CRYSTALLIZED Swarovski Elements and Suitable Application Techniques

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3 CRYSTALLIZED Swarovski Elements and Suitable This list offers and overview of CRYSTALLIZED Swarovski Elements, suitable for the methods of application described in this manual. CRYSTALLIZED Swarovski Elements Gluing Soldering and Electroplating Application techniques Hotfix Application Sewing and Embroidery Beading Mechanical Application Round Stones Flat Backs No Hotfix Flat Backs Hotfix Sew-on Stones Fancy Stones Beads Crystal Pearls Pendants Transfers No Hotfix Transfers Crystal Tattoos Crystal-it Crystal Fabric Crystal Transfabric Crystal Glaze Crystaltex Crystal Yarn Plastic Trimmings Zippers Buttons & Fasteners Metal Trimmings Crystal Mesh Cupchains & Findings Setting Please note: the product groups Round Stones and Fancy Stones are also suitable for applications like sewing and beading if the stones are set in suitable metal casings. More information on this subject can be found in the chapter Settings for CRYSTALLIZED Swarovski Elements. General Information 5

4 sewing, embroidery AND beading The CRYSTALLIZED Swarovski Elements assortment includes many articles that are suitable for sewing, for embroidery or for beading. These products can either be applied by hand or by machine, using standard or industrial sewing and embroidery machines.

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6 PRODUCT OVERVIEW <<< The following product groups are suitable for application by sewing, embroidery or beading: Sewing Embroidery Beading Sew-on Stones Beads Crystal Pearls Pendants Crystal Fabric Crystal Transfabric Crystal Glaze Crystaltex Crystal Yarn Plastic Trimmings Zippers Buttons & Fasteners Metal Trimmings Crystal Mesh Cupchains & Findings Please note: the product groups Round Stones and Fancy Stones are also suitable for applications such as sewing and beading, if the stones are set in suitable casings. More information on this can be found in the chapter Settings for CRYSTALLIZED Swarovski Elements. MACHINES, TOOLS AND AIDS <<< The following machines, tools and aids are necessary for sewing, embroidery and beading of CRYSTALLIZED Swarovski Elements. Machines machines can be used for simple sewing on of CRYSTALLIZED Swarovski Elements. The industrial process is usually carried out using industrial sewing machines, automatic button sewers or highly automatic embroidery machines. Standard household sewing machines offer a range of stitch types such as straight stitch, zigzag stitch and a programme for sewing on buttons and are therefore well suited for applying CRYSTALLIZED TM Swarovski Elements Industrial sewing machines are suitable for most sewing applications. Nevertheless a machine with a zigzag stitching programme is necessary for some elements. Automatic button sewers can also be used for the application of special Crystal Buttons. Fully automatic embroidery machines with lock stitch heads are the most useful ones for the application of Crystal Yarn. 50

7 Tools The lock stitch head is ideal for the application of Crystal Yarn needles sizes Nm Embroidery machine needles sizes Nm Sewing thread (strength at least 60); stronger synthetic thread is more suitable for Sew-on Stones and Crystal Buttons Aids Foot for sewing on Beads & Crystal Pearls If no suitable is offered from the manufacturer it is possible to adapt a standard sewing. This is done by gluing two metal plates onto the. Adapted sewing One-row trimmings or bandings can be applied using a sewing that has been adapted with two little metal plates. A button can be used for the application of Crystal Buttons and Sew-on Stones. A zipper is helpful for sewing on Zippers and Lingerie Fasteners. Application aid for special Sew-on Stones (for Sew-on Stone x21 mm Art. 9040/060, Sys.No and for 20x16 mm Art. 9040/061, Sys.No ) 51

8 The wearing of protective eyewear is recommended when making applications to avoid the possibility of being injured. Embroidery fleece stabilises the fabric. Spray glue is used to fix the fabric on the fleece. A frame serves to stabilise thin and elastic fabrics. APPLICATION <<< Application Table CRYSTALLIZED Swarovski Elements Machines Tools/Aids Programme Useful information Sew-on Stones Crystal Fabric, Crystal Transfabric Crystal Glaze & Crystaltex Button or Applicator for Art (for Sew-on Stone x21 mm Art. 9040/060, Sys.No and for 20x16 mm Art. 9040/061, Sys. No ) Button programme or zigzag stitch without feed function, zigzag stitch Crystal Glaze Crystaltex (Hotfix) Crystaltex (No Hotfix), zigzag-stitch (single row), zigzag-stitch (single row) Switch off the lower feed, adjust the stitch width and stitch into every hole After being ironed on, it can additionally be sewn on between the first and second row of crystals. Sew between the rows of stones Crystal Yarn Adapted standard sewing Zigzag stitch that is wider than the crystals of the Crystal Yarn Make sure that the Crystal Yarn runs straight in the Embroidery machine Lock stitch head Zigzag stitch Coiling technique We recommend only 2 and 3 mm Beads and Crystal Pearls! Only 2 and 3 mm Beads and Crystal Pearls Plastic Trimmings Basic Bandings (single row) Adapted standard sewing Zigzag stitch; that is wider than the trimming Make sure the trimming runs straight in the Basic Bandings (multi-row) Decorative Bandings Special sewing machine Special Straight or zigzag stitch Programmed stitch Stitch the banding between the first and second row of crystals Decorative Bandings are also available with a net-edge. 52

9 CRYSTALLIZED Swarovski Elements Machines Tools/Aids Programme Useful information Plastic Trimmings Fishnet Bandings Elastic Bandings Plastic Components, button sewer Adapted standard sewing Adapted standard sewing Button Zigzag stitch that is wider than the trimming Zigzag stitch Zippers Zipper Buttons & Fasteners Crystal Buttons, button sewer Lingerie Fasteners Magnet Fasteners Metal Trimmings Chaton Bandings Crystal Mesh Cupchains & Findings Flat Back Bandings Chaton & Flat Back Ornamentals Crystal Mesh (Hotfix) Crystal Mesh (No Hotfix) Button or zipper Cupchains Adapted standard sewing Button programme or zigzag stitch without feed function Zigzag stitch Adjust the needle bar so that the stitches are next to the crystals Make sure that the trimming runs straight in the Switch of the lower feed and adapt the stitch length to the product Sew on in the same way as a standard zipper Switch off the lower feed and adapt the stitch width to suit the product Thread the material through the eyelet and stitch next to the fastener Thread the material through the eyelet and stitch next to the fastener The banding is sewn on by stitching between the first and second row of crystals. The banding is sewn on by stitching between the first and second row of crystals. It is easy to sew on using the net-edge on the side Crystal mesh that has already been ironed on can also be sewn on between the first and second row of crystals. Sew on by stitching between the first and second row of crystals Make sure that the Cupchain runs straight in the. Please note: when processing bandings with net-edge, it is necessary to sew on the product at the beginning and the end to ensure that it is stable and firmly attached. Application with Sewing Machine The right choice of needle (recommended size is Nm 70-90), the sewing thread and the tension of the upper and lower thread are particularly important for applications with a sewing machine. The fabric must not crinkle and the upper and lower thread must run lightly and evenly. Before sewing on Crystal Buttons with a machine it is essential to set the button machine to the correct number of holes and stitches and the correct stitch length. This prevents the Crystal Button from being damaged while being applied and reduces the danger of injury. Tests should be conducted on fabric scraps before the beginning of production. Sew-on Stones Crystal Glaze Crystaltex 53

10 Crystaltex Bandings Crystal Yarn Basic Bandings (single row) Basic Bandings (multi row) Fishnet Bandings Zippers Crystal Buttons Lingerie Fasteners Magnet Fasteners Chaton Bandings Crystal Mesh Cupchains Application with Embroidery Machine 1 Design the motif and choose the desired variety of Crystal Yarn, the embroidery thread and the embroidery technique (coiling or zigzag stitch) 2 A lock stitch head can be used for applying Crystal Yarn because it allows the Crystal Yarn to be fixed to the carrier material by means of either zigzag stitch or coiling. 3 After the spool and thread are in place, the material to be embroidered is temporarily fixed into place with spray glue and correctly positioned. 54

11 4 Stitching process (in this case a coiling technique has been applied) 5 The customised material is now ready for further processing. Please note: more information and useful tips for the further use of Crystal Yarn can be found on the DVD The Application of Crystal Yarn, which is available through the regional Swarovski representative. Beading The broad spectrum of CRYSTALLIZED TM Swarovski Elements offers the perfect choice of products for numerous creative decorative processes that are done by hand, the most common application is known as beading. The term beading is understood to comprehend the practices of stringing, knotting and beadwork. Stringing Knotting Beadwork The Swarovski Business website and the DIY website include a list of detailed instructions for these techniques and information concerning necessary tools and aids required for this work. Hand Application All of the CRYSTALLIZED TM Swarovski Elements listed in the product overview can alternatively also be applied by hand. For example, Crystal Yarn can be knitted or crocheted. Beads and Crystal Pearls can be sewn on by hand in order to embellish the holes of e.g. Lochrosen or Sew-on Stones. Knitting Crystal Yarn can also be processed with normal knitting needles. Crocheting Crocheting with Crystal Yarn can be done using normal crochet hooks. 55

12 USEFUL INFORMATION <<< Adapted Sewing Foot To adapt a standard sewing for a sewing machine to make it easier to sew on Plastic Trimmings or Crystal Yarn, two small plates can be glued onto the underside of the using any type of epoxy resin glue. The metal plates should be coordinated according to the height and the dimensions of the crystal elements. When gluing, attention should be paid to the recommended width. H mm Trimming W mm Metal Plates The metal plates are glued left and right onto the standard sewing. Adapted standard sewing Sewing feet and metal plates for CRYSTALLIZED - Swarovski Elements available through Swarovski Width Height Sewing Feet (Pfaff) Metal Plates Plastic Trimmings mm 2.3 mm Art. 9040/033, Sys.No Art. 9040/055, Sys.No mm 2.5 mm Art. 9040/034, Sys.No Art. 9040/056, Sys.No mm 3.5 mm Art. 9040/035, Sys.No Art. 9040/057, Sys.No Crystal Yarn mm 3.5 mm Art. 9040/035, Sys.No Art. 9040/057, Sys.No mm 3.5 mm Art. 9040/035, Sys.No Art. 9040/057, Sys.No mm 2.3 mm Art. 9040/033, Sys.No Art. 9040/055, Sys.No Zigzag Stitch Length and width of the stitch must be adjusted to suit the element being applied. The width of the stitch should be 0.5 mm 1 mm broader on both sides than the crystal elements being applied. The length of the stitch should be equal to about 2/3 of the width of the stitch. In some cases the tension of the upper thread must be reduced. Sewing on Crystal Mesh Before sewing the Crystal Mesh, the transparent carrier foil should be cut along the line where it is to be sewn using a utility knife and a ruler. With a machine, sew the Crystal Mesh along the cut line. To avoid the Crystal Mesh slipping, make sure that the transparent film is only removed after it has been sewn on. First cut the foil with a utility knife 56

13 Application Aids CRYSTALLIZED TM Swarovski Elements offers application aids for Sew-on Stones in order to simplify machine application (for Sew-on Stone x21 mm Art. 9040/060, Sys.No ; for 20x16 mm Art. 9040/061, Sys.No ). 1 Position the Sew-on Stone 2 Place the aid on the Sew-on Stone while matching up the facets 3 Place the aid with the Sew-on Stone underneath the and choose a button-sewing programme or a zigzag stitch. Attention: The transport feed must be turned off! The use of the application aid in some makes of sewing machines can involve some readjustment of the tension release. This is necessary to avoid sewing without any tension. Adjustment of Upper Thread Tension If the upper thread tension is too firm or too loose the resulting seam is not firm. The tension of the thread must therefore be adjusted accordingly. If the tension in the upper thread is correct the threads cross in the middle of the textile. If the tension in the upper thread is too tight then the lower thread is visible on the upper surface of the fabric and the fabric can crinkle. If the tension in the upper thread is too loose, the crossing of the threads is visible on the upper surface of the fabric. Sewing on Zippers It is possible to sew very close to the teeth of the zipper when using a zipper. It can also be very helpful to adjust the needle bar. 57

14 Troubleshooting PROBLEM ERROR Product or fabric is not fed through correctly 1, 2, 3 The machine misses out stitches. 4, 5, 6, 7 The thread breaks. 4, 6, 8, 9 The needle breaks. 10, 11, 12, 13 The crystals break out of the cups. 14 ERROR CAUSE RECOMMENDATION 1 The pressure may be too low. Increase the pressure according to the instructions 2 There may be dust in the lower transport feed. Clean the transport feed system. 3 Upper feed is faulty. Replace the upper feed 4 The needle may be bent or damaged. Replace the needle 5 The needle is not fitted correctly. It must be pushed right up to the top 6 The machine may be threaded wrongly. Rethread the machine 7 The tension of the threads may be incorrect. Check the tension 8 There may be knots in the thread or it may be too thin. Check the thread for faults and if necessary, change it. 9 The components that form the stitches may be damaged. Have the sewing machine checked by a specialist technician 10 The wrong needle may have been chosen. Choose a needle that is the correct size for the carrier material 11 Perhaps the bobbin is not fitted correctly. Check the bobbin case 12 The needle is too thick and gets stuck in the product. Use a thinner needle 13 The needle hits the crystal. Sew more slowly and feed the product through the machine more carefully 14 The needle damages the cup. Check the length of the stitch and the thickness of the needle 58

15 SUPPLIERS <<< This list provides an overview of chosen recommended suppliers worldwide and is to serve as a guide to find the optimal supplies. MACHINES / TOOLS / AIDS SUPPLIER CONTACT s Pfaff Machine needles feet Elna International Corp. S.A. Prym Ferd. Schmetz GmbH Groz-Beckert Group Elna International Corp. S.A. For Plastic Trimming 50002: Elna Art For Plastic Trimmings 50003, and Crystal Yarn 59000, 59100, 59200: Elna Art Swarovski (for Pfaff sewing machines) For Plastic Trimming 50002: Art. 9040/033, Sys.No For Plastic Trimming and Crystal Yarn 59200: Art. 9040/034, Sys.No For Plastic Trimming and Crystal Yarn 59100, 59000: Art. 9040/035, Sys.No Sewing thread Coats Amann & Söhne GmbH & Co. KG Madeira Garnfabrik KG Sewing aids Metal plates Industrial embroidery machines Swarovski For Sew-on Stone x16 mm: Art. 9040/061, Sys.No For Sew-on Stone x21 mm: Art. 9040/060, Sys.No Swarovski For Plastic Trimming and Crystal Yarn 59100, 59200: Art. 9040/055, Sys.No For Plastic Trimming 50003: Art. 9040/056, Sys.No For Plastic Trimming and Crystal Yarn 59000: Art. 9040/057, Sys.No Tajima Tokai Industrial Sewing Machine Co. Machine types: TMLH 1, TMLH 2 ZSK GmbH Machine types: YCZ, XGZ, MGZ, SCZ, JCW (only special sewing heads) Meca S.p.A. Machine type: Multi Tech 65 Ecording Barudan America Inc. Machine types: HLZ1210, BEVS-HLZ1206, BEVX-HLCLZ