Training Ultimaker 3 to end-user

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1 Training Ultimaker 3 to end-user Hand-out Creation of the Ultimaker Training Program V1.1

2 Table of contents 3D print basics Setting up your Ultimaker 3 Features explained Calibrations Materials Cura Maintenance ESD safety Support

3 3D printing basics How does a 3D printer work? The Ultimaker 3 is an FDM 3D printer. FDM stands for Fused Deposition Modeling. It is the 3D printing technique of putting multiple layers of melted plastic on top of each other to create a 3D object. The Ultimaker 3 contains several systems that work together during printing: The extrusion mechanism The gantry system The Z stage The UltiController Extrusion mechanism The extrusion mechanism is basically the path the filament travels through the printer. It enters in the feeders, which grip the filament and transport it up through the bowden tubes. The bowden tubes guide the filament to the print head and into the print cores. The filament only gets heated up in the heater block, right at the bottom of the print core. The filament then exits through the small opening of the nozzle. The fan at the front cools the print cores, to make sure that the filament does not get hot above the heater block, and the fans at the side make sure that the filament is cooled down as soon as it is deposited. This ensures optimal print quality Feeders The feeders grip and forward the filament Bowden Tubes The bowden tubes guide the filament to the print head. 3. Print Head The print cores heat up and extrude the filament. 1

4 Gantry system The print head moves around on the gantry system. This consists of two motors (one for movements in the X direction, one for Y), belts, pulleys and axles. The motors are connected to the axles with belts and pulleys. Because all of the axles are also connected with belts, when the motor moves, the corresponding axles also move and thereby controlling the position of the print head. Z stage The print head always stays at the same height. When one layer of the print is finished, the Z stage moves down to allow the next later to be put down. The Z stage, or build plate, slides over the two vertical Z axles, but the movement is controlled by the long lead screw. This is connected to the Z motor Z stage The Z-stage consists of the build plate, heated bed and glass plate. 2. Z axles The Z stage slides up and down over these two vertical axles Lead screw The lead screw is connected to the Z motor and controls the movement of the Z stage. UltiController You can control the printer through the UltiController in the front of the printer. This controller has: a USB port. On the USB stick you save the printable files. a display, from which you can read information. and a rotate and click button, with which you can scroll through the Ultimaker s menu and give the printer commands. 2

5 USB port The gcodes on the USB stick contain instructions for the printer. 2. Display Find the menus and read information about the printer s status. 1. Controller button Rotate and click the button to scroll through the menus. During a print, all of these systems combined are controlled by the information on the USB stick or the information send through wifi. The printable files are so-called gcodes. The gcode is a set of instructions for the printer: where to place the print head, the position of the build plate, how much filament should be extruded, etc. A 3D design is turned into a gcode by the software program Cura. Later on you will learn how this works. 3

6 Setting up the Ultimaker 3 Unboxing The Ultimaker comes in reusable, durable packaging, specially designed to protect your Ultimaker 3. To properly unpack your Ultimaker 3 the following steps must be taken: 1. Take the Ultimaker 3 out of the cardboard box. 2. Loosen the strap by opening the buckle. 3. Remove the top part of the styrofoam packaging with the two spools of filament and factory test print in it. 4. Take out the accessory box. 5. Remove the styrofoam part that is placed at the front bottom side of the Ultimaker Take the Ultimaker 3, remove the bottom styrofoam part and place the Ultimaker 3 on a flat surface. 7. Manually lift the build plate and remove the packaging material under the build plate. 8. Cut the zip tie that secures the print head. 4

7 Installation Before the Ultimaker 3 can be used three accessories must be installed. Spool holder with NFC 1. Gently place the printer on its left side. 2. Insert the spool holder into the back panel. First place the top part in the hole and push down until it snaps into place. 3. Connect the NFC cable to the NFC socket. The flat side of the connector faces away from the bottom panel. 4. Guide the NFC cable through the slot in the back panel. 5. Insert the cable cover into the back panel to keep the cable in place. 6. Gently place the Ultimaker upright. Placing the glass plate 1. Open the two build plate clamps at the front of the build plate. 2. Gently slide the glass plate onto the build plate and ensure that it snaps into the build plate clamps at the back. 3. Close the two build plate clamps at the front to secure the glass plate. 5

8 Connecting the power supply 1. Connect the power cable to the power brick. 2. Plug the power cable into the wall socket. 3. Connect the other side of the power supply to the Ultimaker 3. The flat side of the connector needs to point downwards. Before you push the cable firmly into the port, you have to pull the sliding mechanism back. When the cord is in the printer you can let go to lock it into place. Set up for first use Once all the accessories are installed, the Ultimaker 3 can be turned on with the power switch at the back. For the first use the Ultimaker 3 will guide you through a welcome wizard to properly set it up. This setup exists of the following steps: print core installation, loading materials and WiFi and firmware installation. Before you continue, it may be wise to explain that you can navigate through the menus by clicking or rotating the button at the front side. After this you can go through all the menus, while doing what the printer is telling you. Print core installation The first step of the welcome wizard is installing the second print core. As you can see one print core (AA) is already pre-installed in print head slot 1. This means that only the second print core in print head slot 2 has to be inserted. If you follow the texts on the display, you will have to take the following steps: 1. Open the print head fan bracket and press Continue. 2. The Ultimaker 3 will now automatically detect the print core (AA) that is placed in print head slot Confirm to continue. 4. Install the BB print core in print head slot 2 by squeezing the levers of the print core and sliding it into the print head. Also explain here that the chip on the back side of the print core should not be touched as this can cause connection problems later on. 5. The Ultimaker 3 should now automatically detect the print core (BB) that is placed in print head slot Confirm to continue. 7. Close the print head fan bracket and confirm to proceed with the setup procedure. 6

9 Loading materials Before you can start printing on the Ultimaker 3, you need to load materials into the printer. Material 2 will be loaded first, because this is the material that must be placed closest to the back side of the printer. Loading material 2: 1. Place the spool of PVA on the spool holder. Make sure to put it with the material in clockwise direction, so that the material can enter feeder 2 from the bottom. Straighten the material a bit so it can easily enter the feeder. 2. Wait until the Ultimaker 3 has detected the material (when using Ultimaker material). 3. Insert the end of the material into feeder 2 and gently push it until the material is grabbed by the feeder and is visible in the bowden tube. 4. Wait for the Ultimaker 3 to heat up print core 2 and to load the material into the print head. 5. Confirm when the new material extrudes from the print head. 6. Wait a moment for print core 2 to cool down. Loading material 1: 1. Take the material guide and hold it with the outer part towards you. 2. Place the spool of PLA on the material guide with the material in counter-clockwise direction. 3. Guide the end of the material through the hole in the material guide. When you have done this, select continue. 4. Place the material guide - with material 1 on it - on the spool holder, behind material 2 and wait until it is detected by the printer. 5. Insert the end of the material into feeder 1 and gently push it until the material is grabbed by the feeder and is visible in the bowden tube. 6. Wait for the Ultimaker 3 to heat up print core 1 and to load the material into the print head. 7. Confirm when the new material extrudes from the print head. 8. Wait a moment for print core 1 to cool down. 7

10 Installing WiFi and firmware The Ultimaker 3 allows for printing wireless over a network. Therefore the next step is to connect your Ultimaker 3 to a network. Setting up WiFi: 1. Wait until your Ultimaker 3 has created a WiFi hotspot. This can take a minute. 2. Move to your computer and connect it to the wireless network of the printer. The name of the net work is shown on the display of the Ultimaker A pop-up will appear on the display of your computer. Follow the steps to connect the Ultimaker 3 to your local WiFi network. The pop-up will disappear when you have completed these steps. Updating the firmware: As a last step the Ultimaker 3 will check if the latest firmware is installed. If not, it will get the latest firmware from the network and install it. This will take several minutes. 8

11 Features explained The Ultimaker 3 has many new innovative features. Learn how they work and what they do. Build volumes Print head Nozzle lifting system Excellent cooling Silicone cover Capacative sensor Print head overview 9

12 Nozzle lifting The Ultimaker 3 has a nozzle lifting system to ensure that the inactive nozzle is out of the way while the other one is printing. The first print core is fixed in place, while the second print core can be raised or lowered. The Ultimaker 3 does this by moving the print head towards the switch bay, which places the lifting switch to the front or back. Lifting switch Switch bay Excellent cooling The print head of the Ultimaker 3 has three fans. The two radial fans at the side cool the model during printing for optimal surface quality. The front fan cools the print cores, to ensure that the heat does not travel too far upwards Side fan The axial fan in the front bracket cools the print cores above the heatbreaks 2. Front fan The radial fans at the side cool the model while it is printed. 10

13 Capacitive sensor The capacitive sensor is located at the bottom of the print head. This sensor is what enables active leveling. Silicone cover The silicone cover closes up the bottom of the print head. It protects the print cores from two things: Backflow of the material Airflow from the fans Print cores The Ultimaker 3 comes with two different types of print cores. The AA print core is for build material, the BB print core is optimised for printing support material. The difference is the internal geometry. Print core compatibility table AA BB PLA ABS CPE Nylon PVA The AA print core has a small horizontal part in the the tip. This ensures higher precision and reduces oozing. The BB core is designed to ensure an easy flow of the material to prevent nozzle clogs. That is why this core does not have the flat part. Electronics The Ultimaker 3 has multiple electronics boards facilitate and and automate several processes. Below is a list of all electronics: Print core PCB NFC antenna Olimex board 4. Ultimainboard 5. Electronics overview 5. UltiController 11

14 Print core pcb: This stores information about the type of print core and the runtime statistics. NFC antenna: This small pcb in the spool holder recognises which materials are loaded and how much is left on the spool. Olimex board: The Olimex is the brain of the Ultimaker 3, containing a full Linux system. Ultimainboard: Not actually the main board; it follow instructions from the Olimex and mainly does motion planning and temperature control. UltiController: This passes on the information from the user (USB, button, display) to the Olimex. Feeder The two geared feeders have been optimized for reliability. The gears ensure an excellent grip on the filament during feeding and it is very easy to choose the correct pressure for your filament Feeder adjustment screw Turn this screw to increase or decrease the feeder tension Tension indicator The indicator higher means less tension, lower means more tension. 3. Knurled wheel The knurled wheel grips and forward the filament Feeder lever Pull the lever up to release all tension on the filament. 5. Filament entry Insert the filament here and push until the knurled wheel gets a grips on the material. Feeder overview 12

15 Calibrations To ensure that you get the most out of your Ultimaker 3, it is important that it is calibrated properly. There are several calibrations available, this section explains about all of them. Bed leveling Correct bed leveling is very important to ensure a high success rate of your prints. If the distance between the nozzles and build plate is too big, your print won t stick properly to the glass plate. On the other hand, if the nozzles are too close to the build plate, it can prevent the material extruding from the nozzles. NOTE: Make sure there is no plastic on the nozzles and the glass plate is clean before calibrating the build plate, otherwise your leveling may not be accurate. Active leveling Enabling active leveling is recommended. During active leveling, the Ultimaker 3 will measure the distance between the tip of the nozzle and the glass plate in several locations. These positions are stored in the printer, so it can compensate for inaccuracies of the build plate level during the first layers of the print. It will do this by slightly moving the build plate up or down while printing. To start the active leveling procedure: 1. Go to System > Build plate > Active leveling. 2. Wait for the printer to finish the leveling procedure. This will take a couple of minutes. 3. Select the frequency for active leveling. CAUTION: Don t touch the Ultimaker 3 during the active leveling procedure. This could affect the measurements. Manual leveling The Ultimaker 3 is shipped pre-calibrated, so manual leveling is not necessary out of the box. However, if the level of the build plate is off too much active leveling cannot compensate for this. In this case you can manually level the build plate. The Ultimaker 3 will guide you through this process step by step. To start the manual leveling procedure: 1. Go to System > Build plate > Manual leveling. 2. Wait for the Ultimaker 3 to do its homing procedure and continue when the print head is in the center at the back of the build plate. Now simply follow the instructions provided by the printer. Rough leveling: 1. Rotate the button at the front until there is approximately 1 mm distance between the first nozzle and the build plate. Make sure that the nozzle is close to the build plate without touching it. 2. Adjust the front right and front left build plate screw to roughly level the build plate at the front side. Again there should be a distance of approximately 1 mm between the nozzle and build plate. Fine-tuning 1. Place the calibration card in between the nozzle and build plate when the print head is in the center back of the build plate. 2. Adjust the build plate screw in the middle back until you feel slight friction when moving the card. 3. Press Continue and repeat these steps for the second and third point. 13

16 After calibrating the build plate with the first nozzle, the second nozzle needs to be aligned as well, to ensure the heights of both nozzles are set correctly. For this it is only necessary to set the correct height by using the calibration card. Place the calibration card between the second nozzle and build plate. Rotate the button at the front of the Ultimaker 3 until it touches the calibration card and fine-tune it until you feel slight friction/resistance when moving the card. Press the button to confirm and complete the calibration process. CAUTION: Do not push on the build plate while fine-tuning with the calibration card. This will lead to inaccuracies. Z offset calibration The last part of the manual leveling procedure is the Z offset calibration. This ensures that the correct vertical distance between the two nozzles is stored. This procedure can also be done separately. Go to System > Maintenance > Calibration > Calibrate XY offset. Place the calibration card between the second nozzle and build plate. Rotate the button at the front of the Ultimaker 3 until it touches the calibration card and fine-tune it until you feel slight friction/resistance when moving the card. XY offset calibration Besides the vertical offset, the horizontal distance between the nozzles, in the X and Y direction, also needs to be stored. The print cores that are supplied with the Ultimaker 3 are already calibrated. This is only necessary for new combinations. A correct XY calibration will ensure that the two colors or materials align well. To do the calibration you will need the XY calibration sheet, which you can find in the accessory box. You also need to make sure two print cores and materials are loaded. To start the calibration: 1. Go to System > Maintenance > Calibration > Calibrate XY offset. 2. The Ultimaker 3 will now print a grid structure on the build plate. Wait until it is finished. 3. Once the Ultimaker 3 has cooled down, remove the glass plate from the printer and place it on the XY calibration sheet. Ensure the printed grid it is exactly placed on the two rectangles on the sheet. 4. Find the aligned lines on the printed X grid and look which number belongs to these lines. Enter this number as the X offset value on your Ultimaker Find the aligned lines on the printed Y grid and look which number belongs to these lines. Enter this number as the Y offset value on your Ultimaker 3. 14

17 Switch bay calibration The switch bay is what enables the lifting and lowering of the second print core. For successful dual extrusion prints, it is important that the switching functions well. The switch bay is already calibrated when the Ultimaker 3 is shipped, but the calibration can also be done manually. 1. Go to System > Maintenance > Calibration > Calibrate lift switch 2. Move the lift switch on the side of the print head to point towards you. 3. Move the print head so that the lift switch fits in the switching bay. 4. Wait for the print head to go to the home position and test the lift switch. 5. Did the lift switch lower and raise the print core? If so, press yes to complete the calibration. If not, select no to perform the calibration again. 15

18 Materials Ultimaker materials The Ultimaker 3 officially supports the use of the following materials: PLA (polylactic acid) ABS (acrylonitrile butadiene styrene) CPE (co-polyester) Nylon (polyamide) PVA (polyvinyl alcohol) All Ultimaker certified materials have a diameter of 2.85 mm and are of high quality to ensure reliable printing and high quality prints. The Ultimaker 3 has an open filament system which allows for the use of other materials as well, but this is not officially supported since Ultimaker cannot guarantee the quality of these materials. All Ultimaker materials have been tested extensively and have optimized profiles in the Cura software to ensure the best print result. Using Ultimaker materials will also allow you to benefit from the NFC detection system. Ultimaker spools will automatically be recognized by the Ultimaker 3 and this information can be directly transferred to Cura when connected via the network. This allows for a seamless connection between the printer and Cura software. Material combinations If you want to print with two materials on the Ultimaker 3, the following material combinations are officially supported: PLA - PVA Nylon - PVA PLA - PLA ABS - ABS CPE - CPE Other combinations may work as well, but are not officially supported by Ultimaker because they do not print as reliably as the above combinations. Printing unsupported material combinations is experimental and means that you have to develop/optimize Cura settings yourself. Material properties PLA PLA is a commonly used material as it is easy to print with and has great aesthetic qualities. These are the main properties of PLA: Good surface quality Allows creation of high resolution parts Good tensile strength ABS ABS is a well-known material used by professionals for mechanical and technical applications. Ultimaker ABS has the following characteristics: Excellent mechanical properties Good durability Thermal resistance of up to 85 C Specifically formulated to minimize warping CPE Another material that can be used for many mechanical applications is CPE. The most important properties of CPE are: 16

19 High tensile strength Good dimensional stability Chemical resistant Thermal resistance of up to 70 C Low emission of UFPs and VOCs Nylon Nylon is a material that is often used for 3D printing tools, prototypes, etc. It has several characteristics that make nylon an interesting material to use for this. Reasons to choose Ultimaker Nylon are: Impact resistant Durable and abrasion resistant Slightly flexible Reduced humidity absorption PVA PVA is the material that can be used for printing support structures on the Ultimaker 3. It has the following properties: Water soluble Good thermal stability Less moisture sensitive than other PVA filaments Biodegradable How to print? Temperature settings Below you can find an overview of the recommended temperature and cooling settings for the Ultimaker materials on the Ultimaker 3. Cura will automatically use the right settings when you use one of the predefined profiles in Cura, so there is no need to set these manually. Material Nozzle temperature ( C) Build plate temperature ( C) PLA ABS CPE Nylon PVA Adhesion methods For all the materials that are currently used on the Ultimaker 3 (PLA, ABS, CPE, Nylon and PVA) it is recommended to apply a thin layer of glue to the glass plate. This will not only lead to a good adhesion, but specifically for ABS and CPE it will also work as a protective layer for the glass plate. Furthermore, it is advised to print all materials with a brim as platform adhesion type. A brim will print some extra lines of plastic around the object on the first layer to let the model adhere well and to minimize warping. This setting is selected by default in all the Cura profiles for these materials on the Ultimaker 3. Dissolving PVA Prints for which PVA has been used as support material require some post-processing to remove the PVA support material. This can be done by dissolving the PVA in water. To do that, you can follow these steps: 1. Submerge the print in water to slowly dissolve the PVA. 2. Rinse the 3D print with water to remove any excess PVA. 3. Let the 3D print dry. 17

20 4. Dispose the waste water through the drain (check local regulations for concise guidance) and let hot water from the tap run for approximately 30 seconds to remove any excess saturated PVA water. It is possible to use the water for more than one print, however, this might extend the dissolving time. Through repeated use, the water becomes saturated by previously dissolved PVA, so for the quickest result, fresh water is recommended. Storing materials Correct handling and storage of the materials is very important to keep them in optimal condition. When stored incorrectly this may cause the material to lose quality over time. Some materials may become brittle when handled or stored incorrectly and others may absorb too much moisture. To keep your filaments in optimal condition it is important that you keep them: Dry and cool Out of direct sunlight In a resealable bag (when not in use) The optimal storage temperature for PLA, CPE and Nylon is between -20 to +30 C. For ABS and PVA the advised temperature is between 15 and 25 C. Furthermore a relative humidity of below 50% is recommended for PVA. You can store the filament in the cardboard box it came in, including the supplied desiccant (silica gel). For PVA it is advised to store the spool in a resealable bag with the supplied desiccant after printing to minimize moisture uptake. 18

21 Cura The keypoint of Ultimaker s approach to 3D printing, is not only to deliver the best machine on the market, but to sell it as a complete solution. To get most out of every Ultimaker 3D printer, we created our own software suite for best compatibility with the hardware and materials. Network setup Ultimaker 3 Before starting Cura, you are going to connect the Ultimaker 3 to Cura over the local network. You will need the Ultimaker 3 and the laptop to establish the connection. Begin on the Ultimaker In the menu, go to Maintenance -> Network. 2. The Ultimaker 3 can be set up over LAN or WiFi, make sure it is set to: WiFi. 3. Run the WiFi setup The ultimaker 3 creates a WiFi hotspot for your computer to connect with. The name of the network that is created, is displayed on the Ultimaker 3 display. This hotspot is a peer-to-peer connection in which your laptop connects directly to the Ultimaker 3, without any local network in between. We need to continue on the computer now. 1. Go to the WiFi manager in your operating system and search for the available (new) network that the Ultimaker 3 created. 2. Connect to the network and wait for it to connect. 3. A pop-up window appears: The ultimaker connection wizard. If the Ultimaker 3 connection wizard does not run, open a browser and go to 4. Follow the onscreen instructions. You will have to select your local network and enter that pass word if asked. 5. On the last step the windows closes automatically and the Ultimaker 3 will connect to your local network. Check if the laptop automatically reconnects to the local network as well. That was the only step needed to connect the Ultimaker 3 to the local network! First run Cura When you open Cura for the first time, you will automatically enter the Add printer wizard, which is used to set up the Ultimaker machine to use with Cura. Open Cura. Select the Ultimaker 3 in the list to set it up automatically. A pop-up menu shows up, asking you to connect to a network printer! A list appears with available Ultimaker 3 machines on the network. There s an option to refresh the list if necessary. Select the Ultimaker 3 and click finish. 19

22 1. List of available Ultimakers 3 on the network. 2. Add: Click this button only if your Ultimaker 3 is not available in the list. 3. Refresh: If your Ultimaker 3 does not show, please click refresh to see if it appears. 4. Connect: Once your Ultimaker 3 is selected, click here to connect it. Cura gives a pop-up message giving the following warning: The Nozzles and/or materials on the Ultimaker 3 machine do not correspond with the Cura settings. Do you want to synchronize them now? This means Cura is synchronizing the nozzle and material information with the Ultimaker 3. Since this is a first run the nozzle and materials in the Ultimaker 3 differ from the Cura setup. Click Yes to synchronize the Ultimaker 3 with Cura. At this point the information is sent from the Ultimaker 3 to Cura by WiFi. This way, Cura synchronizes its settings with the machine, leaving no room for user error. The right material profile is used to create the perfect slice. Another notification is present in Cura, in the bottom of the screen. It says: Access to the printer requested, accept to verify connection. Go to the Ultimaker 3 and accept the access request. The Ultimaker 3 is now fully connected and synchronized with Cura. 20

23 Interface overview To start working with software it is extremely useful to know where all the elements are in the interface. The sidebar The entire right side of Cura, which includes the machine settings, profile settings and print settings is what we call the Sidebar. It basically contains all the possible settings at which your model in the 3D viewer is going to be sliced. Printer monitor The connection status between Cura and the Ultimaker 3 is visualized in the top right corner of the sidebar. The printer icon should have a green checkmark next to it. Click on the 3D printer icon in the top right to open the Printer monitor. Not surprising, the printer monitor is meant to monitor your printer! This is done in real time over WiFi. It Displays what the camera sees, along with some other important information. 21

24 1. Shows the name of the currently visible Ultimaker A live feed of the temperatures of the Ultimaker 3; both print cores and the build plate. 3. The print job status, showing; job name, printing time and estimated time left. 4. Print settings: Click here to return to the print settings. 5. Printer status: Green checkmark = ready, blue dots = printing / busy. 6. Indicates the current print job progress. 7. The pause button allows to pause the printer remotely. 8. The abort button allows to abort the printer. Machine settings The Ultimaker 3 has dual extrusion, which needs two extruders to be set up correctly. Per extruder we can set the Print Core and material type. This is important, when either in recommended or custom mode, the setup in Cura should always match the actual Ultimaker 3 to make sure the profiles are set correctly. 1. Machine: Of Course, you must have an Ultimaker 3 selected. 2. Extruder: The extruder tab shows the current active extruder selected. 3. Print core: The current print core in extruder Material: Select the material that is loaded in extruder 1. Cura can synchronize with the Ultimaker 3 automatically, just like it did on first setup. When the Ultimaker 3 is network connected, the option automatic is available for the Print Cores and materials. Go to extruder 1, Print Core. Click to change it and view the automatic option. Printing profiles As mentioned in the machine settings, printing profiles are based on the machine configuration. The profiles, which are fully visible in custom mode, are a set of 240+ settings which have been tweaked to its maximum potential by the Ultimaker materials team. The combination of these 240+ settings ensures printing with maximum quality and reliability. There are multiple qualities of profiles available per printer, easily accesible to choose. For now we ll work with the recommended mode, which means the individual settings are not visible. When you get more knowledge on the individual settings, you can start editing them to meet your custom needs. Once a custom profile is created, you can easily; save, rename, export and import them. This makes it easy too organize and share them with others, right from within Cura. To make sure every model is printable, there are helper parts available in recommended mode. They consist of infill, enable support and build plate adhesion. 22

25 1. Profile: Select the desired printing profile, indicated with the layer height. 2. Print setup: Select the recommended mode, custom mode shows all individual settings. 3. Infill: Select, based on the profile, how the infill is printed. More infill provides strength, less infill prints faster. 4. Enable support: Choose whether you want to support overhangs and bridges in the print. 5. Support extruder: Choose which print core prints the support structure. 6. Build plate adhesion: Choose if extra adhesion is desired, it is turned on by default. Printing workflows PLA-PVA soluble support print 1. Load a model file by clicking the Open File icon (top left corner). The file browser displays all files. Cura supports the following files:.3mf,.x3d,.stl and.obj. After selecting a model, it automatically appears on the build plate. To create a connection between the customer and the training, load a 3D model that is relevant to the customer (user case). 23

26 2. Adjustment Tools can be used to position, scale and rotate the object. To use the Adjustment Tools, left click on the Model. As the engineering model needs to be strong, it must be rotated to ensure the layer bonding is strongest in the desired direction. 3. In the sidebar, check the Print Core and Materials. When the printer has PLA-PVA loaded, this is okay. If not, set extruders accordingly: Print core 1 AA, PLA. Print core 2 BB, PVA. 4. You have to select a profile to print this model with. Depending on the purpose of the model, choose a profile that fits it. Examples: Prototype -> Fast print, End part -> High quality. 5. Select Helper Parts on the Sidebar. Set the desired strength and choose the print core for Support: print support using natural PVA (Print core 2). 6. Now that all the machine, profile and printer settings are set, you can go to the layer view. 7. You can check the layer view to get an idea of the printing strategy. In the bottom right corner of the 3D viewer is an indication on the print time and material usage. 8. Print! 24

27 PLA-PLA dual color print 1. To create a dual color print, two model files (exported to fit together) are required. This is necessary to assign the two colors to the objects. Click the open file icon in the top left to load the 3D model for two colors. 2. In the sidebar, check the Print Core and Materials. When printing a dual color PLA print, the Print Cores should be set: Extruder 1: Print Core AA 0.4, PLA (color 1) Extruder 2: Print Core AA 0.4, PLA (color 2) 3. All loaded objects are printed with Print core 1 by default. The material color set per Print Core reflects the color of the corresponding model. Left click the model you want to print with extruder 2. On the left side of the 3D viewer, click the per model settings icon. Now you can choose which extruder to print it with, change it from extruder 1 to extruder After selecting the desired color for your Models, it s time to merge them. Hold shift and left click to select all models. When all models are selected (shown by a blue outline), right click and select Merge Objects. The models automatically merge, ready for dual printing. 25

28 5. Now that the models are merged, Cura will treat them as one, making it easy to use the Adjustment Tools. Left click the model to start using the tools. As the PLA model needs to look good, scale and rotate the model in a way it needs the least amount of support. 6. You have to select a profile to print this model with. Depending on the purpose of the model, choose a profile that fits it. Examples: Visual aid -> Fast print, End part -> High quality. 7. Select Helper Parts on the Sidebar. Since you use PLA in both extruders, you can print the supports with either of the two colors of PLA. A brim is recommended to ensure the model does not warp of the build plate. 8. You can check the layer view to get an idea of the printing strategy. When in the sidebar extruder 1 is selected, the part of the model printed with this extruder is highlighted. Change to extruder 2 to highlight the other part of the print. 9. Print! 26

29 Maintenance Correct maintenance of your Ultimaker 3 helps to keep it in perfect condition. Taking care of your Ultimaker will also prevent problems before they arise. Firmware Since the software controls the hardware, it is important to keep this up to date. Periodically, a new firmware version is released. To ensure that your Ultimaker 3 is equipped with the latest features, always use the latest firmware version. You can install firmware in the Ultimaker 3 menu, when the printer is connected over network, or via USB: Updating on the printer 1. Connect the printer to the network via WiFi or Ethernet. 2. Go to System > Maintenance > Update firmware. 3. Choose the Stable version. The Ultimaker 3 will now get the latest firmware from the network and install it. This will take several minutes. Updating via USB 1. Download the firmware file(s) from the Ultimaker website. 2. Put the firmware files on the USB stick. 3. Place the USB stick in the Ultimaker Go to System > Maintenance > Update firmware. 5. The Ultimaker 3 will detect it if there is a firmware file on the USB stick. Select the file to start the firmware update. Lubricating the axles To keep your Ultimaker 3 running smoothly it is advised to regularly lubricate the axles. Unilube and Magnalube can be found in the accessory box of the printer. X and Y axles Apply a small drop of Unilube to each of the X and Y axles and both the print head shafts. Manually move the print head around to equally distribute the oil. Do this approximately once a month, or when the axles feel dry. Z axles Unilube can also be applied to the Z axles. Put a single small drop on each of the axles. In the Ultimaker menu, go to System > Build plate. Select Raise and then Lower to move the build plate up and down to equally distribute the oil. Do this approximately once every six months, or when the axles feel dry. Lead screw Spread about ten drops of grease over the entire lead screw. Raise and lower the build plate through the menu again to equally distribute the grease. Do this approximately once every six months 27

30 CAUTION: Do not use Magnalube on the smooth axles, this will affect the working of your Ultimaker 3. Likewise, never use Unilube on the Z screw. NOTE: If dust or dirt has accumulated on the axles or lead screw, wipe them down first before applying the lubricants. Cleaning the printer For the best print results it is important to keep the Ultimaker 3 clean while using it. There are a few parts in the Ultimaker 3 that require regular cleaning. Glass plate For the best adhesion, it is recommended to regularly clean the glass plate and to apply a new layer of glue. Before doing this, make sure the glass plate has cooled down and the build plate is in the bottom position. Open the two build plate clamps at the front and remove the glass plate. Clean the glass with lukewarm water and dry it with a cloth. If necessary, you can also use some soap. Place the glass plate back onto the build plate and close the build plate clamps at the front side to secure it. CAUTION: Leaving the build plate clamps open may damage your Ultimaker 3 when the build plate is raised. Nozzles While using the Ultimaker 3 it can happen that the nozzle of a print core gets dirty by material that sticks to the nozzle. Although this will not damage your printer, it is recommended to try keeping the nozzle clean, in order to achieve the best print results. To remove plastic from the outside of a nozzle, it is advised to take the following steps: 1. Go to Material/Print core > Print core [1 / 2] > Set temperature and change the temperature to 150ºC. 2. Wait until the target temperature is reached and the plastic on the outside becomes soft. 3. When the nozzle is hot, carefully remove the material with tweezers. CAUTION: Do not touch the nozzle and be careful while cleaning it as it will become hot. 28

31 Feeder and bowden tube After many hours of printing, or when material has been ground down, there is a chance that there are small filament particles in the feeders. These can end up in the bowden tubes or hot end, so it is important to clean the feeder. This can be done by blowing the particles out of the feeders or by using a vacuum cleaner. If the particles are already stuck in the bowden tubes, clean these as well. To do so, the bowden tubes have to be removed from the printer. 1. First unload the material. 2. Remove the white clips from the print head and feeders. 3. Press down on the tube coupling collet in the print head and pull the bowden tube out. Do the same for the feeders. 4. Cut off a small piece from a clean, dry sponge or use a piece of tissue. 5. Insert this in the feeder end of the bowden tube. 6. Push it through with a length of filament (at least 80 cm). 7. Afterwards install the bowden tubes again and secure with the blue clips. NOTE: One side of the bowden tube is drilled. This end goes in the feeder to make inserting the filament easier. Inside of the printer Small pieces of material can gather inside the printer, including the initial extrusions. Remove these from the inside of the printer with a cloth or vacuum cleaner. CAUTION: Leaving larger objects on the bottom panel can lead to errors, as they prevent the build plate from homing properly. Tensioning the belts Maintaining proper tension on the short belts is important to ensure good print quality. If the belts are too loose, the movement of the print head may not be accurate. In turn, the dimensions of the print can be different from what you expect. Over time, the belts may get slightly slack. To restore the tension, perform the following steps: 1. Loosen the four bolts of the X motor, but don t take them out completely. 2. Firmly push down on the motor. 3. One by one, in a crosswise pattern, tighten the bolts again while still pushing down. 4. Repeat these steps for the Y motor, so that the tension is the same for both short belts. Unclogging the print cores For a correct extrusion it is important that the print cores remain clean on the inside. In case of a blockage or extrusion problems case it is recommended to clean the print core using the hot and cold pull method. Since PVA is more difficult to print with, this method is mostly used for maintaining the BB core. 29

32 Preparing 1. Remove or retract the filament. 2. Place the print head in the front right corner to prevent bending the axles. 3. Remove the white clip from the bowden tube and press down on the tube coupling collet to pull out the bowden tube. 4. Go to Material/PrintCore > PrintCore 2 (BB print core) > Set temperature and set the temperature to 230 C. Hot pull 1. Cut off a length of PLA (approximately 30 cm) and straighten it. 2. Insert this into the print head until you feel some resistance. 3. Hold the piece of PLA with pliers and apply pressure to the material for ±2 seconds. 4. Pull the material out with a quick, firm pull once the 2 seconds have passed. 5. Check the color and the shape of the tip of the material that you have pulled out Burnt PVA There is burnt material on the tip of the filament. Perform the hot pull again. 1. Clean tip The tip of the filament is completely clean. Proceed to the cold pull. Repeat these steps until the tip of the filament comes out clean. Cold pull 1. Take a new piece of PLA and insert it into the print head by hand until you feel some resistance. 2. Hold the piece of PLA with pliers and gently apply pressure to extrude some material. 3. Lower the temperature of the print core to 75 C. Keep pressure on the material with the pliers until the print core reaches a temperature of 120 C. NOTE: The slight pressure on the material while cooling down is required to prevent air from entering the nozzle. 4. Wait until the target temperature of 75 C is reached, then grab the material with pliers and pull it out with a quick, firm pull. The material should now look like this. 30

33 For cleaning the AA core, usually only the cold pull has to be performed to clear a blockage. Perform the cold pull with the last used filament. 1. Raise the nozzle temperature to the filament specific printing temperature. 2. Hold the filament with pliers and gently apply pressure to extrude some material. 3. Lower the nozzle temperature to approximately 20ºC above the filament s build plate temperature. 4. Wait until the target temperature is reached, then grab the material with pliers and pull it out with a quick, firm pull. When you are satisfied with the results, put the bowden tube back in place again and secure with the clamp clip. 31

34 ESD safety ESD stands for Electrostatic Discharge, in other words, it is the flow of electricity between two charged objects. The human body builds up such an electrostatic charge under normal circumstances (walking, getting up from your chair, etc). You probably know this from getting an electric shock from the door knob or another person. ESD can damage sensitive electronic components. The Ultimaker 3 contains many pcbs. Some small, some larger. Some accessible, some safely tucked away. To make sure that you don t damage any of these pcbs it is important to work in an ESD safe way when handling them. When working with the Ultimaker 3 in a normal way, you don t have to worry about ESD. Any charge that you may have built up is dispersed through the metal parts of the frame. However, the print cores, for example, have a pcb at the back. When handling the print core, make sure to only hold it in the proper way (by the lever) and don t directly touch the pcb at the back. For the other electronics, they are concealed by the covers. These only need to be exposed for repair or replacement. This should be done in an ESD safe environment, with additional precautions taken. Never remove the covers without contacting your local service provider first. Repair of replacement of the electronics should only be performed by a certified Ultimaker service provider. 32

35 Support By sharing information, it becomes easier for users to troubleshoot or solve their printer issues. The resource pages on the website are the place to get more operational information or get inspired by tips & tricks. By showing where to find all the information, it becomes easier for users to find the information themselves. Resources: Ultimaker 3 manual Get started Operation Maintenance Help & Support Additional information Cura FAQ User manual Materials Print guides per material Data sheets Community Ultimaker App As a user you can easily download the app, add your printers information and access all the resources on the website, offline in the app. From unboxing to troubleshooting. Users can also get the information from their local support partner. Safety and compliance The Ultimaker 3 has been extensively tested to make sure it is certified of the needed global labels. More information and downloadable documents are availale at the Safety & Compliance webpage from Ultimaker. Labels the Ultimaker 3 is certified for: VPAT (Voluntary product evaluation template) CE (EC declaration of conformity) MSDS (Material safety data sheet) Intended use Ultimaker 3D printers are designed and built for fused deposition modeling for various high quality plastics like PLA, ABS, CPE within a commercial/business environment. The mixture of precision and speed makes the Ultimaker 3D printers the perfect machines for concept models, functional prototypes and also the production of small series. Although we achieved a very high standard in the reproduction of 3D models with the usage of Cura, the user remains responsible to qualify and validate the application of the printed object for its intended use. While being an open filament platform the best results will be achieved with Ultimaker certified filament, while effort has been made in order to match material properties with machine settings. 33

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