Dalecarlia Cushion. Copyright Ellinor frostvirka. com. Hook: 3,0 and 2,5 Size: Inner pillow 45 x 45 cm

Transcription

1 Dalecarlia Cushion Copyright Ellinor frostvirka. com Hook: 3,0 and 2,5 Size: Inner pillow 45 x 45 cm Garn: Scheepjes Sunkissed from Favoritgarner.se Färg 1: 01 Rockpool 3 skeins Färg 2: 14 Cherry Ice 2 skeins Färg 3: 14 Spearmint Green 1 skein Färg 4: 15 Noonday Sun 1 skein Färg 5: 12 Beach Hut Orange 1 skein Färg 6: 11 Peach Ice UK terms used: St stitch Ch chain Ss slip stitch Dc double crochet Tr treble crochet Ch-sp chain space Fptr - front post treble crochet Htr half treble crochet Dtr double treble crochet Ttr triple treble crochet Htr3tog 3 htr together Dtr3tog 3 double treble crochet together Ttr3tog 3 triple treble crochet together Fpdc front post double crochet Fpttr front post triple treble crochet

2 Fppuff Front post puff stitch *Yarn over, insert your hook from front to back around your tr from previous row, yarn over and pull up a loop, repeat * until you have 9 loops on hook. Yarn over and pull through 8 loop on hook. Yarn over and pull through remaining loops. Cl - colour Dalecarlia square Make 9 squares Tips: When you start a round with: Tr - make a standing tr or ss + ch 3 Dc make a standing dc or ss + ch 1 Htr make a standing htr or ss + ch 2 Dtr make a standing dtr or ss + ch 4 Rounds 5 are 7 made in the same colour, I have used colour 3. When the pattern tells you to fasten off, your next round will be made in another colour. You can vary the colours as you like, but these are my combinations: 1: Round 1: cl 5, round 2: cl 4, round 3: cl 6, round 4: cl 2, round 5: cl 3, round 6: cl 5, round 7: cl 3, round 8: cl 4, round 9: cl 1 2: round 1: cl 6, round 2: cl 2, round 3: cl 5, round 4: cl 4, round 5: cl 3, round 6: cl 6, round 7: cl 3, round 8: cl 2, round 9: cl 1 3: round 1: cl 4, round 2: cl 6, round 3: cl 2,round 4: cl 5, round 5: cl 3, round 6: cl 4, round 7: cl 3, round 8:cl 6, round 9:cl 1 If you look closely at the photo you will notice that I have also varied the colours within these three combinations. Make a magic loop. Round 1 Ch 3 (acts as first tr), 11 tr in the ring, ss in initial ch 3. Fasten off. (12 tr) Round 2 2 tr in the back loop of a tr, * fptr around next tr, 2 tr in the back loop of next tr, repeat* around and after your last fptr, join to initial tr with a ss. Fasten off. (6 fptr, 12 tr) Round 3 3 tr in the back loop of a fptr,* ch 2, dtr3tog in the front loop of the tr from round 1 to the left of the fptr, ch 2, 3 tr in the back loop of next fptr, repeat* around and after your last dtr3tog, join to initial tr with a ss. Fasten off. (6 groups of dtr3tog and 6 groups of 3 tr). Round 4 *2 dc in the back loop of dtr3tog, dc in next ch-sp, frpttr around fptr from round 2 to the left, dc in the same ch-sp, dc in the back loop of the second tr of the three, dc in in next ch-sp, fpttr around the same fptr as before, dc in the same ch-sp, repeat* around and after your last dc in ch-sp, join to initial dc with a ss. Fasten off. (12 fpttr and 42 dc)

3 Round 5 Cl 3 1 dc in the back loop of every st. Join to initial dc with a ss. Fasten off. (54 dc). Photo 5 Round 6 This round is worked in the back loop only. 2 dc in first st, 1 dc in each of the following 25 st, 2 dc in next st, 1dc in each of the following st, join to initial dc with a ss (56 dc). Photo 6 Round 7 Cl 3 This round is worked in the back loop, except where the pattern says otherwise. Htr in dc above a fpttr (photo 7), htr in next st, * Ttr3tog in the front loop of the dc in the middle from round 4 (photo 8), ch 2, ttr3tog in the same st, skip 3 dc on round 6, 1 htr in each of the following 2 st, 1 dc in each of the following 7 st, 1 htr in each of the following 2 st, repeat * around (photo 9) but the last time you make 7 dc, join to initial htr with a ss. Fasten off. (eight ttr3tog, 16 htr, 28 dc and 4 chsp) Photo 10.

4 Round 8 *Insert hook through the opening between two green petals, 2 dtr + ch dtr in the dc in the middle from round 6 (photo 11), htr in ttr3tog (photo 12), 1 htr in the back loop of each of the following 2 htr, tr in the front loop of the dc to the left from round 6, (photo 13), skip 1 dc on round 7, dc in the back loop in next dc, 1 tr in the front loop of each of the following 3 dc to the left from round 6, skip 3 dc on round 7, dc in the back loop in next dc, tr in the front loop of the dc to the left from round 6, skip 1 dc on round 7, 1 htr in the back loop of each of the following 2 htr, htr in ttr3tog (photo 14), repeat* around and join to initial dtr with a ss. (16 dtr, 24 htr, 8 dc, 20 tr and 4 ch-sp). Photo 15

5 Round 9 Cl 1 *2 dtr + ch dtr in ch-sp, 1 tr in each of the following 2 dtr, 1 htr in each of the following 3 htr, dc in tr, dc in dc, fpdc in tr, dc in next tr, fpdcin next tr, dc in dc, dc in tr, 1 htr in each of the following 3 htr, 1 tr in ach of the following 2 dtr, repeat* around and join to initial dtr with a ss. (16 dtr, 16 tr, 24 htr, 8 fpdc, 16 dc and 4 ch-sp) Fasten off and weave in the ends. Bubblesquare Make 4 squares using cl 1. It is worked in rows back and forth Ch 21 Row 1 Dc in second ch from hook, 1 dc in each ch to the end. Turn. (20 dc) Row 2 Ch 3 (acts as first tr) 1 tr in each st to the end.turn. (20 tr)

6 Row 3 Ch 3 (acts as first tr), tr in next st,* fppuff around next tr, 1 tr in each of the following 2 tr, repeat* to the end. Turn (6 fppuff, 14 tr) Repeat row 2 and until you have 6 rows of fppuffs, make sure your last row is row 3. Fasten off. Make a round of dc around your square, from the right side, 2 dc in every corner. (88 dc) Fasten off and weave in the ends.. Triangle square Cl 1 NOTICE: Use hook 2,5. Make 8 triangle squares. It is worked in rows back and forth,. The initial ch 3 on each row acts as a tr. Ch 4, join to initial ch 1 with a ss. Row 1 In the ring, ch 3, 3 tr, ch 2, 4 tr. (8 tr) Row 2 Ch 3, tr in the same tr, 1 tr in each of the following 3 tr, 2 tr + ch tr in ch2-sp, 1 tr in each of the following 4 tr, in the last tr you also make a dtr. (13 tr and 1 dtr)

7 Row 3 6 As row 2, but for every row your tr will increase with 6. Row 3: 19 tr and 1 dtr Row 4: 25 tr and 1 dtr Row 5: 31 tr and 1 dtr Row 6: 37 tr and 1 dtr Row 7 Ch 1, dc in first tr, 1 dc en each of the following 18 tr, 2 dc + ch dc in ch2-sp, 1 dc in each of the following tr, ch 1, continue to make 21 dc on the third side of the triangle. Join to initial dc with a ss. Fasten off. Make 4 more triangle squares, but on these you make 2 dc in ch2-sp on row 7 instead of 2 dc + ch dc. Put these four triangle squares in the corners of the cushions. Your other eight triangle squares are placed between the corners. Place your squares according to the picture below: Join all your squares using cl 1. Start in the top left corner and join the three squares marked with red to a length. The colours in the photo shows where the squares should be joined. Make a new length by joining the 5 squares marked with yellow. Continue to make more lengths the same way. When all lengths are finished, join them in the places marked with brown until they are all joined to a big square. Make a round of dc around all four sides of your square. Where three squares meet (circles in the photo) make htr3tog (acts as 1 dc). (87 dc on each side) Your cushion might look a bit wavy in the places where three squares are joined, but it it wont be noticed when frontside and backside are joined. Backside in moss stitch : It is worked in rows back and forth, turn after every row. I start every row with ch 1 but this is only a turning ch and does not act as firts st. When you start a row in a new colour,make a standing dc or ss + ch 1. Every second colour change are always in cl 2. Look in the photo below how the colour changes should be. Ch 88 using cl 1.

8 Row 1 Dc in second ch from hook, ch 1, skip 1 ch, dc in next ch, *ch 1, skip 1 ch, dc in next ch, repeat*to the end.turn. Row 2 Ch 1, dc in first dc, dc in ch-sp, *ch 1, skip dc, dc in next ch-sp, repeat* to the end and finish with a dc in the last dc. Fasten off. Row 3 Using cl 2, dc in first dc, *ch 1, skip dc, dc in next ch-sp, repeat* to the end and finish with dc in the last dc. Turn. Repeat row 2 and 3 until you have made 52 colour changes. Make two more moss stitch rows using cl 1. Weave in all the ends Make 3 rows of dc, working back and fort, on both sides that does not have any black colour (vertical sides). Make 88 dc on each of these vertical sides. Make a whole round of tr round your square. Increase on each side so that you have 89 tr on each side. Make a whole round of puffs round your square in the same way as row 3 on the bubble square, (ch 3 (acts as first tr), tr in next st, * fp puff around next tr, 1 tr in each of the following 2 tr) Last row: Make a last row of tr on the vertical sides (1 tr in each st) and 1 dc in each st on the horizontal sides (except for the first and the last st on the horizontal sides where you make a htr instead of a dc). Block your square so it gets the same size as your frontside Join frontside and backside, wrong sides together. Remember the inner pillow before joining the last side of the cushion. Weave in the ends. If you like tassels, make four tassels and attach in the corners. This pattern and the photos are all mine. You may use them for private use, but they cannot be copied or published on another page. If you post a picture of something you have made from any of my pattern, I want you to link and refer to my blog and to me as the designer.

9 I would really be happy if you #frostvirka and #dalecarliacushion so that I can see all your lovely versions of my cushion. xxx Frostvirka/Ellinor