Innovative Technologies. Laura Pritchard, Kate Hargreaves, Bryher Barker, Isobel Aston

Transcription

1 Innovative Technologies Laura Pritchard, Kate Hargreaves, Bryher Barker, Isobel Aston

2 Binding Machine Designed for lingerie and sportswear fabrics. Eliminate stretch or create tension. Separate heating zones utilizing hot air, heated chutes and heated belts to transfer heat to the correct area to achieve a satisfactory bond. Positives are that it creates a good, comfortable neat finish, available in various widths, colours and materials, can bond to many different fabrics without settings having to be changes. Negatives are that lighter fabrics are harder to bind as the cool air blows the fabric out of line and it restricts stretch. Flat finish. Waterproof. Strong. Comfortable next to skin. Wind resistant. Can be used with Gortex Ultrasonic sealer High risk. Long process Not good on curves. Expensive to produce Can come undone if temperatures aren t correct Can be used in conjunction with admel ultrasew welding machine. The very narrow welded or lockstitch seam is strengthened by applying a 10mm waterproof tape to the seam. The HMI panel is used for setting speed & temperatures. Maximum temperature is 750 c. Compress air required. Automatic scissor cut off & power save feature. High risk machinery. Flat finish. Strong. Comfortable next to skin. No stitching. Can hem or join. Fabric wont pucker. High risk. Glue doesn t always stick. Not good on curves. Temperature can singe fabric. Expensive.

3 Right hand knife film lay down bonding machine. + Designed to apply the adhesive leaving a clean cut edge. The lay down machine applies adhesive film to the edge of a garment and trims the excess fabric with the adhesive edge. While applying the adhesive film, the machine can set to pull in the garment edge slightly to achieve a flat final bond with the film. Flat finish. Strong. Comfortable next to skin. No stitching. Can hem or join. High risk. Glue doesn t always stick. Not good on curves. Temperature can singe fabric. Expensive. Adhesive can come off during washing if not correct temperature. Every fabric has a different tape and if it's wrong it may not stick. Thinner fabrics can wave. Feed of the arm bonding machine Designed for joining arms and legs and hemming. Suitable for sports wear, Lingerie and waterproof fabrics. Separate heating zones utilizing hot air, heated chutes and heated belts to transfer heat to the correct area to achieve a satisfactory bond. Positives are that it is a secure water proof finish negatives are that it has no stretch, if the settings aren t correct for the fabric it will come undone and when two pieces are being joined, an unattractive raw edge is left on the wrong side.

4 Ultra sew Ultrasonic welding/jig cutter Cuts and seals bonding textiles together without thread using ULTRASONIC welding technology. The walking foot and positioning pin, hold the fabric in place whilst the machine trims & welds the fabric. This type of seam is strengthened by applying a 10mm adhesive tape on the ardmel MK 501 seam sealing machine. This can provide a flat waterproof seam also. Capable of handling most types of materials with synthetic content including laminated & coated 60% thermoplastic content is required for a secure weld. Small seam. Good strength Can be used on a variety of synthetic fabrics. The jig allows for flexibility whilst operating. Capable of handling all types of fabrics with synthetic content including laminated & coated. Rough seam left over. Doesn t allow stretch, seams crack. Can only be used on +65% manmade fibres. Not as strong as a conventional seam, can easily be broken if not at the right temperature. ensuring no fraying unlike laser cutting.

5 Ultrasonic welder Ultrasonic welding is an innovative alternative & complementary method used with conventional sewing. Fabrics are placed between the sonotrode and the anvil wheel and welding continuously under pressure. This machine has 4 different wheels which leave a straight or decorative impression. Care must be taken at seam junctions where there are multiple layers. When welding continuously the fabric will be subject to rapid changing pressure vibration. The ultra-high frequency vibrations develop heat & this friction produces a molecular change to the fabric beneath its surface. Low risk. Can be used for decoration. Strong. No bulk or thread so comfortable. Very low power consumption No emissions Accurate Positives are that it can join several layers at once. different patterns can be created by changing the wheel Fabric must be at least 60% polyester. Can pull apart. Slow process Has to be set for the correct thickness. Not good on curves. Expensive.

6 Utility Table Used in conjunction with the ardmel bonding press. This preparation unit is used for sub-assembly allowing for realignment prior for permanent fixing on the bonding press. Accommodates pre bond-tacking for zips. Hot surface. Application: pre bonding zips, hems, seams, trims & logos. Pneumatic high pressure bonding press Designed for bonding textiles using heat and adhesives. Operated pneumatically by use of a membrane with interchangeable heated top and bottom plates. Engineered using membrane technology that guarantees precise and stable distribution of pressure. Compressed air required. Maximum welding temperature is 350 c. High risk Machinery. Applications: Bonding of flaps, pockets, flat zips, hems, seams & trims. Mainly used for active wear to create water, windproof, and seamless garments.

7 Laser cutter. Laser cutter can be used for creating decoration to a garment and the construction of garments. If a Synthetic fabric is used with the laser cutter, the laser will singe the thermoplastic fibers and stop the fabric from fraying and create a crisp edge. Can be used with any fabric. Materials can be cut or edges. Crated a nice pattern. Has great precision. Expensive. Does not seal all fabric so may fray. May weaken fabric. The image you want to cut must be very accurate.

8 3D Body Scanner Scans the body to give accurate measurements Allows the designer to create garments to suit a specific body type or shape. Can use the scanned image to help accurately draw working drawings. Can pose in the Body Scanner to improve the wear of garment and can be used for fashion illustrations Precise Quick Information can be transferred and applied in different applications such as the 3D printer The equipment is expensive. If the object being scanned moves measurements wont be correct.

9 Sewn and Seamless Technologies 1. 4 thread breakout stitch- keeps stretch in fabric, seams are flat but the stitch isn t very attractive. 2. Pegasus Top and Bottom seam cover- very attractive consistant pattern, different pattern on each side but allows some stretch 3. Union special seam cover- allows very good stretch, is dicreet on one side. Used to hide raw edges and secure hems and turn ups in place. 4. Pegasus 3 needle coverseam- has some stretch, attractive pattern, and can also be used to hold turn ups in place, hiding raw edges as well as a decoration. 5. Seam cover- good for covering seams, boning and wires to provide comfort to the body.

10 Secondary Research

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15 3D PRINTED FASHION

16 THANK YOU ANY QUESTIONS?