Kate s WINTER OUTFIT. KNIT Dress, Fur Lined Cap, Boots & Vest

Transcription

1

2 Kate s WINTER OUTFIT by E V Y H AW K I N S PHOTOGRAPHY BY LYDIA MARIA HAWKINS This sweet knit dress is just right for crisp days and, when paired with the fur-lined accessories, perfect for really chilly weather. Or, stitch up a winter wonderland outfit suitable for not-sowintry weather too. This simple dress is fun to fancy up with trim, appliqués, or other embellishments! Our sample dress sports rows of Sashiko machine flip-stitched floss lined up across the bodice and around the hem and cuffs. The vest, cap, and boot straps are embroidered with sweet little birds and berries from the Wrenly design set by A Bit of Stitch. Soft faux fur and sturdy knit fabrics make this outfit comfortable and easy to care for! We have featured the boots and the cap instructions. All patterns and instructions for the dress, vest, cap, and boots can be downloaded from. sizing for the dress, vest and cap is 8 months. Boots size is a 4-5. Dress, Vest & Cap, size 8 months Boots, size 4-5 Boot Strap 8 KNIT Dress, Fur Lined Cap, Boots & Vest 82

3 CAP Kate's Winter Outfit Cap - download at Cap - /4 yard (use same fabric as vest) Lining - /2 yard* (use same fabric as vest lining) Notions Sewing thread to match fabric Two 20" lengths of grosgrain or satin ribbon (5/8" wide) to match cap fabric (OR create fabric straps as desired) *Only /4 yard is needed for the cap lining, but an additional 2" x 2" (at least) will be used for the bias-cut fur brim. If the fabric is a bit stretchy, the brim piece may be cut on the straight grain.. Cut out the cap pieces according to the pattern. Embellish the cap fabric pieces with embroidery if desired. This pattern requires a ½" seam allowance. When applying embroidery, do not let the embroidery extend into the seam allowance areas. Refer to the stabilizer tips given in the vest instructions. NOTE: The cap shown in this article was embroidered after the cap fabric pieces were sewn together so that a continuous embroidery design could be used. 2. Note the cap front and back on all pieces. 3. Pin the cap side fabric pieces to the center gusset fabric piece, right sides together. Sew both seams, one on each side of the gusset. Take care NOT to stretch the fabric as you sew. Heavier fabric may require a bit of easing over the crown area of the cap. Take care not to let the fabric pleat or pucker. Repeat for the fur lining pieces. 4. Clip the seam allowances along the curves of the fabric cap and press open as much as possible. Working from the right side, top stitch a fat /8" from the seam on both sides (photo ) Having a beautiful ensemble, complete with a matching warm cap, makes any little girl want to run outside on a cold winter afternoon! Trim away the excess seam allowance next to the top stitching on the wrong side (photo 2). 6. Trim the seam allowances on the cap lining to ¼" and zigzag stitch. 7. Fold the brim fur piece in half lengthwise, wrong sides together. Place it on the right side of the fabric cap along the front edge, aligning the long raw edges. Zigzag stitch through all layers along the cap s front edge (photo 3). 8. Place a cap tie on each side of the cap at the bottom edge near the front, aligning the end of the tie with the raw edge of the cap. Sew in place ¼" from the edge (photo 4). 9. Slip the cap into the cap lining, right sides together. Make sure the gusset seams are aligned. Pin the cap and cap lining together and sew all around, leaving an opening at the lower back center (photo 5). NOTE: Make sure the ties are tucked away from the edges so they will not be caught in the stitching when you join the lining to the cap fabric. 0. Trim the seam allowances to 3/8", grading the front edge if necessary. Clip the corners. Turn right side out. Hand sew the opening closed. 84

4 BOOTS Kate's Winter Outfit Boot - download at Boot - 8" x 28" (wool/rayon felt or felted wool) Lining - 8" x 24" (use same fabric as vest lining and cap lining) Leather in a color to match or blend with the boot fabric - 6" x 0" Wool/rayon felt in a color to match or blend with the lining fabric - 2" x 8" Thread Sewing thread to match boot fabric and lining fabric 85. Cut out the boot pieces according to the pattern. The seam allowance is /2" unless otherwise noted. Transfer all pattern markings to fabric pieces. NOTE: If you wish to cut larger leather skid pads for your boots, make sure to allow at least 5/8" space between the pad and the raw edge of the boot sole. 2. Glue the leather skid pads to the right side of the boot soles, applying the glue only at the center of the pads (photo ). 3. Top stitch the leather pads to the boot soles close to the edges of the pads. Increase the stitch length and use a sharp, size 4 needle. You may need to use a stronger needle, but for most dress weight leather, a size 4 should work (photo 2). 4. Sew the darts in the boot side pieces (on the wrong side) and press them toward the back of the boot. 5. Align the front edges of the boot side pieces, right sides together, and sew. Clip seam allowance (photo 3). NOTE: When working with felted wool and most high-quality wool/ rayon felt, it should not be necessary to trim the seam allowance selvage. If the fabric you are using for the boots is stiff or very heavy, you may wish to trim the seam allowance selvage to 3/8". 6. Press open the seam allowances. From the right side, top stitch slightly less than ¼" away from the seam on both sides (photo 4). 7. Align the back edges of the boot sides, right sides together, and sew from the marked point to the bottom edge. Press the seam open and top stitch (from the right side) to the left and right of the seam, traveling across the point just below the opening as well (photo 5). 8. Pin the boot to the sole, right sides together, and sew from the top (photo 6 & 7). 9. Trim the seam allowances to ¼". Clip the curves and turn right side out (photo 8). 0. Repeat steps 4 through 7 for the boot side lining pieces, EXCEPT instead of pressing the seam allowances open and top stitching, trim them to ¼" and zigzag stitch (photo 9).. Pin and sew the boot lining to the boot inner sole, leaving an opening for turning on one side (photo 0). 2. Insert the boot into the boot lining (right sides together). Clip the boot fabric seam allowance at the top of the center back seam so that boot fabric will lie flat against the lining. Align center back seams and all raw edges. Pin and then sew (photo ). 3. Clip the corners and trim a small amount of selvage away (photo 2). 4. Pull the boot through the opening in the boot lining. Hand sew the opening closed (photo 3). 5. Push the lining down into the boot. If desired, tack the lining to the inside of the boot at the toe and heel to keep it from pulling out when a little foot is removed this princess UNKNOWN 3 boots Forget glass slippers, wears! 86

5 BOOT STrAP Kate's Winter Outfit Boot Strap download at Wool/rayon felt in a color to match boot lining - 2" x 6" Thread Matching sewing thread Contrasting sewing thread (match boot fabric color) Notions 2 shank style buttons (/2" or 5/8") These little boot straps are not just decorative! They can be used to snug up the boot on your little one s foot. It is fun to embellish them with pretty embroidery. designer tip 4 These boots can be worn without the straps, but what a fun way to add embroidery to footwear! For a simpler look, skip the straps and turn the tops of the boots down to form cuffs. I m thinking that I may need to make embroidered felt boot straps for my own boots this winter! SOURCES: Wrenly embroidery designs Wool/rayon felt - German Interfacing - French Terry Knit - Double knit fabric shown was pur- a b Evy Hawkins delights in creating original and unusual designs, projects, patterns and tutorials for the wonderful world of stitching. She currently travels and teaches at sewing events throughout the USA and also online. Visit her website to see what s happening in her studio today. chased in store at Evy Trace two of the boot strap pattern onto the felt. Mark the location of the buttonholes and choose embroidery designs that will fit within the perimeter of the strap up to the buttonhole area. Lightly fuse one layer of sheer cut-away stabilizer to the felt before embroidering. When the design is finished, peel up and cut away the excess stabilizer around the design. 2. For a pretty finish, cut out the straps using a pinked edge rotary cutter or pinking shears. Top stitch around the edges of the straps using a decorative, contrasting thread. In our sample straps, the edges have been stitched on Baby Lock s Sashiko machine using a variegated sewing thread. 3. Sew buttonholes where indicated on the straps. For best results, stabilize the felt with tear-away stabilizer before stitching the buttonholes. Sew the button in the appropriate place on the opposite end of the strap. The strap should fit snuggly around the boot without causing it to bunch up (photos 4 & 5). DESIGNER S NOTES This was such a fun outfit to make! I love embroidery, and I really love fast embroidery! The designs I used for the vest, cap and boot straps are from my Wrenly collection a set of bean stitch designs that stitch out very quickly. I used regular sewing thread (mostly in variegated colors) instead of embroidery thread, so the designs really pop on the knit fabric and felt that I chose. Of course, my Sassy Girl (Baby Lock s Sashiko machine) had to get in on the action! The dress hem, bodice front, and sleeve edges are all decorated with flip-stitched embroidery floss using the same variegated sewing thread I used for the little red berries in the embroidery (photos a & b). Check for many varieties of double and ponte knit. 88