TAUBE 40. Assembly Manual

Transcription

1 TAUBE 40 Assembly Manual Read through the instruction manual first to familiarize yourself with the type of construction used in this model. The manual also contains important warnings and instructions for the assembly and the use of this model. Balsa USA s only obligation shall be to replace such quantity of the product to be defective. User shall determine the suitability of the product for the intended use and shall assume all risk and liability in connection therewith. BALSA USA KIT GUARANTEE We at Balsa USA want you to be completely satisfied with your kit purchase. If for any reason you are not satisfied with any part in the kit you purchased, either from us or one of our authorized hobby dealers, we will replace the part(s) in question immediately. If you have any questions regarding the construction of the model or any technical questions regarding the kit, please call us on our customer service line. One of our technical representatives will be happy to help you. Made in the USA BALSA USA P.O. Box 164 Marinette, WI (906) Copyright 1997

2 TAUBE 40 Building Instructions Thank you for purchasing our completely new Taube 40 kit. A lot more has changed than just this new instruction booklet! We have simplified the construction in many areas which will hopefully make your building experience more enjoyable. Our step-by-step, photo illustrated instructions will guide you through the entire assembly of the model leaving nothing to your imagination. At least that was our goal. In addition, the plans have been redrawn in many areas to clarify them as well. New diecut parts have been added as well. All in an effort to simplify the construction of the model. You will find the Taube an absolute joy to fly. Few WW I models will fly as well or as easily as the Taube. If you can handle a trainer, the Taube will be no problem at all. The 3- channel operation makes flying even more simple and enjoyable. If you are looking to relax and really enjoy flying an R/C model again, you have made the right choice. Even though the Taube is a small model, we have designed it so it will accept standard R/C gear. You don t need miniature servos, standard servos and equipment will fit inside very well. WARNING This model kit is not a toy. It is capable of causing serious property damage and injury to yourself and/or any bystanders. It is the buyer s complete responsibility to assemble the model correctly, properly install the engine, radio, and all other equipment required to operate the model. To make your modeling experience totally enjoyable and satisfying, we suggest that you get experienced help with the assembly and the for the first flights of this model. It is always a good idea to have another experienced modeler check your model over thoroughly before the first flights are attempted. We also suggest you contact the Academy of Model Aeronautics (AMA), which has thousands of chartered clubs across the United States. Most of them offer instructor assisted training programs which will be very helpful to the new modeler not only in flying, but also in getting started with all phases of the hobby. Join the AMA Academy of Model Aeronautics ITEMS NEEDED TO COMPLETE THIS KIT Radio Control System - Minimum 3 channels Engine: stroke stroke Propeller - size depends upon the engine displacement 8 oz. Fuel Tank (2) Packages Ny-Rod Pushrods (2) Rolls Balsa USA Aerospan Covering Fuel Line Hinges (2) 3-3/4 Williams Bros. Vintage Wheels - for main gear (1) 1 oz. USA Gold Thin CA (1) 2 oz. USA Gold Thick CA Foam Rubber for wrapping the Receiver and Battery Pack Modeling Tools Required - sandpaper, sanding blocks, #11 hobby knife, razor blades, Balsa USA wood plane, Zona Saw, pliers, drill & drill bits, T pins, masking tape, waxed paper, small screwdrivers, soldering iron, solder, solder flux, straight building board, scissors, rubber bands, heat gun & iron. Note: The use of an incidence meter is not recommended or necessary for the completion this model East Memorial Drive Muncie, IN Telephone (800) FAX (317) About the Plans Our plans are now produced by a Xerographic printing method. This results in a much more accurate plan than a traditional blueprint. However, even though the ink is fused to the paper, the paper can still expand and contract with changes in temperature and humidity. If you run into small discrepancies between the parts and the plans, always go by the parts. They are accurate and cannot change dimension like the plans can. The complete model is drawn on one plan sheet where all the parts are drawn full size. The plan shows the model exactly as it will be when completely assembled. This covers the structural parts of the Taube that are on the interior of the model too. These details are shown by way of a cut-away drawing and/or in most cases by hidden lines. Hidden (dashed) lines are on the drawing to show the details that are hidden beneath the outer structure of the model.

3 The Taube is built using balsa, spruce, birch plywood, lite (poplar) plywood, and basswood. Each of these woods have their own characteristics and were chosen for the best strength to weight ratios for the model. Each has a characteristic end grain pattern that is shown on the plans. Since most of the parts in the kit are balsa, only the plywood and hardwood parts are marked as such on the plan. The balsa parts called out are dimensioned for you to help you identify them. The plans are used to build the entire model. Be sure to always place wax paper or Saran Wrap over the plans to keep the parts from becoming glued to the plans. The plans also show a sample radio installation which is one way the radio can be installed in the model. We have shown a different method in the photos of this booklet. You may choose to install the radio any way you want based upon the size of your servos, receiver and battery pack. Before You Begin Construction The most important single item you can have to build any model is a good straight building board. We build on a door core which are usually available from any decent building supply store like Menards, Home Depot, Pay-Less, etc. Take your straight edge with you and ask for a reject door. Something with slight damage to the outside veneer. This won t affect your projects, but you can expect to pay considerably less than half the normal cost. We covered our door core with a sheet of Cellotex. You could also use foam board or any material that is flat and will accept pins easily. Always check your building board with a straight edge to assure that there are no warps before you begin assembling this, or any other model for that matter. When removing parts from the diecut sheets, do it carefully and have a hobby knife with a #11 blade handy in case the part might not be cut completely through. Taking your time here, will save you a lot more time than trying to fix a broken spar slot in a wing rib later. Punch out the parts only as you need them. This way you won t accidentally use the wrong part in the wrong place in the model. Clean the parts up if necessary using a sanding block and then only very lightly. You just want to remove the flash, and not any of the part itself or it will be too small. So use 220 grit paper on the block for a little added insurance. Speaking of sanding blocks, we talk about block sanding many times throughout this booklet. A flat sanding block is the only way to sand 90% of any model. Hand sanding will produce humps and hollows because of hard and soft spots in the balsa, glue joints, etc. Always block sand everything except the few spots that can t be reached with a block. When final sanding the model start with 220 grit paper to smooth everything out. Then progress to 320 grit paper to polish it for covering. When drilling holes in balsa, it is best to use a pin vise to hold the drill bit rather than chuck it up in an electric drill. You will be able to control the bit better and more accurately. There are a few instances where the instructions will call for the use of a scrap piece of balsa or plywood. There will be plenty of scrap wood that you will be able to use from the diecut sheets. So save some of the larger pieces from the diecut sheets for this purpose. Probably the best advise we can give you when assembling the Taube is to be sure to read this booklet through completely before beginning construction. That way you will have a good feel for how the model will be built and what you are going to have to do. Also it is a good idea to read ahead a few steps when actually building. Most people like to move ahead anyway, and this way when you do you are less likely to assemble something out of sequence that could cause a problem later. About the Wood in this Kit We always strive to put the finest quality balsa, plywood, and hardwoods in our kits. All the parts in this kit have been hand inspected prior to packing the kit. However, wood being a natural product is subject to warps and twists. Many times this happens after the kit is packed when we can t do anything about it. This is due to stresses that are relieved in the parts after they are cut from a block of wood and sometimes won t warp right away. If you have a problem with a warped part, give us a call and we will replace the part immediately. Sometimes balsa will have mineral stains and other aesthetic imperfections that will not affect the structural strength of the model at all. It just doesn t look very pretty. Because of the current supply of raw balsa, you may get some wood like this in your kit. Rest assured, we will not intentionally put anything in any kit that would compromise the structural strength of the completed model. Since most models are covered with an opaque covering material, this will never be seen in the finished kit. Key to Abbreviations ELE - Elevator LE - Leading Edge Fuse - Fuselage TE - Trailing Edge STAB - Stabilizer PLY - Plywood LG - Landing Gear MM - Motor Mount - Inches CA - Cyanoacrylate Adhesive

4 Wood Identification Thick CA - Thick CA will be your general purpose adhesive for building this or any other model. You can use it practically anywhere in the assembly of this model. It is especially useful for filling small gaps and making fillets on important joints. Curing time on this adhesive will be 20 to 45 seconds depending upon the thickness of the glue fillet. Balsa Plywood CA Gel - Almost like an epoxy, CA Gel can be used where more time is needed to align parts or sliding a part in place. It will fill even large gaps and is perfect for making larger glue fillets on important high strength areas like firewalls, landing gear blocks, dihedral braces, and wing joints. It is a silica filled CA and sands easily. Accelerator - Accelerator products will cause almost instant curing of all CA products. Use accelerator sparingly. You just will need a slight mist. Accelerator can be sprayed on one part with the CA adhesive on the other. When the parts are joined, almost instant bonding will take place. Do not use it with Thin CA as extremely rapid curing (boiling) can take place. Using CAs Safely Adhesives If Balsa USA Gold CA products are used for the construction of this model, no other adhesives will be necessary. If another CA product is used for the construction, we recommend the use of epoxy for the dihedral braces, attaching the firewall, and landing gear blocks. Thin CA - Thin CA is used primarily for tacking parts together. It is normally followed with Thick CA to bridge any gaps and to make a fillet of glue for maximum bonding strength. Because Thin CA has the viscosity (thickness) of water, it will wick into the wood and will flow into a joint. This will work even when the joint is held tightly together. Curing time is approximately 5 seconds. Sooner or later you are bound to glue your fingers together when using CAs. When this happens, it is very important not to panic. It is not difficult to remove cured CA from the skin or to part bonded skin. When this happens, it is best to use Balsa USA Un- Stik-It debonder to dissolve the cured CA. If this is not available, you can also use an acetone based fingernail polish remover. It will take longer, but it will work well. Don t try to pry or pull bonded skin apart! Gently roll the bonded area back and forth while applying debonder. After a minute or two, the glue will be dissolved and your fingers will come apart. Cured CA will not stick to skin for a long period of time. After a day or two the natural oils in the skin will cause the cured CA to be parted from the skin. As with all chemical products, read the bottle labels carefully before use and follow the instructions. All CA adhesives are eye irritants and will bond skin in seconds. Use them only with adequate ventilation. In case of eye contact wash with plenty of warm water and seek immediate medical assistance. DO NOT TRY TO PULL BONDED SKIN APART! Keep all CA products out of reach of children. Metric Conversion Scale

5 Key to Die Cut Parts Fuse Sides (2) Balsa Sheets Required - 1/8 x 3-5/8 x 39 Wing Tip TE Trailing Edge Wing Tip TE (4) Balsa Sheets Required - 1/8 x 3 x 30 Rear Dihedral Brace Front Dihedral Brace F-2 F-3 F-4 F-2A (1) Lite-Ply - 1/8 x 3-3/8 x 9-1/4 (1) Lite-Ply Sheet - 1/8 x 4 x 12 Front Deck Sheeting Front Cockpit Sheeting Rear Cockpit Sheeting Birch Plywood - 1/64 x 7-1/2 x 9 (1) Birch Plywood x 7-1/2 x 11 W-4 Center Rib W-5 W-3 (2) Balsa Sheet - 1/8 x 3 x 21

6 Key to Die Cut Parts Main Rib W-2 Main Half Rib Main Rib W-2 Main Half Rib Leading Edge Corners (6) Balsa Sheet - 1/8 x 3 x 12 W-6 W-6 Aft Deck Former W-6 Aft Deck Former Aft Deck Former F-3C F-2B (1) Balsa Sheet - 1/8 x 3 x 21 Tip Half Rib Tip Half Rib F-3A Tip Half Rib Tip Gusset (2) Balsa Sheet - 1/8 x 3 x 14 Fuse Doubler (2) Lite-Ply - 1/8 x 3-1/8 x 9-1/2

7 Wing Construction Starts Here The Taube wings look difficult to build at first glance, but the way the model is designed, they will go together quite easily. It will just be a little different compared to the models you have previously built. So don t worry about it! Let s get started. We will be building both wing panels at the same time and joining them later. PHOTO 1 PHOTO 3 5.) Remove (4) diecut trailing edge (TE) pieces and laminate (2) sets of each of the TE pieces together. 6.) Repeat this procedure using two sets of wingtip pieces on each side. 7.) Sand the outside edges of all the laminated parts to remove any bumps of adhesive. PHOTO 4 1.) Start by covering the plan with wax paper or Saran Wrap. 2.) Cut the lower forward 1/4 x 3/8 x 24 balsa spars to length. Note that they end just inside of the second tip rib. Pin the spars in place on both right and left panels. 3.) Cut both 1/4 x 1/4 x 24 back spars to length. Note that they also end just inside of the second tip rib. Pin them in place. 8.) Locate the TE using two main W-2 ribs as shown above. Use a Square or triangle to make sure the ribs are vertical. Glue them to the main spar and the trailing edge, but not to the rear spar yet. Do both panels, but do not glue anything together at the center of the wings. PHOTO 5 PHOTO 2 4.) Use the hardest of the 1/4 x 3/8 x 30 for the lower tip spar. Cut it to fit and pin in place. Taper it from about 2-1/2 at the tip as shown in the wingtip spars view on the plans. Glue it in place where it touches the forward spar. Helpful Hint Almost all models have parts that will need to be laminated together. If you use the following technique you will be able to laminate parts quickly, accurately, and very easily using any CA adhesive. Carefully align the parts together. Pin them together with two pins keeping the pins as vertical as possible. Next, spread the two pieces apart leaving the pins in place. Apply CA to one of the parts and push the two parts back together. The pins will act as line up guides and you will have a perfectly laminated part every time. 9.) Fit the wingtip pieces and glue them in place. PHOTO 6 STEP 1 STEP 2 10) Laminate two double W-2 main ribs together and glue them in place at the last main rib position where the wingtip begins to curve. Glue the rest of the W-2 ribs in place.

8 PHOTO 7 16.) Refer to Photo 10. Fit and glue in place the last two W-4 and W-5 tip ribs and the two false ribs. 11.) Glue all (10) main false ribs in place. PHOTO 11 PHOTO 8 PHOTO ) Glue the two W-1 center ribs in place. PHOTO 9 17.) Locate the four diecut leading edge pieces, two long and two short. The angle is cut on the top of the LE to match the ribs. Cut the angle on the outer end of one of the long LE strips and check the fit with one of the diecut LE corner pieces. When it fits properly, glue the LE to the ribs and laminate the LE corner pieces right in place. PHOTO ) To fit rib W-3, you will have to trim the front and back tip to match the leading edge and trailing edge curvature. Also you will need to trim the spar notches so the spars will fit at the necessary angle. 14.) Fit the false rib on the inside of W-3. Again trim the spar notches so the spar will fit in place as was done in Step ) Fit the false rib on the outside of W-3. Trim the spar notches as done previously. PHOTO ) Cut the angle on the end of one of the short wingtip leading edge s and fit to the laminated LE corner. Glue in place. 19.) Glue the aft (rear) 1/4 square spar in place. PHOTO ) Cut the upper forward 1/4 x 3/8 x 24 spar to length. It ends at the false rib about 2 shorter than the bottom spar. Carve and sand the outer end of the spar from rib W-3 to the false rib and glue in place.

9 PHOTO 19 PHOTO ) Use the 1/4 x 1/4 x 15 for the upper wingtip spar. Cut the angle at the front of the spar so it will fit flush against the back side of the front spar. Trim the rib notches at an angle for the spar so it will fit in place properly. Taper the outer end of the spar as shown in the wingtip spars detail drawing on the plans. When everything fits, glue it in place. PHOTO ) Remove one wing panel from your building board. Block the wing up so it is 1-1/4 high under the double rib as shown above. Sand the upper spars on the wing root lightly (sand a little on each panel) until the spars LE s and TE s fit together at the centerline. Check for proper alignment along the LE and TE to assure that the wing is indeed straight. When assured that it is, glue the spars, leading edges and trailing edges. PHOTO ) Cut the 1/4 x 1/4 x 24 spar so it will fit flush against the wingtip spar and glue in place. PHOTO ) Glue the front part of the three piece center ribs in place. Be sure to center it on the leading edge. PHOTO 21 PHOTO ) Plane or carve the LE corner to match the leading edge. Do the same with the wingtip LE. Shave it down from rib W-5 to the tip, flattening it out until it is flat at the tip. Be careful that you don t break the ribs. 26.) Glue the 1/8 plywood dihedral brace in place to the back side of the forward spars as shown above. The top of this part must be centered on the spars. The top edge should be 3/32 below the spars and level with the ribs on each side. The center section sheeting will sit on top of the dihedral brace and will be flush withe the spar. See Step ) Glue the smaller rear dihedral brace in place exactly the same way. 28.) Glue the other two pieces of the center rib W-6 in place. Be sure to center these up on the dihedral braces.

10 PHOTO 22 PHOTO 25 Tip Line up the dihedral brace and put (2) pins in the spars toward each end. Refer to Photo 22. Apply glue to the brace and move it up against the pins. Slide the dihedral brace in place using the pins for guides. PHOTO ) Glue the two 1/8 x 2 x 4-3/4 plywood wing mounts in place. Be sure the outer ends are flush with the ribs and not above the ribs. Sheet the bottom center section with 3/32 balsa. The bottom is sheeted the same as the top except it only extends to the trailing edge and not over it. PHOTO ) Plane or sand the small filler piece at the center section on top of the wing. Shave it so is blends into the trailing edge. 29.) Use the 3/32 x 3 x 18 to sheet the center section from the forward spar to the leading edge. Cut the sheeting to extend over the rib about 1/4 on the outside. 30.) Sheet the next two pieces of center section using 3/32 x 3 x 12 balsa. Note that the ribs at the trailing edge may have to be sanded down slightly so the sheeting will fit properly. The sheeting must touch the trailing edge along the back edge. Helpful Hint When cutting or sanding a radius on the edges of a fuselage or any long part, (i.e. fins, ailerons, elevators, etc.) do it in two steps as outlined in the drawing below. This will give you a nice even radius all along the part and makes it easy to do. PHOTO 24 PHOTO 27 STEP 1 STEP 2 31.) Cut a piece of 3/32 from the 18 sheet and use it to fill in the trailing edge as shown above. The excess sheeting in the trailing edge cutout will be cut off when the wing is turned over. 32.) Turn the wing over and trim the excess sheeting off around the trailing edge cutout. 35.) Some of the ribs are longer than the TE. Block sand them until they are all the same length and fit like shown above. Sand the trailing edge round.

11 Stabilizer Construction: PHOTO 28 PHOTO 31 1.) Cut the 1/4 x 5/8 balsa strips to length. Note that both ends of these pieces need to be cut and an angle. Pin them in place. 2.) Cut the 1/4 x 1/2 trailing edge to fit and pin it in place. Use the 24 long piece supplied. 3.) Cut the two shorter pieces of 1/4 x 1/2 balsa and glue them in place. 7.) Use a piece of 1/8 x 1/4 as a spline or curve template. Lay one end against the spruce LE and bend it as necessary to give a curve from the spruce to a point 1/8 wide at the front end of the stab. Do both sides and then trim the excess off to your lines. 8.) Very carefully block sand the stab on both the top and bottom. Round the spruce LE and cut the round cutout for the rudder connector. Fuselage Construction: PHOTO 32 PHOTO 29 4.) Notch the 1/4 x 5/8 balsa strip for the 1/4 x 1/4 spruce leading edges. Use three or four pins along the outside of the LE to hold the curve in place. Glue the LE s in place. 1.) Pin one diecut fuse side in place over the plans. Line it up carefully. Not that there are marks on the plan above and below the fuse side view. These are the former location marks. Mark #1 & #2 are for the firewall. Use a straight edge as shown above from the center mark #2 to draw a line on the fuse side. This is the front edge of former F-2, the back edge of the firewall, and the front edge of the 1/8 lite-ply doubler. PHOTO 33 PHOTO 30 5.) Cut and glue in place the 1/4 square on the center line of the stab. Then add the 1/8 x 1/4 ribs and the 1/8 x 1/4 diagonals and cross braces. 6.) Cut the (4) gussets at the trailing edge from scrap 1/8 balsa. There should be plenty from the diecut sheets. Cut the two 1/4 sheet gussets and glue them in place. 2.) Pin the other fuse side directly above the first upside down. Take care to line it up perfectly. Use a straight edge to transfer all the former location lines. This will give you a right and a left fuse side.

12 PHOTO 34 PHOTO 37 3.) On former F-4, be sure to mark both lines. 4.) Use a 1/4 stick as a spacer and move the second fuse side further above the other. This is done just so you don t accidentally glue both fuse sides together. PHOTO 35 7.) Cut the 1/4 x 1/4 x 24 to length and pin in place. This goes below the stab slot from the back of former F-4 to the 1/4 square tailpost. Fill in the space as shown above with a piece of 1/4 x 1/4 stock between the strip and top longeron from the back of former F-4 to the front of the stab cutout. PHOTO 38 5.) On the first fuse side, pin down the upper part of the fuse side just above the stab cutout. Make sure it lines up right over the plan exactly in place. Sometimes due to stress in the wood relieved after diecutting, this may be drooped down a bit. Move it where ever necessary so it fits the plans. Place a 1/4 stick in the slot. Now pin the bottom part of the fuse so the stab slot will be a perfect 1/4 from front to back the full length. Repeat this step for the other fuse half. When both halves are pinned down you can remove the 1/4 spacers. 8.) Fit and glue the 1/8 lite-ply doublers in place. The front edge will be right on the line. PHOTO 39 PHOTO 36 6.) Cut the 1/4 x 1/2 x 36 upper longerons to length and pin them in place. This runs from the front line drawn up by the firewall, ahead of former F-2 to the tailpost. From now until assembling the fuse sides together, perform all steps for both fuse sides. 9.) Cut to length and glue in place the 1/4 x 3/8 lower longerons and the (4) 1/4 square uprights. The lower longeron ends at the 1/4 square tailpost. The uprights are positioned using the locating marks on the plan as was done for the formers. Keep America Beautiful - Fly Balsa USA Kits

13 PHOTO 43 PHOTO ) Refer to Photo 40. Mark the centers on the tops of formers F-2, F-3, and F-4. Note that F-2 is marked at the top of the upper longeron. PHOTO 41 PHOTO 44 PHOTO ) Taper the upper and lower longerons and the 1/4 square strip as shown above and on the top view of the fuselage plan. Leave 1/8 on each side at the very back end of the fuse so the 1/4 tailpost will fit between the fuse sides. PHOTO ) Move the plans so former F-2 will be over the edge of the building board as shown in Photo 42. Line former F-4 up and pin the fuse sides down to the board right at former F-4. Be sure your center mark on F-4 is lined up with the fuselage plan centerline. 12.) Fit former F-3 in place the same way. Note on the side view that it is just behind the landing gear cutout on the fuse bottom and just ahead of the cutout on the top. 13.) Put a rubber band or a couple of strips of masking tape around the nose and tail of the model to help hold everything together. Check the alignment on the plan centerline again. Then use 3 or 4 drops of CA on each former to tack glue them in place. 14.) Refer to Photo 43. Put enough rubber bands or strips of masking tape around the nose to hold it together and position former F-2 in place. Be sure it is flush with the front edge of the diecut fuse doublers and is positioned accurately over the centerline. When satisfied, glue it in place. 16.) When the tail fits together properly, glue it together. Note that we pinned two ends from a diecut sheet to the building board to act like a jig to hold the assembly together accurately over the centerline. PHOTO ) Cut to fit and glue in place the (3) 1/4 square cross pieces in line with the fuse side uprights.

14 PHOTO ) Cut the 3/8 x 3/4 hardwood landing gear block to length and glue in place. Note that it will be 1/8 higher than the fuse sides. 19.) Block sand the fuse bottom to give the bottom sheeting a nice flat surface to glue PHOTO ) Use the 1/8 x 3 x 30 balsa to sheet the bottom of the fuse from the LG block aft. Use the 1/8 x 3 x 10 to sheet from the LG block forward. Sheet this forward portion of the fuse running the sheeting cross grain across the fuselage. 21.) Block sand the bottom at the LG block and all the forward glue joints. 22.) Remove the fuse from the board and trim off the excess bottom sheeting. Block sand the trimmed portions so they are flush and clean with the sides. Cut the 1/4 square opening at the rear of the fuselage for the tailpost. PHOTO 49 PHOTO ) Glue the top half of former F-4 in place. Be sure it is centered and vertical and not slanted forward. 25.) Measure from former F-4 to the center of the two birch ply wing mounts. These dimensions should be about 1-1/2 to the center of the rear mount and 9-1/4 to the center of the front mount. Mark the centers and also put a vertical centerline on former F ) Block sand the wing saddle to even this area out so the wing will sit nice and flush on this surface. Be careful not to remove much material. You just want to smooth the saddle. PHOTO ) Glue the two 1 long landing gear support blocks in place. Note that the groove goes against the plywood fuse doubler. Check the photo and be sure that one has the groove towards the rear and the other with the groove toward the front of the model. PHOTO ) Fit the two 1/4 x 3/4 birch plywood wing mounts in place. The shorter one goes to the front. If they are too tight, sand the ends until you have a snug fit. The aft mount goes 1 in front of former F-4. When positioned, glue them in place. 28.) Set the wing in place. Line up the center of the trailing edge with the centerline mark you made on former F-4 and pin the wing down at the TE. Now measure from former F-4 and mark the wing with the two dimensions you calculated from Step 25. These will be for the wing bolt locations.

15 PHOTO 55 PHOTO ) Measure from a point at the junction of the aft spar and the wingtip spar to the center of the tail of the fuselage as shown above. Do this on both sides of the wing and adjust the wing until both measurements are exactly the same. When the measurements are the same, the wing will be square with the fuselage. Pin or tape the leading edge so the wing cannot move. PHOTO ) Measure forward from former F-4A and mark the wing centerline at 4-1/4, 4-3/8, and 4-1/2. These will be the locations of formers F-3A. PHOTO ) Take a corner off one of the diecut sheets and use it to cut an angle template. Use the side view to get the proper angle on liteply former F-2A. Pin in place and glue F-2A in place to the fuselage only. Be sure to center it up. It should be about 1/16 inside the fuse sides on each side. If it isn t, sand it until it is. The reason for this adjustment is that when you built the fuse on this model fuse sides have to bend in two directions because of the shape of the fuselage itself. Different sheets of balsa may bend differently. This may require you to adjust the formers slightly for a perfect fit in this location. 34.) Laminate the (2) formers F-3A together. Mark the center on the bottom of the pieces and glue the formers on the fuselage on the centerline of the wing at the marks you made in the previous step. Use a square behind the formers as shown above. 35.) Fit former F-3C and glue it in place to the wing only. This former is cut slightly oversize to accommodate building variations. Sand it as necessary until it is 1/64 to 1/32 smaller all around than former F4A behind it. PHOTO ) Plane or sand the proper angle on the bottom of former F-2B so it fits the wing leading edge. It should match former F-2A. If it doesn t, sand it as you did in the previous step until it does. Work a scrap of wax paper between the wing and former F-2A on each side. Pin former F-2B in place and glue it to the wing only. 32.) Refer to Step 28 and drill through the wing and the plywood wing mounts at the marks you made earlier. When you drill the holes, drill them 1/2 off of the wing centerline. Drill one 1/2 to the right of center and one 1/2 to the left of center. The plywood mounts will be tapped for a 1/4 x 20 bolt later in the construction. You can use the proper bit for the tapped hole or select a smaller bit for this step and just drill two pilot holes. 36.) Using corners off the diecut sheets again, cut (3) gussets as shown above to assure the formers will not move when the wing is removed and the cockpit area is subsequently sheeted with the 1/64 plywood.

16 37.) Draw a vertical centerline on the 1/4 plywood firewall. Draw a horizontal (thrust) line 1-3/4 up from the bottom edge of the firewall. Line up the engine mount you have chosen using these lines and drill the mounting holes. 38.) Remove the mount and drill out the motor mount holes with a 5/32 drill bit. Press four 4-40 PHOTO 58 blind nuts in place. Be sure to glue the back sides of the blind nuts using a few drops of thick CA or epoxy so they can t back out of the holes. Take care not to get any glue in the threads. 39.) If necessary, sand the sides of the firewall until it drops into place in the fuselage. When it does, glue it in place. On some models it isn t unusual for the firewall to be slightly above the fuse side because of the odd shape of the fuse. This will not present a problem. 40.) Fit your engine and fuel tank, then drill whatever holes necessary in the firewall for the fuel lines to pass. PHOTO ) Use a straight edge to draw a line on the wing from former F-3A forward about 4. Be sure the front of the straight edge is lined up with the edge of former F-2B. Do this on both sides of the formers as shown. PHOTO 62 PHOTO ) Mount the servos in the fuselage wing opening. We recommend using the servo trays made for your radio equipment. An Airtronics installation is shown above. Use the 1/4 x 3/8 x 12 basswood supplied for servo rails. Fit the throttle pushrod as shown above. Use a solder link at the servo end and a nylon link on the throttle arm on the carburetor. Depending upon which engine you decide to use, you may have to adjust the pushrod up or down so it will line up with the throttle arm. We had to put a Z bend in the pushrod to raise it slightly for the proper height. PHOTO ) Cut the 1/8 x 1/8 x 30 balsa strip to fit between formers F- 3A and F-3C as shown above. Be sure the strip is flush with the outside edge of the formers. This will be used as a gluing strip for the top deck sheeting later in construction. 45.) Cut two pieces of the 1/8 square balsa 4 long and glue them from former F-3A forward on the line you drew in step 43. PHOTO ) Use the 3/16 x 3/16 x 18 between formers F-3C, F-3A, and F-2B as shown above. Fit these pieces carefully as you don t want to push formers F-3C and F-2B out of alignment. 46.) Fit a piece of 3/16 square balsa between the tops of formers F-2 and F-2A. Add the 1/8 square gluing strips between the formers on the tops of the fuse sides as pointed out above. 47.) Double check the fit of the wing to the fuselage wing saddle. Check and make sure that none of the formers have moved out of place.

17 PHOTO ) This is going to be a tough step. Use a nickel to draw a circle around the wing bolt holes. Now cut the wing sheeting out to the lines to allow the wing bolts to pass through. PHOTO 65 PHOTO ) Holding the sheeting in place, place a pin both fore and aft through the sheeting and into the formers on the center of the model. (We will use the laminating technique as has been done several times before to aid in this step.) Lift the sheeting up slightly leaving the pins in place. Apply a small bead of thick CA to the 3/16 square strips where the sheeting will touch, but stop short of the formers by about 1/4. Push the sheeting down on the pins, wrap it around the formers and hold it against the 3/16 gluing strips until the CA cures. It is important that you bend the sheeting around the formers. If you just push it down without bending it around the formers you will form a hump on each side of the centerline in the sheeting. 49.) Sand just the back facing side of the laminated F-3A formers at the angle shown above so the top deck sheeting will lay flat against it. Now, sand the front facing side of the laminated F-3A former at a slight angle so it will match up with former F-2B. PHOTO ) Fit the diecut 1/64 plywood forward top deck sheeting in place. You will have to let the leading edge of the wing hang over the building board so the forward portion of the deck will clear. There will be some overhang on the front of the deck sheeting. Trim as necessary so the deck sheeting fits both the wing and fits snug around both formers. When satisfied with the fit, hold the sheeting in place and draw a line on the sheeting around former F- 3A at the aft end. Place another line 1/8 forward of the line you just marked on the sheeting. Using a scissors, cut the sheeting along the new line so it will end at the back edge of the forward part of the former F-3A laminate. Leave the aft portion of the laminated former uncovered so there will be room for the rear cockpit sheeting. PHOTO ) Finish gluing the sheeting in place. It is easier to glue down one side at a time. When finished, carefully trim the front of the sheeting and block sand it flush with the front former. CAUTION: Sand only using downward strokes from the plywood down to the former. If you sand using an up stroke you will delaminate the plywood on the edges. PHOTO 69

18 53.) Refer to Photo 69. Trim and fit the aft cockpit sheeting. This sheet is cut oversize intentionally on the bottom sides and in the back so there will be plenty of room to trim it for your model. When trimming the bottom edges, use a straight edge and hobby knife to make the trim cuts. Trim both sides a little at a time to keep the cockpit centered and in line with the front cockpit opening. 54.) When the sheeting fits properly, glue it in place using the same technique as described in step 52. Trim and sand the sheeting so it is flush with the rear former. 55.) Cut out the 3/16 gluing strips from the cockpit opening and carefully sand the center joint. Remember the plywood is only 1-64 thick so don t get carried away or there will be a hole! PHOTO ) Drill out the plywood wing mounts in the fuselage using a 3/16 bit then tap the hole using a 1/4-20 tap. When finished run some thin CA in the tapped hole, let it cure and tap the hole again. This will give you a much stronger thread and one that won t easily strip out. 57.) Drill out the wing bolt holes using a 1/4 bit so the bolts will easily pass through. AFT DECK CONSTRUCTION: PHOTO 72 1.) There are (3) aft deck formers. Glue the largest one to the back side of former F-4A. 2.) Measure back 4-5/8 and glue the next largest one in place. The last deck former is diecut into two pieces. 3.) Cut a 1/4 square balsa cross piece and glue it in place about 1 behind the last former. Slide a piece of 1/4 stock into the stabilizer slot to keep the slot 1/4 wide during the rest of the construction. PHOTO 73 PHOTO 74 PHOTO ) With the wing in place on the model, fit the diecut 1/64 plywood forward deck sheeting using the same techniques as was used for the wing top deck sheeting. When it is positioned properly, tack glue it in place - in positions away from the wing itself so you don t accidentally glue the wing in place! Remove the wing and finish gluing in place. 59.) Bolt the wing in place again and sand the deck sheeting if there are any high spots at the wing/fuse joint. If you have to sand, be careful so you only sand through the first layer of plywood. There will be about 1/8 over hang past former F-2. You can trim this off or just leave it as is. If you wish to add the small rounded fairing as shown on the plans, cut it from scrap 1/64 ply left over from the diecut top deck sheeting. Glue a backing strip of 1/64 plywood under the deck sheet to secure it. 60.) Sand the fuselage sides to fair into the forward deck sheeting. 61.) Sand former F-4A until it s flush with the aft deck sheeting. 4.) Pin the upper fin in place. Be sure it is centered at both ends and located 1/4 in from the end of the fuselage sides so when the 1/4 square tailpost is glued in place it will be flush with the end of the fuselage. Bolt the wing in place and measure from the leading edge (just before the LE corner) to your board. Shim the fuselage until the wing is level with your board. The dimension will be the same on both sides. Then use a square to get the fin verticals shown in Photo 73. We pinned a scrap stick of balsa from the top of the fin to the board to help keep it vertical while gluing it in place.

19 5.) Measure back 4-5/8 from the second aft deck former and glue the two piece former in place on each side of the fin. 10.) Taper the block to the line on the PHOTO 79 bottom. Then carve and sand to the quarter round shape as shown in Photo 79. Be sure to match it to the points on the 3/16 stringers. 11.) Glue the blocks in place on the fuselage sides. Use a block plane or sand the bottom corners of the fuselage round. Use the diagram on the plans - Typical Fuselage Section, to see how much material needs to be removed. PHOTO 75 6.) Cut and glue in place the 3/16 x 1/4 x 6 balsa strip from former F-4A to the fin. Make sure it is centered on the fin. 7.) Cut to length and glue a 3/16 x 3/16 x 10 balsa strip right alongside the 3/16 x 1/4 piece. This piece will extend to the last top deck former. PHOTO 76 PHOTO 80 8.) Cut the remaining 3/16 stringers to length and glue them in place. PHOTO 81 Fit the 1/4 square tailpost in place and glue it to both the vertical fin and the fuselage. Be sure the 1/4 spacer is in the stab slot! After the glue has cured, remove the 1/4 spacer. Be sure to save the other 1/4 x 1/4 x 10 piece for the rudder post. PHOTO 77 PHOTO 78 9.) Put one of the tail blocks in place and mark it on the bottom along the side of the fuselage. Refer to Photo 78 and mark the front of the block at the 3/16 rear deck stringers. PHOTO ) Locate the pre-cut 1/4 sub-fin. Fit and sand the outer edge to rough shape and glue it in place. 14.) Trim the tail post off to match the fins and sand the ends to the same radius. 15.) Sand the LE of the upper fin round. You will probably have to trim a little material off at the front end so it will be flush with the center stringer.

20 PHOTO 83 Finishing the Model 1.) Refer to the tip on installing control horns. Mount the elevator and rudder control horns. Note that they should be on opposite sides of the model so they won t touch into each other when the model is finished. PHOTO ) Pin the 1/4 x 1/4 x 10 rudder post in place over the plans. Sand the outside edges of the rudders round except where they will be glued to the rudder post. If you wish, you can also radius the aft corners slightly so they will be easier to cover. 17.) Glue the rudders to the rudder post. Trim and sand the ends using the plans as a reference. Round the rudder post so it can be hinged later. Hinging Tip An easy to way to mark the center line on the elevator or mark a line parallel from any edge for that matter, is to use this tried and true technique. Use your third finger as a guide keeping your other fingers and your hand stiff. You will be able to hold the pen this way very steady and it won t move up and down. With a little practice you will be able to draw a straight line every time. 18.) Hinge the rudders to the tail post. 19.) Radius both the TE of the stabilizer and the LE of the elevator then hinge them together. We recommend not to gluing the hinges in place until after the model is covered. PHOTO 85 2.) Check over the fuselage and stabilizer and do any final sanding necessary before gluing the stab in place. We suggest that you fit the stab at this time, but do not glue it in place until after the model is covered. It is easier to cover the stab and fuselage while they are separate and you will be able to do a much better job of covering. 3.) Cut the pushrod outlet holes at the locations shown on the plans. Be sure to line them up with the control horns so they will exit in a nice straight line to the control horn. PHOTO 86 Tip 4.) Cut the two nose doublers from the 1/8 x 3 x 7 sheet stock and glue them in place. The proper way to mount a control is so the holes in the horn line up with the center of the hinge line as shown in the drawing above.

21 PHOTO 87 PHOTO 90 5.) Fit and glue in place the 1/8 balsa nose piece. PHOTO ) Bend the 3/32 music wire tail skid to shape as shown on the plan. Drill the sub-fin with a 3/32 drill bit and glue the wire in place. It is a good idea to add a strip of fiberglass cloth (not supplied) over the wire to reinforce it to the sub-fin. PHOTO 91 Radio Installation Photo 6.) Notch the upper longeron so you can run a 5/32 drill bit through the landing gear blocks and out the bottom. If you don t have a drill bit long enough to do this, the blocks can be drilled out from the bottom. Be careful drilling so the drill runs straight otherwise you may drill through the side of the fuselage. PHOTO 89 7.) Fit the landing gear in place. You will have to cut out the corners of the LG blocks to clear the radius in the bend of the wire. 8.) Secure the LG wires with two landing gear straps. Use the #4 x 3/8 sheet metal screws provided in the hardware package. Place the straps just inside each side where the wire goes into the LG blocks. 9.) Remove all the servos and run the pushrods. 10.) The TE of the wing and elevator can be scalloped as shown on the drawing if this desired at this time. 11.) The wing s trailing edge can be tapered if this is desired. We just rounded the TE slightly so it would be easier to cover. If you do taper the TE, do not remove any material past the first lamination of balsa. 12.) Before covering and/or painting, go over the entire model and dress sand it with 220 grit paper and progress to 320 grit paper. Use a no-load paper such as 3M s Tri-M-Ite grey paper. 14.) Complete the radio installation in the model. Refer to Photo 91 as a typical installation. On our model the receiver battery is installed ahead of former F-2 under the fuel tank. 15.) The model is now ready to be covered with your favorite covering material. 16.) After covering, you can add the 1/8 dowel tail braces if desired. Be sure to paint them before gluing them in place. Also it is a good idea to fuel proof the firewall and the rest of the engine compartment. When this is complete you can remount the engine and attach the throttle linkage. Balancing the Model This is critically important, do not omit this step. The model should balance at the CG location shown on the plans. This position is 3-3/4 behind the leading edge at the center of the wing. Checking Your Model for Warps Even though you have been careful and have built your model on a flat building board, it is still possible that you may have put a warp in the wing or stabilizer during the covering process. Primarily this can be due to the uneven shrinking of the covering material. This is extremely important that you check and make sure that your model is straight and true. Sight down the wings and stab at the TE to make sure they are straight. A good way to check the wings is to view them from the tail of the model. This way you will be able to compare the right and left panels to see if there are any warps. To remove the warps, twist the wing in opposite direction and apply heat to re-shrink the covering. Repeat this as necessary to remove any warps or twists.

22 Control Surface Throws: Elevator - 1/2 Up and Down Rudder - 1-3/4 Right and Left full power quickly. The Taube will accelerate quickly to flying speed. The tail will come up by itself and when it does, hold just a small amount of elevator pressure on the stick. When the model is ready to fly it will just rise off the ground. No need to try and rotate it. Keep your climb shallow and let it get to a decent altitude before your first turn. Be sure to make the turn away from the flight line. The time it will take to get used to flying the Taube won t take very long at all. It is just to easy and to much fun to fly. For landing, just line the model up with the center line of the runway and reduce the power to idle. Only a slight amount of elevator back pressure on the stick will be necessary to establish the glide. The Taube will come in steady and true without any tendency to drop a wing. After a few landings you will find that it will almost land itself. Pre-Flight and Flying Now we are finally getting to the good part! You will find that the Taube 40 will be one of the easiest and most relaxing models that you have flown in a long time. However, before we get down to the flying you need to go over your model one last time to make sure that everything is as it should be. Here is a short check list for you to go through before the first flight. 1.) Check all servos to assure that the servo arm screws are in place and have been tightened properly. Servos and the trays should be securely fastened. 2.) Check all servo and pushrod linkages. All kwik-links should be tight. There should be no slop of any kind in any of the pushrods. 3.) Check the engine throttle connection and the fuel lines for holes. Double check the engine mounting bolts and the engine mount bolts on the firewall to make sure they are tight. Check every one! 4.) Check the prop and spinner (if one is used) to make sure the prop is not only tight, but is also in the correct position. 5.) Check the wings and tail for any warps. 6.) The transmitter and receiver batteries should be freshly charged. 7.) Range check the radio for proper operation. Refer to the radio manufacturer's instructions for their recommended technique and distance required for safe operation. Get a friend to help you with this so you can be assured of proper operation of the controls. 8.) Range check the radio again with the engine running and at different throttle settings. Again, get a friend to help with this. If you encounter any problems whatsoever - DO NOT ATTEMPT TO FLY THE MODEL! Find and correct any problems first. Any radio problem discovered on the ground will not improve in the air, they will just get worse. We really hope that you have enjoyed building your Taube and that it will give you many enjoyable flights for a long time to come. Thanks again for purchasing our products. BALSA USA From the first flight, you will find that the Taube is a very gentle flyer that anyone who has successfully flown a trainer will be able to handle easily. The Taube has no real bad habits, you don t have to worry about tip stalls or high landing speeds. Get used to graceful slow flight and lazy aerobatics. Just the fun stuff. For the first flight, add the power slowly, don t jam the throttle to