Gathering 21. Making buttonholes Sewing on buttons 18. Quilting guide 17. Narrow hemmer 16. How to use attachments 16

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1 ;; I. k4 ii I NSTRUCTION MANUAL _

2 CONTENTS 4ame of each part. Page Page Principal features 2 Drop-feed adjustment 14 How to use selective knob (dial) 4 How to embroid r with a hoop 16 To regulate the stitch length 5 How to use attachments 16 Manual operation of zig zag sewing 6 Narrow hemmer 16 Automatic operation of zig zag sewing 7 To wind the bobbin 8 Quilting guide 17 Sewing on buttons 18 How to remove and replace bobbin case 9 Making buttonholes To thread the bobbin case 9 Gathering 21 How to remove the shuttle 10 Applique 22 How to insert the needle 10 Sewing knitwear 22 Threading the machine 11 Preparing to sew 12 Lighting equipment 23 Needle-thread-fabric-stitching guide 23 Removing the work 12 Check up for smooth sewing 24 How to adjust tensions 13 Oiling and cleaning 25 How to use the automatic darner

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- Thread Name of Each ParI Arm spool pin Thread guide (upper) Thread tension Thread take up spring Thread guide (under) Thread guide (mediate) Needle Clamp Screw Needle Presser foot Presser foot

4 - Thread Name of Each ParI Arm spool pin Thread guide (upper) Thread tension Thread take up spring Thread guide (under) Thread guide (mediate) Needle Clamp Screw Needle Presser foot Presser foot clamp screw Presser bar Needle bar thread guide Automatic bobbin winder Balance wheel Bobbin winder tension disc Drop-feed regulator (push button) Stitch length regulating knob Push-button for reverse stitch Zig Zag stitch length indicator Zig Zag stitch regulating knob Zig Zag stitch indicator Cover plate (hinge type) Needle plate Shuttle race Lamp Lamp swich Face plate take up lever Patch-o-matic darner Thread cutter Needle bar thread guide Selective knob Key-button for Zig Zag disc chamber Restrictor knob (1)

Stitch length regulation. The length of the stitch is controlled by a dial located on the right of the arm. Turn it right is shorten the stitch and left to lengthen.

5 Ia Prindpal Feai:ures Restrictor knob Zig Zag Stitch reglating knob. Stitch l- regulatin ii 2. Rotating the Restrictor knob (Fig. 3) in the dire ction of the arrow on knob, makes it possible to lock into position anyzig zag width from point 0 to 4 on the dial, and is especially desirable in making buttonholes. 1. Stitch length regulation. The length of the stitch is controlled by a dial located on the right of the arm. Turn it right is shorten the stitch and left to lengthen. The correct stitch length is shown by numbers in the plastic window just above the dial. Near zero is the shortest stitch, 5 the long est. To sew in reverse, just push the button marked R in the center of the dial. When the button is released the machine will automatically sew forward again (Fig. 2). 3. Decorator discs for automatic sewing. Select one of 20 discs and insert in the disc chamber to do embroidery designs automatically(fig. 4.). Fig. 4 (2)

6 5. Patch.o-matic darner: Provides instantaneous pressure release on presser-foot to permit easy and quick darning and mending. Fig. 7 Fig. 6 Fig. 5 Lighting equipment Position of sewing light, moun ted in the face plate, directs a beam of soft light where it is needed most, right on the material being sewn. 6. Selective knob: (Fig.7) Provides method for instantly switching from automatic to straight sti tch sewing without necessity of removing decorator disc. (3)

7 I 1 1k j How o Use Selecfive Knob (Dial) Fig. 8 Turn hand wheel until needle is out of material. The selective knob should not be moved at any time with the needle in the material, which would result in bent or broken needles. Having inserted a designer disc in the machine, turn selective knob so that the red dot is next to A. Your machine will now sew the design of the disc, automatically. By returning the selective knob so that the red dot is now at M the machine will now do regular straight stitching, without the necessity of removing the disc first. When sewing, the red dot should always be.at either the A or M point, never in between. (4)

ReguIaie the SIch Length Fig. 9 The stitch length is regulated simply by turning the knob shown in Fig. 9. To lengthen the stitch turn knob to left, to shorten, return to right.

8 ReguIaie the SIch Length Fig. 9 The stitch length is regulated simply by turning the knob shown in Fig. 9. To lengthen the stitch turn knob to left, to shorten, return to right. Refer to chart below for approximate number of stitches per inch obtained at various settings. 1. To sew forward. Turn knob until marker on stitch indicator points to figure corresponding to the number of stitches per inch required for the work you are doing. 2. To sew backward. Push the button in the center of the stitch length knob and the machine will,sew the same length stitch in reverse. When the button is released the machine automatically returns to forward stitching. This backtack ing locks the seams and eliminates tying of threads. Stitch Length Chart Figures in the dial Numbers of stitches per inch (no feeding) (5) ;r ii.

j IL. ry j Manual Operalion 0c Zig Zag Sewing B A 11 1) The zig zag regulating knob (A Fig. 10) is used to vary the stitch width, when you are doing embroidery manually.

9 j IL. ry j Manual Operalion 0c Zig Zag Sewing B A 11 1) The zig zag regulating knob (A Fig. 10) is used to vary the stitch width, when you are doing embroidery manually. Turning this knob back and forth, rhythmically, while the machine is running, will cause the needle to swing freely from wide to narrow zig zag widths. 2 The restrictor knob (B Fig. 10) is used to restrict the width of zig zag stitching. With needle out of material,turn the re strictor knob in the direction of the arrow. Note that the pointer in the dial indicates the zig zag width. Turning the knob back again, will bring the pointer in dial back to 0. Fig. 10 (6)

ui:omaiic Operation oc Zig Zag Sewing To Insert Decorator Disc 1. Turn restrictor knob (B Fig. 11) till pointer on dial is at NOR. Fig. 11 2. Press push button (Fig.

10 ui:omaiic Operation oc Zig Zag Sewing To Insert Decorator Disc 1. Turn restrictor knob (B Fig. 11) till pointer on dial is at NOR. Fig Press push button (Fig. 13) and covèr of disc chamber will pop open. PUSH Fig. 12 Fig. 3. Turn zig zag knob (A Fig. 11) so that pointer of dial is at 4k, and while holding it at this position, insert a disc as in figure 13. Make sure that the disc is inserted properly, by placing disc on spindle, and turning the disc by hand until the notch on the underside of disc fits over the small pin on spindle base. When this is done, you will find that it is not possible to further rotate the disc by hand. 4. Permit knob A to return. 5. Close the chamber cover. 6. Set selective knob (Fig. 8) with the red dot at NA. 7. Proceed to sew, with complete automaticity. To remove disc from chamber, first be sure that needle is out of material, turn zig zag knob (A Fig. 11), till pointer in dial is at 4g. Hold in this position and simply lift disc straight up and out to remove. (7)

Re wi ha4 Let bbii rot To Wind the Bobbin Good * Fig.15 Turn the clutch nut in the center of the hand wheel toward you to disen gage the sewing mechanism.

11 Re wi ha4 Let bbii rot To Wind the Bobbin Good * Fig.15 Turn the clutch nut in the center of the hand wheel toward you to disen gage the sewing mechanism. Place a spool of thread on the spool pin, and slip the thread through the upper arm thread guide and across to the tension disc as shown in Fig. 14. Insert thread through a hole on edge Fig. 14 of bobbin and place bobbin on spindle of winder. Be sure that the notch in the bobbin fits over the small pin on the spindle. Press down on lever mar ked pushn and set machine in motion. When the bobbin is fully wound, the action of the winder stops automati cally. Remove from spindle and cut (8) off loose thread end. If the bobbin winds unevenly (see Fig. 15), adjust the bobbin winding tension disc to the right or left by loosening the screw holding it to the bed of the machine. Then tighten. Before starting to sew again, tighten clutch nut by turning it away from you.

. w to Remove and Replace Bobbin Case Raise the needle bar to its highest position and lift up the hinged cover plate. Grasp the bobbin case by the latch and pull out (see Fig. 16).

12 . w to Remove and Replace Bobbin Case Raise the needle bar to its highest position and lift up the hinged cover plate. Grasp the bobbin case by the latch and pull out (see Fig. 16). When the latch is closed, the bobbin falls out of the case readily. To replace, hold case by latch and place it on spindle in center of shuttle race. Press fir. mly before closing latch, making certain that the tongue of the case fits into notch on the upper edge of the race cover. Fig. A Fig. 16 Thread the Bobbin Case r to Figs 17, 18, 19 and 20 to familiarize yourself the procedure. Hold the bobbin case in your left I with tongue pointing up. about two inches of thread hang free from the bo. and insert bobbin into case, so that thread will be ting counter-clockwise. (9) Guide the thread end through the slot on the side of the case and under the tension spring until it enters the small notch on the edge of the spring.

13 How I:o Remove the ShuIUe. How 1o lnserl the Needle Turn hand wheel toward you to raise needle bar to its highest point. Loosen needle clanp screw and insert needle with its flat side to the right or toward the screw. Push needle up as far as it will go, and tighten screw securely. Always use the type of needle recommended by the supplier of your machine. Test on a flat surface to be sure it is not bent (Fig. 22). When thread becomes tangled in the hook and shuttle race it is necessary to take the under thread mechanism apart and clean it. Raise the needle bar to its highest position and tilt the head back. Remove the bobbin case. Push the screws on either side of the race cover to the outside and the cover can be removed easily. (See Fig. 21), Lift the hook out. Brush away all thread and lint from the race, hook and race cover. Then, holding hook by the center pin, place it in rase so that it fits firmly against driver. Fit cover over pins on each side of the race, with the notch at the top. Pull latch screws back over side open- ings of the Cover. (10) Fig. 22

- Threading the Machine 2 28 6-1 Fig. 23 Turn the hand balance wheel (14) toward you until the thread take up lever (28) is raised to its highest position.

14 - Threading the Machine Fig. 23 Turn the hand balance wheel (14) toward you until the thread take up lever (28) is raised to its highest position. Place a spool of the, thread on the spool pin (1) on the top of the Machine. (Fig. 23) Draw thread through the first 14 thread guide pin (2) then downward to thread tension regulator (3) and under the same lead the thread from the right to the left between the two tension discs. Then pull upward passing over the thread take-up spring (4) from right to left. Lead thread downward again around underside of thread guide (5) and upward through thread guide. Now draw thread from right to left through guide (6) and needle clamp screw (7) right above needle. Finally thread needle (8) from left to right through its eye. ( 11)

Removing the Work Preparing 4o Sew Hold the end of the upper thread loosely and revolve hand wheel toward you slowly until ioop of bobbin thread (Fig. 24) is drawn up through the needle hoip.

15 Removing the Work Preparing 4o Sew Hold the end of the upper thread loosely and revolve hand wheel toward you slowly until ioop of bobbin thread (Fig. 24) is drawn up through the needle hoip. Draw both threads to the right (Fig. 25 and under presser foot toward back of machine. Fig. 24 Fig25 Stop machine with take-up at its highest point. Raise presser foot. Pull fabric toward back of machine, keeping thread in presser foot slot to avoid bending the needle. Hold both threads taut and cut on thread cutter, leaving machine thread ends about four inches long. Never operate the machine when it is threaded unless there is material under the presser foot. (12)

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Fig. 30 How to Adjust Tensions Always adjust the upper tension with the presser foot down, as the tension is automatically released when it is raised.

20 Fig. 30 How to Adjust Tensions Always adjust the upper tension with the presser foot down, as the tension is automatically released when it is raised. To increase the the tension onupper thread, turn dial (Fig. 29) to the right, or clockwise. To decrease, turn to the left. The higher the number on the dial the tighter the tension. Before adjusting lower tension be sure that the machine is threaded properly. When necessary to change the bobbin te nsion, turn small screw (Fig. 30) on side of bobbin case clock wise to tighten, counter-clockwise to loosen. When the upper and under tensioni are properly balanced, a perfect stitch will be formed with both threads interlocking in fabric (Fig. 26). When the upper tension is too tight, the lower thread is pulled up over the upper thread which is lying flat on the fabric (Fig. 27). When the under tension is too tight, the upper thread fonns loops over the lower thread lying flat on the fabric (Fig 28). Fig. Fig. Fig Perfect chain stitch Tension too tight with upper thread Tension too light with under thread ( 13)

21 -j Drop Feed Adjustment The height of the feed dogs can be adjusted to suit the fabric or type of work being done. Push the button on the left (Fig. 32) to S position to sew on thin materials, or all the way down to E position for darning or embroi dering with a hoop. Push button on the right to return feed to N or normal. Fig. 31 Consult the following chart to determine the position of the drop feed buttons and darner for various types of sewing. How to Use the Automatic Darner Type of Sewing Drop Feed Darner Position Sewing thin materisl S (Silk) Partially down Darning, embroidery with hoop E ( Embroidery) All the way up Sewing thick material N (Nomal) Completely down To release the pressure from the presser foot so that the material can be moved freely for darning and mending, push the release lever (B Fig. 31) and darner will pop up. To return pressure to normal, push A all the way down. For a lesser pressure, when sewing thin mate rials, push darner part way down. Test for best pressure on scrap of fabric. I I I:; Fig. 32 (14)

22 Cl p U) 0 N 0r4 N p U) C 0-S -S U) t 0C 0- C rjq rt 0 :3- l) C Ct U) o.q -J C -3 Nj 0- C P 0 C P C Ci PCt 0 CU) 0

23 How 4o Embroider with, a Hoop It is easy to follow a stamped design or to work free hand when embroidering or monogramming. (See Figs. 33 and 34.) Release the pressure from the foot by turning the burled nut on the automatic darner in the direction of the arrow, or clock wise. Push the drop feed button down so that E appears between the two buttons. Stretch the fabric in an embroidery hoop, and place under the needle after removing the presser foot. Set the stitch width at the size you prefer and lower the presser bar lifter. Then operate the machine at a rather high speed while moving the hoop slowly with both hands. Work carefully and be sure to keep fingers out of the path of the needle $78 Fig. 34 How I:o Use Ai*achmenl:s Fig. 33 Fig Narrow hemmer. With the needle in its highest position replace regular presser foot with narrow hemmer (Fig. 35). For a plain narrow hem, make a 1/8 inch double fold for about two inches along edge of fabric. Hold each end of the twoinch fold, slip underneath hemmer. Bring fold up into the scroll of hemmer, draw forward to end and fasten with point of needle. Lower presser bar lifter. Gently pull ends of thread as you start stitching. Guide material slightly to right, and it will automatically take a double turn through scroll. (16)

24 Lace Trimmed Hem To attach lace to hem, insert lace in the slot next to needle. Sew hem as above, guiding lace under needle and hem into scroll. Lace Edge with Invisible Stitching Hold lace 1 8 inch from raw edge on right side of fabric. Insert both in scroll as for plain narrow hem. Let hem roll over and sew in lace. Press lace out flat along edge with hem turned up. For a little fullness in lace, feed it freely under scroll. French Seam With right sides together, place top piece of material 1:8 inch inside edge of lower piece. Insert in hemmer scroll, allowing hem to roll over and sew in top fabric, making French seam. Flat Felled Seam Open out French seam and insert rolled edge in scroll of hemmer. Edgestitch to lay seam flat. 2. Quilting Guide. This guide for making parallel rows of stitching is attached by placing the pronged holder between the presser foot and the presser foot clamp screw (Fig. 36). Adjust the curved bar to press lightly on the fabric. By letting the guide ride on the first stitching line, successive rows will be an equal distance apart. When the bar is attached so that the curved part is to the right of the needle, it may also serve as a seam width guide. Fig. 36 (17)

3. Sewing on Buttons. Exchange the regular presser foot for the one provided to sew on buttons. See Fig 37.) Drop the feed to E position. Place button and fabric under presser foot.

25 3. Sewing on Buttons. Exchange the regular presser foot for the one provided to sew on buttons. See Fig 37.) Drop the feed to E position. Place button and fabric under presser foot. Determine the width of the stitch needed to enter each hole of the button by turning the hand wheel slowly toward you as you adjust the zigzag regulating knob. Then lock at that width. Take six or seven stitches to fasten the button securely. Then turn the knob to 0 and take two or three more stitches in one hole to lock the threads. Repear the procedure when sewing on four-hole buttons. Snaps and hooks may be stitched on in the same manner. Fig. 37 ( 18)

4. Making Buttonholes. Replace the regular presser foot with the buttonhole foot which is equipped with a measure ment gauge (Fig 38)- Set the stitch lenght near 0 for a very short stitch.

26 4. Making Buttonholes. Replace the regular presser foot with the buttonhole foot which is equipped with a measure ment gauge (Fig 38)- Set the stitch lenght near 0 for a very short stitch. The width of the stitch should be set at 2 or slightly under for a daintier buttonhole. If a heavier button hole is required, cord may be strung through the hole in the foot. Mark the desired length of buttonhole on the fabric or set the gauge so that the distance between the curved marker and the needle is equal to that of the buttonhole. Sew the first side of the buttonhole, stopping the machine with needle in the material at right side of stitching. Lift the jresser foot, and using the needle as a pivot, turn the fabric end for end or 80 degrees (see Fig 39). Before lowering the presser foot make sure that the first row of stitchiiig is lined up straight. Lower presser foot and turn wheel by hand just enough to raise needle out of fabric. Proceed to stitch the second side of the buttonhole. When you have reached the end of the first row of stitching, stop the machine again with the needle out of the fabric. Fig. 38 Drop the feed to E position and turn zigzag knob to No. 4 width. Take about five or six stitches to make a bar tack. Stop the machine with the needle out of the fabric, but leave the presser foot down. Raise the feed to N and return stitch width to 2 or original setting. (19)

27 Leave the presser foot down, drop the feed to Er and take five or six stitches to close the buttonhole. Stop the machine with the needle out of the fabric, but do not raise the foot. Return stitch width to 0 and take two or three stitches, which will fasten the bar threads and prevent ravelling. Cut the buttonhole opening with the seam ripper, being careful not to cut the stitching. If you plan to make buttonholes on sheer or soft material, place tarlatan or paper, which can be torn away after stitching, under the fabric. And it is always wise to make several buttonholes on scraps of fabric before working on the garment. F 18 i F fle Fig. 39 (20)

28 Simple gathering stitches should be rather long and the upper thread tension sufficiently light to enable the lower thread to be pulled. Gathering Sew as usual, but preferably stitch two rows. Fig. 40 Use the presser foot as guide. When both rows have been stit ched, pull the lower thread so as to form gathers in the fabric. (Fig. 40). Gathering with elastic thread: By using latex thread you can make elastic gathers. Wind the elastic thread by hand on the bobbin, and use ordinary thread for the upper thread. The kind of gathering is especially suitable for under wear, children s clothes, beach wear, etc. (Fig 41). Fig. 41 ( 21)

29 Applique Many beautiful and decorative effects are obtained with this easy to do operation. Cut out the applique design and simply zig zag stitch it around the outer, on to the material to which the design is to be appliqued. Fig. 42 Sewing Knitwear Use a small stitch (approximately 1) and zig zag width at 5. I Fig. 43 (22)

30 Lighting Equipmenl To replace light bulb, open face plate, removing old bulb as in Fig. 44. Fabric Extremely heavy- tarpaulin, sacking canvas, duck, etc Heavy-upholstery fabric, ticking, NeedIe-Thread-Fabric-SIching Guide denim, leatherette, etc Medium heavy- drapery fabric, velveteen, suiting, felt, terry, etc Medium-broadcloth, percale, gingham, linen, chintz, taffeta, sheer wool, shantung, etc Sheer-voile, lawn, dimity, crepe, handkerchief linen, plastic film, etc Very sheer-chiffon, batiste, lace, organdy, ninon, net, marquisette, etc Machine Needle Stitches No 4 per Inch Cotton Thread 6 10 Silk Mercerized or Thread Nylon to to Heavy Duty to to to to to to to to Heavy Duty Heavy Duty 50 A A (Platic film) to to 50 A Fig. 44 ( 23)

31 Clean thead, dust and lint from hook,shuttle and race. If condition continues, it may be that the machine Check Up for Smooth Sewing Although your sewing machine is designed for maximum efficiency, should any of the following difficulties occur they can be remedied with minor adjustments. Upper Thread Breaks. Be sure needle is inserted properly. Check on correct way to thread machine. Use correct needle size for thread. Do not have upper tension too tight. Lower Thread Breaks Check correct method of threading bobbin case. Needle Breaks Be sure lower tension is not too tight. SkippecFStitches Do not tug or pull on the fabric while sewing as this will bend and eventually break the needle. Do not use a blunt or bent needle. Insert needle correctly. Use correct needle size for thread. Stitches Loop Be sure pressure on foot is sufficient when sewing heavy fabrics. Machine Binds Make sure tensions are properly balanced and that machine is threaded correctly. is gummy with oil. Apply kerosene to oil holes, run rapidly for a while, and wipe dry. Then lubricate again with fine sewing machine oil. (24)

Oilng and Cleaning Before starting until take-up is indicated by to oil the upper at arrows part of the machine. turn hand wheel its lowest point. Apply a drop of oil to points in Figs 45, 46 and 47.

32 Oilng and Cleaning Before starting until take-up is indicated by to oil the upper at arrows part of the machine. turn hand wheel its lowest point. Apply a drop of oil to points in Figs 45, 46 and 47. To reach the Fig. 45 areas requiring of the machine (Fig. 46) its hinges. tilt oil on the underside the head back on How frequently the machine is used determines the oiling requirements. Moderate usc calls for only an occasional oiling. After applying the oil, run the chine at high speed so by the oil. that ll parts will be ma penetrated Fig. 47 (25 )

WHITE SEWING MACHINE CORPORATION WHITE SEWING MACHINE PRODUCTS LTD. Toronto 16, Ontario, Canada

V -a a; S a a a. a,.. I.. I S. Co Toronto 16, Ontario, Canada CLEVELAND 11, OHIO WHITE SEWING MACHINE PRODUCTS LTD. WHITE SEWING MACHINE CORPORATION tension adjustments, maintenance, or any of the operations