The Fruit Tingle Bag. Pattern written by Fiona Hawke. Kalgoorlie, Western Australia

Transcription

1 The Fruit Tingle Bag Pattern written by Fiona Hawke Kalgoorlie, Western Australia Pattern written: 14 November, 2017

2 The Fruit Tingle Bag This pattern is written using US terms. Yarn: I have made this bag using 300g of 1.8mm Industrial Twisted Cotton purchased from It is suitable for other 10 to 12 ply cottons. With my tension, my bag worked up to be 30cm deep and cm wide, relaxed but with plenty of stretch in it. I have also made a version with two strands one of Grunt Cotton Shop Twine and the other Ice Yarns Camilla Cotton which is 32 cm deep and 45cm wide. Hook: I used a 4.5mm hook but of course you can adjust for your own tension. Remember there will be stretch regardless. Stitches used/abbreviations: ch = chain dc = double crochet sc = single crochet ss = slip stitch starting sc = chain, single crochet in the same spot as your joining slip stitch. 2 ch mesh = sc, 2 chain in the next chain space. Work the sc into the space, not the chain. *stuff* = any directions written between asterisks should be repeated as many times as noted following the asterisk. eg: *2ch, 3sc in next space* 12 times Notes: * I am a short-arse so I designed this bag to suit longer straps so I could wear it over the shoulder but also carry in hand as I needed. It is slightly wider than it is deep but you can always adjust this if you are taller and add on more rounds to increase the depth or more chain to make the straps longer. The use of rings to join the straps to the bag make it very strong. * The name for the bag arose from the pastel coloured squares which were painted on using fabric dyes. You don t have to do this, although if you would like to I would recommend using a fabric paint. * I found it safest to use a stitch marker to mark the start of my round, especially with the mesh stitch. This was after continuously going around and losing count and having to frog a million rounds. * All work is done on the one side, do not turn your work. Although, if you do, no biggie, the world won t end. * Crochet is forgiving. If you have one more or one less stitch in your end of round count, don t panic. Fudge it. * Take your height into consideration when deciding on how many round repeats to do and how long to make the handles. There will be stretch regardless of the yarn you use. * There is an optional tab on the rim of the bag if you intend to use it for shopping at Coles, Woolies, etc. * Patterns are just guides. Feel free to modify where you like to make it wider or deeper etc and I would love to see your variations. Enjoy!

3 Round Bag Body 1 With your 4.5mm hook start off with 36 chain. < You will be working around both sides of the chain with extra sc in each end. > Skip the first chain and work 3 sc into the second chain from the hook. Sc into each of the next 33 chain. In the last chain work 4 sc. Now you need to keep coming around the other side and work into the loops at the bottom of the sc you have already made. Sc into each of the next 33 loops. Work 1 sc into the chain where you started with the 3 sc and join with a ss. Do not turn. 2 Sc in the same place as the ss. *2 ch, sc in the next stitch* 3 times. *2 ch, skip 1 sc, sc in next stitch* 17 times. *2 ch, sc in the next stitch* 3 times. *2 ch, skip 1 sc, sc in next stitch* 17 times. 2 ch. Do not join or turn. Stitch count <Work continuously in the round from here until we get to the next section. Use a stitch marker to keep count if you wish or leave the stitch marker on the starting side so you know which end to finish.> Sc in the next two ch mesh space. Continue with *2ch, sc in mesh space* for a further 13 rounds. 17 <Start of the 3 dc cluster rounds.> 1 ch. In the next 2 ch mesh space, 3 dc. Continue to work 3 dc into each 2 ch mesh space all the way around. Ss to 1 ch made at the beginning of the round ch. Sc into the space between the cluster you have just completed and the next cluster. *2 ch, sc between the next 2 clusters* all the way around and finish with 2 ch and ss into the first sc. 19 Ss into first 2 ch mesh. 2 ch, 2 dc in same space. 3 dc in the next mesh space. Continue to work 3 dc into each 2 ch mesh space all the way around. Ss to 1 ch made at the beginning of the round Repeat Rounds 18 and 19 once more. 22 Repeat Round Repeat Round 3 for a further 10 rounds. 33 < Decrease round reduce one stitch in 2 of every 3 mesh spaces. If you feel the bag opening is still wider than you like, reduce in every mesh space, that is, work 2 sc into each mesh space and ignore the sc into next sc step > 2 sc in first 2 ch mesh space. 2 sc in each of the next 2 spaces, sc in the next sc. *2 sc in each of the next 3 spaces, sc in next sc* 12 times. 2 sc in next 2 ch mesh space and join with a ss. 34 Starting sc, sc in each stitch around and join with a ss Repeat Round < If you would like to add a small tab to be able to hang your bag from the packing holder at the supermarket, you can do that in this round. If it isn t something you think you will need, repeat Round 34 > Starting sc, sc in the next 22 stitches, 4 ch, skip 3 stitches, sc in each of the remaining stitches of the round. < This should have your tab in the centre of one length of your bag. If not, you may need to find the centre, come back one stitch and skip 3 stitches there. > Repeat Round 34 but when you get to your tab (if you have a tab), work 5 sc into the 4 ch space and continue around, join with a ss. 95

4 38 < I chose with this bag to join my straps using rings. If you have d-rings or rectangular joiners or any other sort of joiner, that is fine, too. You can even make the straps and stitch them on securely using the X in a box method if you prefer not to use a joiner. I find the joiner really strong. You can eyeball where to place your joiners, use a tape measure or count stitches. I use the tried and true eyeball method! If you would rather you could also crochet your handles similar to those on the Apple Bag. I chose to make two straps and join them with four rings. You can do one wide strap end to end if you prefer, your choice! > < I used 4 joining rings for my bag and I placed them about 8 cms from either end of the bag. If your rings are not too thick they can easily be crocheted in. For wider rings, stitch them on securely. > Starting sc, sc to the point for your first joiner and place the section of joiner to be crocheted over alongside the next stitches. Crochet a sc into the next stitch and around the joiner, and continue sc along for as many stitches as required. If your yarn is not too thick, 2 sc in each stitch over the ring is even better. At the end of the joiner, work a sc into the next stitch and continue around to the next joining spot and repeat until you have all the rings joined. Finish with a ss. < Sorry if this is a crappy description. Check out the pictures, that might help! >

5 Round Handles (2) Stitch count 1 < You can decide on the length of your handles based on your height and preferences for hand held or over shoulder. Use a firm tension for the handles to reduce stretch. There are other strategies for making you handle firmer and reduce stretch such as crocheting a stiffer length of nylon twine into each side of the handle. > 41 chain (or chainless foundation.) 2 Skip 1 ch, sc to the end of the row. Turn ch, sc in each stitch to the end of the row. Fasten off. 41 Finishing off 1 I used a chenille needle to attach each end of the handle to the joining ring. Leave a decent tail when starting and finishing each end of the handle to enable weaving in. 2 I chose to decorate this bag by hand-painting the 3 dc clusters in pastel colours. You could also embellish with beads or buttons.