intelligent threads.

Transcription

1 intelligent s.

2 basic knowledge. Important stitch types at a glance. s are the main processing element of the clothing industry. They describe the processing and are used as a language code for all processing descriptions. However, not everyone is familiar with the terms and numerations according to 91 and DIN 1, the seam appearance and the correct stitch formation. This brochure includes the most important stitch types as graphics and a picture of the corresponding seam appearance. The overview also contains industry standard data concerning seam and stitch per stitch type as well as the respective requirement. The cause of incorrect balance lies in unbalanced tension settings of the sewing machine. This changes the ratio between needle, bobbin or looper and, if applicable, cover and can influence the overall requirement tremendously, especially in stitch types of categories and. The optimal balance in the seam. Determining your sewing requirement. Knowing your requirement is essential for work preparation, calculation and disposition. The basis for determining the sewing requirement is the stitch type. Therefore, the following overview lists the requirement figures based on the industry standard parameters: stitch, sewing material thickness, seam and seam length per stitch type. The indicated requirement relates to the respective system (needle + bobbin or looper + cover and is also listed in the overview as overall amount. This way it is possible to determine the consumption for single seam positions of a garment by multiplying seam length and requirement. Furthermore, the table shows the percentage distribution of the sewing requirement per system (needle, bobbin or looper and cover. Double Please keep in mind that the sewing material thickness can influence the percentage distribution (see section sewing material thickness). Factors that mainly influence the sewing requirement: The stitch has great influence on the sewing requirement, in particular for stitch types with cross-directional s (, cover chain or zig-zag stitches). An increase of the stitch from to stitches/cm at the lockstitch (stitch type 1) leads, for example, to a sewing requirement increase of approx. 1 %. At the 2-needle cover (stitch type 2), the sewing requirement increases even by approx. % with the same increase in stitch. This must be considered during calculation in order to avoid shortage in quantities and therefore costly subsequent deliveries. Sewing material thickness A change in the sewing material thickness has a great effect on the sewing requirement as well. Besides a change in the overall requirement, it is possible that the ratio between the systems could shift. An increase in the sewing material thickness leads to a change in the relation between needle and looper for all stitch types, whose interlooping does not take place within but outside the fabric, an example is the double. In this case, an increase of the sewing material thickness leads to an increase of the needle requirement, whereas the looper requirement remains constant. Thread tension and balance The overview on the subsequent pages shows stitch appearances with an optimal balance. If the interlooping or interlacing does not take place on the ideal position, there is an incorrect balance. This does not only affect the requirement, but also the seam strength and the seam elasticity. Therefore, it is crucial to aim always for an optimal balance. = needle = bobbin = looper Additional requirement The requirement figures listed in the overview are so-called net s. This means that they refer exclusively to a seam of one meter. In practice, there is a supplement of approx. 1 1 % calculated on of the net amount in order to ensure a sufficient supply during model calculation. This supplement considers the following procedures: - Securing of seam beginning and seam end with lockstitch seams, e.g. by bar tacking - Sewing seam ends of es - Change of colour - Remaining meters in case of spool or cone change - Variability in sizes - Model or production related changes The mentioned relations have to be considered during model calculation. If the parameters such as stitch, sewing material thickness, tension, seam etc. of the piece being calculated do not match the information in this brochure, it is possible to easily identify the missing sewing requirement figures through unravelling and measuring a seam.

3 blindstitch blindstitch lockstitch (handstitch) 21 1 (multiple zig-zag) Double 2-needle cover (without cover -needle cover (without cover = needle = bobbin = looper CT = cover 91 = needle = bobbin = looper CT = cover ,8 2,98 2,2 2,2 1,8,9,9,8,,8, * /* 1,1 12,11 12,2 9,,8, 2,2 1,8 2, 1,8 /* 21,1 1,9 1,28 12,8,81,1,,1,,8 29% 28% 2% 2% % 1% * 1% 2% % % % 9% /*,,8,,22 2,1 1,1 2,2 1,8 2, * 1,9 1,1 /* 1,9 1,1 2,2 1,8,9,9 2,8, 2,8, * 2

4 2 2- stitch (interlooped at needle hole) 2- stitch (interlooped on edge) - stitch (interlooped at needle hole) - stitch (interlooped on edge) stitch 2-needle cover (with cover -needle cover (with cover -needle cover (with cover CT CT CT = needle = bobbin = looper CT = cover stitch (imitated safety stitch) = needle = bobbin = looper CT = cover 1 91 stitch 18,9 1, 18, 1, 1,1 12, 1, 12,21 1,22 11, % % 11% 12% % % 12% 1% * % % 89% 88% % % 88% 8% /* 1,8 1,1 1,8 1,91 1,28 8,8 22,1 1, 18,8 1, /* 9,1, 8,2,,99,1, 2,18 28, 21,2 2,2 1,2 2,1 18,8 22,1 1,8 2% 2% 22% 2% 2% 21% 1% 1% 18% 19% * 2% 9% 1% 2% 8% 8% 82% 81% /* 2% 2% 29% 2% % 2% 8,,,22,9,1,,,22,22 *, 1,19, 1, 12,2 8,2,9 1,2 1, /* 8,,2 2,1 1,1 9,12,1 2,1 1,1 1,22 11, *

5 = needle = bobbin = looper CT = cover stitch Double chain- tack without bar button hole Eyelet Button hole Button hole = needle = bobbin = looper CT = cover button Attach shank with button Attach button Attach button Bar tack Spot tack es No. of stitches es No. of stitches,12,,,2,1,1, *,1,,1 /*,22,12,,2,1,2, Thread requirement in m % % * % % /* Thread requirement (%),,11, *,2,8 /*,9,98, Thread requirement in m % 11% * % 89% /* Thread requirement (%) 18 1 Implementation -hole 2-hole -hole -hole 2-hole 12 2 Implementation 9

6 Underwear Empirical data for roughly calculating the requirement. It is important to know the amount of required for each piece. This is the precondition for ordering the right quantities, reducing stock and optimising costs. The following tables help herewith. The figures contained in them are based on fashionable as well as qualitative characteristics of the garments. A blazer with lining, for example, does normally not require any serging seams. This leads to a lower requirement in comparison to the requirement of a blazer without lining. Sporting elements such as decorative seams lead to an increased requirement. The supplements for seam beginning and seam end as well as change of colour have already been considered. Ladieswear Vests/t-shirts Underpants Ladies/Men Bras Decorative/cover seam Homewear Nightgowns Decorative seam Football shoes 2-8 Men s shoes Women s shoes Women s boots 2-28 Trousers Skirts Blouses Dresses (classic, with lining) Dresses (sporting, without lining) Blazers (classic, with lining) Blazers (sporty, without lining) Winter jackets (with lining) Suer jackets (without lining) Coats 11 Decorative seam Shoes Our service for you: Sewing recoendations for your specific fabric and sewing parameters as well as requirement calculations are available on request from AMANN s technical sewing service. Menswear Decorative seam Classic trousers pocket trousers Blazers Coats/jackets 2-2 Shirts (short-sleeve) Shirts (long-sleeve)

7 12 EN 211 intelligent s. apparel home interior shoes & leather automotive Our management systems are certified according to embroidery techtex Amann & Söhne GmbH & Co. KG Hauptstraße 1 D- Bönnigheim Phone service@amann.com