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3 Sewing in reve:se 11 Adj..istin; tha tensions Samples of embroidery 15 Needle and thread chart 5 Page Featuras and parts Setting the needle 6 Threading bobbin case 7 Embroidery Patterns 15 Stitch length chart 11 Satin stitch 15 General sewing 13 Preparing to sew 13 Rernovng the work 14 Creative embroidery 15 1 Qht weight fabrics 13 Changing foot and plate 1 Sra;ht stitching 1 Winding the bobbin 6-7 Placing bobbin case in shuttle 8 Upper threading 8-9 Setting the stitch length 11 Adjusting pressure and feed 12-3 Adjusting stitch width 15 Care and maintenance 21 Oiling 22 Accessories 26 Making buttonholes 17 Sewing on buttons 19 Narrow hemmer 2 Lace trimmed hem 2 Seam gauge 2 Trouble chart Binder 31 Hemmers 34 Darning spring 34 Lace edge 2 How to use accessories 2 Embroidering with a hoop 16 Cleaning and oiling shuttle 22 Attachments 29 Attachment foot 3 Edgestitcher 3 Cord and zipper foot 33 Ruffer 32 Page INDEX 1

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8 Fig. 3 Break off loose thread end used to start the winding. bobbin B on spindle of bobbin winder 7, fitting the notch on bobbin over small pin on spindle. Push bobbin winder pulley needle moves when you turn the hand wheel. from you until sewing mechanism is again engaged so that Bobbin will stop winding when it is filled. Turn clutch away slowly Disengage the hand wheel (5, (Fig. 4) from the stitching against hand wheel. Hold thread end loosely and start machine the tension disc (1, (Fig. 5) at the base of the machine. Run end of thread through a hole in the bobbin edge and place through the upper thread guides on the arm, and down through mechanism by turning the clutch 6 toward you or counterciock Place a spool of thread on one of the spool pins, lead thread wise. WINDING THE BOBBIN position. hand to be sure the needle is in the correct plete revolution of the balance wheel by After changing the needle make one corn hole, tightening the needle clamp screw securely (flat side to right ) in the needle clamp and push it with a screw driver. Then loosen the needle clamp screw B and the needle can be inserted into clamp C. Place needle p / point, turning wheel toward you by hand. upward as far as it will go into the needle clamp I See Fig. 3. Raise the needle bar A to its highest 9at surface SETTING THE NEEDLE &

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10 I : < -j r:e Fig. 1 Fig. 9 a, (P4L A locked securely in place. Close the cover plate. been released to make sure the bobbin case is (ID). Press bobbin case again after latch has possible until latch catche son the center post of the bobbin case to the right. Insert and center the bobbin case on the stud of the shuttle body, the shuttle. THEN release the bobbin case latch, three inches of thread running from the top of ] bobbin case latch, ID, Fig. 9, between the thumb and forefinger of the left hand. with at least (C). Be sure the bobbin case finger, (E), is 9 bobbin case (B) into the shuttle as far as C] cover plate to the left, See 14. Fig. 1 Hold the 3 opposite the shuttle race notch (A). Press the C] Raise needle bar to highest position, and Slide PLACING BOBBIN CASE IN SHUTTLE

11 +: - ::- :-:-: i left. 6. Pass the thread under the bar and up through insert, Fig. 1) 4. Run the thread through the thread guide bar to 2. Place a spool of thread on the spool pin. 3. Lead the thread through the upper arm thread 5. Draw the thread up through the check spring take-up lever to its highest position. guides. the tension discs, then around and between them from right to left. the eye of the take-up lever from right to draw toward the back of the machine, leaving both threads three or four inches long. can be pulled out straight. Place both thread ends under the slot of the presser foot and from the back. way down and comes back up. A loop will be formed over the upper thread which then 8. Thread needle FROM LEFT TO RIGHT, drawing it through about 3 or 4 inches. Hold the 7. Lead thread down through the face plate guides and then through the needle bar guide 1. Turn the balance wheel toward you to raise the UPPER THREADING and with a slight tug into the hook. (See end of upper thread loosely and turn hand wheel toward you until the needle goes all the Fig. 11 9

12 -- - ;- L ) ci needle plate upward, slipping upper pin on needle plate wrong side up. Hold needle plate with right hand and Fig. 12 in your accessory box. Both have narrow needle slots. and the straight stitch needle plate which are included Chanqinci the Foot and Plate. To change presser and lift off with cover plate 14 attached. Turn assembly cover plate with left. (ig. 12) Press corner of cover plate down slightly and pull machine and fasten securely with needle plate screws. (1) Buttonhole control knob A, set at (2) Zigzag Stitch Width control knob B, set at Lxg. needle plate into grove on cover plate. Slide upper pin Attach cover plate to straight stitch plate by reversing the above procedure. Slip pin on lower side of under lip and into groove on cover plate. Put plates on rial, you may want louse the straight stitch presser foot foot. (15, Fig. 1) loosen thumb screw 16 and remove C1 will break the needle. To change needle plate (13, Fig. 1) remove screws Be sure the machine controls are set as follows or you For straight sewing on fine fabric or very soft mate out of groove. Then slid lower pin out. zigzag foot. Replace with hinged narrow foot and ci STRAIGHT STITCHING.. là tigten screw securely.

13 Always adjust the upper tension with the presser foot down, counterclockwise to loosen. the number on the dial the tighter the tension. Before adjusting screw (Fig. 16) on side of the bobbin case clockwise to tighten, When necessary to change the bobbin tension, turn small the right, or clockwise. To decrease, turn to the left. The higher lower tension be sure that the machine is threaded properly. increase the tension on the upper thread, turn dial (Fig. 15) to as the tension is automatically released when it is raised. To ADJUSTING THE TENSIONS as far as it will go. 3he machine will sew backward as long as the button is held in. beginning or end of a seam, pres3 in the button R, Fig. 1., When you wish to sew backward to tie the threads at the SEWING IN REVERSE Number of stitches per inch No Feeding Figures on indicator you choose is indicated by the triangular pointer. to the left to shorten the stitch. The number of stitch length variety of lengths. Turn the dial to the right to lengthen and the dial may be set at any spot between the markings for a Fig. 14. Near is the shortest stitch and 5 is the longest, but The length of the stitch is regulated by the dial, shown in SETTING THE STITCH LENGTH STITCH LENGTH CHART (APPROXIMATE) Fig

14 L ç, v Fig. 17 Fig. 18 Fig. 19 ci C B GENERAL SEWING. Usually for straight sewing and various embroidery work, the pressure AND FEEDING OF FABRIC ADJUSTING PRESSURE Fig. 16 thread forms loops over the lower thread lying flat on When the upper tension is too loose the upper lying flat on the fabric (Fig. 17-B). thread is pulled up over the upper thread which is threads interlocking in fabric (Fig. 17-A). the fabric (Fig. 17-C). When the upper and under tensions are properly balanced, a perfect stitch will be formed with both When the upper tension is too tight, the lower bar cap or darning release Fig. 18 is at its lowest po3ition and the feed at its highest level-with the drop feed dial knob turned all the way to light marked NORM Fig. 19 r

15 begin sewing. By having the needle at its highest point, it is not necessary to touch the hand gulated by increasing or decreasing the amount of pressure exerted on the control. Place material and threads in position under the presser foot and lower the presser foot. Turn Have take-up lever at highest point before starting to sew. Do not try to help the feeding the hand wheel toward you until the needle is at its highest point. You are now ready to wheel to start the machine. You merely press the control. The speed of the machine is re.. NEVER run machine without material under presser foot. by pulling the material as this may deflect the needle and cause it to break. PREPARING TO SEW dialknob all the way light marked NORM the way to left marked EMBR which drops the feed well below and mending, release the pressure cap B completely by pressing down on the snap lock, A, Fig. 2. turn dial knob (Fig. 19) all the needle plate. To return feed to normal, turn the drop feed Fig. 2 :4. In order to move the fabric freely in any direction for darning DARNING AND MENDING the feed slightly by turning the dial knob (Fig. 18) to the point down. Release all the way by pressing the snap lock, A, Fig. silk or filmy material, the pressure cap should be about halfway 2, and then press cap B down again to haft-way spot. Lower When lighter pressure is required to sew satisfactorily on thin marked SILK SEWING THIN OR LIGHT WEIGHT FABRICS :

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17 to spring back to for a short period. Count, if necess C. Set stop at 1. Gradually move knob from 1 to 5, allowing it to snap back quickly. B. Set stop at 2 then move knob slowly between numbers 2 and 5 rather fast. ry, to establish a rhythm. A. Sew a few stitches at 5 width, then allow knob SAMPLES OF CREATIVE EMBROIDERY -Ic ferent designs can be made by turning the stitch width other combination of widths. Try setting the stop at 1 designs by the speed of the machine, stitch length and width and the manipulation of the lever. D LWWWWWMAw a while you will become quite skillful, varying your or zigzag knob back and forth between and 5 or any Embroidery patterns. such as 21/i and 5, in doing free-hand embroidery or buttonholes. the chosen stitch width number. Should you wish to move freely between any two widths, and 5, various other numbers. To stitch continuously at one width of zigzag stitching, set zigzag width stop Fig. 13 to Adjusting the stitch width. sible without stopping the feeding action. obtained by setting the stitch length as near the as pos short zigzag stitch, and the basis for most embroidery, With the machine set for a short stitch length, dif Set a rhythm for yourself and then proceed. After B,ugflhlIJ& lllhiilis.. A The satin stitch, Fig. 22, which is really just a very The 2½ width will be produced until the zigzag knob (Fig. 13) is moved to the 5 width. Fig. 22 Be sure zigzag presser foot and zigzag needle plate are in place. CREATIVE EMBROIDERY 15 I

18 is needed (see attachments available from your dealer illustrated in the back of this book.) the needle. on the darner. Push the drop feed button down Stretch the fabric in an embroidery hoop, and place under the needle after removing the presser hoop slowly with both hands. Work carefully and work free hand when embroidering or monogram machine at a rather high speed while moving the be sure to keep fingers out of the path of Should you encounter skip stitches, the fabric is not stretched tight enough or a darning spring and lower the presser bar lifter. Then operate the all the way. Fig. 23 foot. Set the stitch width at the size you prefer the foot by pressing down on the snap lock ring ming. (See Fig. 23). Release the pressure from EMBROIDERING WITH A HOOP petal. Continue until flower design is corntaking 3 or 4 stitches in center of design. stitches. Pivot fabric on needle to make next daisy plete. Lock threads by setting stitch width at and E. Drop feed, set stitch width lock at 5, take 3 It is easy to follow a stamped design or to or 4 stitches, leave needle in fabric left of feed for 3 or 4 stitches, then raise it again. By operating the feed knob rhythmically necessary it to count is stitches. not. Set zigzag stitch width stop at 4, stitch length at 1. Do a few zigzag stitches, drop e. C C.. C db.. C

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20 ( 1 C ;, (Ib ED away after stitching. e (8) Set buttonhole control at number 4 position for bar tack. Sew four or (9) Set buttonhole control at position and take two or three stitches to fasten bar tack to prevent ravelling. This will set the machine to sew in reverse. Sew right hand side of (2) Set buttonhole control at number 3 for right hand side cf buttonhole. (1) Cut the buttonhole opening with seam ripper, being careful not to cut the paper under fabric which can be torn sheer or soft material, place tarlatan or Fig. 27 If you plan to make buttonholes on stitching. Sew four or five stitches, step 2. five stitches, step 4. (6) Set buttonhole control at number 2 position for bar ticking. buttonhole, step 3. be sure to turn the buttonhole control When making additional buttonholes position to put the machine in forward stitching. knob to and back to the number 1

21 SEWING ON BUTTONS Remove hinged presser foot and attach button sewing foot. (Item 9 Fig. 37). See Fig Push drop feed button DOWN all the way. 3. Set zigzag stitch width stop at. Place the button so that its left hole comes directly under the needle, then gently lower the presser foot. 4. Move zigzag stitch width stop until the needle comes down exactly over the right hand hole in the button. Turn the hand wheel slowly by hand to be sure the needle enters both holes in button without deflecting needle, correct width if necessary. 5. When needle goes into the center of each hole, run the machine at medium speed, making six or eight stitches, stopping with the needle in the left hole. 6. To lock the zigzag stitch and prevent ravelling, set the stitch width at, and take a few stitches in the same hole. If you wish you may place a rounded toothpick over the button, between the two holes, and sew button to fabric in regular way. Fig. 28 Fig. 29 Remove the toothpick and wind thread under the button forming a shank, fasten. Apply the above method to sew on buttons with four holes, hooks and snaps, etc. If a four hole button is to be sewn, follow the same prooedure above for the two hole button. Now lift presser foot slightly and move fabric to permit stitching the remaining two holes. Hook, snaps, etc., are sewn to the fabric with the same procedure as for sewing two hole buttons. Fig. 3

22 Fig. 31 Fig. 32 Fig. 33 scroll. MMED HEM. To sew a narrow hem and attach lace in one stitchin;, insert lace in the regular presser foot with narrow hemmer (Fig. 32). For a plain narrow hem, make a./8 inch Guide material sligtly to right, and it will take a double turn through scroll. LACE TRI underneath hemmer. Bring fold up into the scroll of hemmer, lowering presser bar lifter, gently pull ends of thread as you start stitching. double fold for about two inches along edge of fabrrc. Hold each end of the two inches fold, slip NARROW HEMMER. (Item 1 Fig 4). With the needle at its highest position, replace (Item 13 Fig. 4) in threaded hole in bed of machine (Fig. 31) adjust to seam width desired. seams and even rows of sti ching along edges of fabric. Fasten gauge with accompanjring screw slot next to needle (Fig. 33). Sew hem as abdve, guiding lace under needle and hem into Seam gauge or clcth guide (Item 8 Fig. 4) use the seam gauge as a guide for straight HOW TO USE ACCESSORIES F 1

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24 .5. Put the bobbin case into the shuttle, fitting tongue into notch E of race cover. 4. Clean the shuttle race, the shuttle, and shuttle race 4. Put bobbin into bobbin case. When the cleaning has been completed, proceed as into position. with shuttle race cover clamps, (B), making ceriain the clamps have been snapped securely 3. Replace shuttle race cover, (C). fitting pin at lower edge into notch, and lock into positon 3. Turn the two shuttle race cover clamps (B) outward 2. Place shuttle body, (D), in race against shuttle driver and adjust into position. with the efficient operation of the machine. Cleaning and removal ci the lint will safeguard the performance. highest position. 1. Turn the balance wheel until the needle reaches its cover by removing all threads, lint, etc. follows to replace the shuttle assembly: 2. Remove bobbin case. and remove the shuttle race cover (C) and the shuttle 1. Turn the balance wheel until the needle reaches its To remove the shuttle assembly, proceed as follows: clogged with loose threads and lint. This will interfere highest position. Tilt head back on its hinges. body (D). Fig. 37 Fig. 38 The stitch forming mechanism occasionally becomes (See Fig. 37 and 38) CLEANING AND OILING THE SHUTTLE 22 C%J 4 I :1,! & : e.

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26 even See needle d thread chart, page No. 4.. on Trouble Probable Cause Correction Rewind bobbin. Increase tension. Tighten upper tension. Avoid pulling or holding material, just guide it. 24 See instruction page No. 6. See needle and thread chart, page No. 4. I thread being used Needle too fine for Poor quality thread Try different thread. upper thread Not enough tension Stitches material Bobbin not wound Uneven Pulling or holding Stitches too loose Improper threading See threading instruction, page No. 8. Irregular Upper thread tension Too fine a needle for thread being used correctly in clamp Needle place in- Skipping Bent needle Discard and replace. Stitches

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28 L - ( 4 (Fig. 4) el S * Quilter Guide (graduated) Large Screw Driver Small Screw Driver Bobbins (3) Button Sewing Foot Plastic Oiler (Sealed arid Filled) Package of Needles (5) Felt Washers (2) <for spool pins) Cloth Guide Buttonhole Foot $..2 ).. ) Presser Foot for Straight Sewing Narrow Hemmer Thumb Screw Needle Plate for Straight Sewing ACCESSORIES e 172 c i 26

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30 - - :. : 4., z , I- 4 W *j,;r; SCARBOROUGH, ONTARIO, CANADA 147 BIRCHMOUNT ROAD WHITE SEWING MACllNES In Canada: CLEVELAND, OHIO Berea Road WHITE SEWING MACHINE COMPANY If a sewing machine dealer is not available mail your inquiry directly to: of receiving the genuine part designed for best performance with your ask him to order them for you by part number. Then you will be assured machine.. cost from your dealer. If your dealer cannot supply you with these items, e 1 been designed specifically for your machine. They are available at modest The following pages illustrate additional time saving attachments that have described earlier in this book. Your sewing machine comes equipped with the basic set of accessories iz

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32 Slot 5 may be used as a guide in stitching a french seam. ing lace insertions, edgings and pip narrow piping, place the fabric in slot 2 and the folded edge of the piping to the right in slot 3. the piping to the left in slot 3, for a the fabric in slot 4, end the fold of Fig. 45 Fig 46 To trim with a wide piping, place The edgestitcher is used in mak 45, and the other piece in slot 4. material you want on top in slot. Fig. sew lace edging to fabric, place the ing. The slots serve as guides. To EDGESTITCHER mounting screw. or as far away from the edge as desired. Just move the The mounting slot enables you to sew as close to screw. attachment to the left as ar as possible and tighten attachment to the correct position before tightening the Mount binder, edgestitcher or hemmers sliding the replace it with the attachment foot. Fig. 44 hernmers, it is necessary to remove the presser foot and In order to attach the binder, edgestitcher and the ATTACHMENT FOOT I

33 folded bias binding. unfolded bias strips cut 15/16 inch wide. Cut a point on folded binding, insert in appropriate by sliding binder to right or left. one operation. When two are used, always skip one couple of inches. Cut binding diagonally toward end, back until cut opens and binding encircles open end adjust if necessary of scroll. Test stitching to be sure it is on the edge pin. Test stitching to be sure it is on the edge. Adjust almost to fold. Slip fold into center of binder. Draw Cut 15/16 inch bias binding fold in half for a slot. Draw through slot and under binder with strong Two bindings can be sewn on fabric edge also in size between widths, inserting each in correct size slot. The open mouth of binder scroll is used for TWO-TONE BINDING (Fig. 47) edge of material in one operation. Slots on scroll of the binder are for corresponding widths of commercial This attachment folds bias binding, applies it to the FOLDED BINDING (Fig. 47) HAND-CUT BIAS BINDING (Fig. 48) Fig. 47 Fig. 48 BINDER 31

34 RUFFLER CJ - A Fig. 49 Fig. 5 Fig. 51 The ruffler will produce yards of delicate ruffling or precision pleating. Ruffling can also be done and sewn to another piece of fabric at the same time. This highly versatile attachment despite its wide range of use, is simple to use. Use the ruffler for making aprons, curtains, pleating a skirt, adding fullness to the bodice of a dress and etc. Fig. 49A Fig. 5A Fig. 51A

35 - 33 THE ADJUSTABLE CORDING AND ZIPPER FOOT This attachment is used to make and insert covered cording, and to sew in zippers. Loosen thumb screw to slide foot to either right or left of needle. CORDING. Fold bias strip of fabric over cord. Loosen thumb screw and set foot so needle is cen tered in needle hole. Machine baste cord in place (Fig. 52). Fig. 52 To sew covered cord to foot so needle stitches closer to cord,.and on edge of base fabric. SEWING IN ZIPPER Fig. 53 ioosen thumb screw and slide foot so needle enters center of needle hole. GuidemetaI- of/!zper along edge of foot (Fig. 53) -Stitchinghöuld be close to zipper to allow easy opening. and c1oing. Adjust to sew from either right or. left side, which ever is more convenient. - -

36 N c--- 1 C C place, hold top thread loosely and turn handwheel one Before attaching any of the hemmers. Be sure of hemmer. Fold material to suit for two inches along edge, Fig. 54 THE SET OF HEMMERS full turn toward you, making a loop under hemmer. [1 I -i4;:;-. \\\ -./ - CI C 34 PATCHING AND MONOGRAMMING Remove presser foot, unthread needle, place darner spring, on needle and slip hook up over needle clamp. See Page 18 Fig V / -- H HOW TO ATTACH - DARNING SPRING up over spoon (Fig. 54). Fold hem in material back of hemmer. Draw forward to end of hem and fasten with point of needle. Pull on threads gently as you start stitching. Grasp bobbin thread with both bands and slip bobbin thread is pulled up. Then, with hemmer in horizontally under hemmer toward back. Bobbin thread will catch loop and carry upper thread to back hold at each end of fold. Slip fold into guide and -ci

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