PROJECT TITLE: Celtic Unity. PROJECT MAKER: Leanne Ballschmieter Quilted by: Emily Klein-Ballschmieter ISSUE: 28-05

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PROJECT TITLE: Celtic Unity PROJECT MAKER: Leanne Ballschmieter Quilted by: Emily Klein-Ballschmieter ISSUE: 28-05 PROJECT BLURB: Fascinated by the Celtic interlinked designs Leanne finally plucked

1 PROJECT TITLE: Celtic Unity PROJECT MAKER: Leanne Ballschmieter Quilted by: Emily Klein-Ballschmieter ISSUE: PROJECT BLURB: Fascinated by the Celtic interlinked designs Leanne finally plucked up the courage to give it a go and decided to give it the Aussie Quick Quilt Treatment creating this elegant but very easy quilt. PROJECT MEASUREMENTS: 162cm (63 ½ in square) Finished block size: Various PROJECT MATERIALS: 5 shades of purple 85cm (32 ) lavender 15cm (7 ) light purple 15cm (7 ) mid purple 13cm (3 1/2 ) Purple 1.35m (51.5 ) Dark Purple 5 shades of green 2.1m (82.5 ) plus 1 fat quarter mint 10cm (2.5 ) light green 14 ½ (40cm) mid green 10cm (2.5 ) emerald 10cm (2.5 ) Dark Green 75cm (26 ) plus 1 fat quarter Cream 30cm (10 ½ ) Gold

2 - Iron on interfacing two x 12 ½ squares and four 17 ½ squares - 3.2m (3 ½ yards) of backing fabric - 160cm square (64 in) 100% cotton batting. - Neutral-coloured cotton thread for piecing - Machine quilting thread: white - Helmar 101 Quilt Basting Spray - Scissors: fabric, craft - Iron and ironing-board - Rotary cutter, ruler and mat - Sewing machine - General sewing supplies SPECIAL INSTRUCTIONS OR NOTES: Make ¾ bias tape using a bias maker and using fabric matching the border fabric colour and the dark purple colour. I allowed a metre of each to be sure I had enough. Cut ¾ strips of vliesofix and iron it onto your bias but do not remove the paper until you are ready to use it. From the iron on interfacing cut four x 17 ½ squares and two 12 ½ squares Trace the Template onto template plastic adding all the markings CUTTING: Mint fabric: cut one x 16 ½ square. Five shades of green cut: (cut into 2 ½ squares) Mint x 10 Light green x 16 Mid green x 12 plus 12 Emerald x 8 Dark Green x 4 Sixteen x 5 strips of mint green

3 Five shades of purple cut: (cut into 3 ½ squares) Lavender x 20 Light Purple x 32 Mid Purple x 24 Purple x 16 Dark Purple x 8 Nine x 3 dark purple strips Nine x 3 lavender strips Cream fabric: cut one 15 ½ square and cross cut on both diagonals to make four triangles. Cut four x 6 ½ strips cut one end off of each at a 45-degree angle. Then cut each strip into two x 11½ pieces, each cut on 45 degree, giving 8 pieces, four going to the left and four to the right. Cut six x 1 ½ strips for the first border (gold) Cut six x 2 strips for the second border (mid green) From your binding fabric cut eight 2 ½ in strips (dark purple) 3.2 m backing cut in half and joined at selvedge CONSTRUCTION: CENTRE BLOCK Using the template and the lining up guide trace your knot in three parts overlapping as needed, onto your 16 ½ square. Now Using a 10 diameter circle trace that into position. Peel the paper of your bias and carefully place into position over and underlapping as required following the picture as a guide. Applique into place using your favourite stitch. Trim this block to 15 exactly.

Setting Triangles Using the cream triangles cut from the 15 ½ block stitch top and bottom to the centre block, press seam away from the centre.

These are made the same way but in a different size. 1 2 3 4 5 2 3 4 5 4 3 4 5 4 3 4 5 4 3 2 5 4 3 2 1 Follow the colour guide above.

Fold each section and stitch (Picture 1) Stitch along every vertical line then turn and stitch along every horizontal line.

Make 4 of the purple colourway and 2 of the green colour way Now cut these on the diagonal through the centre colour.

4 Setting Triangles Using the cream triangles cut from the 15 ½ block stitch top and bottom to the centre block, press seam away from the centre. Now repeat for the side triangles. This should measure approx. 20 ½ along the side. Now make the Purple and green colour wash triangles. These are made the same way but in a different size Follow the colour guide above. Place squares onto iron on interfacing and press into place. Fold each section and stitch (Picture 1) Stitch along every vertical line then turn and stitch along every horizontal line. Press well with seams all going the one way. Make 4 of the purple colourway and 2 of the green colour way Now cut these on the diagonal through the centre colour. ASSEMBLY Attach the purple triangles on opposite sides of the centre block. Press seams out, then attach the opposite triangles. Press. For the green and cream section of the quilt top Take your green triangles one at a time and add a cream 45 degree on each side of it. Making sure that you have the rhomboid facing the correct way Make 4 in total. Now stitch these on opposite sides of the centre block. Press and add the other opposite sides.

Attach the remaining purple triangles on opposite sides of the centre block as before, press and add the opposite sides BORDERS 1 st border: Join the 1 ½in gold strips together end to end, in two

Pin the strip from the centre towards the outer edges of the quilt so the extra fabric overhangs the side edges. Join the strip and then trim evenly with the sides of the quilt top.

5 Attach the remaining purple triangles on opposite sides of the centre block as before, press and add the opposite sides BORDERS 1 st border: Join the 1 ½in gold strips together end to end, in two lots of three strips, cut each set in half. Join one set along the upper edge of the quilt referring to the attaching borders instructions on the Technique pages. Pin the strip from the centre towards the outer edges of the quilt so the extra fabric overhangs the side edges. Join the strip and then trim evenly with the sides of the quilt top. Attach the second strip to the lower edge of the quilt in the same and trim as before. Press the seams outwards. Join one of the remaining strips to each side edge of the quilt in the same way and trim and press as before. Complete the second green border in the same manner. 3 rd interlocking border: Strip piece a 5 mint strip to each side of four dark purple 3 strips Strip piece a 5 mint strip to each side of four lavender 3 strips. Press each strip set and cross cut each one into eight x 5 ½ strips. Next cut the remaining five x 3 strips into 12 ½ pieces (3 from each and you will need 14 for the interlocking border) Add a dark set to each side of the lavender strips and a light set to each side of the dark strips as per pic 4. Press Note the overlap top and bottom You will now have 28 blocks. Using the clear template cut the blocks as in picture 5.

6 Matching the pattern join 6 blocks and stitch them down the left side, do the same for the right side. Now repeat for the top and bottom but use 8 blocks. Remember to match and pin each seam set in the blocks. Your quilt top is now done BACKING Cut the backing fabric into two equal lengths and join them together with a 1/2in seam and press the seam to one side. Lay the backing out on flat surface with wrong side facing up. Lay the batting over it and smooth out any wrinkles. Lay the quilt top over it and then smooth out any wrinkles. Fold back half of the quilt top and spray the exposed batting with quilt basting spray. Carefully replace top and smooth down, removing any wrinkles. Repeat on the other side of the quilt top. When the quilt top has been basted, flip over the quilt sandwich and repeat for the backing, adhering one side of the backing to the batting first then repeating with the other side. You can view Leanne s gluing technique at under the video tips section. Mark any quilting designs if required. Alternately, prepare the quilt sandwich following the instructions in the Techniques page. QUILTING This quilt has been quilted from the centre out. Ditch stitch around the knot and work your way out using what ever technique you choose. BINDING Stitch the 2 ½ in binding strips end to end in four sets of two strips each and. Press the seams open, then press the binding strips in half along the length, with wrong sides facing. Using a two strip set of binding, align raw edges with the side edge of the quilt, with right sides facing on the back of the quilt sandwiching your prairie points between the quilt and the binding ensuring spacing is even and the corner triangles line up as in picture 3. Stitch the

7 binding to the side edge of the quilt using a 1/4in seam. Repeat for the other side of the quilt. Press the binding out, then trim the binding level with the upper and lower edges of the quilt. Fold it over to the front of the quilt and pin. Now stitch on the front of your quilt right on the seam line where the binding was attached. Repeat for the other side edge of the quilt using the remaining two-strip set. Lastly attach the binding to the upper and lower edges of the quilt using the other two strip sets for each side, folding the beginning and end in to create a neat finish. Remember to check your prairie points are aligned and in position before stitching. You can, if you prefer, attach the prairie points before you add the binding to ensure correct placement. Alternately you can view a more traditional method of binding on our website under the video tips page. Or refer to the Techniques page for instructions to attach a mitred binding. Attach a label to the back of the quilt with your name and the completion date. To contact Leanne about this project, her at leanne@aussiequickquilt.com To see more of her work visit

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