Slatyfork Sawmill Interior

Transcription

1 R.L.W. History Empty sawmills are lonely places. This kit includes all the machinery and basic details needed to deck out the Slatyfork Sawmill main floor and sawfiler's area. Instructions Read the instructions completely and study the photos and drawings before starting construction! Warranty All R.L.W. products are guaranteed against defects in manufacturing and will be replaced or repaired as determined by R.L.W. after inspection of the part. Contact R.L.W for a return authorization prior to returning any damaged parts. R.L.W will also replace parts that are damaged during assembly. This part of the warranty is voided if the kit has been modified in any way. Drop Outs The laser-cut sheets may look like pieces are missing, but these holes are intentional. These waste pieces, called drop outs, may still be clinging to the sheet and fall out when touched. Save them for use as clutter and scraps when doing the final detailing. McCabe Lumber Co. Slatyfork Sawmill Interior #28301 N Scale Remove the pieces from the carrier sheets with a sharp hobby knife as they are needed, and lightly sand off the remainder of the tabs. On the thicker pieces there is a slight draft angle caused by the laser. This angle can be removed with a pass or two of a fine sanding block. Identify all the parts, checking them against the parts list. Most wood parts have a number either on them or nearby. Extra small parts may be included. Do not remove the parts from the carrier yet! Repetitive Steps Every different procedure or method is discussed in detail in the instructions; however, once it has been discussed, it is not repeated in detail again. Dimensions and Directions All dimensions specified in the text are actual feet and inches unless used with the word scale before or after them. Atmospheric Conditions Wood and paper products are effectively live materials on which humidity and temperature changes will change the size of parts slightly.

2 McCabe Lumber Company End User Information This kit is not intended for use by novice modelers, or individuals under the age of 18 without the supervision of an adult. Additionally, the modeler assumes all liability regarding the proper use of this product or any product suggested. The user must become familiar with the kit instructions, and instructions on any product used to complete this kit. Please read and follow all safety procedures for all products used to finish this kit. Details may vary between scales and from the sample model shown. Color Pallet The basic colors are from the Floquil railroad colors line except as noted. You may follow our suggested pallet: Coach Green Stainless Steel Rust Reefer Gray Rail Tie Brown Caboose Red Aged Concrete Antique White Earth Grimy Black Woodland Scenics' Mini-Scene Paint Set Naturally, you may use any colors you wish. Just remember that flat, dull colors are preferable to loud bright colors for a realistically-finished model. Some colors apparent in the photos are mixtures of two or more of the basic colors. These mixtures are used only on detail items and are not critical. On the model, Coach Green was used on the machinery. The blades, rollers and outer surfaces of the wheels were painted Stainless Steel. Reefer Gray was used on the wood components. Control levers are painted Caboose Red with Grimy Black handles. Most parts can be painted prior to assembly and most should be painted prior to removing from the carrier sheet. Since excess paint can cause warping, use small amounts and paint both sides. In addition, the parts should be airbrushed lightly with the base color rather than painted with a brush; this will reduce the opportunity for it to warp out of shape. A light base coat can be applied using a spray can if an airbrush is not available. Placing under a flat weight will also reduce warping. Please, wear rubber gloves and a paint mask when dealing with model paints, and work in a well-vented area. Some of the solvents are not user-friendly! Wood Grain and Color Wood grain is just one of several items that is well worth the time necessary to apply it and gives a proper look and feel to a wood structure. It will look better if the wood grain goes on after the initial base color coat. The addition of wood grain will also make the nail holes on a given wall less prominent. Please remember that wood grain should 2 only be applied to parts representing wood on the finished model. 1. Use a sharp hobby knife to apply the wood grain. 2. Add two to three lines of wood grain per laser-cut board or laser-scored board. Do this by beginning at the end of a scale board and working to the other end in one continuous line. Do not try to make these lines straight, but rather just try to stay on that board. Slight waviness is exactly the result you will want. 3. Trim the ends of some boards shorter than others and carve away some of the material between boards. A base coloration of thinned light tan, such as Earth, is used for all of the wooden components in this kit not specified to be a specific color. Some folks think it is necessary to sand the black edges off of all of the laser-cut parts. Not true. If you follow the suggested painting techniques, you will not have to spend time sanding all the edges of parts before assembly. Laser-cut edges can be base-colored with Antique White prior to applying a light color. This will easily hide any burned edges. Weathering The gray weathering wash formula used is based on experience with laser-cut components and castings, and should be applied after all the paint work is done. Too dark a formula of weathering stain against a relatively-light finish coat will tend to overemphasize laser-engraved nail holes. You may wish to try this weathering wash formula: Obtain a one ounce empty bottle. Fill your bottle about 3/4 full with denatured alcohol. Add about 30 drops of India ink and mix well. This Alcohol & India Ink (A&I) wash will be used on the details of this kit. If it needs to be slightly darkened, just add more ink. However, it is a good practice to re-wash an object rather than use a wash which might be too dark. This wash should be used on all of the castings after painting them, and after final placement to mute the colors realistically. When first applied, it will look terrible, but let it dry before passing final judgement. The second wash is a reddish-brown mixture. Using the same procedure listed above, simply substitute brown shoe dye for the India ink to create an Alcohol & Dye (A&D) wash. It can be used on all castings also. An alternate method for final weathering is to use powdered chalks. You will also need a 1 wide soft brush. Never use this brush for anything other than chalk work. And never wash this brush! Use your brush to dust all exterior surfaces of the model. Brush and blow off excess

3 chalk. Practice on scraps prior to dusting the model. The proper effect will dust the model slightly and will enhance the details of the model. Castings The castings in our kits are made most often of metal. However, they may also be injection-molded styrene or coldcast urethane. These latter two types of parts must be washed with warm soapy water instead of lacquer thinner. It is also very important to thoroughly rinse them after washing them. Urethane parts may be sanded and filed easily, but the dust should not be inhaled! Paint all styrene parts with Barrier before painting them with other Floquil paints. Urethane parts may be directly painted with Floquil paints. Several alloys are used to produce metal parts for our kits. All the metal parts should be handled with care as denting and breakage may occur if they are dropped. WARNING: The metal castings in this kit may contain very minute levels of lead. Most of the castings in this kit are now 99.5% or more lead free. But to be on the safe side, keep all parts away from pets and small children, don t lick your fingers while building this kit, and always wash your hands after handling the castings!. Cleaning the metal castings is quite easy. Several jewelers files and a sharp hobby knife work well for this procedure. After you have completed the initial cleanup of parting lines, sprues and flash, wash all the castings in lacquer thinner, or denatured alcohol, and allow them to dry. Handle these after washing by wearing gloves to avoid getting them contaminated with the oils from your hands. Sometimes the metal castings in the scene were treated with Blacken-It according to the product instructions. The chemical reaction between the Blacken-It and the metal creates a very realistic weathered-metal finish. Additionally, all metal castings can be treated in this manner to provide greater paint adhesion. Painting the castings is quite easy and can be accomplished with a brush or airbrush. A good base coat will be created by airbrushing your castings with Floquil Earth or light gray paint. Krylon gray primer in a spray can works well as an alternative to an airbrush. Choose relatively dull colors for your castings. Models tend to look more realistic using shades such as Mud, Grimy Black, etc. by Floquil, or similar dull shades. Rarely should you consider using bright colors in model scenes. The Woodland Scenics water-base colors work well for this. Tools Required for Assembly Tools required for this kit: Hobby knife and sharp blades (we buy surgical blades from the pharmacy - very sharp RLW 3 and extremely thin), sanding block/emery boards, metal straight edge/hobby scale, glues (ACC, Titebond wood cement, Elmers White Glue, JB Weld Epoxy), paints/stains, assorted twist drills and pin vise. Sanding It has been said that sanding is not necessary on a laser-cut kit. This is not true! Proper sanding makes the difference between a kit simply assembled and one that shows the touch of a true master craftsman. While the laser can cut precisely, the amount and types of glue used in assembly can alter the fit. Dressing the edges with a quick pass of the sandpaper will greatly improve the appearance of the finished model. Always keep an assortment of sand papers and emery boards in your tool box. Grits ranging from 200 to 600 will be helpful. Just about all exposed joints need to be dressed with fine sandpaper like 600-grit. This will greatly improve the appearance of the model. Photos In some of the assembly photos, the parts have not been painted. This was intentional to help show off the different pieces easier. In most cases, the photos show the O scale model that has slightly different details from the HO scale version. This will not affect the assembly of the kit. And some photos may show parts assembled slightly out of the recommended order. Gluing Titebond, a brand name of strong wood glue, is used to assemble the large components in this kit. The residue from this glue will have a yellow tint, so be sure to clean up any excess. White glue is used to attach the smaller parts as this glue will dry clear. When applying glue to the smaller parts, it is best to use a toothpick to apply a thin layer of glue to the back of the parts and then press them in place on the structure. Any excess glue can be wiped off with a damp cotton swab. Extra Parts With some small parts, extras are included just in case. Strange Terms and Acronyms N-B-W is a Nut-Bolt-Washer Casting. They are usually made of plastic. ACC is alphacyanoacrylate glue, i.e., superglue. Sprue - The passage through which molten material is introduced into a mold. During casting or molding, the material in the sprue will solidify and needs to be removed from the finished part.

4 McCabe Lumber Company The main machinery components - band saws, edgers, log carriages and tracks, and swing saws - are packaged in plastic bags to help keep things simple. Do not open these until it is time to build and install them. Note: The specific parts list for each of these pieces of machinery is included in the specific section of these instructions. The parts list in the back of the instructions is for the remainder of the kit. The floor of the sawmill may be already installed in the mill, but this will not be a big problem. Since the mill was designed prior to creating this interior kit, there need to be six holes added to the samill floor. Position the cardstock template on the right side of the mill as shown below - looking at the mill from the front - with the front of the template flush with the front corner of the floor and the laser-engraved text facing up. Mark the holes for the edgers and ends of the log carriage track, and the triangular position marks for the ends of the log carriage track. Remove the template, flip it over so the laser-engraved text is now facing down toward the floor, and position it on the left side of the mill. Again, mark the two holes and the triangular position marks for the ends of the log carriage track; ignore the holes for the edgers at this time. Using a #60 drill, drill the inside of the corners of the six holes only - not the triangle marks - and with a hobby knife, remove the material from the holes. There are already two large holes in the floor for the bandsaws. The bandsaws and the transfer will be the key components for positioning the remainder of the parts and should be installed first. Front of Mill 4

5 Transfer The four short transfer frames (A.1) glue into the four leftmost slots in five of the long bases (A.3) with the bases fitting into the notches on the bottom of the frames. Glue the six long transfer frames (A.2) into the rightmost slots of the long bases, and glue the four short bases (A.4) into the notches on the extension of the long transfer frames. Glue the sixth long base (A.3) under the upper section of the frames. The chain well floors (B.9-B.11) glue into the transfer frames as shown in the drawing and photo below. Paint the grooved pulleys with Grimy Black and glue 15 of them into the notches on the tops of the transfer frames. RLW 5 Glue the side rails (B.6-B.8) to the top of the transfer frames as indicated in the drawing and photo on page 6 after sanding an angle on the mating ends to provide a smooth joint. Glue the decks (B.1-B.5) to the top of the transfer frames as shown in the drawing and photo on page 6 after sanding an angle on the mating ends to provide a smooth joint. The edges of the upper and lower decks will need to be sanded where indicated to give a snug fit. When dry, sand the outer edges of the rails flush with the frames. Place, do not yet glue, the transfer into position on the sawmill floor (see the drawing on page 25) and draw a line on the outer short transfer frame at the level of the main sawmill floor. This is the

6 McCabe Lumber Company location of the top of the short roller support (A.15) which should now be glued into place per the drawing on page 5 Touch up the gray paint on the wood parts, then drill the holes clear with a #75 drill and glue three small N-B-Ws into the holes on the short roller support (A.15) and seven large N-B-W into the outside notches on the transfer frames at the ends of the grooved pulleys. Paint the chain wells, the chain, and the dogs (G.8) Grimy Black and allow to dry. Bend the dogs (G.8) into a 'U' shape with the bottom being about 1/32" wide and flat. Glue these onto the chain well floors about three scale feet apart and keep them in line across the transfer. To simulate a continuous chain loop, drape the chain into the 'U' of the dogs, over the center grooved pulleys, and around the grooved pulleys on each end. Glue the chain to the bottom of the end pulleys. Apply a drop of glue to the inside of each open dog and crimp closed around the chain as shown below. Glue the completed transfer into the mill with the upper portion flush against the handrail posts on the main floor and with the lower portion resting on the lower floor and flush against the interior wall (D.12 in the sawmill kit). 6

7 Log Carriages and Tracks The carriage frame is assembled from the two sides (A.1) and the two ends (A.2). Glue the center beams (A.3) into place. Glue the end sheets (D.1) over the carriage ends (A.2) with the bottoms flush. Glue the wheel spacers (D.2) over the axle holes on the sides of the carriage. Glue the carriage deck pieces (B.1-B.3) in place centered on the carriage frame between the notched areas. The seat base (C.7) glues into the scribed area at the back of the carriage. Drill the two holes clear with a #75 drill and glue a N-B-W into each hole. Add the seat by gluing the back (B.4) onto the seat base flush with the back of the base. Glue the sides (B.5) to the base and back, then glue the seat (B.6) onto the sides. Glue the three headblocks to the notched areas on top of the carriage frame. There should be a scale foot overhang on the front side of the carriage - that is the side facing the saw. Drill the axle holes clear with a #72 drill and drill the remaining 14 holes in the carriage sides and ends clear with a #78 drill. Glue a N-B-W into the four holes on each side and the three holes across the top of the end sheets. Touchup the paint. Trim the axles on the back of the wheels to a length of five scale inches. Glue the wheel axle into the hole of the wheel spacer with the wheel flush against the spacer. Cut six lengths of wire to a scale 3'-4" length and insert into the axle holes on the inside of the frame to represent the axles. RLW Where the carriage is placed on the track determines the length of the brown line; cut it to give two lengths that will run from the end sheets of the carriage over the rollers at the end of the track and into the floor. Glue the brown line into the bottom hole of the end sheet on each end of the carriage. The other ends will later be glued over the roller and under the floor at the end of the track. 7

8 McCabe Lumber Company Drill the holes in the eight roller supports (C.4) clear with a #78 drill and glue them to the tie strips (C.1, C.2) where marked as shown in the drawing on page 5. The rollers drop in place between the supports and a small length of wire is inserted from the side of the support to hold the roller in place. The two tie strips (C.1, C.2) glue together as shown in the drawing. Glue rail bases (C.5, C.6) to the top of the tie strip with the scribed holes on top and the outside edges inset two scale inches from the end of the ties. Trim the rails to length and file the ends smooth. Glue them in place centered on the rail bases with ACC, then when dry, spike at the places indicated by the scribed holes. It will be easier to spike if the scribed holes are pre-drilled clear with a #79 drill. Glue the rail base to the floor. Glue the carriage to the rails. Wrap the cord over the end rollers and glue it in place with the tail of the cord sticking into the hole in the floor. Log Carriage and Track Parts (Quantity per Bag - Two Bags per Kit) QTY MATERIAL Set Works 1 Headblock 3 Roller 4 Nut-Bolt-Washer 16 Wheel 12 Rail 4 Spikes 40 Wire, 0.015" 2 1 Brown Line 1 A.1 Carriage Side 2 1/32Ply A.2 Carriage End 2 1/32Ply A.3 Carriage Center Beam 2 1/32Ply B.1 Deck, End 2 1/32Ply B.2 Deck, Center, Left 1 1/32Ply B.3 Deck, Center, Right 1 1/32Ply B.4 Seat Back 1 1/32Ply B.5 Seat Side 2 1/32Ply B.6 Seat 1 1/32Ply C.1 Tie Strip, Left 1 1/16 Bass C.2 Tie Strip, Right 1 1/16 Bass C.3 Not Used C.4 Roller Support 8 1/32Ply C.5 Rail Base, End 4 1/32Ply C.6 Rail Base, Center 2 1/32Ply C.7 Seat Base 1 1/32Ply D.1 End Sheet 2 White Card D.2 Wheel Spacer 12 White Card 8 Back View

9 RLW Left and Right Band Saws This model was inspired by one from the Cordesman Machine Co. This saw did all the hard work of cutting the logs into cants. The band saw has been assembled and painted a base coat of green by our friends in the orient. The rollers and outer surface of the wheels should be painted silver. The control handle and adjustment wheel can be painted black or red. Warning! The saw blade is sharp and can cut you! No bandages are included with this kit! On the right band saw, position the blade so that the teeth are pointing downward through the slot next to the roller and facing the band saw frame. On the left band saw, position the blade so that the teeth are pointing downward through the slot next to the roller and facing away from the band saw frame as shown in the photos. Gently bend the center of the bandsaw blade to match the radius of the top saw wheel and shape the rest of the blade to fit the saw. Once the blade passes through the floor it is not visible, so there is no need to shape the bottom of the blade correctly; however, it can be done and glued in place as shown in the photos. ACC the blade in place after sliding the saw blade into the slot shown. Glue the two bases of each saw together with the scribed lines of the base on top and the holes lined up. Paint as desired. Once the saw is glued in place on the base, the floor plate glues into position around the back of the band saw to cover the large openings in the base. Two handles are bent from the 0.010" wire and glued into the holes in the access hatches on the floor plate. Glue the bases, left and right to the sawmill main floor with the teeth of the blades pointing toward the jackslip end of the mill and the roller side of the band saw close to the log carriage track. Band Saw Parts (Quantity per Bag - Two Bags per Kit) QTY MATERIAL Band Saw 1 Blade 1 Wire, 0.010" 1 Base 1 1/16 Bass Sub-Base 1 1/16 Bass Floor Plate 1 White Card Left Band Saw 9

10 McCabe Lumber Company Left Band Saw Edgers The edger, or resaw, is based upon one from the Corinth Manufacturing Co. model. Its job is to rip cut the cants into individual boards. Adjustable round blades are in this saw and the operator moves them as needed to produce various width boards. The edger has been assembled and painted a base coat of green by our friends in the orient. The rollers and outer surface of the wheels should be painted Stainless Steel. A piece of 0.010" wire is used to form the shaft that holds the blades. Cut it to fit into the dimple on the middle wheel of the three-wheel side of the edger frame with the other end resting on the ledge on the single-wheel side directly behind the wheel's axle. Glue a blade hub (B.2) to each side of the blades (B.1) centered over the hole. Slide as many blades as desired on to the brass wire, position them spaced evenly, and glue in place. Paint this assembly Stainless Steel and glue in place in the edger frame. The sheet with the various widths of bond paper strips should be painted with Floquil Rail Brown to be used for the belts. Choose a width close to the size of the wheels. On the side with three drive wheels, loop the belt around the three and glue the joint at the bottom of the center wheel. On the other side, a belt runs over the top of the drive wheel and into the floor. Glue the edgers to the floor with this belt in the hole and the corners of the edger frames inside the corner marks on the main sawmill floor. With the scribed lines on the outside, the roller frames (A.1, A.2) connect together with the bottom (A.4) and top (A.3) braces. Keep the frame assembly square and 10

11 RLW sand the edges smooth when dry. Paint the roller castings before gluing into place; the roller can be silver and the pillow blocks on each end can be painted green. The roller castings glue to the tops of the frames with one positioned at each end and the rest spaced approximately a scale 24" apart between them. Glue the roller frames to the floor on each side of the edger as shown with the long roller spaced approximately 24 scale inches from the sloped front of the edger frame and the rear roller approximately nine scale inches behind the frame. The edge of the roller frames on the large wheel side of the edger will be in line with the edger frame as shown in the photo at the right. Edger Parts (Quantity per Bag - Two Bags per Kit) Edger 1 Roller, 4' 15 Wire, 0.010" 1 QTY MATERIAL A.1 Roller Side, Long 2 1/32Ply A.2 Roller Side, Short 2 1/32Ply A.3 Roller Top Brace 6 1/32Ply A.4 Roller Bottom Brace 6 1/32Ply B.1 Blade 6 White Card B.2 Blade Hub 12 White Card Belt 2 Bond Paper 11

12 McCabe Lumber Company Left and Right Swing Saws The swing saw, a R. R. Howell Co. product, is manually operated and is used to trim the length of the boards. Waste falls below the rollers eventually going into the slash burner or the fireboxes of the boilers. With the scribed lines on the outside, the roller sides (A.1) connect together with the bottom (A.3) and top (A.2) braces. Keep the frame assembly square and sand the edges smooth when dry. Determine which end of the roller assembly will have the saw frame. The photos show it on the left so this will be the saw on the left side of the mill; to put it on the right simply rotate the frame (B.1) 180 degrees before assembly and glue it to the other end of the roller as shown in the Right Side drawing. Glue the frame top (B.2) to the frame (B.1). The diagonal braces (B.3) glue between the frame and the frame top. Sand all the edges smooth when the glue has dried. Glue the frame top boards (C.5) to the outside edges and the saw hanger top boards (C.4) to the frame top as shown in the drawing. Keep the holes in the saw hanger top boards in line with the holes in the frame top. Glue the bottom joist (C.1) to the back of the frame flush with the bottom of the frame. Glue the top joist (C.2) to the top of the frame with the top edge of the joist flush with the top of the top boards. Add the diagonal brace (C.3) to the back of the frame keeping Left Side Right Side 12

13 the holes in line. Sand all the edges smooth, glue to the roller frame assembly flush with the end, and touchup the paint. The swing saw has been assembled and painted a base coat of green by our friends in the orient. The outer surface of the wheels should be painted Stainless Steel. Add the belt from the top wheel to the bottom wheel. The sheet with the various widths of bond paper strips should be painted with Floquil Rail Brown to be used for the belts. Choose a width close to the size of the wheels and ACC it to the drive wheels. Glue the round metal saw blade to the saw. Glue the swing saw into the four holes on the bottom of the frame top (B.2) as shown in the photos. Glue the handle (D.1) to the bottom of the saw frame on the opposite side from the blade. Drill the 13 holes in the assembled frame clear with a #75 drill and glue a N-B-W into each hole. Drill the center of the drive wheel and 'V' bearing supports clear with a #78 drill. Two 'V' bearing supports glue to the back of the frame as shown in the photo on page 14. Run a scale six foot length RLW of wire through the bearing supports and mount a drive wheel between the supports on this wire. Glue a belt in place between the outer power wheel of the saw and this drive wheel. The wire will be centered on the frame, and provides a place for mounting an additional drive wheel that will later connect the saw to the overhead belt drive. From the main details bag, pull out the two small drive wheels, one for each swing saw - these are a scale 21" in diameter. Drill the center clear with a #78 drill and slide onto the wire - do not glue yet. Also from the main details bag, pull out the two 'V' bearing supports, one for each swing saw. Add a third 'V' bearing support to each swing saw on the back of the frame as shown in the photo on page 14. Paint the roller castings before gluing into place; the roller can be Stainless Steel and the pillow blocks on each end can be painted Coach Green. The roller castings glue to the tops of the frames with one positioned at each end and the rest spaced approximately a scale 24" apart between them. 13

14 McCabe Lumber Company Build the six hog chutes* by bending the chutes (K.1) as shown in the drawing. Glue the hog chute base (J.1) to the inside bottom of the chute, then glue the four sides of the hog chute together. Paint the outside Reefer Gray with a Black interior. One chute will glue under each swing saw inside the roller frame. The other four hog chutes will be used later. The swing saws are placed on the main sawmill floor inline with the back roller of the edgers; the front edge of the swing saws should be close to the short edger roller. Double check the location using the overhead belt frame that is discussed on page 17. The center drive wheels that will be on the overhead belt frame should line up over the small drive wheel on the back of the swing saw. The top photo on page 12 shows the swing saw at the right. Mark the location for the hog chute and glue it and the swing saw in place, one on the left and one on the right. Back Swing Saw Parts (Quantity per Bag - Two Bags per Kit) QTY MATERIAL Swing Saw 1 Blade 1 Roller, 4' 8 Nut-Bolt-Washer 13 Drive Wheel 1 'V' Bearing Support 2 Wire, 0.015" 1 A.1 Roller Side 2 1/32Ply A.2 Roller Top Brace 3 1/32Ply A.3 Roller Bottom Brace 3 1/32Ply B.1 Frame 1 1/16Bass B.2 Frame Top 1 1/16Bass B.3 Frame Diagonal Brace 2 1/16Bass C.1 Bottom Joist 1 1/64 Ply C.2 Top Joist 1 1/64 Ply C.3 Back Brace 1 1/64 Ply C.4 Saw Hanger Top Board 2 1/64 Ply C.5 Frame Top Board 2 1/64 Ply D.1 Handle 1 1/64 Ply Belt 2 Bond Paper * - The hog chutes direct scrap pieces of wood down to the hog that is on the first floor of the mill. The hog is a grinder that makes chips of the wood before sending them to the slash burner. 14

15 Rollers There are three long rollers and one short roller in the kit. With the scribed lines on the outside, the roller sides (A.11, A.12) connect together with the bottom (A.14) and top (A.13) braces. Keep the frame assembly square and sand the edges smooth when dry. Paint the roller castings before gluing into place; the roller can be silver and the pillow blocks on each end can be painted green. The roller castings glue to the tops of the frames with one positioned at each end and the rest spaced approximately a scale 24" apart between them. The rollers are positioned 20 scale inches away from the log carriage track. The short roller will rest on the roller support that has been attached to the transfer. Check the layout on pages 25 and 26. RLW Hog Chutes Glue two previously assembled hog chutes near the end of the short edger rollers next to the swing saws. The other two hog chutes can be placed as desired; there is no specific location for these. 15

16 McCabe Lumber Company Conveyors The two conveyors move the just-cut boards from the first set of rollers next to the log carriage track to the set of rollers that feed into the edgers. Glue the conveyor posts (A.17) to the conveyor base (A.16) as shown in the drawing. Cut a length of 0.010" wire about 1" long and slide it into the end post. Hold a conveyor arm (B.14) between the posts and thread the wire through the arm. Add the conveyor lever (B.15) to the wire on #50 drill to create a hole in the floor below the conveyor lever, insert the bent portion into the hole in the conveyor lever with the remaining inserted into the hole in the floor. one side of the center posts, and add the remaining conveyor arms. Use a drop of ACC to lock the lever and arms into position as shown. Glue a small N-B-W into the holes on the outside posts as shown in the drawing. Glue the conveyors to the floor and to the side of the long edger rollers as shown in the photo to the right and drawing on page 25. The arms will rest between the rollers on the roller frame closest to the band saw. After installing against the edger roller, add a control wire that will run from the conveyor lever into a hole that needs to be drilled in the floor under the lever. Cut a piece of.5" 0.010" wire and bend 1/32" on one end to a 90 0 angle forming an 'L' shape. Use a 16

17 Main Floor Details The various pieces of machinery need to be controlled and, in the Slatyfork Sawmill, this is done by levers that control the belt drive below the main floor. The levers are painted red and the handles can be painted black. Glue the control levers (H.1) into the lever bases (A.7, A.8). A small N-B-W glues into the holes on each side of the base, and the bases glue to the sawmill floor as indicated in the floor drawing on page 25. The large drive wheels of the edgers have a safety barrier. Glue the wheel safety rails (F.13) to the wheel safety post (D.3) as shown in the photo below. Glue the completed barrier into the belt slot beside the edgers. RLW Drive Belts The bulk of the belt drive system for the Slatyfork Sawmill is on the first floor of the mill hidden under the main sawmill floor. The swing saws need power that must be brought up from under the floor and across the ceiling. Form a belt shaft by gluing the three belt walls (B.17-B.19) together. Paint the exterior to match the interior color of the sawmill and the interior black. Glue it to the lower floor against the outside wall as shown in the drawing on page 25 and the photo below. There are several sizes of cut lumber (A.9, I.1, I.2) included to be placed on the rollers and transfer. Sand the laser burn off the sides before gluing in place. Assemble and paint the figures. Glue these guys around the main floor as desired. Add whatever trash, slash, and sawdust is desired at this time to the machinery and floor. 17

18 McCabe Lumber Company The overhead belt frame for the swing saws will mount on the inside walls of the sawmill. Glue the belt frame hanger support (B.20) to the bottom of the belt frame hanger (E.3) with three edges flush. The part of the hanger support that extends out from the hanger will glue under the top rail of the sawmill wall frame just over the last set of main floor windows. The vertical belt wheel, indicated in the drawing below, should be over the belt shaft just installed on the lower floor. Sand the top of the ends of the belt frame (E.2) to an angle that will clear the roof when installed in the mill. Test the fit and resand, if needed, before proceeding. Glue the belt frame braces (B.16) over the crossmembers of the belt frame (E.2). Drill the holes in the braces clear with a #75 drill and glue a small N-B-W into each hole. Turn the frame over, placing the N-B-Ws on the workbench, and using the holes as guides, glue a 'V' bearing support to the frame as shown in the photo below after drilling the hole clear with a #78 drill. Running a length of wire Bottom view of the O scale Belt Frame. The vertical belt wheel is in the upper left corner. 18

19 through the bearing supports will help keep them in alignment while gluing. Drill the centers of the seven large drive wheels clear with a #78 drill. Cut two lengths of 0.015" wire a scale 7.5' long and cut one length a scale 5' long. File the ends smooth, and use them to install the drive wheels as shown in the photo on page 18. Center the wheels between the bearing supports and glue all the outer wheels in place; the two center wheels will need to be positioned over the drive wheels of the swing saws before gluing into place. The sheet with the various widths of bond paper strips should be painted with Floquil Rail Brown to be used for the belts. Choose a width close to the size of the wheels. Belts need to be installed on the two outer sets of wheels as shown in the photo on page 18. Two lengths of belt may need to be glued together end-toend to make it long enough to fit; a small overlap will work. Glue to the wheels with ACC. The vertical belt will be glued to the end drive wheel and trimmed to fit inside the belt shaft without hitting the floor. Glue it to the drive wheel and test the fit before trimming. The lower ends can be glued to a small scrap of wood to help keep them straight. Glue the belt frame into the notches of the belt frame hangers (E.3) with the vertical belt inside the belt shaft. Position the center wheels over the drive wheels of the swing saws and glue them in place. Belts need to be run RLW from these center drive wheels down to the small drive wheels on the swing saws. It will be easier to simply form two belts into 'U' shapes then glue them to the small drive wheels on the swing saws. The upper ends can then be rolled around the large drive wheels on the belt frame and glued in place. Sawfiler's Floor During the sawmill assembly, the safety railings should have been added around the openings in the sawfiler's floor as shown below. If not, do so now! The band saw blades are hoisted up from the main floor for sharpening and repair. The A-frame hoists are now added over the openings as follows. Glue the hoist beams (A.6) to the tops of the hoist frames (A.5). Glue a hoist pulley bracket (B.13) into one slot on the bottom of the hoist beam, place a grooved pulley into 19

20 the hole, and glue the second bracket (B.13) into the other slot. Glue a small N-B.W into the holes on the outside of the pulley brackets. Glue the upper brace (F.9) and the lower brace (F.8) to each side of the hoist frame. Glue each completed hoist inserted into the opening in the sawfiler floor. Cut two 1" lengths of chain. Run one over each pulley, and secure one end to one of the safety railing posts on the open end of the hoist opening as shown in the photo on page 22. Assemble the two workbenches by gluing legs (A.10) into the notches of the sub-tops (B.12). Before the glue dries, insert a shelf (C.2), board side up, between the legs. When the legs are dry, glue these shelves to the cross boards of the legs. The tops (C.1) glue down to the assembly with the back flush with the rear edge of the frame and the scribed side up. Stain these with either oak stain or paint, and weather heavily with gray washes. Paint the grinders orange with dark gray wheels and glue to one end of each workbench. Paint the laser-cut squares, triangles, and files (G.4, G.5, G.6, G.7) Grimy Black and glue to the workbenches. The tool set castings, hammers, lube cans, tongs, blow torches, etc., and assorted cans & junk can be painted as desired and added to the workbenches or the shelves. Glue the workbenches about 3/64" out from the side walls of the sawfiler's area. The two shelving units are assembled using three vertical sides (C.5) - the top of these has a notch - and four shelves (F.4); start by gluing the shelves to the center vertical piece first, then adding the other two pieces. Glue in place 3/64" McCabe Lumber Company 20 out from the back wall next to the door. Glue a blade hub (G.2) to each side of the round saw blades (G.1) centered over the hole. Paint these silver and weather with rust. Glue around the sawfiler's area. Assemble the blade holders by gluing the base (F.1) into the slot on the bottom of the holder (F.2). Glue the ends of the band saw blades (G.3) together to form loops. Glue six or more blade holders to each of two of the blades and glue these into the open areas of the sawfiler's floor. The other two blades can be stacked on the floor out of the way or tossed around the outside of the mill. The extra blade holders can be set aside as shown below. Assemble the ladder by gluing the rungs (C.4) into the slots on the rails (C.3) to form the ladder as follows. Glue a rung into the end slots to tie the rails together. Allow these to dry completely, and add the remaining rungs. When all are dry, sand the sides of the rails smooth, paint and lay around the area against a wall. The sawhorses are assembled by gluing the beams (D.2) into the notch at the top of the legs (D.1). There are

21 sawhorse braces (F.3) that attach just below the beam on both sides of the legs; glue these in place. Stain these with either oak stain, or weather heavily with gray washes and place around the area. RLW Glue the three anvil bases (A.19) together in a stack, and when dry, sand the edges smooth. Glue the anvil casting to the top of the stack and place near one of the work benches. Assemble the chair by gluing the legs (F.10) into the slots of the seat (F.11) keeping the angled leg at the back of the seat. Glue the back (F.12) into the slot of the seat. Glue two desk ends (E.1) together as shown in the drawing and glue a set to each side of the desk front (F.5) and glue the desk back (F.6) to the other side of the ends. When dry, sand all the edges smooth. Glue the top (F.7) centered side to side with the overhang at the front, drawer-side of the desk. Paint or stain the desk and chair as desired and glue into the sawfiler's area against the wall. Drums can be painted black with colored bands and stacked around the area. Paint the small barrels, junk box, jugs, and crates Earth, and then add rusty bands to the barrels. The gallon cans, gears, and wire spools can be painted Silver and placed on the workbenches or shelves. Paint the scrap drive wheel and the wheel pile Grimy Black and add lots of rust. Place them in an out-of-the-way corner. There is really no end to the level of details and clutter that can be added to the sawfiler's area. Some mills kept things neat and clean; others did not. This kit provides a good start in either case. 21

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23 Main Details(assumes double line) Nut-Bolt-Washer, Large 7 Nut-Bolt-Washer, Small 63 Drive Wheel, Large 7 Drive Wheel, Small 2 'V' Bearing Support 12 Grooved Pulley 17 Rollers, 30" 49 Grinder 2 Jug 3 Small Can 4 5-Gallon Can 3 Small Barrel 2 30-Gallon Drum 2 30-Gallon Junk Drum 2 Anvil 1 Crate 3 Hammer 2 Tool Set 1 Lube Can 2 Tong 2 Blow Torch 2 Tool Box 1 Can w/handle 1 Scrap Drive Wheel 1 Gear 2 Wire Spool 2 Junk Box 1 Drive Wheel Pile 1 Jug/Crate Cluster 1 Workers 6 Wire, 0.015" 1 Wire, 0.010" 1 Chain 3 Belt Sheet 1 Saw Dust 2 Band Saw Bag 2 Edger Bag 2 Swing Saw Bag 2 Carriage & Track Bag 2 Floor Template 1 QTY MATERIAL A.1 Transfer Frame, Short 4 1/32 ply A.2 Transfer Frame, Long 6 1/32 ply A.3 Transfer Base, Long 6 1/32 ply A.4 Transfer Base, Short 4 1/32 ply A.5 Hoist Frame 4 1/32 ply A.6 Hoist Beam 2 1/32 ply A.7 Control Lever Base, Two Slot 9 1/32 ply A.8 Control Lever Base, Three Slot 3 1/32 ply A.9 Lumber, 24" Boards 5 1/32 ply A.10 Workbench Leg 4 1/32 ply A.11 Roller Side, Long 6 1/32 ply A.12 Roller Side, Short 2 1/32 ply A.13 Roller Top Brace 17 1/32 ply A.14 Roller Bottom Brace 17 1/32 ply A.15 Short Roller Support 1 1/32 ply A.16 Conveyor Base 2 1/32 ply RLW 23 QTY MATERIAL A.17 Conveyor Post 12 1/32 ply A.18 Not Used A.19 Anvil Base 3 1/32 ply B.1 Deck, Narrow Lower 2 1/64ply B.2 Deck, Narrow Upper, Long 2 1/64ply B.3 Deck, Narrow Upper, Short 2 1/64ply B.4 Deck, Wide Lower 1 1/64ply B.5 Deck, Wide Upper 1 1/64ply B.6 Side Rail, Long 2 1/64ply B.7 Side Rail, Medium 4 1/64ply B.8 Side Rail, Short 2 1/64ply B.9 Chain Well Floor, Long 3 1/64ply B.10 Chain Well Floor, Medium 5 1/64ply B.11 Chain Well Floor, Short 2 1/64ply B.12 Workbench Sub-Top 2 1/64ply B.13 Hoist Pulley Bracket 4 1/64ply B.14 Conveyor Arm 6 1/64ply B.15 Conveyor Lever 2 1/64ply B.16 Belt Frame Brace 7 1/64ply B.17 Belt Wall Side, Left 1 1/64ply B.18 Belt Wall Side, Right 1 1/64ply B.19 Belt Wall Front 1 1/64ply B.20 Belt Frame Hanger Support 2 1/64ply C.1 Workbench Top 2 1/64ply C.2 Workbench Shelf 2 1/64ply C.3 Ladder Rail 2 1/64ply C.4 Ladder Rung 7 1/64ply C.5 Shelf Side 6 1/64ply D.1 Sawhorse Leg 4 1/32 ply D.2 Sawhorse Beam 2 1/32 ply D.3 Wheel Safety Post 2 1/32 ply E.1 Desk End 2 1/32 ply E.2 Belt Frame 1 1/32 ply E.3 Belt Frame Hanger 2 1/32 ply F.1 Blade Holder Base 20 1/64 Ply F.2 Blade Holder 20 1/64 Ply F.3 Sawhorse Brace 8 1/64 Ply F.4 Shelf 8 1/64 Ply F.5 Desk Front 1 1/64 Ply F.6 Desk Back 1 1/64 Ply F.7 Desk Top 1 1/64 Ply F.8 Hoist Lower Brace 4 1/64 Ply F.9 Hoist Upper Brace 4 1/64 Ply F.10 Chair Leg 2 1/64 Ply F.11 Chair Seat 1 1/64 Ply F.12 Chair Back 1 1/64 Ply F.13 Wheel Safety Rail 4 1/64 Ply G.1 Round Saw Blade 12 White Card G.2 Round Saw Blade Hub 24 White Card G.3 Band Saw Blade 4 White Card G.4 Square 3 White Card G.5 Triangle 4 White Card G.6 Large File 5 White Card

24 McCabe Lumber Company QTY MATERIAL G.7 Small File 5 White Card G.8 Dog 42 White Card H.1 Control Lever 27 1/64 Ply I.1 Lumber, 24" Boards 8 1/32 Bass I.2 Lumber, 12" Boards 12 1/32 Bass J.1 Hog Chute Base 6 1/32 Ply K.1 Hog Chute 6 White Card All information in this instruction manual is the sole property of R.L.W.. and may not be reproduced in any manner without written permission. Copyright 2011 R.L.W. Republic Locomotive Works 16 Little Cape Horn Cathlamet, WA

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