Service & Technik Informationen for the sewing industry. Garment dyeing. Sewing thread and sewing recommendations

Transcription

1 Service & Technik Informationen for the sewing industry Garment dyeing Sewing thread and sewing recommendations

2 Garment dyeing Sewing thread and sewing recommendations Some call it garment dyeing, others speak of PPT (Pronto per Tinta), others PAT (Pret a Teindre) or RFD (Ready for Dyeing) but they are all talking about the same thing: They speak of garments that are sewn "raw" and dyed after sewing. They are usually made of natural fibres, for the most part cotton, and for specific applications polyamide as well. Garment dyeing is currently very fashionable; not very many collections do without it, especially for trousers. Its unmistakable look and its matchless character are much valued. At the same time, garment dyeing allows high level of flexibility regarding colours, with great advantages in logistics, materials management, and supply. Garment dyed trousers trendy season after season Sewing threads for garment dyeing With regard to the sewing thread, special considerations are necessary to keep the quality of the seam at the usual standard. The question of which will be the right thread for garment dyeing cannot be easily answered. There are different options each with its own advantages and disadvantages. These should be known in detail to be able to choose the right sewing thread concept for a specific application. The detailed information contained in this AMANN S+T brochure will make this decision much easier. The standard sewing thread concept for a normal production utilising polyester sewing threads does not make much sense for garment dyeing unless you are prepared to determine the colour of the sewing thread way in advance. Then what is done is you sew natural white material to be dyed in red later with a red sewing thread, for example. Then, the seams and the sewing features will be of the usual quality, but the flexibility as regards colour, and thus the actual advantage of garment dyeing is lost. For some producers with an awareness for quality, this can be the right way to go especially if the batches to dye are small and produced sporadically, as is the fashion, and therefore it is really not worth looking for better alternatives. For all other producers, however, this solution is not very reasonable. So, they will be looking for alternatives: Sewing threads with good dyeing properties in connection to the material. An obvious solution here is the cotton thread range. But Lyocell and polyamide sewing threads are an option too. AMANN maintains all three product ranges and has developed other solutions in addition to standard cotton threads, for the benefit of improved seam quality. Many things are happening in this sector well-known standards and possible concepts are presented in the following. From a production point of view, garment dyeing is very challenging. The change in conventional work processes has consequences for sewing: materials and accessories that are used are changing and thus also reliable processing and quality indicators, therefore production parameters must adapt. Raw materials used for garment dyeing have usually received some finishing (for example: desizing, singeing, or sanforizing) to prepare them for the subsequent dyeing processes and to facilitate sewing. All the accessories like sewing threads, zippers, pocket linings, labels, rivets, etc. must be suitable for the special requirements of the subsequent dyeing process and finishing. Each accessory's suitability must be tested in detail. Will the label be readable after dyeing? Will the zipper tape take up the colour? Will the rivets survive dyeing without any unwanted colour changes?... These issues must be clarified in prior tests, because the dyeing and finishing conditions are often not actually known and they can only be evaluated in practical tests. 2 Service &Technik

3 Cotton threads The use of cotton threads has been the usual standard for garment dyeing so far. When cotton materials are sewn with cotton threads, then the later dyeing process is no problem. AMANN offers the following cotton threads for garment dyeing: MERCIFIL 12 CORNETA 24/2 MERCIFIL 4 MERCIFIL 5 MERCIFIL CORNETA MERCIFIL MERCIFIL 12 24/2 4 5 AMANN cotton threads for garment dyeing an overview of ticket numbers When choosing the suitable count, the ticket number system must be taken into consideration too. The count of a MERCIFIL 5 thread cannot be compared with the count of a SABA C 5 or RASANT 5 thread. With cotton threads, the ticket number is usually stated in NeB (Number English Baumwolle (= Cotton). The following table shows how the ticket numbers of AMANN cotton threads translate into the usual ticket numbers in the industry. It also states the appropriate colour numbers. Ticket number Count Count Ticket number Colour number AMANN (Nm) (dtex) commonly used cotton threads in the industry MERCIFIL 5 53/2 189 x 2 Between No. 8 and No. 1 3 or 6231 MERCIFIL 4 43/2 233 x 2 No. 8 3 or 6231 CORNETA 24/2 26/2 385 x 2 No or 6231 MERCIFIL 12 25/3 395 x 3 No Translation of cotton thread ticket numbers into ticket numbers common in the industry, plus AMANN colour numbers for garment dyeing. The cotton threads used for garment dyeing are usually not natural undyed cotton, because depending on their origin the actual colour can differ, sometimes they are yellowish-grey. At least with lighter colours, for example pastel tones, this can have an influence on the dyeing results. Therefore, the cotton threads are usually dyed in a standardised natural tone (colour number 3). To avoid any confusion natural coloured polyester threads should by no means be used mistakenly because the seams would remain natural white after dyeing we recommend using coloured cotton threads for this special purpose. AMANN has developed the special-purpose colour 6231 an uncommon light green. Practice has proven that this is a safe method to prevent confusions. This colour washes out at the beginning of the dyeing process so as to not impair the dyeing in the required colour tone for the article. CORNETA 24/2 in special colour 6231 that washes out never a cause for confusion. The use of cotton threads in garment dyeing seems so simple and natural that an associated drop off in seam quality is often underestimated or overlooked. In fact, important quality factors like tensile strength, abrasion resistance, and elongation of cotton threads area incomparable to industry-standard polyester corespun threads! The diagrams 1, 2 and 3 demonstrate at a glance the extreme differences in quality. Comparison in tensile strength Tensile strength (cn) CORNETA 24/2 SABA C 35 MERCIFIL 4 SABA C 8 Diagram 1 Comparison of linear tensile strength: Cotton thread MERCIFIL or CORNETA / PEScorespun thread SABA C (Test in accordance with DIN EN ISO 262) This noticeably lower tensile strength has a direct effect on the seam breaking strength, which is reduced: this is a problem for all seams that are exposed to greater stress, such as the back seams on trousers. In some cases, seam breaking strength can be reduced to a level where a seam will even break by manual force. 3

4 Comparison in abrasion resistance Abrasion resistance (Touren) CORNETA 24/2 SABA C 35 Diagram 2 Comparison in abrasion resistance: Cotton thread CORNETA 24/2 PEScorespun thread SABA C 35 (Abrasion test with Martindale tester on dyed seams) Comparison in elasticity The significantly lower elasticity of cotton threads compared to polyester threads has a noticeable influence on their sewing characteristics and seam elasticity. In today's production environments sometimes fully automated with high sewing speeds the use of cotton threads is difficult. Concretely, this means a large number of thread breaks if the machines have not been set correctly. Absolutely critical is the use of cotton threads on multidirectional automated machines, for example to sew on back pockets on trousers, or on very old sewing machines that work with extremely high thread tensions. So, if the problem of sewing cotton threads has been solved, the next problem is low elasticity. Dyed parts of garments sewn with cotton threads show an extremely low seam elasticity at all seams which is a problem, when the material itself is elastic. The results are broken seams under slight stress when worn Special attention should be paid to this abrasion resistance comparison. A low cotton thread abrasion resistance is the biggest problem regarding seams in the garment dyeing industry. First the mechanical stress during the sewing process and then during the dyeing and finishing processes and lastly the normal wear and tear on the garment this is really hard on cotton threads. Worn out and open seams, especially at heavily exposed areas, is the result. Elongation at break (%) MERCIFIL 4 SABA C 8 Diagram 3 Comparison of elongation at break: Cotton thread MERCIFIL 4 / PES corespun thread SABA C 8 (Test in accordance with DIN EN ISO 262) Frequent quality problem areas in garment dyeing: Fraying seams at heavily exposed areas such as ornamental seams on back pockets or bobbin thread loops at trouser waist bands. The quality-relevant differences are increased by dyeing and finishing process stress. While polyester sewing threads survive the dyeing process almost unharmed, cotton threads are additionally damaged by each individual process. Depending on the dyeing conditions, the drop off in quality is sometimes significant. It is not surprising that dyed garment parts often show damaged or destroyed seams, even when brand new. A large portion of second quality goods, many complaints, and the resulting loss of reputation are a logical consequence. To keep the difference in quality as low as possible, coarser than usual threads should be chosen when determining the sewing thread concept. The size concept must be worked out individually, depending on the product group, the seam concept (seam type and stitch type), and the stress, to which the thread is exposed during the dyeing and finishing processes. The following table offers some orientation here. 4 Service &Technik

5 Product group Sewing thread concept Closing seams Topstitching Edge-finishing seams** Trousers, skirts, MERCIFIL 4* Lock stitch: MERCIFIL 4 or 5 jackets (stitch type 31) for finer materials MERCIFIL 12 CORNETA 24/2 (Needle thread) MERCIFIL 4 (Bobbin thread) Shirts, blouses, MERCIFIL 4 or 5 MERCIFIL 4 or 5 MERCIFIL 5 dresses for finer materials T-Shirts MERCIFIL 5 MERCIFIL 5 MERCIFIL 5 * For closing seams exposed to greater stress, we urgently (!) recommend an additional topstitching seam to ensure a sufficient cross-resistance of the seam. ** Chose the thread with the best decorative effect. Size recommendations for garment dyeing, for sewing with cotton threads One option for this sewing thread concept worth considering is the use of cotton-polyester corespun threads for all closing and joining seams that are not visible. The use of RASANT (in the colour 3) would be extremely beneficial for seam quality. Tensile strength, abrasion resistance, and elongation of closing and holding seams would be of the same high quality. However, the dyeing results would be rather imperfect: Lyocell sewing threads An alternative for garment dyeing processes, which has been under discussion for years, is the use of Lyocell sewing threads. This raw material is similar to cotton, and therefore a good alternative. Lyocell is a cellulose chemically developed fibre and thus has the same beneficial dyeing properties as cotton. A possible size concept with multifilament threads made of Lyocell -- developed and tested at the AMANN R&D department is the following: LYOCELL 2 for ornamental seams and topstitching seams LYOCELL 4 for closing and joining seams For edge-finishing, we recommend staying with MERCIFIL 5. MERCIFIL 5 LYOCELL 4 LYOCELL 2 AMANN development project: Lyocell threads for garment dyeing; an overview of possible thread sizes. Seams tinged with grey due to the polyester core of cotton corespun threads Comparing the Lyocell concept with the standard cotton concept makes it easy to assess this solution: The polyester core of corespun thread does not take up dye; this is why the seam is tinged with grey if cotton corespun threads are used in garment dyeing processes. Every producer must decide if such a seam look is acceptable for inside seams in favour of optimal durability. Considering the quality problems when using pure cotton threads, this option should not be opted out too quickly. 5

6 Comparison in stability 7 Comparison in abrasion resistance 7 Seem breaking strength (dan) Seam abrasion resistance (Tours) LYOCELL 4 MERCIFIL 4 LYOCELL 2 CORNETA 24/2 Diagram 4 Comparison in seam breaking strength: LYOCELL 4 / cotton thread MERCIFIL 4 (Test with dyed material in accordance with DIN ) Diagram 5 Comparison in abrasion resistance: LYOCELL 2 / cotton thread CORNETA 24/2 (abrasion test with dyed seams using Martindale tester) Lyocell is known for its high stability when compared to other cellulose fibres such as viscose, modal, cupro, or the natural fibre cotton. In the industry, this feature is often the main argument in favour for the use of Lyocell for garment dyeing sewing threads. However, as shown in Diagram 4, this Lyocell fibre advantage is not reflected in the seam: The stability of Lyocell thread seams is at about the same low level as cotton thread seams. This is due to the Lyocell s comparably low wet strength. The strength of Lyocell and cotton wet is at about the same level. At the same time, Lyocell has a tendency to fibrillation when wet. This property is often used to advantage in the designing of fabrics, for example to produce a fuzzy effect. However, for sewing threads, this fibrillation has an adverse effect since it reduces the stability of a seam. Wetness and mechanical stress during the dyeing process are killers for seams made with Lyocell threads. Therefore, the abrasion resistance of cotton and Lyocell seams is at the same low level. Basically, seams damaged by worn out stitches at all exposed seams cannot be prevented. 6 Service &Technik

7 Comparison in elasticity Elongation at break (%) LYOCELL 4 MERCIFIL 4 Diagramm 6 Comparison in elongation at break: LYOCELL 4 / cotton thread MERCIFIL 4 (test in accordance with DIN EN ISO 262) The greater elongation of Lyocell sewing threads compared to cotton is beneficial under various aspects: It makes for an improved sewability, greater seam elasticity, and to some extent more even seams. With an elongation at approx. 12%, Lyocell sewing threads are almost comparable to standard polyester sewing threads. They can balance tension peaks during sewing much better, and this is why threads won't break as often. Seams of Lyocell feature a greater elongation reserve under stress in a lengthwise direction. Seam breaks occur less frequently. Moreover, practice has shown that the balanced stress-strain ratio and the thinner cross-section of Lyocell threads compared to cotton threads reduces the risk of pucker. This comparison qualifies the much-discussed advantages of Lyocell over cotton, and identifies the actual strong points of this concept, which are mainly based on its greater elongation characteristic. When compared to the polyester threads commonly used in the industry, the extreme differences in quality become very distinct. Stability and abrasion resistance are way below the normal level, so seam quality is just as low. And this is additionally influenced by the dyeing process. Unfavourable conditions here can lead to an extreme reduction of the already low seam quality. Polyamide sewing threads Opting for polyamide sewing threads in garment dyeing is less obvious but possible, for a good reason. The PA type 6 (not 6.6 as in common PA sewing threads like SRONGFIL/ONYX) allows for a feasible dyeing concept. This solution affords more effort in the dyeing process, but offers considerable benefits in seam quality. AMANN has developed the following multifilament threads and bulk yarns of polyamide 6 for use in garment dyeing: GARMENT DYEING 2 GARMENT DYEING 3 GARMENT DYEING 6 GARMENT DYEING 12 PA BAUSCHGARN SGD 12 PA BAUSCH- GARMENT GARMENT GARMENT GARMENT GARN DYEING 12 DYEING 6 DYEING 3 DYEING 2 SGD 12 AMANN polyamide threads for garment dyeing an overview of ticket numbers The wide range of ticket numbers and the additional bulk yarn quality allow use in a very broad range of applications: Aside from traditional garment dyeing, the threads GARMENT DYEING 12 and PA BAUSCHGARN SGD 12 can also be used for pre-dyed underwear and medical textiles. The following pictures show real-life examples: The size concept for the use of Lyocell sewing threads can be derived from the recommendations for cotton sewing threads (Table on page 5). With Lyocell, too, one should try and compensate the low stability values by choosing thicker threads. Pre-dyed jeans -- sewing thread concept: Topstitched seams: GARMENT DYEING 2 (Needle thread) GARMENT DYEING 6 (Bobbin thread) Closing seams: GARMENT DYEING 6 (Needle and bobbin thread) Edge-finishing: GARMENT DYEING 12 (Needle and bobbin thread) 7

8 The decisive advantage of the polyamide concept is its high seam quality. All the quality problems that occur when using Lyocell or cotton threads are of no significance here. Seam stability, seam elasticity, and seam abrasion resistance are at an average good level exceeding it even with regard to abrasion resistance. Damaged seams due to seam breaks or worn out stitches are not possible. To ensure a perfect dyeing result with PA sewing threads, the dyeing method must be extended. An acid dyeing processing step for polyamide must be added to the reactive dyeing method used for cotton. The following diagram shows an example for a suitable dyeing method. When comparing it with the standard cotton dyeing method, the differences become clear at once. The price to be paid for this kind of quality is a more complicated dyeing process. Because the standard dyeing processes for cotton will not suffice to thoroughly dye polyamide threads. The following pictures show seams, where the special requirements for dyeing PA were taken into consideration. Often, when producers try out the PA concept results are as shown in the pictures, since the required adjustments in the dyeing processes were not implemented at least not properly. By taking a look at industry practice the causes are quickly understood: Usually dyeing is done in distant countries, in large quantities, and in many different dye houses. If you know production conditions there, you will know how hard it is to implement new standards and requirements for new dyeing methods. Temp. C with dyeing Dyeing method with/without dyeing of the PA-thread A B C 45 Min. D 15 Min Time Min. Reactive dyeing with BEZAKTIV S Rinsing with interim cleaning Acid dyeing with BEMAPLEX D E F 2 Min. without dyeing Reactive dyeing with BEZAKTIV S Rinsing with soaping process Dyeing method for garment dyeing: Standard cotton dyeing and standard cotton dyeing with additional dyeing of the PA sewing thread; Source: Bezema If you are willing to invest into this additional dyeing step, the result will be perfect. A basic condition for a successful realisation is a close cooperation of all the parties involved: Producer, AMANN, dyestuff producer and dye house must work out a solution together! For the best possible dye formulas and methods, rely on the dyestuff producers' experience. Unsatisfactory seam quality: PA sewing threads dyed in standard cotton dyeing process 8 Service &Technik

9 Sewing recommendations Assuming cotton threads to be the standard sewing threads in garment dyeing, their selection and adhering to production parameters are of utmost importance. Firstly sewing conditions must be adjusted to the special sewing properties of cotton threads, and secondly critical seam quality must be optimized as far as possible. The following overview shows the most important recommendations. Stitch density The stitch density has a direct influence on the cross-resistance and seam elasticity, the weak points of garment dyeing. Seams that will be subjected to a high level of wear and tear should therefore be sewn with a higher stitch density than usual. Exact parameters must be determined for each sewing operation (seam and stitch type) individually. For finishing the cut edges, a minimum stitch density of 4 stitches/cm is required to prevent fraying during the dyeing and finishing processes. Thread tension The correct thread tension is the key for ensuring even seams and a satisfactory seam stability and elasticity. It should be as low as possible to achieve the proper thread distribution from needle and bobbin thread. Stitch and seam type Not every stitch type or every seam type is suited for every sewing operation. With respect to the seam breaking strength, the simple lock stitch closing seam or a double chainstitch is the weakest solution. Depending on the sewing thread concept and sewing operation, this sewing method should not always be applied. For example, when using MERCIFIL 4 for needle and bobbin thread to close a back seam on trousers, this simple closing seam is absolutely unsuitable. Here, it is necessary to add a topstitched seam to increase the seam breaking strength to the required level. In general, a topstitched seam significantly improves the seam breaking strength. 2-needle-topstitching or sewing operations, especially felled seams, are beneficial for seam breaking strength, but at the same time aggravate the problem of seam pucker. Experience in practice has shown that double chainstitching is more susceptible to stress in the dyeing and finishing processes than double lock stitching. Since the looping of needle and bobbin thread occurs outside the material plies, the looping points of double chainstitching, especially the pointed loops visible on the underside of the material, are more susceptible to damage. This behaviour must be given special consideration when determining the waist band seam on jeans, which in general is a very critical seam with respect to abrasion. The waist band seam in pre-dyed garments should not be sewn with double chainstitching. Under the aspect of seam elasticity, however, double chainstitching is to be favoured. The greater thread reserve provides a better seam elasticity. Lockstitching cannot provide sufficient seam elasticity required for the processing of elastic materials, not even with a sufficiently high stitch density and low thread tension. For a proper inside workmanship of a garment piece, we recommend using seam types such as felled seams, cased seams or bound seams. The various advantages and disadvantages of the various stitch and seam types prove once again how carefully and individually they must be determined for each sewing operation. Choosing the needle For the AMANN cotton threads we recommend using the following needle sizes: MERCIFIL 12 Needle size Nm CORNETA 24/2 Needle size Nm 1-13 MERCIFIL 4 Needle size Nm 8-9 MERCIFIL 5 Needle size Nm 7-8 The precise adjustment and selection of the suitable needle point must be done keeping the material and the sewing operation in mind. To avoid fabric damage by needle penetration a common problem in garment dyeing the needle should always be as fine as possible. It has proven beneficial even to use rounded needle points (FFG or SES) for delicate materials. Above sewing recommendations also apply for the use of Lyocell threads. It is just as important for these to improve the seam quality by choosing the best suited sewing parameters. Polyamide sewing threads, of course, are different: For these, you can use your standard sewing parameters. There is no need to adjust the sewing conditions for reasons of quality. Only their greater elongation, compared to standard polyester sewing threads, can to some extent require an adjustment of thread tension. 9

10 At a glance: Sewing threads for garment dyeing Which sewing thread concept is the right one for garment dyeing? Cotton, Lyocell, or polyamide which raw material provides the best conditions? Which are the advantages or disadvantages of the individual solutions? To answer these questions it is necessary to have all the information and arguments available. Here are the most important decision factors at a glance: Standards and alternatives: Raw material and size concepts Standard Alternative 1 Alternative 2 Alternative 3 Alternative 4 Raw material/ Cotton spun Lyocell Polyamide 6 Polyester Combination of alternative1 + construction thread multifilament threads multifilament threads corespun thread cotton polyester corespun thread Closing and MERCIFIL 4 LYOCELL 4 GARMENT DYEING SABA C 8, RASANT 75 or 12 joining seams and 6 1 or 12 bobbin threads for GARMENT DYEING topstitching seams 12 (underwear) Ornamental and CORNETA LYOCELL 2 GARMENT DYEING SABA C 25, CORNETA 24/2 topstitching seams 24/2 2 or 3 3, 35 or 5 MERCIFIL12 (Needle thread) MERCIFIL 12 Edge-finishing MERCIFIL 5 MERCIFIL 5 GARMENT DYEING SABA C 8, 1, RASANT 75 or or 15 PA-BAUSCHGARN SABATEX SGD 12 (underwear) 12 You will find all of these alternatives in practice. Besides the standard concept, mainly alternatives 1 and 2 are discussed. Alternative 4 is a modification of the standard concept with an improved seam quality for closing seams. Alternative 3 is based on the common polyester concept. This solution is unusual at first glance, but still useful for some producers of high-quality goods. Standards and alternatives in comparison: Technical Data Ticket numbers for topstitching seams (needle thread) MERCIFIL 12 CORNETA 24/2 LYOCELL 2 GARMENT GARMENT SABA C 35 DYEING 2 DYEING 3 Count [dtex]* 395x3 377x2 513x2 61x3 338x3 411x2 Maximum tensile strength [cn]* Elongation at Break 8 7,5 12, [%]* * Mean values of one production year Ticket numbers for joining and overlock seams MERCIFIL 4 MERCIFIL 5 LYOCELL 4 GARMENT GARMENT BAUSCH- SABA C 8 RASANT DYEING 6 DYEING 12 GARN PA 75 SGD 12 Count [dtex]* 23x2 189x2 165x3 268x2 134x2 182x1 222x2 214x2 Maximum tensile strength [cn]* Elongation at Break 6,5 7 11, [%]* * Mean values of one production year 1 Service &Technik

11 Standards and alternatives in comparison: Important parameters for evaluation An analysis of complaints received pertaining to garment dyeing reveals weaknesses: Seam stability and seam abrasion resistance are the most common issues here. In addition, the thread's elongation at break is decisive when evaluating the quality, since it influences the sewability and seam elasticity. For consumers, the most important factor is the look of a seam: Irrespective of the sewing thread concept, the seam must look good therefore this comparison. Seam breaking strength Seams made with SABA C 8 and GARMENT DYEING 6 feature much better seam stability than cotton or Lyocell thread seams. And, depending on the dyeing conditions, the results for MERCIFIL and LYOCELL can even be less favourable in practice, so that the difference to the usual quality is even greater. Seem breaking strength (dan) Elongation at break Elongation at break (%) SABA C 8 RASANT 75 Sewing thread test in accordance with ISO 262 GARMENT DYEING 6 MERCIFIL 4 LYOCELL 4 The low elongation inherent to cotton threads is problematic for sewability and has a strong adverse effect on seam elasticity. In practice, this causes a high thread break rate and seam breaks at low stress in the lengthwise direction and this despite carefully setting the sewing machines. All the other concepts are clearly better here. The high elongation of the polyamide thread provides an extremely good seam elasticity, which makes sense for all elastic garment pre-dyed parts. In production, high elongation requires a precise thread tension adjustment. SABA C 8 RASANT 75 MERCIFIL 4 LYOCELL 4 GARMENT DYEING 6 Look of the seam Test of dyed goods in accordance with EN ISO Seam abrasion resistance 6. Seam abrasion resistance (Tours) SABA C 35 CORNETA 24/2 Abrasion test with dyed seams using the Martindale tester LYOCELL 2 GARMENT DYEING 3 Cotton concept Lyocell concept Polyamide concept PES concept Perfect dyeing Perfect dyeing Perfect dyeing Perfect look with standard with standard with adapted with adjusted cotton dyeing cotton dyeing dyeing method cotton dyeing An optimal look, meaning perfect matching of sewing thread and material, is possible with any of these concepts. Only the methods of getting there differ. The results of the cotton and Lyocell tests show the significant weak points of these sewing thread concepts. The seam abrasion resistance is extremely low. In practice this leads to worn out seams, frequently visible on new products or even a shortly after first use. In comparison, the polyamide concept features an outstanding abrasion resistance. It guarantees an optimal seam quality even under extreme use. 11

12 Standards and alternatives: Advantages and disadvantages Standard Alternative 1 Alternative 2 Alternative 3 Alternative 4 COTTON LYOCELL POLYAMIDE POLYESTER COTTON/COTTON-POLYESTER ADVANTAGES Easy dyeing Easy dyeing Best possible seam quality Best possible seam quality Perfect seam quality for all inside 1 dye bath 1 dye bath Highest abrasion resistance Highest abrasion resistance closing and joinging seams matching dyeing results for usually matching dyeing results Maximum seam breaking Maximum seam breaking High abrasion resistance material and sewing thread for material and sewing thread strength strength High seam breaking strength low costs low costs Excellent seam elasticity Good seam elasticity Good seam elasticity Good look of the seam and Good look of the seam with Best conditions for preventing Good sewability good dyeing result correct colour sewing thread seam pucker Best conditions for preventing Good conditions for preventing seam pucker seam pucker Perfect sewability DISADVANTAGES Extremely low seam quality Extremely low seam quality Greater expense for dyeing Advantage of flexibility in All inside seams tinged with grey Low abrasion resistance of seam Low wet stability Dyeing method must be adapted determining the colour is lost; Low seam breaking strength Low abrasion resistance of seam to polyamide 6 the colour must be chosen prior Low seam elasticity Low seam breaking strength Adding the step of acid dyeing to production Tendency to develop seam pucker to the standard dyeing method Risk of seam damage Higher costs Logistic advantage of garment Multi-thread concept Risk of seam damage Highest risk of complaints dyeing is lost Low abrasion resistance at all Highest risk of complaints More time-consuming topstitching seams (needle thread) Higher costs Realisation is only possible when Inside look not perfect working closely together with dyestuff producers and dye houses High risk of complaints (damaged topstitching seams) Service &Technik 12

13 Service &Technik

14 Amann & Söhne GmbH & Co. KG Hauptstraße 1 D Bönnigheim Phone +49 () 71 43/ Fax +49 () 71 43/ nt@amann.com GB246 All facts and figures are intended exclusively for your information All recommendations presuppose adjustment of the sewing conditions to the appropriate sewing fabric.