PatternMaker Pattern Drafting Sofware for PC. Learning Center. Patterns. PatternMaker Sewing projects Women's Camisole. Home page.
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1 Home page Svensk manual Suomeksi PatternMaker dealers Counter started Site Map December 5th, 2001 PatternMaker Pattern Drafting Sofware for PC Versions & prices Download & buy Demo version Macro collections Services Contact information Learning Center Tutorials Measuring Sewing instructions Sewing projects Pattern drafting PDF-version of this page Get AcrobatReader PatternMaker Sewing projects Women's Camisole Patterns Draft patterns for camisole using women's basic bodice as basis. Choose the dart option to side seam. These patterns can only be used for camisoles sewn of elastic fabrics. If you are going to sew the camisole of non-elastic fabric, use ladies' blouse macro where you can choose among three ease categories.
2 Seams Sew the seams with medium zigzag stitch and medium stitch length. The seams do not need to be overlocked, if you do not want to, because lingerie jersey does not ravel. If you own a serger, sew seams with it. Seam allowances When cutting the garment pieces add a 0.7 cm (1/4") seam allowance. After having sewn the seams trim them to their half width. Edgings Top edge of camisole: Cut 5 cm (2") wide binding strip from knit fabric crosswise grain. Machine baste the strip to the right side of the of the garment right sides together. Match raw edges. Sew through shoulder straps on back. Start at one front corner and stop at the other front corner. Leave some extra length at the beginning and the end of the binding. Fold binding over the edge to the wrong side of the garment. Sew with 3-step zigzag on the right side along the edge. Trim away excess fabric on the wrong side of the edge. Fold excess length of the binding at the front corners to the wrong side of the garment.
3 Hem: You can finish the hem the same way you finished the top edges. Stretch binding less than at top. Overlap the binding on one side seam. Another technique: A very neat edge binding is sewn in the following way. Fold a 2" wide binding strip lengthwise into two wrong side in and sew it to the wrong side of the garment's edge, raw edges matching. Use 1/2" wide seam allowance. Trim seam allowance. Fold binding around the edge to the right side of the garment along stitch line and edgestitch along the folded edge. Refer to the drawing below. If you want to binding to reduce the edge, stretch the binding when applying it. If the binding must stretch a lot, you can edtestitch it with 3-stitch zigzag. You can sew the edgestitching entirely on the binding or only half of it on the binding. If the fabric used to the edge binding is not elastic enough, sew transparent elastic into the seam. Hint: You can use contrasting colour fabric to the binding strip. There are instructions of how to sew a neat bound edging also in the sewing instructions. general Lace decorations Use narrow zigzag stitches and shorter than medium stitch length when
4 sewing laces and lace appliqués to lingerie. Use Magic transparent tape to hold the lace or the appliqués on the fabric, stitch close to the edges of the lace and finally trim away fabric on the wrong side of the garment under the lace or the appliqué. Apply lace to a garment piece before sewing it to another garment piece. Applying lace to corners When applying lace to corners of lingerie garments fold the lace according to picture. Place lace right side up on the right side of the garment. Match the scalloped edge of the lace to the raw edge of the garment. Use pins in corners to shape the lace. Using narrow zigzag stitches sew along the inner edge of the lace through tape. Trim away the fabric under the lace on the wrong side of the garment. Finally, stitch across the corners through layers of lace. Remove tape. Trim away excess lace in the corners. Applying lace to curves Place the lace on the fabric right sides facing. Match the scalloped edge of the lace to the raw edge of the garment. flatten the lace. Tape or pin to place. Make clips to the lace from the inner edge, following motifs if possible. Overlap and Using narrow zigzag and stitch along the inner edge of the lace through tape. Trim away the fabric under the lace. Zigzag through overlapped layers of lace,
5 follow motifs if possible. Remove tape. Trim away excess lace close to stitches. Mittered slit opening Place the lace wrong side up on the right side of the garment. Fold it according to picture. Use pins in corners to shape the lace. Using narrow zigzag stitches sew along the inner edge of the lace through tape. Remove tape. Trim away the fabric under the lace on the wrong side of the garment. Trim away excess lace in the corner on the wrong side. If you want to, continue using lace at the hem, refer to the picture. Sewing instructions for camisole 1. Apply lace to top edge of front piece Fold front piece of the camisole along CF line. Fold lace in half right sides together and place on the CF-line of the top edge of the front piece. Match scalloped edges of the lace to raw edges of camisole. Cut lace along CF line leaving 0.7 cm (1/4") seam allowance. Using narrow zigzag sew the CF seam of the lace. Another technique is illustrated in the drawing above.
6 Unfold front piece and lace. Tape lace on the top edge of the garment matching scalloped edge of lace to raw edge of camisole. Sew along the inner edge of the lace through tape. Remove tape. Cut away fabric under the lace near stitches. 2. Sew bust darts Sew bust darts with zigzag or serger. Trim seam allowances near stitches. 3. Sew side seams Sew side seams of the garment. Trim seam allowances. Fold hem allowance to the wrong side of the garment and sew from right side with 3-stitch zigzag and trim seam allowance. 4. Sew shoulder straps Cut a fabric strip twice as wide as you want the shoulder strap to be + seam allowance. Fold the strip in half lengthwise wrong side up and sew the seam with narrow zigzag or serger. Trim seam allowance if necessary near stitches. The easiest way to turn the tube is to use an ordinary hair pin. Cut a small hole on fold about 1.5 cm (1/4") from one end. Insert the pin through the hole and into the tube as in the picture. Guide the hair pin through the strap to the other end. Trim the end where you cut the hole. 5. Finish top edges Remove seam allowance from the top edges of the front and the back piece of
7 the camisole. Pin shoulder straps to their places on the back piece. Cut 5 cm (2") wide binding strip from knit fabric crosswise grain. Machine baste the strip to the right side of the of the garment right sides together. Match raw edges. Sew through shoulder straps on back. Start at one front corner and stop at the other front corner. Leave some extra length at the beginning and the end of the binding. Fold binding over the edge to the wrong side of the garment. Sew with 3-step zigzag on the right side along the edge. Trim away excess fabric on the wrong side of the edge. Fold excess length of the binding at the front corners to the wrong side of the garment. 6. Attach shoulder straps to front corners Pin the shoulder straps to the wrong side of the front corners under the folded edge binding and try the camisole on. Adjust the length if necessary. Sew two vertical rows of narrow zigzag stitches across the right side of the the front corners through the straps. Trim excess shoulder straps if necessary. 6. Sew hem Sew binding to the hem the same way you finished the top edges. Stretch binding lightly when sewing. Overlap the binding on one side seam. 7. Sew slits
8 Sew mittered slits with lace to bottom of side seams. Fold lace according to the photos, tape in place and sew with narrow zigzag along the inner edge of the lace. Leave extra length for the lace hem allowance. Trim away fabric under the lace and extra lace on corners. Fold lace seam allowance to the wrong side and zigzag on right side. Another design idea Cut one or more motifs of lace fabric to decorate the edges of the garment as in the other camisole. First finish the edge with a binding strip. Then tape the lace motif on top of the edge and sew with narrow zigzag along the inner edges of the lace motif. Finally, trim away fabric (and the edge binding) under the lace motif on the wrong side. Shape the top edge of the camisole if necessary to match the shape of the lace. Apply a lace motif to the hem, too, like in the sample garment.
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10 If the lace is very soft or slack, sew clear elastic to the wrong side of the top edge of the lace. First machine baste it to the wrong side of the lace. Stretch the elastic when basing. Then zigzag on the right side on the elastic. If the binding fabric is not elastic enough, you can apply invisible elastic in the binding seam. A couple of Internet addresses If you have difficulties in getting fabrics and notions for lingerie, please refer to the following websites Spandex House SewSassy Clotilde Nancy's Notions Fabric.com
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