sewing Machine Products Ltd. Toronto 16, Ontario, Canada

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5 4 Fig zs Cover Plate with Bobbin Window Bed Reverse Stitch Button Stitch Length Dial Clutch Hand Wheel Bobbin Winding Pin Drop Feed Knob Needle Plate Seam Guide Hinged Presser Foot Arm Thread Guide Pressure Release - Darner Telescopic Spool Pin Bobbin Winder Bobbin Winding Tension Thread Guide Tension Regulator Built-in Handle Light Bulb Button Light Switch Needle Clamp Screw Face Plate Take-Up Lever Needle Bar Guide Foot and Attachment Screw (Front View) FEATURES AND PARTS YOU SHOULD KNOW 3

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7 5 Fig Light Housing 32. Feed 29. Motor 26. Thread Cutter 30. Belt 27. Presser Bar Lifter 31. Pulley (Back View) FEATURES AND PARTS YOU SHOULD KNOW

8 Fig. 3 FLAT SURFACED SIDE GROODE securely with a screw driver. clamp and push it upward as far as it will go into the itself. Place needle (C). flat side to right, in the needle needle clamp screw (B) and the needle clamp will open needle clamp hole. Fasten the needle clamp screw turning wheel toward you by hand. Then loosen the See Fig. 3. Raise the needle bar (A) to its highest point. SETTING THE NEEDLE

9 Per The following table will show the size of needles generally used with various sizes of thread. NEEDLE-THREAD-FABRIC-STITCHING GUIDE Needle Machine Stitches Cotton Mercerized Silk or Fabric No Inch Thread Thread Nylon Extremely heavy 6 10 tarpaulin, sacking. 4 to to Heavy Duty canvas, duck. etc 8 30 Heavy upholstery 8 30 fabric, ticking. 3 to to Heavy Duty denim. leatherette Medium heavy drapery fabric, velveteen, 2 to to suiting, felt, terry. etc Heavy Duty Medium broadcloth, percale. gingham. linen chintz, taffeta, sheer 1 to to wool. shantung. etc A Sheer voile. lawn dimity. crepe. 0 to to handkerchief linen A plastic film. etc (Plastic film 8 to 10) Very sheer chiffon batiste. lace, organdy. 00 to to ninon. net. marquisette. etc A

10 HOW TO WIND THE BOBBIN Turn the clutch in the center of the hand wheel (Fig. 4) toward you to disengage the sewing mechanism. Place a spool of thread on the spool pin on the bed of the machine (Fig. 5). Pass thread through tension disc A. Insert thread through a hole on edge of bobbin and place bobbin on spindle (B) of winder. Be sure that the notch in the bobbin fits over the small pin on the spindle. Place pulley (C) against hand wheel and set machine in motion. When the bobbin is fully wound, the action of the winder stops auto maticallv. Remove from spindle and cut off loose thread end used to start winding. Push bobbin winder away from hand wheel. Fig. 5 C e m If the bobbin winds unevenly, adjust the bobbin winding tension disc (A) to the right or left by loosening the screw. When the disc is in the proper position. tighten screw. Before starting to sew again. tighten clutch by turning it away from you. t

11 Fig. 6 9 Pick up bobbin A with thumb and forefinger of left hand. the hook assembly. (See Fig. 6.) position. Slide cover plate (12. Fig. 1) to the left, exposing Turn hand wheel to bring needle and take-up lever to highest HOW TO REMOVE BOBBIN

12 HOW TO THREAD BOBBIN CARRIER Hold bobbin in left hand with thread leading off the bottom of the bobbin from left to right, or counterclockwise. Fig. 7. (Needle should still be in highest position.) Drop bobbin into bobbin carrier B. Fig. 8. Pull bobbin thread into slot C and past slot D. with at least three inches of thread extending from carrier. Replace cover plate. letting bobbin thread pass through notch E above bobbin window on cover plate. (Fig. 9.) Fig. 7 Fig. 8 Fig. 9 10

13 I Fig. 10 Fig. 11 vl A end and turn hand wheel toward you. As the needle goes down and comes up again, the bobbin thread will be drawn up in and pass under presser foot toward back of machine. a loop through needle hole (see Fig. 11.). Grasp both threads 4. into check spring D 8. into needle bar guide H 2. lead thread through arm thread guide B 3. pass the thread down and around tension discs C from 5. then tug on thread to pull it around and into hook E 6. lead up to take-up lever F. threading from right to left. 9. and through needle I from left to right. 1. Place a spooi of thread on spool pin A 7. down into thread guide G 11 position. Pull up spool pin A. Fig. 10. then: Turn hand wheel toward you to raise take-up lever to highest right to left Pull about four inches of thread through needle. Hold thread HOW TO THREAD THE MACHINE

14 ADJUSTING THE TENSIONS Always adjust the upper tension with the presser foot down, as the tension is automatically released when it is raised. To increase the tension on the upper thread. turn dial (Fig. 12) to the right, or clockwise. To decrease, turn to the left. The higher the number on the dial the tighter the tension. 4 C Before adjusting lower tension be sure that the machine is threaded properly. When necessary to change the bobbin tension, turn screw A (Fig. 13) on side of the bobbin carrier clockwise to tighten. counter clockwise to loosen. When the upper and under tensions are properly balanced, a perfect stitch will be formed with both threads interlocking in fabric (Fig. 13). When the upper tension is too tight. the lower thread is pulled up upper thread which is lying flat on the fabric. When the under tension is too tight. the upper thread forms loops over the lower thread lying flat on the fabric Perfer Stitch ULJd dd Upper thread tension too tight Fig. 14 Under thread tension too tight

15 will sew backward as long as the button is held in. a seam, press in the Reverse button B. Fig. 15. as far as it will go. The machine When you wish to sew backward to tie the threads at the beginning or end of SEWING IN REVERSE Fig. 15 per inch Feeding B Number of stitches No Figures above dial STITCH LENGTH CHART (Approximate) Near 0 is the shortest stitch and 6 is the longest. Turn the dial to The length of the stitch is regulated by the dial A shown in Fig. 15. the left to lengthen and to the right to shorten the stitch. SETTING THE STITCH LENGTH 13

16 :- ± T of the feed and darner for various types of sewing. c Sewing thin material SILK Particallv down Sewing thick material REG. Completely down all the way to DARN position for darning. Turn dial to the right to return done. Turn knob A. Fig. 17. to SILK position to sew on thin materials, or The height of the feed can be adjusted to suit the fabric or type of work being Type of Sewing Drop Feed Darner Position Fi Darning DARN All the way up S feed to REG. or normal. Consult the following chart to determine the level C Fig. 6 DROP FEED ADJUSTMENT For a slighter pressure when sewing thin materials, push darner only part To return pressure to normal, push darner cap B all the way down again. B will pop up. freely for darning and mending. press down snap lock (A. Fig. 16) and cap To release the pressure from the presser foot so the material can be moved HOW TO USE THE DARNER, ADJUST PRESSURE way down. Test for correct position on a scrap of fabric.

17 needle. Leave the ends of thread under the presser foot. over the thread cutter. Pull down slightly. holding thread in both hands, so as not to bend the position. Now raise the presser foot and draw the fabric back and to the left, and pass the threads Be sure to stop the machine when the thread take.up lever and needle bar are located at the highest REMOVING THE WORK on the control. The speed of the machine is regulated by increasing or decreasing the amount of pressure exerted without material between presser foot and feed. Place material and threads in position under presser foot and lower the presser foot. Turn the hand Have take-up lever at highest point before starting to sew. After threading. NEVER run machine wheel toward you until the needle is at its highest point. You are now ready to begin sewing. PREPARING TO SEW

18 co o (-V I 0 0 t ) n C ( r 0 C LI) m (0 0 0 ( C (.3 (.) 0 a N -ø w 0 w w -gn, 0 (.n m (1) U) 0 m vs 0 ( C (0 0

19 TO SLIP ACCESSORIES (OR ATTACHMENTS) INTO PLACE... be sure needle is at highest point. Raise the presser foot with lifter. Loos en thumb screw holding foot on the presser bar (see arrow Fig. 18). Slip the presser foot down and off. Replace with Attachment. When attaching any accessory, or replacing the presser foot, always tighten thumb screw securely. Cheek to be sure it does not become loose during stitching..4 Draw uper and lower threads under attachment and to the back before sewing. Fig. 18 Edgestitcher page 22 Ruffler page 26 27, 28 Shirring foot page 30 Attachment foot Binder page 23, 24 page 20 17

20 THE NARROW HEMMER The narrow hemmer makes very fine hems quickly and neatly. For a plain narrow hem. make a ) inch double fold for about two inches along edge of fabric. Hold each end of the two inch fold, slip underneath hemmer. Bring fold up into the scroll of C hemmer, draw forward to end of hem and fasten with point of needle. Lower presser bar lifter. Hold ends of thread at back and draw slightly as you start stitching. Guide material slightly to right, and it will automatically take a double turn through scroll (Fig. 19). Fig. 19 e LACE TRIMMED HEM To sew a narrow hem and attach lace in one stitching, insert lace in slot next to needle (Fig. 20) Sew hem a above. guiding lace under needle and hem Into scroll. Keep the lace snug against the inside edge of the slot to be sure it will be sewed to the material. 18 Fig. 20

21 19 Fig. 22 Edgestitch to lay seam FIat (Fig. ). rolled edge in scroll of hemmer. FLAT FELLED SEAM. Open out Frenh seam and insert top fabric. makine Frenh seam. Insert in hemmer scroll. allowing hem to roh over and sew in of material 3z inch inside edce of lower piee. FRENCH SEAM. With richt sides tocether. place top piece Fig. 21 turned up. under scroll. both in scroll as for plain narrow hem (Fig. 21). Let hem roll over and sew in lace. Press lace out flat along edge with hem Hold lace inch from raw edge on right side of fabric. Insert It is possible to have a little fullness in lace by feeding it freely LACE EDGE WITH INVISIBLE STITCHING

22 THE ATTACHMENT FOOT Fig. 23 to the edge or away from it. distance, and tighten screw. In order to attach the Binder. Edgestitcher. and the Hemmers to your machine, it is necessary to remove the regular presser foot and replace it with the small Attachment Foot. Fig. 23. There is a large screw on the back of it with a clamping head that extends to the front. After the Attachment Foot has been put on the machine. press the screw forward and slip the large hole in the Binder. Edgestitcher. or Hemmers. over the clamping head. Slide the attachment to the left as far as possible and tighten screw so that the attachment is held firmly in place. The slot enables you to move it from left to right so that you can stitch close Adjust by loosening the screw at the back, move the attachment the desired 20

23 THE SET OF HEMMERS These four attachments make four widths of hems. approximately 14 inch. inch. inches and inches wide. Before attaching any of these hemmers. be sire bobbin thread is pulled up. Then. with hemmer in place. hold top thread loosely and turn handwheel one full turn to ward you, making a loop under hemmer. Grasp bobbin thread with both hands and slip horizontally under hemmer toward back. Bobbin thread will catch loop and carry upper thread to back of hemmer. Fold material in 3 inch for two inches along edge. hold at each end of fold. Slip fold into guide and up over spoon. (Fig. 24). Fold hem in material back of hemmer. Draw for ward to end of hem and fasten with point of needle. Pull on threads gently as you start stitching. Fig

24 22 slot 3. pipings. The slots serve as guides. To sew lace edging to fabric, piece in slot 4. fabric in slot 2 and the folded edge of the piping to the right in To trim with a wide piping. place the fabric in slot 4. and the fold The Edgestitcher is used in making lace insertions, edgings and THE EDGESTITCHER place the material you want on top in slot 1. Fig. 25. and the other of the piping to the left in slot 3. For a narrow piping. place the Slot 5 may be used as a guide in stitching a French seam. Fig. 25

25 23 (Fig. 26). in appropriate slot. Draw through slot and under binder one size between widths, inserting each in correct size slot FOLDED BINDING. Cut a point on folded binding, insert TWO-TONE BINDING. Two bindings can be sewn on The open mouth of binder scroll is used for unfolded bias Adjust by sliding binder slot to right or left. Guide fabric into binder so that edge touches binding. folded bias binding. with a strong pin. Test stitching to be sure it is on very edge. of the binder are for corresponding widths of commercial THE BINDER This attachment folds bias binding, applies it to the edge of material in one stitching. Slots No. 1 to No. 5 on the scroll strips cut 1516 inch wide. fabric edge in one stitching. When two are used. always skip \

26 24 along the adjustable slide. Cut with short. even strokes. of strip wanted. Insert material in the gauge. and guide edge This gauge is used for cutting even strips of bias or straight material. Slip onto point of scissors. Slide gauge to width THE CUTTING GAUGE under binder. Fig. 27 insert binding as before and place material to be trimmed TRIMMING. For several rows of binding as top trimming. of binder. of scro l. Test stitching to be sure it is on edge. Adjust. diagonally toward end, almost to fold. Slip fold into center bias binding, fold in half for a couple of inches. Clip binding Draw back until slash opens and binding encircles open mouth HAND-CUT BIAS BINDING (Fig. 27). Cut 6 inch

27 - is 25 Fig. 29 more convenient. closing. Adjust to sew from either right or left stl. whichever Stitching should be close to zipper to allow easy opening and needle hole. Guide metal of zipper along edge of foot (Fig. 29). Loosen thumb screw and slide foot so needle enters center of SEWING IN A ZIPPER To sew covered cord to material, reset adjustable foot so needle so needle is centered in needle hole. Ma cord. Loosen thumb screw and set foot CORDING. Fold bias strip of fabric over Loosen thumb screw to slide foot to either covered cording. and to sew in zippers. This attachment is used to make and insert THE ADJUSTABLE CORDING AND ZIPPER FOOT right or left of needle. chine haste cord in place (Fig. 28). stitches closer to cord, and on edge of base fabric. Fig. 28 I A_

28 26 rows of top stitching along edges of fabric. Use the seam gauge as a guide for straight seams and even Fig. 31 Attach ruffler by placing foot C under thumb screw on presser bar and fork A. Slotted lever to space fullness by stitches. THE RUFFLER B. Dial and pointer to regulate depth of pleat. arm D astride needle clamp screw (Fig. 31). Fig. 30 needle plate or in bed of machine (Fig. 30). Set for seam width by moving guide along slot. THE SEAM GAUGE Fasten gauge with accompanying screw in threaded hole in

29 Loosen plastic thumb screw on dial B. set pointer at low numbers toward sign. When properly adjusted for six stitch pleating. Fig. 31 rufflr will vork satisfactorily at other settings. Pleat a narrow piece of fabric. If pleating is uneven or not sewn Tighten screw and again test pleating. If it is still poor. move screw in spots. loosen screw at front of ruffler. Move it toward ± sign. Fi 33 justing. Loosen plastic screw on dial and set pointer B on 8. Set for fine gathers. at higher numbers for deeper gathers. Tighten Fig. 32 To gather at every stitch. set pin in No. 1 opening on lever A. slot used for guiding fabric through ruffler. (Figs ). Because of slight differences in machines. the ruffler may need ad Width of seam allowance or heading on ruffle is determined by the thumb screw after adjusting pointer. Fullness of ruffling is also increased by shortening the machine stitch. lever A in No. 6 slot. Adjust machine to 2 or 3 stitch length. RUFFLING. Place material to he ruffled between blue blades.

30 4 28 Fig. 37 C C GROUP PLEATING (Fig. 37). Set ruffler for six-stitch or pin in No. 12 opening to pleat at every twelfth stitch. Follow above instructions. TWELVE.STITCH PLEATING (Fig. 36). At lever A set creased by lengthening machine stitch. twelve-stitch pleating, as above. Make first group of pleats. Fig. 35 Fig. 36 C pointer down to deepen pleat. Space between pleats is in No. 6 opening to pleat at every sixth stitch. At dial B slide SIX-STITCH PLEATING (Fig. 35). At lever A set pin in in right hand. guide slot. Hold ruffling fabric in left hand and lower fabric ation. place fabric under the ruffler and through the last seam To make a ruffle or pleating and sew it to fabric in one oper group of pleats to begin. Reset pin at lever A to previous star. Stitch without pleating to point where von want next pleating position. - Stop sewing. Atlev er A set pin in opening marked with a

31 Draw it toward you from the back of the machine. When 29 Fig. 38 pattern of squares or diamonds. material and stitch in the opposite direction to form a the Attachment Foot. Then loosen the thumb screw slightly, so that you can slip the forked holder between the thumb screw and foot. stitching the desired distance apart. forth in the holder as well as up and down. This allows you to place the rows of tance from the first. Continue in this manner until the cloth is covered with rows of stitching. Then turn the stitching so that the second row will be the desired dis. wadding with cheesecloth. line. Then place the guiding prong on the first row of As a guide for the first row of stitching. draw a line on stitch. A long stitch will create the prettiest effect. it is in place. turn the thumb screw to fasten it securely. bar which runs through a forked holder. The prong may be shifted back and the wrong side of prepared material. Stitch along this The Quilter is actually a guide. consisting of a curved prong attached to a long Before attaching the Quilter, remove the regular presser foot and replace it with Before beginning to sew, adjust the length of the machine Cover wrong side of fabric to be quilted with two thick. nesses of outing flannel or layers of wadding. Cover THE QUILTER

32 Fig k you until the take-up lever is at its lowest point. Avoid over-oiling------onlv a drop is needed at each point. sewing you do. Before oiling the upper part of the sewing unit at points indicated by arrows in Fiji. -to. turn hand wheel toward Your machine should be oiled occasionally to keep it operating smoothly how often depends on the amount of flow to Oil Your Machine CARE AND MAINTENANCE OF YOUR MACHINE For even spacing of shirring use the quilter guide. needle to properly gather succeeding rows. thread. Fullness from previous rows should be eased out ahead of the which can be altered after stitching by pulling on the bobbin fullness. The longer the stitch. the greater the fullness. terial (Fig. 39). The length of stitch governs the amount of Use the shirring foot for gathers on single thicknesses of ma SHIRRING FOOT

33 Fi Oil at spots indicated in Fig. 42. screws located at the top and bottom if t]li tin- plate. rarely require oiling, remove plate by takina out the To oil moving parts inside the fae plate. whi h only thumb screw out. Apply a drpp of oil at each point mi] back on its hinges and remove bed over plate liv takinc cated in Fig. 41. Replace bed cover. Fig. 42 Fig. 40 To oil parts under the bed of the mauhine. tip the unit N

34 32 toward front of machine. 2. Slide cover plate to left, Remove needle plate (11. Fig. 1) by 3. Lift out bobbin. 4. Tip up bobbin carrier stop A. Fig. 44. by pushing it upward correct this condition, clean as follows: taking out screws. position. 1. Turn hand wheel uutil needle and take.up lever are in highest The stitch forming mechanism may become clogged with loose threads or lint occasionally, causing the machine to operate inefficiently. To Cleaning and Oiling Hook Assembly Fig Lubricate only when machine seems to sew more s. than usual. Use gear lubricant on gears indicated by white arrows in Figs. 41 and Fiu. 45 Fig. 44 C (I a a a CI I C

35 5. Lift out bobbin carrier. B. and clean it. making certain slot C. Fig. 45. is completely free of lint. Rub a small drop of oil into slot. 6. Clean hook D. Fig. 36. thoroughly with a soft brush.also brush lint away from feed. Place a drop of oil on hook D. When cleaning is completed. replace assembly as follows, being sure take-up lever is in highest position: 1. Hold bobbin carrier with finger depression E. Fig. 45. up. Fig Slide notch F on carrier over pin G inside hook. Fig. 47. with the flange of the carrier resting on the surface of hook D. 3. Press bobbin carrier stop. A. Fig. 44. back down into position. 3. Replace needle plate. 5. Drop bobbin in place and thread according to previous instructions (Page 9). 6. Slide cover plate into position. How to Replace Light Bulb Grasp light bulb button (24. Fig. 1) and pull light bracket downward. screw bulb and replace with bulb of same size. which is available from your sewing machine dealer. Un Li Fig

36 wheel must first be loosened and moved out. To do this, follow these instructions: 34 the clutch nut. Give the washer a half turn and replace the nut. After doing this. turn the clutch toward you to disengage the sewing mechanism. 8. Replace nut and tighten screw securely. 2. Before moving the hand wheel, note the position of the washer, C. Fig If washer C has fallen off, replace so that the lips D are pointing toward the clutch nut. 6. Push hand wheel back against the machine. 3. Pull hand wheel away from machine carefully. Fig. 50. Pull it just far 4. Slide old belt over hand wheel and pulley on the end of motor. 5. Slide new belt into grooved section and over motor pulley. belt. enough to make the grooved section which holds the belt accessible. the edge. Fig. 48. Turn nut counter-clockwise until it can be lifted off. which fits under the clutch nut. It may fall out when you are changing the 1. Remove clutch nut A in center of wheel by taking out the small screw B near If it should ever become necessary to replace the belt on your machine, the hand If the needle still moves up and down as you turn the hand wheel, again remove How to Change the Belt C, 9 4

37 Be sure presser foot is firmly attached to bar. Do not tug or pull on the fabric while sewing as this will bend and eventually break the needle. Needle Breaks Be sure lower tension is not too tight. Check correct method of threading bobbin carrier. I,ower Thread Breaks Do not have upper tension too tight. Use correct needle size for thread. Check on correct way to thread machine. Be sure needle is inserted properly. Upper Thread Breaks occur they can be remedied with minor adjustments. Although your sewing machine is designed for maximum efficiency, should any of the following difficulties CHECK UP FOR SMOOTH SEWING 33

38 36 oil. holes, run rapidly for a while, and wipe dry. Then lubricate again wath fine sewing machine If condition continues, it may be that the machine is gummy with oil. Apply kerosene to oil Clean thread, dust and lint from hook, bobbin carrier and feed. Machine Binds Make sure tensions are properly balanced and that machine is threaded correctly. Stitches Loop Be sure pressure on foot is sufficient when sewing heavy fabrics. Use correct needle size for thread. Insert needle correctly. Do not use a blunt or bent needle. Skipped Stitches ci. 1

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