11/2011 Brocade wrap trousers
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1 11/2011 Brocade wrap trousers By: burda style magazine Brocade wrap trousers burda style magazine patterns FAQ 1
2 Materials Brocade Step 1 Preparation Paper cut for ANSI A (German DIN A4) prints: This pattern is printed on sheets of plain paper. Do not scale or center pages before printing. Wait until all sheets are printed out before beginning to tape them together. Do not cut out pattern pieces yet Arrange the sheets on a large, hard, flat surface so that they fit together, matching up like numbers and letters (i.e. 6A to 6A). To tape pattern together, fold under the margin of one piece (6A) and tape right against the line of it s matching number/letter (6A). burda style magazine pattern do not have seam allowance included. Seam and hem allowances to be added: Seams and edges 1.5 cm (5/8 in). Step 2 Cutting out 2
3 Brocade: 21right front trouser piece 1x â â left front trouser piece 1x â â pocket piece 2x 22back trouser piece 2x 23right front waistband piece 2x â â left front waistband piece 2x 24back waistband, on a fold 2x a) welt, 12 cm (43/4 ins) long, 4 cm (11/2 ins) wide, finished width 2 cm (3/4 in), b) pocket piece (back pocket), 15 cm (6 ins) wide, 13 cm (51/4 ins) long (incl. allowances). Lining: pocket piece (piece 21) twice and pocket piece (piece b) once. Interfacing: See pattern layout. Iron a strip of interfacing, 4 cm (15/8 in) wide, to wrong side of right back trouser piece, over pocket marking. Iron Vilene Bias Tape/stay tape to zip opening edges and to pocket openâ ing edges (inseam pockets). Step 3 Darts Stitch back darts and press toward centre. Work from inside to stitch pleats in front trouser pieces, from upper edge to arrow mark. Lay the pleats in direction of arrow and baste to upper edge. 3
4 Step 4 Construct slashed pocket with welt on right back trouser piece Fold welt lengthwise, right side facing out, and press. Mark an abutting line for welt, 2 cm (3/4 in) below welt joining line (finished width of welt). Baste folded welt over welt joining line so that fold edge meets abutting line and open long edges lie between pocket lines. Stitch welt in place along welt joining line. Stitch pocket piece of outer fabric in place, along pocket joining line. Slash between lines of stitching and clip diagonally to each last stitch. Do not cut pocket -piece. Turn welt into pocket opening. Pull pocket piece to inside. Stitch pocket lining piece to allowances of welt joining seam. Fold small fabric triangles at pocket opening ends to inside and stitch to welt and pocket pieces, from seam end to seam end. Trim pocket pieces even and stitch together. Step 5 Side seams Stitch forwarded side seams, not stitching across pocket openings. Step 6 Inseam pockets Pin the pocket pieces right sides together with seam allowances of pocket opening edges â lining pieces in front, pocket pieces of outer fabric in back. Stitch pocket pieces close to side seam and exactly on seam line at pocket opening. Press pocket pieces forward and stitch together. Baste upper edges of pocket pieces in place. Step 7 Zip Sew invisible zips to inside trouser leg edges, from hem line to slit mark. Stitch inside leg seams from upper edge to zip. Step 8 Zip Sew the invisible zip to front slit edges. Stitch centre back seam and centre front seam as continuous seam, up to zip. In back, press allowances of centre seam open, from upper edge to beginning of curve. Do not press seam allowances flat along curve. At left front opening edge, turn seam allowance with zip tape to inside and baste to upper trouser edge. Do not turn seam allowance and zip tape on right edge of opening to inside. On right front trouser piece, fold front edge to inside on fold line and baste to upper edge, then baste seam allowance with zip tape in place. Step 9 Waistband Stitch side seams of waistband units. Stitch outer waistband to upper trousers edge. Press allowances of joining seam onto waistband. Lay inside waistband right sides together with attached waistband unit. Stitch along front ends and upper edge of waistband. Trim allowances, trimming corners diagonally. Turn waistband right side out. Turn in inside edge and baste over joining seam. Work from outer side to stitch along seam line. Sew upper snap half to inside of right waistband end. Pin right waistband end to left end, matching center fronts. Sew lower snap half to left front waistband. Work buttonhole for inside button in left end of waistband. Sew button to inside of waistband. 4
5 Step 10 Hem Press hem allowances to inside and sew in place by hand. 11/2011 Brocade wrap trousers 5
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