Darjeeling Coach 4-Wheel First/Second Class

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Barnard Britton Boone
5 years ago
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Darjeeling Coach 4-Wheel First/Second Class Introduction This kit was designed in 16mm scale from early Darjeeling drawings and photographs. It uses brass castings available from Brandbright.

Please take time to read through the manual before construction begins to become familiar with the construction process.

1 Darjeeling Coach 4-Wheel First/Second Class Introduction This kit was designed in 16mm scale from early Darjeeling drawings and photographs. It uses brass castings available from Brandbright. The instructions include several photographs to aid in placement and alignment of parts. Please take time to read through the manual before construction begins to become familiar with the construction process. It is usually easier to stain or paint each part before assembly so a few moments spent visualizing the final paint scheme is worthwhile. It is generally accepted that the prototype coach was finished in a chocolate brown with white or cream colored panels. Safety You are responsible for the safe use of tools and materials used to build this model. Read and follow the manufacture s warnings and wear eye protection. This kit contains small parts and is not intended for children.

Assembly Instructions 1.) Begin construction by locating the notched 1/16 ply sub floor (part #1) and 1/16 floor (with the door guides) (part #2).

) Locate the 1/8 notched plywood solebars (part #3) and end beams (part #4).

Note that the solebars have the holes for the axleguards predrilled slightly undersized. They will need to be opened out a bit to fit the brass axle castings.

Add the 2 outer 1/8 frames (part # 5). 3.) Assemble the axleguard castings. They may need some fettling for a smooth fit.

2 Assembly Instructions 1.) Begin construction by locating the notched 1/16 ply sub floor (part #1) and 1/16 floor (with the door guides) (part #2). Stain the floor and laminate these pieces together using wood glue such as Tightbond. Weight this assembly on a flat surface to insure against warpage. 2.) Locate the 1/8 notched plywood solebars (part #3) and end beams (part #4). The inner square notches in the end beam allow for 32mm gauge spacing while the outer notches are designed for 45mm gauge. Note that the solebars have the holes for the axleguards predrilled slightly undersized. They will need to be opened out a bit to fit the brass axle castings. A #44 drill bit will do the job nicely. With the axleguard holes facing away from the sub floor, glue the frame together and weight until cured. Add the 2 outer 1/8 frames (part # 5). 3.) Assemble the axleguard castings. They may need some fettling for a smooth fit. If necessary, file the mating face of the journal box so that the bushing is perpendicular to the sides. Before final assembly, be certain that the axleguard has a free sliding fit. Drill out the casting with a #56 bit to provide clearance for the retaining bar. With the spring in its alignment hole, slip the journal box in place followed by the retaining bar. This can be glued in position or it can be carefully peened over with pliers.

4.) Sand and paint the 2 end walls (part #6).The center wall is assembled by laminating the 2 scribed 1/32 parts together (part #7). 5.) The side walls are constructed from 4 layers.

It is easier to stain and paint the panels and trim before all this is laminated together. Start with the outer Layer one by painting this a dark chocolate brown.

3 4.) Sand and paint the 2 end walls (part #6).The center wall is assembled by laminating the 2 scribed 1/32 parts together (part #7). 5.) The side walls are constructed from 4 layers. Begin with the outer layer one (part #8) and layer two (part #9) which are precut from 1/64 ply. They are then laminated together using carpenter s wood glue and weighted on a flat surface. It is easier to stain and paint the panels and trim before all this is laminated together. Start with the outer Layer one by painting this a dark chocolate brown. Layer two is then masked off to paint the ivory colored panels. Laminate layer (1) and (2) together taking great care to avoid excess glue blobs. A dull hobby knife with a blunted point makes a great tool to carefully scoop excess glue that may seep out to spoil the finish. Once the excess glue is tidy, weight this on a flat surface until cured. 6.) Layer three (part# 10) is precut from 1/32 ply and is the window carrier. Laminate this to the wall assembly being certain to achieve good alignment as each layer is added. Note that this layer is shorter and will form a slot for the end walls to fit into with alignment tabs.

7.) With the window glazing in place, laminate layer four (part #11) to the side wall assembly being certain to achieve good alignment once again. 8.

Layer two (part #13), Layer three (part #14) and Layer four (part #15) Add the handrails by drilling #51 through the pre-located marks in layer (1). 9.

Add the center interior wall with the assistance of the floor tabs. 10.) The doors are installed in their lower tracks and held in position with the upper guides.

4 7.) With the window glazing in place, laminate layer four (part #11) to the side wall assembly being certain to achieve good alignment once again. 8.) The doors are assembled in the same manner as the sides. Layer one (part #12) has markings to drill holes for the door handles and is set up for right and left sides. Layer two (part #13), Layer three (part #14) and Layer four (part #15) Add the handrails by drilling #51 through the pre-located marks in layer (1). 9.) The coach body is assembled around the frame by aligning the notches and tabs. Clamps make the job easier. Take care that everything is lined up squarely and glue in place. Add the center interior wall with the assistance of the floor tabs. 10.) The doors are installed in their lower tracks and held in position with the upper guides. The guides are assembled from parts #16 and #17. A small drop of oil applied to the lower and upper tracks will help the doors slide smoothly. With the door in place, glue the upper door guide to the coach wall being careful not to get any glue on the door or in the track. I find it easiest to tack glue the guide in place for alignment. Once the door is sliding smoothly, apply a fillet of 5 minute epoxy to the upper guide for durability.

11.) Assemble the bench seating from parts, #23, 24, and 25. Then install as shown. Be sure that the doors have clearance with the benches. 12.) The roof is made up in 2 layers.

Be sure that the edge runs true along the side of the coach. Slow curing thick cyanoacrylate works well for this application.

5 11.) Assemble the bench seating from parts, #23, 24, and 25. Then install as shown. Be sure that the doors have clearance with the benches. 12.) The roof is made up in 2 layers. The inner layer (part #18) is notched. Glue the inner roof to the coach body by lining up the notches with the tabs on the end and center walls. Be sure that the edge runs true along the side of the coach. Slow curing thick cyanoacrylate works well for this application. The outer layer (part #19) can then be glued with carpenter s wood glue to the inner layer and held in place with clamps. *A simulated tar paper roof can be done with spray paint using the following procedure. This painting should be done and allowed to dry before the outer roof is glued in place. Start by giving one side a coat of primer. Let dry and apply a second coat of primer. This should allow the wood grain to be filled and disappear. When dry, apply a coat of flat black and allow drying again. Next, mist the roof with primer by holding the can no closer than 18 away. A very light application is all that is needed. Do the same thing again by misting with the flat black. This process is repeated 2-3 times to build up a patina on the piece. A final mist of flat gray will add another layer. Once dry, give the roof a coat matte acrylic clear or Testor s Dullcoat TM for durability.* 13.) Paint and install the end fascia (part #20). 14.) Paint and install the upper and lower side fascia. (part #21). 15.) Install the upper end fascia (part #22) 16.) Test fit the axleguards to the solebars, then glue in place with the wheels installed. Be sure that the faces of the bushings on the journals are aligned with the wheels. A free rolling fit is the desired result.

17.) Install the couplers on the end of the wagon.

The link and pin drawbars are allowed to pivot and are held in place with a small wood screw.

It is also helpful to blunt the end of the wood screw before final installation so that it

) The long brass handrails can be installed using the laser scribed marks as a guide.

6 17.) Install the couplers on the end of the wagon. They can be glued in place with epoxy reinforced with small brass nails or screws. The link and pin drawbars are allowed to pivot and are held in place with a small wood screw. Be careful not to drill through the deck. It is also helpful to blunt the end of the wood screw before final installation so that it does not penetrate the deck. 18.) The long brass handrails can be installed using the laser scribed marks as a guide. These should be drilled out with a #51 bit. 19.) Assemble and install the safety chains castings as shown. Measure.930 from the sides and drill the ends of the coach #48 for the safety chains. The chain holder is located.860 from the bottom edge and is drilled #56.

20.) Add the retaining chain for the link and pin.

Finally, step back to admire your creation and have

7 20.) Add the retaining chain for the link and pin. It may be helpful to widen the small chain links with a safety pin to allow the brass rings to be slipped through. Finally, step back to admire your creation and have fun! Twin Mountain Model Works P.O. Box San Angelo, Texas

8 Parts List

7/8n2 Scale Plantation Coach

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