The Vee Bag. Pattern written by Fiona Hawke. Kalgoorlie, Western Australia. September 2017 (Revised 1 October, 2017)

Transcription

1 The Vee Bag Pattern written by Fiona Hawke Kalgoorlie, Western Australia September 2017 (Revised 1 October, 2017)

2 The Vee Bag This pattern is written using UK terms. Yarn: I have made this bag using approx 135g of 4ply cotton (Bendigo Woollen Mills rainbow version), 150g of Ice Yarn Cotton Fine (a 50/50 cotton/acrylic blend pink version) and 120g of Katia Mississippi 3 (a 60/40 cotton/acrylic blend blue, green, cream version). If you would like to work in 8ply, see my The Vee Bag 8ply pattern. Cotton is best as it will not stretch as much as acrylic or wool or cotton blend but it will still have some stretch regardless. Hook: I used a 3.5mm and a 3.0mm but of course you can adjust for your own tension. Remember there will be stretch so you will want a fairly firm tension. I recommend using the smaller hook for the rim and handles to assist with firmness. Stitches used/abbreviations: CC = colour change ch = chain dc = double crochet dec = decrease. In this case, double crochet decrease. Insert your hook into the stitch, yarn over and pull through. Insert your hook in the next stitch, yarn over and pull through so there are now 3 loops on your hook. Yarn over and pull through all 3 loops. ss = slip stitch starting tr = chain, double crochet, chain in the same spot as your joining slip stitch. starting v-stitch = chain, double crochet, two chain, treble in the same spot as your joining slip stitch. tr = treble v-stitch = treble, one chain, treble worked into the same stitch. Notes: * Finish each round with a slip stitch into the top of the first stitch. However, you can work the first 13 rounds as continuous if you prefer, I do as it is much neater. Just remember to use your stitch marker! * When I start the round with a double crochet it is placed in the same spot as the joining slip stitch. If you like, and depending on your tension, you can do one chain first before placing the double crochet. This is for the starting double crochet only. * All work is done on the one side, do not turn your work. Although, if you do, no biggie, the world won t end. * Your work may get a little wavey when you are halfway through the circular base. Not a problem. Wave back, smile and keep going. * If you prefer to do the multi-colour version, I have marked at the beginning of the round CC where I suggest these colour changes occur. * Crochet is forgiving. If you have one more or one less stitch in your end of round count, don t panic. Fudge it. * Take your height into consideration when deciding on how many pattern repeats to do and how long to make the handles. There will be stretch regardless of the yarn you use. If you are a short-arse like me, 5 repeats might be enough. * Patterns are just guides. Feel free to modify where you like and I would love to see your variations. Enjoy!

3 Round Bag Body Stitch count 1 With your 3.5mm hook start off with a magic circle or four chain joined with a slip stitch, whatever your preference. Chain 2 (this stands as the first tr), work 14 tr into the circle and join into the second chain with a slip stitch. Do not turn. 2 Work 2 dc into the same spot as the joining ss and 2 dc in each tr around Work 2 dc into the same spot as the joining ss. 1 dc in the next stitch and 2 dc in the next. Continue with 2 dc in every second stitch finishing the round with 1 dc. 4 Work 1 dc into the same spot as the joining ss. 1 dc in each stitch of the round. 5 Work 2 dc into the same spot as the joining ss. 1 dc in the next 2 stitches and 2 dc in the next. Continue with 2 dc in every third stitch finishing the round with 2 dc Work 1 dc into the same spot as the joining ss. 1 dc in each stitch of the round Work 2 dc into the same spot as the joining ss. 1 dc in the next 3 stitches and 2 dc in the next. Continue with 2 dc in every fourth stitch finishing the round with 3 dc Work 1 dc into the same spot as the joining ss. 1 dc in each stitch of the round Work 2 dc into the same spot as the joining ss. 1 dc in the next 4 stitches and 2 dc in the next. Continue with 2 dc in every fifth stitch finishing the round with 4 dc Work 1 dc into the same spot as the joining ss. 1 dc in each stitch of the round Repeat round Starting v-stitch, skip 1 stitch, v-stitch in next stitch. V-stitch in every second stitch of the round. <This is an increase round which is why there is only one stitch between each v-stitch.> 15 Ss into one chain space, starting v-stitch in same space. V-stitch in every one chain space to the end of the round. 16 Repeat round CC. Work 1 dc into the same spot as the joining ss. Double crochet in the one chain space as well as the next two treble. Double crochet in each one chain space and treble around. 18 Starting tr and tr in each stitch around Work 1 dc into the same spot as the joining ss. 1 dc in each stitch of the round Starting v-stitch, skip 2 stitches, v-stitch in next stitch. V-stitch in every third stitch of the round. 21 Ss into one chain space, starting v-stitch in same space. V-stitch in every one chain space to the end of the round. 22 Repeat round

4 23-46 Repeat rounds 17 to 22. < This is the pattern (and colour if you are changing) repeat which you will continue until you get the desired depth. I continued the pattern a further 4 times, making 6 bands of V-stitch in total. In 4ply cotton with a 3.5mm hook this made my bag about 40cm deep, including rim. As mentioned in the notes, you may need to consider the number of repeats if you are shorter. > Round Bag Rim and Handles Stitch count 1 CC. Work 1 dc into the same spot as the joining ss. Double crochet in the one chain space as well as the next two treble. Double crochet in each one chain space and treble around. 2 Change to 3.0mm hook (or the smaller of the two with which you are working.) Work 1 dc into the same spot as the joining ss. 1 dc in each stitch of the round. 3-8 Repeat round 2. < You may like to change up the colours in the rim and handles. In the picture above I did 4 rounds of green, 4 rounds of cream, 4 rounds of blue, 4 rounds of cream. > < This is the round where you will divide to make the handles, like an arch that joins up again a bit further along, twice. I made this pattern for a handle that will slip over your arm if necessary but for a longer handle you will need to add more chains. > Work 1 dc into the same spot as the joining ss. 1 dc in each of the next 36 stitches. Ch 40, skip next 30 stitches, dc in next 38 stitches, ch 40, skip next 30 stitches and join with a ss to the first dc Work 1 dc into the same spot as the joining ss. 1 dc in each stitch and chain of the round Work 1 dc into the same spot as the joining ss. 1 dc in each stitch of the round Same as Round 11, unless If you are making a longer handle, to help it sit a little flatter where it meets the rim, I would recommend decreasing a stitch over the 4 joining points, where the arch begins and finishes on each side of the bag. If you can see where it is buckling when you pull the handles up, this is where you might want to decrease two stitches to make one. After each decrease, continue your dc around until you get to the next decrease point. If you are making a very long handle, you may need to decrease again on the next round Repeat Round 11.

5 Round Finishing 17 <I love to finish items with a reverse crab stitch but if you don t like doing crab a simple dc,ch,dc,ch in each stitch can make a neat finish.> Work 1 dc into the same spot as the joining ss, ch 1, skip 1 stitch, reverse crab, ch 1, skip 1 to the end of the round. Fasten off. 18 Rejoin the same colour yarn to any spot on the inner side of the handle and reverse crab, ch 1, skip 1 your way around the inside of the handle and the rim. Both sides of course. Fasten off. Ends. There are always ends. If you haven t worked them in as you went, weave or stitch them in now. For the blue/green/cream version I made a simple 8 petal flower and stitched in onto the rim with a button centre. This is a link to one of Wink s tutorials for a basic flower but there are hundreds of patterns out there or make up your own.