Log Bag by Catkin and Comet

Transcription

1 Log Bag About the pattern: This bag is fantastic for storing firewood logs and transporting them from your log store to your cosy front room fire. What you will need: Yarn = 2 spools of Nutscene Garden Twine, 3 ply, Natural jute, 300m Hooks = 5mm hook Stitch marker Tapestry needle to weave in the ends PVA glue to paint the inside of the basket to stiffen it Paintbrush and small bowl for the glue Skill Level: EASY Final measurements: 33 cm high, 32 cm diameter of base circle Tension: 10 dc stitches, 13 rows = 10cm by 10cm, Abbreviations and pattern instructions: Words in italic = Additional instructions provided to assist with following the pattern (xxx, xxx, xxx) = stitch sequence between brackets to be completed in next stitch i.e. multiple stitches in the new row to be made in one stitch in the row below [xxx, xxx, xxx] y times = repeat stitch sequence between the brackets y times ** = if multiple stitch sequence repetitions are required asterisks are also used to clarify where to start repeating sequence Ch = Chain stitch 1

2 Dc = Double crochet (UK), or single crochet (US) Slst = Slip stitch Special stitches: 1. Magic ring I would recommend looking for a tutorial on the internet which explains how to do a magic ring. This allows you to crochet the initial circle of your basket very tightly so that there isn t a small hole in the middle. This is my preferred method of making a circle, but if you don t want to use a magic ring, you can always start off by doing one of the following options instead for Round 1: a. ch2, 6dc in 2 nd ch from hook, slst in top of 1 st dc OR b. ch4, slst in 1 st ch, ch1, 6dc in middle of 4ch circle, slst in top of 1 st dc. Notes: This pattern is worked from the bottom of the bag upwards. You will start by crocheting the circle for the base of the bag, increasing the number of stitches for each round to keep the circle flat. You will then stop the increases, which will create the walls of the log bag. The walls are worked in a continuous circle so as to avoid a joining line being visible on the side of the bag. There are methods to avoid having a joining line if working in the round, however I find that no matter how hard I try I always end up with some kind of line and so this method is easier if you want your basket to look more professional. This pattern is written using UK terminology. 2

3 Pattern: CIRCLE BASE: Round 1: Using 5 mm hook create magic circle. Ch1 (doesn t count as stitch), 6 dc in circle, slst in top of 1 st dc to close. (At the end of this round you will have 6 dc stitches.) Round 2: ch1 (doesn t count as stitch), 2dc in next dc (not same stitch as ch1), [2dc in dc] 5 times, slst in top of 1 st dc to close. (At the end of this round you will have 12 dc stitches.) Round 3: ch1 (doesn t count as stitch), 2dc in next dc (not same stitch as ch1), dc in dc, [2dc in dc, dc in dc] 5 times, slst in top of 1 st dc to close. (18dc) Round 4: ch1 (doesn t count as stitch), 2dc in next dc (not same stitch as ch1), [dc in dc] 2 times, *2dc in dc, [dc in dc] 2 times*, repeat from * to * 4 more times, slst in top of 1 st dc to close. (24dc) Round 5: ch1 (doesn t count as stitch), 2dc in next dc (not same stitch as ch1), [dc in dc] 3 times *2dc in dc, [dc in dc] 3 times*, repeat from * to * 4 more times, slst in top of 1 st dc to close. (30dc) Round 6: ch1 (doesn t count as stitch), 2dc in next dc (not same stitch as ch1), [dc in dc] 4 times *2dc in dc, [dc in dc] 4 times*, repeat from * to * 4 more times, slst in top of 1 st dc to close. (36dc) Round 7: ch1 (doesn t count as stitch), 2dc in next dc (not same stitch as ch1), [dc in dc] 5 times *2dc in dc, [dc in dc] 5 times*, repeat from * to * 4 more times, slst in top of 1 st dc to close. (42dc) Round 8: ch1 (doesn t count as stitch), 2dc in next dc (not same stitch as ch1), [dc in dc] 6 times *2dc in dc, [dc in dc] 6 times*, repeat from * to * 4 more times, slst in top of 1 st dc to close. (48dc) Round 9: ch1 (doesn t count as stitch), 2dc in next dc (not same stitch as ch1), [dc in dc] 7 times *2dc in dc, [dc in dc] 7 times*, repeat from * to * 4 more times, slst in top of 1 st dc to close. (54dc) Round 10: ch1 (doesn t count as stitch), 2dc in next dc (not same stitch as ch1), [dc in dc] 8 times *2dc in dc, [dc in dc] 8 times*, repeat from * to * 4 more times, slst in top of 1 st dc to close. (60dc) Round 11: ch1 (doesn t count as stitch), 2dc in next dc (not same stitch as ch1), [dc in dc] 9 times *2dc in dc, [dc in dc] 9 times*, repeat from * to * 4 more times, slst in top of 1 st dc to close. (66dc) Round 12: ch1 (doesn t count as stitch), 2dc in next dc (not same stitch as ch1), [dc in dc] 10 times *2dc in dc, [dc in dc] 10 times*, repeat from * to * 4 more times, slst in top of 1 st dc to close. (72dc) Round 13: ch1 (doesn t count as stitch), 2dc in next dc (not same stitch as ch1), [dc in dc] 11 times *2dc in dc, [dc in dc] 11 times*, repeat from * to * 4 more times, slst in top of 1 st dc to close. (78dc) 3

4 Round 14: ch1 (doesn t count as stitch), 2dc in next dc (not same stitch as ch1), [dc in dc] 12 times *2dc in dc, [dc in dc] 12 times*, repeat from * to * 4 more times, slst in top of 1 st dc to close. (84dc) Round 15: ch1 (doesn t count as stitch), 2dc in next dc (not same stitch as ch1), [dc in dc] 13 times *2dc in dc, [dc in dc] 13 times*, repeat from * to * 4 more times, slst in top of 1 st dc to close. (90dc) Round 16: ch1 (doesn t count as stitch), 2dc in next dc (not same stitch as ch1), [dc in dc] 14 times *2dc in dc, [dc in dc] 14 times*, repeat from * to * 4 more times, slst in top of 1 st dc to close. (96dc) Round 17: ch1 (doesn t count as stitch), 2dc in next dc (not same stitch as ch1), [dc in dc] 15 times *2dc in dc, [dc in dc] 15 times*, repeat from * to * 4 more times, slst in top of 1 st dc to close. (102dc) BASKET WALLS: Use a stitch maker in so that you can keep track of how many rounds you have done. Round 18-55: ch1 then dc in dc all around. Work in a continuous circle. This will mean that you won t end up with a joining line going up and across your basket. Round 56: [dc in dc] 15 times, ch25, sk 20dc, join ch in next dc with dc in dc, [dc in dc] 31 times, ch25, sk 20dc,join ch in next dc with dc in dc, [dc in dc] 16 times. (62dc + 50 ch) Round 57: [dc in dc] 15 times, [dc in back loop of ch] 25 times, [dc in dc] 31 times, [dc in back loop of ch] 25 times, [dc in dc] 16 times. (112dc). Use a stitch maker in so that you can keep track of how many rounds you have done. Round 58 to Round 61: dc in dc in continuous circle all around. End with a slst into top of dc. FINISHING OFF: Sew all the yarn ends in. I then used PVA glue to stiffen the basket. To do this, I painted the inside of the basket with the glue. The glue will change the texture of the yarn and so this step has to be done on the reverse of the basket. I did a few testers first on some swatches to see how much glue would give the stiffness I wanted. I ended up deciding on 2 quite thick layers of glue, leaving the layers time to dry in between. I painted the basket with glue in 2 stages. First, I found an item which was about the same size as my basket I found an old cut up log which we use as a seat in our garden. I waited for a sunny day so as to aid with drying. Then I placed the basket on the log inside out. I did this so that when I was putting the glue on the basket it would be the shape that I wanted it to be. I painted the bottom of the basket with glue and left it to dry. I then repeated this step so I could have 2 layers of glue. 4

5 Next, I painted the walls of the basket with glue. The basket was still inside out at this stage and still on the log to give it shape. (I say I did it but actually my kids pitched in too as they thought it looked like too much fun!) Then I left the basket to dry and repeated a second layer of glue. The final stage is to then turn your stiff log basket inside out. This is actually a bit trickier than I thought it would be! Your bag is now finished and ready to be enjoyed!! If you want to find out more about Catkin and Comet, check out my blog 5