photokaboom Learn Photography Home About Privacy, Etc. Ask Jim SarasotaPhotoLessons.com Lightroom > All Tutorials Combined > 5 - Develop Module

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1 1 of 59 12/19/2017, 1:04 PM photokaboom Learn Photography Home About Privacy, Etc. Ask Jim SarasotaPhotoLessons.com Lightroom > All Tutorials Combined > 5 - Develop Module 1 - Editing Principles 2 - Editing Order 3 - Panels in the Develop Module Basic Panel: 4 - White Balance Section 5 - Tone Section 6 - Presence Section 7 - Six Tools on Top of the Basic Panel Tool #1- Crop Overlay Tool #2- Spot Removal Tool #3- Red Eye Correction Tool #4- Graduated Filter Tool #5- Radial Filter Tool #6- Adjustment Brush 8 - Tone Curve Panel 9 - HSL / Color / B&W Panel 10 - Split Toning Panel 11 - Detail Panel 12 - Other Panels on the Right Side 13 - Panels on the Left Side

2 2 of 59 12/19/2017, 1:04 PM Develop Module > 1 - Editing Principles Reminder As mentioned, Lightroom never changes the pixels of your photograph files. When you're editing a photograph, Lightroom continually stores the editing instructions in the metadata file of the photograph. When you export the photograph, Lightroom renders the exported version of the photograph. The pixels in the exported version are changed. The pixels of the original photograph are not changed. Keep it simple, at first. KISS Mathew Carey Lea ( ) made the suggestion in 1868, and it still applies today. A Manual of Photography: (1868) To Develop Better, Develop a Workflow Scattered editing isn't as good as editing done stepby-step. Start with the Typical Workflow, and adapt it to your needs. Global Local Global Generally, you do global edits first. Global edits affect the entire photograph, such as exposure and color. Then, you do local edits, such as burning and dodging. Then, you return to two global edits, noise reduction and sharpening. White Balance Exposure Color Typically, you set the white balance first. Then, you adjust the exposure. Adjusting the exposure can change the color. So, cycle back and have a look at the color after adjusting the exposure. Panel & Tool Order The next section covers the order that you use the

3 3 of 59 12/19/2017, 1:04 PM panels and their tools. Comparison Is Essential We have poor memories for exposure, contrast, and color differences. Therefore, it's essential to compare before-and-after views of the photograph after you've made a change. Use the following three methods. Method #1 is the best one. Method #1 - Undo & Redo You can use keyboard commands to undo and redo your editing. As mentioned, this is the best comparison method. You can toggle between your previous edit and the current edit. Windows To undo the last edit, press Ctrl + z. To redo the last edit, press Ctrl + y. Mac To undo the last edit, press Cmd + z. To redo the last edit, press Cmd + Shift + z. Method #2 - Turn Off Icon There's a turn-off icon on most of the tools and panels. Click the icon to toggle between turning off and turning on the editing that you did with a tool or panel. Unfortunately when you turn off a panel all of your editing done with the panel is turned off not just the last edit. If you're using the Six Tools panel... Six Tools Panel... look for the tiny turn-off icon in the lower-left corner of the tool that you're using. Turn Off Icon The Crop tool doesn't have a turn-off icon. The Basic panel doesn't have a turn-off icon, either. The other panels do, on the left side of their tabs.

4 4 of 59 12/19/2017, 1:04 PM Turn Off Icons on the Panels Method #3 - Press Y or \ Press Y Press y to see your original photograph next to your edited photograph. Press y again to see just your edited photograph. Press \ Press \ to see your original photograph. Press \ again to see your edited photograph. Feedback Loop You've added a powerful feedback loop to your endeavors behind the camera. By editing, you become a better photographer. Back to the Menu at the Top

5 5 of 59 12/19/2017, 1:04 PM Develop Module > 2 - Editing Order Look at the top right corner of your screen, and make sure you're in the Develop module. Typically, the panels and tools are used in the following order. Panel Section Tool Global Editing (Affects Entire Photograph) Basic White Balance WB Menu Sliders (If needed) Basic Tone Exposure (All tones) Contrast (Convert grays to black & white) Highlights (Reduce) Shadows (Add fill light) Whites (Little used) Blacks (Increase structure, depth) Tone Curve Use if fine-tuning is needed. Basic White Balance Double check color after adjusting the exposure tools above. Basic Presence As needed: Clarity Vibrance Saturation Local Editing (Affects Small Areas) Basic Bar on the Top As needed: Crop Overlay Spot Removal Red Eye Correction Graduated Filter Adjustment Brush Back to Global Editing (Affects Entire Photograph) Detail As needed: Sharpening Noise Reduction Reward: Press y to compare the original and edited versions. Print this out for when you're editing. Let's look at the panels on the right side in general. Back to the Menu at the Top

6 6 of 59 12/19/2017, 1:04 PM Develop Module > 3 - Panels in the Develop Module Look at the top right corner of your screen, and make sure you're in the Develop module. Review Panels To review how to manage panels, go to Press Tab. This is the Basic panel. Basic Panel Basic Panel Move from Tool to Tool You can move from tool to tool by clicking. Or, you can do the following. You can press, to move up. Press. to move down. Likewise, you can do the same with the < and > keys. Up Down,. < > Four Ways to Change the Tool Values There are four ways you can change the tool values. Change #1 - Drag the Slider Click on the slider of the tool, hold, and drag. Change #2 - Scrubby Slider Position the cursor over the value of the tool. The cursor will change to a finger with two arrows. Click, hold, and move your mouse to the left and right. Change #3 - Keyboard Shortcuts Click on the name of the tool, and press + and.

7 7 of 59 12/19/2017, 1:04 PM Change #4 - Highlight & Highlight the tool value, and press the up and down arrows. Press Shift to Increase Strength To change the values by a greater amount, press and hold Shift first. Reset the Tool Values One Tool To reset only one tool in a panel, double click the name of the tool. All Tools in the Panel To reset all of the tool values in the panel, do one of the following. Click Reset at the bottom of the tool panel. Reset at the bottom of the tool panel. If there's no Reset button, double click the name of the sub-panel, such as WB, Tone, or Presence. Avoid the Big Reset Button Don't click Reset in the lower-right corner of your screen. If you do, all editing is removed. Reset in the lower-right corner of your screen. Don't click it! Brush Size & Feathering Some of the tools use brushes. You can use the sliders to change the brush size and feathering. Or, press [ or ], to change the size. The scroll wheel on your mouse will do so, as well. To change the feathering, press: Shift + [. Shift + ]. Let's start with the panels on the right side of the Develop module. Back to the Menu at the Top

8 8 of 59 12/19/2017, 1:04 PM Develop Module > 4 - White Balance Section Look in the upper-right corner of Lightroom, and make sure you're in the Develop module. We're now going to look at the White Balance section of the Basic panel. Basic Panel: White Balance Section Review White Balance To review the topic, go to White Balance. Preset Menu You can adjust the white balance by using presets on the menu to the right of WB. The choices for non-raw file formats are limited, as these files have been already processed by the camera. White Balance Selector White Balance Selector You can adjust the white balance by using the White Balance Selector tool. Click on the tool. As you move the cursor, look for an area with the least amount of color. That's an area that should be gray, but isn't perfectly gray. There are two "helps." Help #1 - Loupe The Loupe, a window, travels next to the cursor. The view in the Loupe is a magnification of the area under the cursor. Click when: The pixels have the least amount of color. The RGB values, at the bottom, are similar.

9 9 of 59 12/19/2017, 1:04 PM Help #2 - Preview The image in the Navigator panel previews the white balance wherever you move the cursor. Temperature & Tint Sliders Temperature & Tint Sliders Use the two sliders to fine tune the white balance. The Temperature slider has a range from blue to red It's used for: Tungsten lighting. Warming or cooling the color. The Tint slider has a range from green to magenta. It's used for: Florescent lighting, which is greenish. Skin tones. Reset Double click WB to reset the white balance back to As Shot. Back to the Menu at the Top

10 10 of 59 12/19/2017, 1:04 PM Develop Module > 5 - Tone Section Look in the upper-right corner of Lightroom, and make sure you're in the Develop module. We're now going to look at the Tone section of the Basic panel. Basic Panel: Tone Section The Tone section is for adjusting the exposure and contrast. Shadows / Midtones / Highlights You need to look at a photograph and see the: Shadows. Midtones. Highlights. It's easy. But, most people have had little practice doing so. When you're about to edit a photograph ignore the subject. Instead, look at the shadows, midtones, and highlights. You'll be better able to compare what's happening in these areas if you look for them first. Auto If you're new to editing, click the Auto button so you have more of an idea of what you can do. As described, compare the original version and the Auto version. Do one of the following. Windows: Press Ctrl + z and then Ctrl + y. Mac: Cmd + z and then Cmd + Shift + z Press y. Press \. Undo Auto To undo what Auto did, double click Tone, to the left of Auto.

11 11 of 59 12/19/2017, 1:04 PM Use the tools in the following order, as needed. Exposure A photograph that's too bright or dark can be rescued here. A JPEG version of the same photograph is not as amenable to the same amount of correction as a raw file. The slider uses Exposure Value, which is like using exposure compensation on your camera. The Exposure slider creates a linear adjustment. All of the pixels are brightened or darkened equally. If you move the slider too far, you'll clip the photograph. Clipping is the under- or overexposure of a photograph. Beginners may want to jump ahead. Return to the clipping section later. Clipping Clipping means areas in the photograph are completely black or completely white. You would probably want to: Lighten the black areas. Darken the white areas. For example, let's say the sky is clipped. The photograph would look better if the sky was darker. But, you can't easily darken the sky. There's nothing there no pixels to darken. That's the trouble with clipping. Clipping can occur when: You take the photograph at the wrong exposure setting. You move a slider too far when editing with Lightroom. Let's look at each clipping situation. Exposure Clipping If a scene has shadows and bright areas, clipping may occur. There are two ways to check for clipping. Check #1 - LCD Screen On many cameras, clipped areas "blink" on the LCD screen immediately after exposure. Check #2 - Histogram Most cameras can display a histogram of the the photograph. If there's a spike on the left or right ends of the graph, clipping is present. Editing Clipping As mentioned, if you move a slider too far, the image may become clipped. Histogram Review The histogram at the top-right corner represents the number of pixels in each brightness level. Number of Pixels The y-axis, the vertical axis, is the number of pixels.

12 12 of 59 12/19/2017, 1:04 PM Brightness Levels The x-axis is the brightness levels. There are 256 of them. The brightness level of 0 denotes underexposure clipping. There's no image information there. From 1 to 254, the brightness levels go from shadows to midtones to highlights. 255 denotes overexposure clipping. There's no image information there. 0 No Pixels: Underexposure/Clipping Pixels: Shadows to Midtones to Highlights 255 No Pixels: Underexposure/Clipping Color Channels A photograph is composed of red, green, and blue channels. You can clip only one or two of these channels, or all three. The colors below appear in the histogram. Red Red Green Green Blue Blue White All 3 Colors Cyan Blue + Green Magenta Red + Blue Yellow Red + Green How to Tell if Clipping Is Present There are three ways to identify clipping. Method #1 - Spikes If the photograph is clipped, a spike will appear on the left or right ends of the histogram. A spike on the left end means a portion of the photograph is underexposed clipped. A spike on the right end means the photograph is overexposure clipped. Left Spike Underexposure/Clipping Right Spike Overexposure/Clipping Method #2 - Triangles There's a triangle in each upper corner of the histogram that changes color if clipping is present. The shadow triangle, on the left, is black if there's no clipping. The highlight triangle, on the right, is white if there's no clipping. If one of the triangles is colored, click it. Shadow clipping, underexposure, shows as blue areas on the photograph. Highlight clipping, overexposure, shows as red areas on the photograph.

13 13 of 59 12/19/2017, 1:04 PM Method #3 - Alt or Option Key While using the sliders (except Contrast), press and hold Alt (Windows) or Option (Mac). Here's a chart of what you'll see when you use the sliders while pressing and holding Alt (Windows) or Option (Mac). Exposure Black: No Clipping White or Colors: Clipping Contrast Not applicable Highlights Shadows Whites Blacks Black: No Clipping White or Colors: Clipping White: No Clipping Black or Colors: Clipping Black: No Clipping White or Colors: Clipping White: No Clipping Black or Colors: Clipping Prevent Clipping with Your Camera When you're photographing, check the LCD screen after pressing the shutter release. Over- or underexposed areas will blink on many cameras. If an area is small and unimportant, ignore the warning. But, for example, if large portions of a sky are blinking, use exposure compensation to reduce the amount of light reaching the sensor. Or, use a two-stop graduated neutral density filter. You can also check for clipping by looking for left- or right-edge spikes on the histogram on your camera. Contrast The Contrast slider adjusts... the contrast. The Contrast slider applies an s-curve around the midpoint of the tones This is a non-linear adjustment. The pixels are not adjusted evenly. Pixels are darkened below the midpoint, and are brightened above Highlights & Shadows These two sliders are used for photograph that are high contrast. 1 - Highlights Use this slider to add tone to a too bright area. If all three color layers are clipped, Highlights can't function. If only one or two color layers are clipped, Highlights may be useful. 2 - Shadows This slider makes underexposed shadows brighter without lightening the darkest blacks in the image. Whites This slider moves more of the highlights to pure white.

14 14 of 59 12/19/2017, 1:04 PM Blacks This slider moves more of the shadows to pure black. Increasing the value can give photographs more structure or depth. Summary of the Sliders Exposure Brightness Contrast Contrast Highlights Reduce overexposure Shadows Reduce underexposure Whites Little used Blacks Add structure, depth Reset Double click the name of a slider to reset it to the default setting. Double click Tone to reset all of the sliders. Back to the Menu at the Top

15 15 of 59 12/19/2017, 1:04 PM Develop Module > 6 - Presence Section Look in the upper-right corner of Lightroom, and make sure you're in the Develop module. We're now going to look at the Presence section at the bottom of the Basic panel. Basic Panel: Presence Section Clarity Most often, you won't use Clarity on the Basic panel. Instead, you'll use it with the Adjustment Brush tool. Technically, Clarity increases or decreases midtone contrast. The contrast change is due to sharpening. In practice, think of Clarity as increasing or decreasing emphasis. For example: Increase Clarity increase emphasis on the eyes in a portrait. Decrease Clarity decrease emphasis on a distracting background. When using Clarity, click 1:1 in the Navigator panel in the top left corner of your screen. When Clarity is too strong, you'll see halos on the edges in the photograph. An edge is where there's a changed in tone or color. Saturation Definition Saturation is adjusted with the tools below. Think of saturation as being the vividness/richness of colors. Technically, saturation is the amount of gray in a color. Vibrance Vibrance increases the saturation of colors that are not already saturated. It also ignores skin tones, because you generally don't want to increase their saturation.

16 16 of 59 12/19/2017, 1:04 PM Saturation Saturation increases the saturation of all colors equally, whether the colors are saturated or not. < Vibrance, > Saturation The already-saturated colors in a photograph can be emphasized by decreasing Vibrance and increasing saturation. Back to the Menu at the Top

17 17 of 59 12/19/2017, 1:04 PM Develop Module > 7 - Six Tools on Top of the Basic Panel Look in the upper-right corner of Lightroom, and make sure you're in the Develop module. We're now going to look at the six tools located in the top of the Basic panel. Here they are. Six Tools Crop Overlay Spot Removal Red-eye Correction Graduated Filter Adjustment Brush The following features are common to the five tools. Tool Overlays The tools create overlays showing where the tool was used. The overlays allow you to locate previous editing, so you can refine it. Depending on the tool, the overlays are circles, ovals, lines, and pins. Pins are dots. An active pin is a white circle with a black interior. An inactive pin has a gray dot. Going Back to Previous Editing You can return to earlier editing by clicking on the inactive overlay for that editing. Let's say you used the Graduated Filter to make a sky darker. You walk the dog. When you come back, the sky is too dark. Do the following. 1) Click on the Graduated Filter tool. The gray pin (dot) will appear. 2) Click the pin. The pin will change from gray to a white circle with a black interior. 3) Lighten the sky.

18 18 of 59 12/19/2017, 1:04 PM 4) Click Done below the image. Hide the Overlays The overlays may become distracting. To toggle between showing and hiding the overlays, do one of the following. Press h. Select an overlay preference in the tool bar. Turn Off Icon Turn Off Icon You can turn off the effects created by the tool. Toggle the icon in the lower-left corner of the panel on and off. Delete a Single Overlay To delete a single overlay, i.e. the editing the overlay represents, do the following. Let's say you removed some wrinkles. You walk the dog. When you come back, the person looks too young for his or her age. You need to undo some of the wrinkle removal. Do the following. 1) Click on the Spot Removal tool. The gray pin or pins will appear. 2) Click one of the pins. The pin will change from gray to a white circle with a black interior. 3) Position the cursor on the pin. 4) Press Delete. The pin disappears, as does the editing done with that pin. Remove All Editing Done by a Tool Reset at the bottom of the tool panel. Click Reset in the tool panel to remove the editing done with a tool. Reset in the lower-right corner of your screen. Don't click it! Don't click Reset in the lower-right corner of your screen. If you do, all editing is removed.

19 19 of 59 12/19/2017, 1:04 PM Close Click Close in the tool panel to close the panel. Let's look at the six tools. Tool #1- Crop Overlay Tool #2- Spot Removal Tool #3- Red Eye Correction Tool #4- Graduated Filter Tool #5- Radial Filter Tool #6- Adjustment Brush Back to the Menu at the Top

20 20 of 59 12/19/2017, 1:04 PM Develop Module > 7 - Six Tools on Top of the Basic Panel > Tool #1 - Crop Overlay Crop Overlay Click the dashed-rectangle icon to open the Crop panel. Overlay By default, a tic-tac-toe grid is displayed on the photograph. Use this overlay to apply the rule of thirds when cropping. Place subjects of interest along the lines of the grid, or at points where the lines intersect. While this is called the rule of thirds, but it's only a guideline. To hide the grid, press Ctrl + Shift + h. Press o to cycle through the overlays below. Grid Thirds Diagonal Triangle Golden ratio Golden spiral Padlock Icon Padlock Icon The padlock icon is used to toggle between using only a certain aspect ratio, and allowing any aspect ratio. Aspect Ratio Tool Aspect Ratio Tool You can drag out a box that has a certain aspect ratio. First, let's look at aspect ratios. Aspect Ratios Many digital SLR cameras use an aspect ratio of 3/2. The 3/2 aspect ratio is rectangular. The width is 3, and the height is 2.

21 21 of 59 12/19/2017, 1:04 PM 4 x 6 inch and 8 x 12 inch prints have the same aspect ratio, 3/2. When printed as an 8 x 10 inch print, the photograph is cropped. That's because the aspect ratio of the 8 x 10 inch print is 2.5/2, not 3/2. Many point-and-shoot cameras use an aspect ratio of 4/3. This aspect ratio is less rectangular than the 3/2 ratio. When printing point-and-shoot photographs, the images will usually be cropped. A few labs offer 4 x 5.33 inch prints, which have the 4/3 aspect ratio. To Use an Aspect Ratio when Cropping Open the menu to the left of the padlock icon, and select an aspect ratio. The 4/3 aspect ratio isn't on the menu. If you need to use this ratio, select Enter Custom on the menu. Enter 3 and 4 as the aspect ratio values. Next, click the Crop Frame tool icon. Adjustments Portrait (Vertical) or Landscape (Horizontal) To switch between portrait (vertical) or landscape (horizontal), press x. Move the Photograph To move the photograph inside the crop box, click and hold inside the crop box, and drag. Change the Shape of the Crop Box To change the shape of the crop box, place the cursor over an edge or a corner. Then, click and hold, and drag the edge or corner of the crop box to change its shape. Straighten the Photograph To straighten the photograph, place the cursor on the outside of the crop box near a corner. Then, click and hold, and drag. You can also use the Straighten tool, below. Unlock the padlock icon. Free Hand Crop Click, hold, and drag on the photograph to create a crop box with any shape. Straighten Tool Straighten Tool Click the Straighten tool icon. Click and hold, and drag out a line on your photograph where the horizon should be located. You can also use the slider to rotate the photograph. Back to the Menu at the Top

22 22 of 59 12/19/2017, 1:04 PM Develop Module > 7 - Six Tools on Top of the Basic Panel > Tool #2 - Spot Removal Spot Removal Two Modes: Heal & Clone By default, the tool is in Heal mode. Heal mode samples the area outside the brush, and blends it with the area inside the brush. The Clone mode samples an area outside the brush, and pastes it into the area inside the brush. Heal Blends like a painter mixing two colors on a palette Clone Pastes like a painter using a paint roller on a wall Try the Heal mode first. If there's subject matter nearby that will blend incorrectly, use the Clone mode. Use Both at the Same Time You can switch between Heal and Clone to see which one works the best. Use one mode, and then click on the other mode in the panel. Or, right click on the circle and select the other in the contextual menu. Two Methods for Heal or Clone First, two definitions. You're going to create two circles. Where you click, a heal circle or a clone circle will appear. A second circle will then appear, with a thicker border. This second circle is the sampled area. To reposition the circles, click and hold on the circle, and drag. Method #1 - Click Method This method is like the Spot Healing brush in Photoshop Elements. Do the following. 1) Use the bracket keys, [ and ], to make the brush slightly larger than the area to be retouched. 2) Position the brush carefully, and click. You can also click, hold, and drag the brush. Dragging the brush is useful linear defects, such as wrinkles. 3) If the editing is poor, click and hold on the thicker white circle, the sample-area circle, and reposition it. Method #2 - Click, Hold, & Drag Method Do the following. 1) Use the bracket keys, [ and ], to make the brush slightly larger than the area to be retouched. 2) Position the brush carefully, click and hold, and drag outward.

23 23 of 59 12/19/2017, 1:04 PM 3) Position the sample-area circle in the optimum location. Visualize Spots If your photograph has lots of small spots that need to be retouched, use Visualize Spots. It's below the image. Visualize Spots Your photograph becomes black-and-white and contrasty, making the spots stand out. Use the slider to adjust the contrast. Back to the Menu at the Top

24 24 of 59 12/19/2017, 1:04 PM Develop Module > 7 - Six Tools on Top of the Basic Panel > Tool #3 - Red-eye Correction Do the following. Red Eye Correction 1) Position the cursor on the red area, click and hold, and drag outward to cover the red area. You can use the bracket keys, [ and ], to adjust the size. 2) Release the mouse button. 3) If needed, adjust Pupil Size and Darkness in the Red Eye Correction panel. Back to the Menu at the Top

25 25 of 59 12/19/2017, 1:04 PM Develop Module > 7 - Six Tools on Top of the Basic Panel > Tool #4 - Graduated Filter Graduated Filter You can use the Graduated Filter to fade an effect from full strength to zero. For example, let's say you want to darken a sky. Move the Exposure slider to the left. Click and hold at the top of the photograph. Drag down to the horizon line. Release the mouse button. The darken-sky effect will be strongest at the top. The effect will fade to zero at the horizon line. Here are the steps in detail. 1) Do one of the following in the Graduated Filter panel: Choose a preset from the menu to the right of Effect. Make an adjustment with the sliders. You can't enter the optimum value. You haven't made the gradient yet. So, neither you or Lightroom knows what the effect is going to look like. Therefore, enter a value greater than what you think you should. You'll adjust the intensity of the effect after you've brushed it on your photograph. 2) Click and hold on the photograph where you want the effect to be strongest. 3) Drag to where you want the effect to be zero. If you move the mouse to the left or right, you can tilt the effect. If you press and hold Shift, and then drag out the gradient, it won't tilt. 4) Release the mouse. A pin will appear. It's a white circle with a black center. An inactive pin is silver. To reactivate a pin, select the Graduated Filter tool, and then click the silver pin. After you've made the gradient, adjust the intensity of the effect using the slider in the Graduated Filter panel. 5) Click Done below the image when you're finished using the tool. Before clicking Done, you may want to do more. Do More Use the Other Sliders You can use more than one effect. Invert the Gradient Press the apostrophe key, ', to flip the gradient's beginning and end.

26 26 of 59 12/19/2017, 1:04 PM This is handy if you drag out the gradient in the wrong direction. Move the Effect You can move the pin to move the entire gradient. Click and hold on the pin, and drag. Change the Beginning & End You can modify where the gradient begins or ends. Click and hold on one of the outer two lines, and drag. You can rotate the effect. Rotate the Gradient Click and hold on the line that runs through the pin, and drag. Add a New Gradient If you want to make another gradient, click New in the Graduated Filter panel. Or, press Enter. Back to the Menu at the Top

27 27 of 59 12/19/2017, 1:04 PM Develop Module > 7 - Six Tools on Top of the Basic Panel > Tool #5 - Radial Filter Radial Filter The Radial Filter tool works like the Graduated Filter tool. You drag out a circle or oval instead of a gradient. You can: Create vignettes. Smooth uneven lighting, such as from pop-up flash. Lighten the dark corners when using some wideangle lenses. To make a circle, press and hold Shift when you drag it out. At the bottom of the Radial Filter panel, you can: Adjust the feathering. Invert the mask. To move the circle/oval, click and hold inside it, and drag. To change the shape, click and hold one of the handles on the circle/oval, and drag. Back to the Menu at the Top

28 28 of 59 12/19/2017, 1:04 PM Develop Module > 7 - Six Tools on Top of the Basic Panel > Tool #6 - Adjustment Brush Adjustment Brush You can use the Adjustment Brush to edit locally. For example, if the shadow on your subject's face is too dark, you can lighten it with the Adjustment Brush. Most of the global editing effects in the Basic panel are available as local editing effects in the Adjustment Brush panel. Plus, there are a few additional editing effects in the Adjustment Brush panel. Do the following. Basic Use 1) Click the Adjustment Brush. 2) Double click Effect in the Adjustment Brush panel to set the sliders back to zero. 3) Click and hold the triangle on the Exposure slider, and drag it to the left to get some "paint" on your brush. You have to have some paint on your brush to see where you're brushing. 4) Place the brush on the photograph where you want the effect. 5) You can make the brush smaller and bigger by pressing the bracket keys: [ or ]. 6) Click and hold, and brush. A pin is created where you start brushing. 7) Release the mouse. 8) Readjust the Exposure slider, as needed. You can add additional editing effects with the other sliders. 9) Click Done in the tool bar at the bottom of the work area. The pin will turn from black to gray. Pins Active pins are black. Inactive pins, pins that are "done," are gray. You can reactivate a pin by clicking it. If you press h, the pins are hidden. Two Other Ways to Adjust the Effects Most users drag the sliders, as described above. There are three other ways you can move the sliders. Other Way #1- Arrow Keys Do the following. 1) Position the cursor on Exposure. 2) Press the up-and-down arrow keys. If they don't work, try the left-and-right arrow keys.

29 29 of 59 12/19/2017, 1:04 PM If you position the cursor on Effect, all of the sliders that have been used will move together. Other Way #2 - Drag Left & Right on the Value Do the following. 1) Position the cursor over the value to the right of the slider. 2) Click and hold. The cursor changes to two arrows. 3) Drag left and right. Other Way #3 - Drag Left & Right on the Pin Do the following. 1) If the pin isn't black, click on it to make the pin active. Again: Active pins are black. Inactive pins are gray. 2) Position the cursor over the pin. 3) Click and hold. The cursor changes to two arrows. 4) Click and hold, and drag left and right. Change the Size & Feathering Of the Brush You can use the sliders in Adjustment Brush panel to make a brush: Smaller and bigger. More or less feathered. Feathering softens the edge of the brush. When you feather a brush, the brush circle becomes two circles. As the two circles move further apart, there's more feathering. Below, the black area in the top photograph was made with a non-feathered brush. The edge of the black area is sharp. In the bottom photograph, a feathered brush was used to add the black area. Its edge is soft, feathered.

30 30 of 59 12/19/2017, 1:04 PM Non-feathered Brush As mentioned: Feathered Brush Keys Instead of Sliders Press [ to make a brush smaller. Press ] to make a brush larger. And, press and hold Shift, and then press [ or ], to change the feathering. Brushing Tips Tip #1 Fill the screen with the area that you need to brush. Zooming in makes it easier to edit. Realize that a minor brush stroke imperfection probably won't be seen when you zoom out. Tip #2 Don't try to brush the area in one fell swoop. Brush the easiest part first.

31 31 of 59 12/19/2017, 1:04 PM Then, release the mouse button. Repeat the above, as you progress to trickier areas. By releasing the mouse button periodically, you won't have to undo everything if you misplace a brush stroke. Tip #3 When brushing tricky areas, such as curly hair: Reduce the size of the brush. Increase or decrease feathering. Mistakes If you make a mistake when brushing, do one of the following. 1) Press Ctrl + z to undo the last brush work. 2) Press and hold Alt, and brush over the mistake. Pressing and holding Alt is the same as clicking Erase in the Adjustment Brush panel. If you click Erase, click A or B in the Adjustment Brush panel to go back to a regular brush. Delete an Edited Area If you want to delete an edited area: 1) Click on the pin for the area. The pin is already black, or it will turn black. 2) Press Delete. Paint with a Color You can "dip" the Adjustment Brush into any color. 1) Click the color box to the right of Color. Color Box The Select a Color window appears. Select a Color Window 2) Click a color inside the window. 3) Click the x in the upper-left corner to close the window. Go to Select a Color Window. Flow & Density Flow Flow is like paint coming out of a spray can. When Flow is set to a low value, it's as if the spray can is passing quickly over the wall. Very little paint is hitting the wall. If the value is low, editing is being done, but slowly. You can brush repeatedly over an area to build up the editing effect.

32 32 of 59 12/19/2017, 1:04 PM Density Density is the measure of how well the paint, the editing effect, is covering. If the setting is low, you may be getting as much coverage that you expect. Auto Mask When you brush, Lightroom creates a mask where you're not brushing. A mask is like when you use blue-masking tape when painting woodwork or a window. Lightroom "places blue masking tape" down where you don't brush. This mask blocks the effect. Use Auto Mask When you select Auto Mask near the bottom of the Adjustment Brush panel, Lightroom will help you confine the editing effect to a certain area. Below, the letter B on a sign was brushed with Auto Mask off. The letter was edited both on the letter and to the left of the letter. Auto Mask Off In the next photograph, the letter B was brushed with Auto Mask on. The brush was moved on about the same path as it was in the top photograph. Now, the brush only edited the letter. The cyan-colored wall was not affected. The Auto Mask feature confined the editing to just the letter, even though the wall was brushed. Auto Mask On

33 33 of 59 12/19/2017, 1:04 PM Show the Mask If you place the cursor on the pin, the edited area will show in red. The non-red area is masked. There's no effect where there's no mask. If you would like to have the red area on all of the time, select Show Selected Mask Overlay in the tool bar. Or, press o to toggle between hide and show. To change the color of the red area, press Shift + o repeatedly. Back to the Menu at the Top

34 34 of 59 12/19/2017, 1:04 PM Develop Module > 8 - Tone Curve Panel Most photographers use the Tone Curve panel to tweak the contrast. The heavy lifting is done with the Basics panel. You may want to do the same. However, some photographers use the Tone Curves panel for everything. So, experiment. Two Versions The Tone Curve panel has two versions. You'll probably use version #2 more than version #1. To switch between the two versions, click the Point Curve icon in the lower-right corner of the panel. Point Curve Icon Version #1 - Point Curve Tone Curve Panel - Point Curve Version #2 - Sliders Tone Curve Panel - Sliders The Tone Curve Graph Let's explore the tone-curve graph.

35 35 of 59 12/19/2017, 1:04 PM Before You Do Anything When you first open the Tone Curve panel, you see a white straight line. This curve represents your unchanged photograph file. The curve isn't a histogram. It doesn't represent the actual tonal values of your photograph. After You Do Something After you move the curve, it represents the change in the tonal value. Note Lightroom may apply default changes when importing a photograph. If it does so, the curve may not be a straight line. The Two Axes Bottom Axis The horizontal axis of the graph is the original tonal values of the file. Side Axis The vertical axis of the graph is the changed tonal values of the file. Horizontal axis Original tonal values Vertical axis Changed tonal values Changed Tonal Values Original Tonal Values

36 36 of 59 12/19/2017, 1:04 PM Four Regions The Tone Curve panel divides the tonal values of a photograph into four regions: Highlights Lights Darks Shadows Highlights Lights Darks Shadows Shadows Darks Lights Highlights Changing the Curve When you change the curve, the tonal values change from their original values. Move a Single Point When you move a single point on the curve up, that tone becomes brighter. When you move a single point on the curve down, that tone becomes darker. Up Brighter Down Darker Try It Click on the white line, hold, and drag it up-anddown. Some of the tonal values of your photograph become brighter and darker. Reset To reset to a linear curve, do the following. 1) Right click (Windows) or Ctrl + click (Mac) on the graph. 2) Select Flatten Curve or Reset All. Change the Slope When the slope of the curve changes. If the slope is steeper, there's more contrast. If the slope is shallower, there's less contrast. Steeper slope More contrast Shallower slope Less contrast Try It Look for the Point Curve menu in the lower-right corner of the Tone Curve panel.

37 37 of 59 12/19/2017, 1:04 PM Point Curve Menu Open the menu and click Medium Contrast or Strong Contrast. When the slope changes, the contrast changes. Reset Again, to reset to a linear curve, do the following. 1) Right click (Windows) or Ctrl + click (Mac) on the graph. 2) Select Flatten Curve or Reset All. Move the sliders. Change the Tone Curve Tone Curve Sliders No Sliders? If you don't see the sliders, click the Point Curve icon in the lower-right corner of the Tone Curve panel. Point Curve Icon Compare! Look at the before version of your photograph, and the after version. Click the Turn Off icon repeatedly. The icon is located in the upper-left corner of the Tone Curve panel. Turn Off Icon Reset To reset a single slider, double click the name of the slider. To rest all of the sliders, double click Region. Another Way to Reset Right click (Windows) or Ctrl + click (Mac) on the graph, and make a selection from the reset menu. Three Other Ways to Change the Curve There are three other ways you can adjust the curve. Way #1 - Click & Drag the Curve Click on the curve, hold the mouse button down, and drag up-and-down. Way #2 - Targeted Adjustment Tool The Targeted Adjustment tool is located in the upperleft corner of the Tone Curve panel.

38 38 of 59 12/19/2017, 1:04 PM Do the following. 1) Click the tool. Targeted Adjustment Tool 2) Click on your photograph, hold, and drag, up-anddown. The area that you clicked on, and other similar areas, are adjusted. Done When you're finished with the Targeted Adjustment tool, click Done. The Done button is located below and to the right of your photograph. Done Button Way #3 - Points on the Curve You used the Point Curve menu above. If you see the sliders... Tone Curve Sliders... click the Point Curve icon in the lower-right corner of the Tone Curve panel. Point Curve Icon Then, in the point Curve menu, select Linear, Medium Contrast, or Strong Contrast. Linear Curve If you selected Linear, click on the curve to create a control point, a tiny white circle on the curve. Then, click and hold on the control point, and drag up-and-down. Medium Contrast & Strong Contrast Curves Click and hold on a control point, the tiny white circle on the curve. Then, drag up-and-down. Click on he curve to create more control points. Delete a Control Point To delete a control point, do the following. 1) Right click (Windows) or Ctrl + click (Mac) on the control point. 2) Select Delete Control Point. Reset To reset to a linear curve, do the following. 1) Right click (Windows) or Ctrl + click (Mac) on the graph. 2) Select Flatten Curve.

39 39 of 59 12/19/2017, 1:04 PM Contrast & Saturation Occasionally, when you change the contrast, the color saturation may change adversely. If so, use the Vibrance and Saturation sliders in the Basic panel to return the saturation to your liking. Vibrance only affects colors that are not already saturated. Saturation affects all colors. Even More Control There are three sliders, split controls, at the bottom of the graph. Move these sliders to change the size of the four regions. To reset one of these sliders, double click the slider. Clipping Avoid extreme changes, as clipping my result. If you haven't already, go to the Histogram panel and to Clipping. Back to the Menu at the Top

40 40 of 59 12/19/2017, 1:04 PM Develop Module > 9 - HSL / Color / B&W Panel Look in the upper-right corner of Lightroom, and make sure you're in the Develop module. We're now going to look at the HSL / Color / B&W panel. HSL / Color / B&W Panel The panel has three sections: HSL Section Color Section B&W Section Let's look at each section. HSL Section A color that you see in a photograph is composed of three components. Hue Saturation Luminance Therefore, the HSL section has a sub-section for each of the three components. Click one of the sections. Or, click All to see all of the sub-sections at once. HSL Section Let's look at the three sub-sections. Sub-section #1 - Hue Hue is another word for color. Drag Drag the sliders to change the colors. Hue Sub-section Click-and-Drag You can also click-and-drag on the photograph. Do the following. 1) Click the target-part-of-a-photograph icon in the upper-left corner of the sub-section.

41 41 of 59 12/19/2017, 1:04 PM Target Part of a Photograph Icon 2) On a color in the photograph, click, hold, and drag up-and-down. The color you selected will be modified. 3) Click the Done button when you're finished. The button is located below the photograph on the right end. Done Button Sub-section #2 - Saturation Saturation is the amount of gray in a color. Think of it as being the vividness/richness of a color. Drag the sliders to change the saturation. You can also select a color on the photograph, as described above. Saturation Sub-section Sub-section #3 - Luminance Luminance is the brightness of the tones. Think of it as being the black-and-white component of color. You may have encountered the term luminosity in other programs. Drag the sliders to change the luminance. You can also target a color on the photograph, as described above. Luminance Sub-section

42 42 of 59 12/19/2017, 1:04 PM Color Section The Color section is a variation of the HSL section. There's no target-part-of-a-photograph icon for dragging on a color in the photograph. Color Section B&W Section You can use the B&W section to tweak black-andwhite photographs. Go to Convert to B&W. B&W Section Back to the Menu at the Top

43 43 of 59 12/19/2017, 1:04 PM Develop Module > 10 - Split Toning Panel Go to Toning & Split Toning. Back to the Menu at the Top

44 44 of 59 12/19/2017, 1:04 PM Develop Module > 11 - Detail Panel Sharpening & Noise Reduction We're now going to look at the Detail panel in the Develop module. There are two sections: Sharpening Noise reduction Before discussing sharpening and noise reduction, we'll look at three steps to do first. 3 Steps: 1:1 Magnification Preview Window Make a Virtual Copy Sharpening Section Noise Reduction Section Detail Panel 3 Steps 1:1 Magnification In the Navigator panel, in the upper-left corner of your screen, click the 1:1 icon. 1:1 Magnification Icon Sharpening is best seen at the 1:1 magnification. 1:1 is the same as 100% magnification. Noise reduction effects used to have to be viewed at 1:1, but no longer. Preview Window Use the preview window to evaluate the settings you apply.

45 45 of 59 12/19/2017, 1:04 PM If the view in the preview window isn't 1:1, a warning icon is seen in the upper-left corner of the section. Click the icon to go to a 1:1 magnification. There are two ways to move the image in the preview window. Method #1 Click, hold, and drag, the image in the preview window. Method #2 1) Click the preview-window icon in the upper-left corner of the panel. Preview Window Icon 2) Move the cursor on your photograph in the work area not on the small image in the preview window. 3) Click when you've found a good area for judging sharpening or noise reduction. Make a virtual copy. Press Ctrl + '. Make a Virtual Copy You can add sharpening or noise reduction to the virtual copy. Sharpening Section Noise Reduction Section Sharpening Section Sharpening Section Beginners Beginners come back later! If you're a beginner, you may want to use the sharpening presets when you're exporting or printing. Sharpening is complex. More Advanced Lightroom Users As you know, your photograph is "built" from tiny square blocks pixels. If the world was made from... Blocks Composed of vertical and horizontal lines... sharpening would not be needed. Rectangle on the Left Below, the rectangle on the left is displayed appropriately. It's sharp. The vertical and horizontal lines of the rectangle match up with the vertical and horizontal lines of the pixels.

46 46 of 59 12/19/2017, 1:04 PM You can see a sharp rectangle because the building blocks the pixels are like the subject the rectangle. Rectangle on the Right The rectangle on the right doesn't have vertical and horizontal lines. It's not sharp. The non-vertical and non-horizontal lines of the rectangle don't match up with the vertical and horizontal lines of the pixels. Summary Most of the time, you're photographing subjects that are not vertical and horizontal. The world is more about curves than it is about verticals and horizontals. Yet, you're recording and displaying this curvy world using vertical-and-horizontal pixels. That's the problem that sharpening fixes. How Do We Make Curves Look Sharp? Sharpening uses an optical illusion to make subjects without vertical and horizontal lines, look sharper. The trick is accomplished by increasing the contrast along edges. An edge is where there's a change in tone, like the image below. The image below doesn't look sharp. Sharpening Section The contrast along the edge below was increased with sharpening. Your web browser may make the difference less

47 47 of 59 12/19/2017, 1:04 PM evident. Sharpening Section How do you do the above with a photograph? Presets There are two sharpening presets in the Presets panel on the left side of your screen. The presets will help you to get a feel for sharpening values. Open the Presets panel, and click Lightroom Presets. Scroll down to near the bottom of the presets list. Sharpening Presets Click on the first one, the Scenic preset. Note how the sharpening slider values change in the Sharpening section on the right side of your screen. Click on the Faces preset. The values change. Landscapes require more Detail; portraits, less. Trees and rocks look better with more Detail; cheeks and noses, with less. Scenic Preset Values Faces Preset Values Reminders Remember, sharpening is done where there's an edge in your photograph. An edge is where there's a change in tone or color.

48 48 of 59 12/19/2017, 1:04 PM A foggy landscape has few edges. A dilapidated barn has lots of edges. What sharpening does to an edge is to increase the contrast on both side of the edge. What Values Do You Enter? The values are determined largely by the edges and the output medium. Edges The nature of the edges in a photograph help determine the sharpening values that you enter. A foggy landscape has few edges. A dilapidated barn has lots of edges. They require different sharpening values. Output Medium The sharpening values that you set vary depending on the output media. If you're editing a photograph for a website, what you see on your monitor is what you need. If you're printing, experiment. A glowing monitor is very different medium than a piece of paper. Generally, enter stronger sharpening values for printing. Often, glossy papers require less sharpening than matte paper. Whew! As mentioned, sharpening is complex. Sharpening Robot? Let's imagine there's a sharpening robot, Edgie. Edgie boots up when you go to the Detail panel. Edgie searches your photograph. When you're setting the values below, Edgie: Looks for the edges in your photograph. Makes changes to the edges according to your instructions. What are Amount, Radius, Detail, and Masking? Amount When you change the Amount value, Edgie changes the amount of contrast along the edges. Zero is no sharpening. 150 is maximum sharpening. Use lower values for photographs with less need for sharpening, such as a portrait of a baby. Use higher values where there's a need for more sharpening, such as the tattoo on the baby's mothers arm. Raw Files Have Never Been Sharpened, JPEG Files Have When sharpening a raw file, Amount defaults to 25. Whereas, a JPEG files starts off with an Amount value of zero. Amount starts off at 25 for raw files because they haven't been sharpened by the camera, as are a JPEG files. Amount Visual Aid Press and hold Alt when changing the Amount value.

49 49 of 59 12/19/2017, 1:04 PM The possibly distracting color is removed. Radius When you change the Radius value, Edgie changes the width of the contrast increase. The values range from.5 to 3. Use lower values for photographs with fine edges, such as a wicker chair. Use higher values where the edges are wider, such as a portrait. Radius Visual Aid Sharpening can be hard to see. Press and hold Alt when changing the Radius value. The edges being sharpened are white. Detail Edgie uses Detail to reduce the halos that may appear along edges. Oddly: A value of zero suppresses the halos the most. A value of 100 does no halo suppression. Detail Visual Aid Press and hold Alt when changing the Detail value. The Halos may be easier to see. Masking Masking varies where sharpening is done. When at zero, Edgie sharpens the entire photograph. As you increase the Masking value, Edgie restricts sharpening to more pronounced edges. Masking appears to be similar to Threshold in Photoshop Elements. Masking Visual Aid Press and hold Alt when changing the masking value. White areas are being sharpened. Black areas are not being sharpened. They're masked. Compare View Use the before-and-after view of your photograph as you're using the above controls. Press y. Local Sharpening You can use the Adjustment Brush tool to apply sharpening to parts of a photograph. For example, you could make the eyes more prominent on a portrait by sharpening them. Noise Reduction Section Noise Reduction Section