Do It Yourself Upholstery Instructions

Transcription

1 Do It Yourself Upholstery Instructions 1

2 Part 1: Chapter 1 Part 2: Chapter 2 Chapter 3 Part 3: Chapter 4 Chapter 5 Part 4: Chapter 6 Part 5: Chapter 7 Chapter 8 Part 6: Chapter 9 Chapter 10 Part 7: Chapter 11 Chapter 12 Part 8: Chapter 13 Chapter 14 Part 9: Chapter 15 Chapter 16 Part 10: Chapter 17 Chapter 18 Part 11: Chapter 19 Tools & Accessories Essentials in Frames Springing Up Edging without Stitching Blind Stitched Pad Seats The Stitched Edge The Pillow Edge Simple Pad Backs Circular Backed Pieces Pad Back & Arms Spring Backed Pieces Double Stuffed Pad Backs Overstuffed Pad Upholstering Tailored Piping & Buttoning The Spring Pillow Simple Buttoning Pleated Buttoning Buttoning Circular Backs Tufting Spring Backs 2

3 Chapter 20 Part 12: Chapter 21 Chapter 22 Chapter 23 Part 13: Chapter 24 Chapter 25 Part 14: Chapter 26 Chapter 27 Part 15: Chapter 28 Chapter 29 Part 16: Chapter 30 Chapter 31 Chapter 32 Part 17: Chapter 33 Chapter 34 Chapter 35 Part 18: Chapter 36 Chapter 37 Part 19: Chapter 38 Chapter 39 Part 20: Chapter 40 Tufting Spring Seats Deep Spring & Double Deck Seats Built-Up Down Cushioned Backs Spring Edged & Down Cushions Down Pads as Top Stuffing Tufting Down Pad Pieces Down Cushions on Small Chairs Divided Cushion Backs & Seats The Chaise Lounge Built Up Double Cushioning Planning the Covering Gimping Repairing & Polishing Trimming over Stuffed Pieces Bands & Banding Cording & Liming Ready Made Roll Edging How Long Will It Take To Do A Good Job The Handling of Leather Loose Down Cushion Seat Pillows and Cushions 3

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5 Chapter 1 Tools and Accessories There is room always for differences of opinion as to whether it is most convenient to support work on a pair of "horses" or on a work bench, but either will do. Advocates of horses, as illustrated in figures l, 1A and 1B claim that they take up less room; they fit all jobs; can be easily stored away when not in use; they are inexpensive, easily moved and in general thoroughly satisfactory. On the other hand those who have a preference for a bench have many faults to find with horses, some of which are exposed as follows: First of all, horses occupy a greater area of floor space, because of their projecting legs, than the job actually requires, particularly in the case of chairs. Again horses are unstable. An accidental bump against the job throws the horses out of line. With horses the upholsterer is more or less compelled to work "around the job." That is unless he goes to a great deal of trouble in turning the job around on the horses or in having somebody help him in turning them, you might also find yourself working with the light, against the light, in your own light, or on the opposite side from which his light comes. 5

6 For certain jobs where a flat, level surface is required the tops of the horses offer the only working height available. Then the upholsterer is forced to assume an awkward, uncomfortable position, either sitting or stooping, while at times he must reach away back under the job, like for instance in the sewing in of back springs or in tufting a back from behind. The bench, on the other hand, offers a sturdy support unaffected by occasional bumps, readily moved from place to place by the upholsterer. A club chair may be set squarely on the bench platform and may be turned on its own feet so that every side is presented at will to the upholsterer who remains stationary where he gets the best light. When working on the back of large pieces, you have the advantage of using the arms of the bench, which gives a convenient height, or, for smaller pieces which rest upon the bench platform, you can lean them back against a bench arm, which gives you a convenient and comfortable standing position from which every portion of your work is within easy reach. The bench, moreover, provides a solid platform on which slip seats or cushions may be manipulated from a seated position, or by the utilization of a rack or boards placed across the bench arms larger cushions may be manipulated from a standing position. There is still a major consideration in favor of the bench, and that is, either with or without a side extension such as is shown in the illustrations, figures 2, 2A, 2B, 2C and 2D, it offers a convenient and secure place upon which the upholsterer can lay his tools. It is true that the trough of a horse offers a place to lay tools, but not with the same security as is provided by the bench. So far as the occupied floor space is concerned, there is little to choose between the two forms we have been discussing. In storing or in moving shop equipment from floor to floor or building to building, horses may have an advantage over the more substantial and sturdy bench, but this by no means diminishes a confirmed bench user's preference for the bench type. The horses shown in Fig.1 are 24 to 30 inches from floor to bottom of trough about 30 inches long, having a top surface between side strips, 4 to 5 inches wide and with sufficient leg spread to give a dependable and sturdy support to the work in hand. The most important tool, and that most used by the upholsterer, is the hammer. It should be neither too heavy nor too light, with a medium face, convenient claw, and made of steel of the finest temper. The perfect hammer is so balanced that an arc described from the end of the handle will pass through the center of the head from face to claw. 6

7 The kit should contain, in addition to the regular upholsterer's hammer, a small claw hammer for general heavy purposes, similar to Fig the hammer size should be from one-half to three-quarters of an inch. A good pair of scissors are also very important, and may have straight or bent handles. Scissors should be heavy enough to cut easily the various weights of upholstery fabrics, and not too weighty to be handled with ease. Various kinds of needles are required, governed more or less by the nature of the work in hand. Thus, the diamond, triangular or spear point is best for leather, while the round point is best for cotton and jute fabrics. The eye of the needle should be oblong rather than round, and in selecting them, next to temper, the strength of the eye is the most important consideration. The complete kit of needles should include one or more two and a half, four and six-inch circular needles like Fig. 7, and one or more six, eight, ten, twelve and fourteeninch double-pointed needles, as Fig. 8. For some purpose single-pointed needles, Fig. 9 might be used, but when one is accustomed to their use the double-pointed needle is more convenient for tufting and stitching purposes. A three and four inch packing needle, as Fig. 10, and a gross of upholsterer's skewers, as Fig. 11, are also necessary. 7

8 Circular needles are measured from point to point, across the bow, straight needles from tip to tip. Webbing stretchers are necessary, that of Fig. 12 for new work where the webbing is used from the roll but look in your local upholstery store for others. In addition to a yard stick and tape line, the upholsterer requires a steel rule two feet long, as Fig. 15 (above) pivoted for folding in the middle. It should be graduated to eighths and sixteenths and sufficiently flexible to be easily bent into a half circle. Various kinds of trimming knives are used, but the shape of Fig. 16 is satisfactory for general purposes. A ripping chisel, as Fig. 17 is a very convenient tool, as is also a hardwood mallet, with a face about two and a half inches in diameter. Quality is the prime essential in the selection of all upholstery tools. The tools we have illustrated are not intended to represent the only practical articles of their kind but only those most generally in use. 8