COMPLIMENTARY WOODWORKING PLAN

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COMPLIMENTARY WOODWORKING PLAN ORIENTAL GARDEN ARBOR PLAN This downloadable plan is copyrighted. Please do not share or redistribute this plan in any way.

1 COMPLIMENTARY WOODWORKING PLAN ORIENTAL GARDEN ARBOR PLAN This downloadable plan is copyrighted. Please do not share or redistribute this plan in any way. It has been paid for on your behalf by JET Tools, a division of WMH Tool Group. WMH is not responsible for inconsistencies or omissions associated with this free plan.

(recommended) -Table Saw (recommended) -Basic Hand Tools Included in Plan: Grid Diagrams

2 Features: Simple Construction Oriental Styling Comfortable Seating for two Build with or without integral bench Tools Needed: -Jig Saw or Band Saw -Drill -Belt Sander (recommended) -Table Saw (recommended) -Basic Hand Tools Included in Plan: Grid Diagrams detailing contoured parts Parts Lists Cutting Diagrams 3D Assembly Diagrams Step by Step Instructions

3 1 This stylish arbor is the perfect addition to any yard or garden. You can while away the hours in restful tranquility on the comfortable bench or you can omit the bench to create an over the path archway. Build one of each for a matched set. The trellis sides are perfect for that climbing vegetation to give you some sun-dappled shading. The pagoda shaped roof lines give this arbor a distinctive oriental flair. Material Selection: This project has been designed to fit common lumberyard dimensioned lumber. You can build it from Western Red Cedar, Redwood or from common construction grade spruce. If building from spruce, you will have to take extra steps to protect your project from rot, especially where the legs contact the ground. The materials list is assuming you are building the complete project, with bench. If eliminating the bench, you can eliminate a couple of boards, all the lag bolts and carriage bolts. Qty Materials: 5 10 foot 2X foot lath (1 1/2 X 3/8) Note: 6 8 foot 2X4 If not building bench, eliminate 4 8 foot 1X6 two 2X4 and two 1X6 1 8 foot 1X8 4 3/8" X 5" lag bolts, plated Also Required: 4 3/8" X 6" lag bolts, plated Finishing nails, 1 1/4", 1" 4 3/8" X 3 1/2" carriage bolts, with nuts 12 3/8" flat washers 4 5" brass deck screws, #10 or #12 brass deck screws, 3", 1 3/4", #8 or #10 Parts List all dimensions in inches Part # Description Qty Length Width Thick Material 1 Legs /2 1 1/2 2X4 2 Lower stringers /2 1 1/2 cut from 2X4 3 upper stringers /2 3/4 cut from 1X6 4 Crossbeams /4 1 1/2 cut from 2X6 5 Arches /4 1 1/2 cut from 2X6 6 Rafters /2 5 1/4 1 1/2 cut from 2X6 7 Semicircles /4 cut from 1X8 8 Sideslats /2 3/8 Lath, trim to fit 9 Roofslats /2 3/8 Lath 10 Seat Sides /4 5 1/4 1 1/2 cut from 2X6 10b Seat Center Support /2 5 1/4 1 1/2 cut from 2X6 11 Supporting Seat Slat /2 1 1/2 cut from 2X4 12 Seat Slats /2 3/4 cut from 1X6 13 Back Top Rail /4 1 1/2 Cut from 2X6 14 Back Bottom Rail /2 1 1/2 2X4 15 Back Slats /2 3/4 Cut from 1X6 16 Arms /2 1 1/2 Cut from 2X4 17 Seat Support Strips 4 8 7/8 1 1/2 3/8 Lath, cut to fit The cutting diagram that follows shows one method of fitting the required parts onto the materials specified. Feel free to modify to fit your own materials. Note that some parts appear wider than the materials they are cut from. These parts do fit the material when the special instructions are followed in their creation.

4 2 Cutting Diagram:

5 3 Step 1: Cut the two lower stringers (#2) from 2X4 stock and the four upper stringers (#3) from 1X6 stock, to the profile shown. If desired, you can round over the upper and lower edges slightly, using a sander or a router. Step 2: Cut the four legs (#1) to size from 2X4 stock. Install upper stringers as shown, using screws. The upper stringers will be a pair with the 3/8 lath strips sandwiched between, therefore the first one installed should be off center. Set it ¾ from one face. The lower stringer will support the seat and the weight of two people, therefore it should be installed with glue and 3/8 X 5 lag bolts. Lag bolts need to have pilot holes drilled to prevent splitting of material. Start by drilling a ¼ hole through the leg and into the stringer. Separate the stringer and deepen the ¼ hole on its end. Enlarge the hole through the leg to 3/8. The lag bolt will now bite into the stringer but not the leg. Be sure to use a flat washer to keep the head of the bolt from tearing into the wood. Drive the bolts in with a ratchet wrench. Note: If not building the bench, the lower stringer will not be weight bearing and can be installed using the same deck screws as for the top stringer. This is a good time to treat the bottoms of the legs against rot. I suggest a double treatment. Start by dipping them into wood preservative, allowing it to soak into the wood. Allow the wood preservative to dry completely. Then coat the ends of the legs with waterproof wood glue to seal them. The glue-sealing process may take more than one treatment. Have you ever had glue ruin a stain job by preventing stain absorption? You can use that sealing property to your advantage here.

6 4 Step 3: Cut the semicircle (#7) to size from 1X8 stock. Use a compass to scribe the semicircle shape to a 7" radius. The part should be 14" wide, 7" tall when done. Round over the outer arced edge if desired. When positioning it on the lower stringer, it should be centered lengthwise and positioned laterally to allow the lath strips to be flush with the edge of the stringer. If your lath strips are 3/8 thick, the semicircle should be 3/8 from the inner face of the stringer. The rounded edge of the part should face away from the lath strips. Mount the semicircle using glue and screws driven in from underneath the stringer. Cut the center lath strip to fit between the upper and lower stringers and nail it in using glue and 1 nails. Cut the two outer lath strips and install them as shown. Cut the two intermediate lath strips and center them between the center strip and the outer strips. Nail them all into place. Mount the remaining upper stringer over the top ends of the lath strips using screws as shown. Repeat the procedure for the opposite end of the arbor, creating two mirror image assemblies. Step 4: From 2X6 stock, cut the three crossbeams (#3) to size as shown. Trace the end profile onto each end, using a compass, as shown. Keep in mind that the shape does not have to be exactly the same as this one but all six ends should be the same. Use the cut-off scrap stock from the first one as a template to trace the remaining ones. If desired, round over the lower edges of the crossbeams. Step 5: Arch Creation (no, not Noah s ark)the two arches (#5) are cut from a pair of 2X6 s glued together. Since most lumber has rounded edges, run the 2X6 s through the table saw, removing just enough stock to give a clean square edge. A: Glue the two together on edge using waterproof glue and pipe clamps.

7 5 B: When the assembly is dry, scribe the arc as shown. The easiest way to accomplish this is to flex a thin strip of wood to the desired arc and tracing it with a pencil. I tap in small nails to hold the ends of the wood strip in place. Using a band saw or jig saw, cut the arc. C: Take the newly freed arc and glue it to the opposite side of the assembly, using pipe clamps. D: Trace new arcs and cut the two arches from the wide arch. Each arch should be 3 ¾ wide, which will leave you with a narrow strip of waste. Sand the arches, rounding over the upper and lower edges if desired. Step 6: Mount a crossbeam across the top of each side assembly using 3 screws, centering it visually. Mount the arches as shown, lining up the lower tips with the lower edges of the crossbeams. When installing the arches, adjust the distance between the legs to 48. Leave one end unglued in case you have to adjust the width to make the roof fit properly.

8 6 Step 7: Rafter Creation: The rafters are created using a similar glue up technique as used on the arches. Start by ripping clean square edges on your four 2X6 s, removing as little material as possible. To ensure that all four rafters are the same, create one complete rafter and use it as a template to create the remaining three. A: Scribe an arc across one prepared 2X6, extending from the ends to the center of the board. B: Cut the arc free, using a band saw or jig saw. C: Glue the arc onto the opposite side of the board, using waterproof glue and pipe clamps. D: Draw the final contour onto the blank and cut it to shape. Use the grid diagram as a guide. Note that the angle of the sharp end is the same angle needed for the notch. A sliding bevel is very useful for maintaining the same angle throughout. Create the other three rafters in the same manner, using the first one as a tracing template. Sand the completed rafters. Note that the angle is measured to the pre-cut horizontal upper edge, not the curved edge.

9 7 Step 8: Mount two of the rafters onto the remaining crossbeam, as shown. The distance between the two rafters should be 33 and they should be centered on the crossbeam. Use glue and 3 deck screws. Install the remaining two rafters in the same manner, driving the screws in on an angle from the inside, as shown. Drive one additional screw into the tops of the rafters as shown. Move on to step 10 before the glue sets up in case some flexibility is needed.

10 8 Step 10: Working with a helper, place the assembled roof over the crossbeams as shown. If only slight adjustment is needed for proper fit, flex the screwed together roof to make it fit. If greater adjustment in width is needed, you may have to unscrew the arch to reposition it. Screw the roof assembly into place using 5 deck screws in the positions shown. Step 11: Cut the lath strips to fit the roof. Start by installing the strip at the lower edge. Continue up the slope, spacing them 4 ½ apart as you go. The strips are best attached with 1 ¼ galvanized finishing nails or a nail gun if you have one. A bit of glue will prevent them from tearing away in the wind. Feel free to use more strips, spaced more closely if you want more shading.

11 9 If you have decided to omit the bench, you are now finished the arbor. Place it upon concrete blocks or bricks set into the earth slightly, to keep the legs elevated above the earth. You may want to anchor it down somehow if it will be subject to high winds. The bench version is a little less susceptible to wind movement as it will be heavier and much more rigid. Bench Addition: Step 12: From 2X6 stock, cut the two seat sides (#10) and the seat center support (#10b) to shape on this grid diagram. Draw a series of 1 squares on a piece of 2X6 and transfer the profile, one square at a time. 10b is exactly the same shape, trimmed 1 ½ shorter at the rear end, as shown. From 2X4 stock, cut the arms (#16) to the size and shape shown. Use a compass or a round object to trace the radiused corners. Round over the upper edges if desired, leaving the ends square.

12 10 Step 13: Mount one seat side (#10) to the inner face of each side assembly in the position shown. The front edge should be 8 ¾ from the face of the leg, and the bottom should be 9 ¾ above the ground level. This will give you a seat height of 15 ¾. You have a bit of leeway to adjust the seat height at this point, by modifying this elevation. Note that if you will be placing the arbor on elevated concrete blocks, it will raise the seat by that amount, which you may wish to allow for at this point. Clamp the part into position and drill it through in two locations with a 3/8 bit. Bolt it together using the 3/8 X 3 ½ carriage bolts, with flat washers. Mount the arms at an elevation of 22 ½ using glue and screws as shown. If you have adjusted the seat height, adjust the arm height accordingly. Cut pieces of lath to fit under the bottom stringers. These will provide extra support against sag under the weight of two people. Install them under the stringers in all four corners, using glue and nails.

13 11 Step 14: From a 2X4, cut the supporting seat slat (#11) to size, as per the parts list. This one slat is thicker than the others to provide extra rigidity in the seat. Once built, the ends will be hidden from view and it will look just like the rest of the slats. Round over the upper edges slightly with the router or sander. Install it in the notches of the seat sides using screws only. I like to omit the glue from these parts to simplify future disassembly for refinishing. (I discovered this after I had to brutally hammer apart some adirondack chairs for refinishing) In the center of the thick slat, install the seat center support. Although there is no leg in the center, this part greatly increases the rigidity of the seat by interconnecting all the slats at the center. From 1X6 stock, cut the remaining seat slats (#12). Round over the upper edges, as with the thick slat. Space the slats evenly and screw them down with 1 ¾ screws. Predrilling the screw holes greatly reduces splitting of these parts. Note that the rear seat slat overhangs the center support but will be supported by the back bottom rail, later. Step 15: From 2X6 stock, cut the back top rail (#13) as shown. Scribe the arc using a thin strip of wood and cut the arc using a band saw or jig saw. Sand the part and round over the upper and lower edges, leaving the ends square.

14 12 Cut a groove in the center of the bottom of the part, as shown. This can be done by using a dado cutter in a table saw or with a ¾ straight carbide router bit, used with a router table. Since the groove is ½ deep, you will have to make 3 or 4 passes with the router. This groove can even be made by making multiple passes with the table saw, chiseling out the waste by hand. Step 16: From 1X6 stock, cut the back slats (#15) to size. Round over the edges and sand them. Install the center slat, measuring to center it. Install with a couple of 1 ¼ nails at the top and two 1 ¾ screws at the bottom. The top part will be flimsy until the back is installed. The nails only serve to keep the captured slats from moving sideways. Evenly space the remaining slats and install the same way.

15 13 Step 17: Fit the completed seat back underneath the rearmost seat slat, in the position shown. The back is held in place with four 3/8 X 6 lag bolts in the locations shown. Each lag bolt requires a 3/8 diameter hole through the main framework and a ¼ diameter hole drilled into the seat back parts. With the back propped into place, or held in place by a helper, drill the ¼ hole clear through into the back. Remove the back and deepen the ¼ holes in the seat back to a depth of 3. Using a 3/8 bit, enlarge the holes on the framework. Drive the lag bolts into place with a ratchet wrench. When the four lag bolts are installed, drive in a couple of 3 screws through the lower back rail into the seat center support (#10b, not shown). Project Completion: End grain contacting damp earth is the worst possible scenario for wood to rot. Position your completed project on concrete blocks or bricks set into the earth, protruding slightly above the surface. Finish the project with a protective wood finish of your choice. If the arbor will be subject to strong winds, you may wish to anchor it down to the ground. The bench version is less likely to move in high wind, but it may tend to slide off the concrete blocks in use.

COMPLIMENTARY WOODWORKING PLAN

COMPLIMENTARY WOODWORKING PLAN COFFEE TABLE PLAN This downloadable plan is copyrighted. Please do not share or redistribute this plan in any way. It has been paid for on your behalf by JET Tools, a division