By Laurie Pessetto. Instructions:

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1 Materials: 1 yard Fusi Form Lightweight Interfacing (fusible) 1 ¼ yards base fabric 1 ½ yards contrast fabric 3 packages of medium rick rack (7½ yards) Thread Button Stitch Witchery Tools: Fabric scissors Measuring tape Cardboard grid cutting surface Pins Iron Ironing board Press cloth Sewing machine Washable marker Instructions: Select a pattern or create one of your own using Pattern Ease and a needle roller tracing wheel if your existing apron is made of a woven fabric. A needle roller tracing wheel makes it easy to copy a garment pattern without taking the garment apart, but can only be used on woven fabrics. You may download the pattern pictures and create your own copy of the Pattern Ease Vintage 1950 s Style Apron Pattern at the HTC website. By Laurie Pessetto I am fortunate to have inherited aprons from grandmothers on both sides of my family. They wore them, and now I wear them. These women were lucky to have a machine that sewed a straight line and some fabric scraps. Most likely, they did not have patterns. It is fun to see the hand stitched button hole and how grandmother Noni put the pieces together on her apron. Sadly these aprons don t last forever. My daughter is hoping she gets them next. Some of them will make it, but others are becoming quite thin. This day long project will keep Noni s apron alive for a new generation, even if the fabric is not the same. Fusi Form Lightweight Interfacing was a good match for the weight of the fabric. The ability to fuse the interfacing gave stability to the yoke, back and pockets. The effect is crisp and neat giving the apron a very finished look. You might trace your pattern using a needle tracing wheel and butcher paper, or you can create a re usable pattern with Pattern Ease, a nonwoven tracing and interfacing material. A pattern created with Pattern Ease will last through multiple uses without tearing or wrinkling even where it is pinned. As you create your pattern organize the order of construction for each piece, ie. the edging on the pockets must be completed before attaching them to the apron. A companion to this article, HTC Pattern Ease Vintage Apron Pattern Making Project, includes complete step by step instructions on how to create a pattern for this apron. Click here for the companion project. Skill Level: This project is an easy sewing level. Hemming the curves and keeping the rick rack placement even as you sew are the things to focus on for a beginner. On the left is an apron created and worn by Grandma Noni. On the right is my 2014 version of her apron using Fusi Form Lightweight Interfacing (fusible).

2 Purchase woven, washable fabrics for the apron. Cotton blends will be best as they hang evenly and are highly washable. Prewash and dry the fabric and the rick rack. If necessary iron them flat before cutting the pieces out. 1. Cut the fabric pieces on the grain from the base and contrasting fabrics. You also can use one type of fabric for the entire apron if you prefer. 1. Cut the fabric pieces on the grain. 2. Cut the Fusi Form Lightweight interfacing and the button tab facing pieces. 2. Cut the Fusi Form Lightweight interfacing and the button tab facing pieces. The Fusi Form Lightweight interfacing seam allowance should be trimmed before you bond it to the fabric. 3a. Position the Fusi Form interfacing shiny side down on the wrong side of the fabric. Set the iron on the cotton setting and press, using a press cloth, between 3 5 seconds with steam. 3b. Fuse the Fusi Form to the back and front yoke pieces, the button tabs, and pockets on the wrong side of the fabric. 3c. Test the bond after pressing for 3 seconds and increase the time if necessary for a secure fuse. 4. Finish the straight edge of each button facing by folding over once and stitching. 5. Pin the button facings to the back fabric pieces, rights sides touching. 3a. Fuse the Fusi Form to the front yoke pieces. 3c. Test the bond after pressing for 3 seconds and increase time if necessary for a secure fuse. 3b. Fuse the Fusi Form to the back yoke pieces, the button tabs, and pockets on the wrong side of the fabric. 4. Finish the straight edge of each button facing by folding over once and stitching. 6. Stitch the button facings to the back pieces. 5. Pin the button facings to the back pieces. 6. Stitch the button facings to the back pieces. 7. Trim the seams and points.

3 8. Turn and press the button facings. 9. Stitch the button facing straight edges down. 10. Stitch the shoulder seams of the front yoke and the two back pieces. Zig zag or serge the seams and press. 7. Trim the seams and points. 8. Turn and press the button facings. 11. Do a basting stitch along the scallops to draw the edges up a little to make it easier to turn them under. 12. Finish the edges of the apron top pieces with a double folded hem all the way around to meet at the facings. 13a. All the pieces of the apron are edge finished, and the rick rack is applied before assembly. 13b. Don t apply rick rack to the bottom edges of the back pieces. They won t show. 14. Sew the side pieces to the front apron. You might serge or zig zag the inside seam allowance. If you would like a finished seam use a flat felled seam. Place wrong sides together with the top fabric edge 5/8 in from the other edge. Sew the seam and trim threads. 15. Open the apron pieces with the right sides facing up. Press the seam flat and then repress with the wide seam allowance folded under to meet the narrow seam allowance. Start the flat felled seams to suit whether you are left or right handed to make the fells easier to manage. My right hand is more dexterous, so I place the fold to the right and feed with my right hand. 9. Stitch the button facing straight edges down. 11. Do a basting stitch along the scallops to draw the edges up a little to make it easier to turn them under. 13a. Apply the rick rack and then all the pieces of the apron top are edge finished. 10. Stitch the shoulder seams of the front yoke and the two back pieces. Zig zag or serge the seams and press. 12. Finish the neck and side edges of the apron top front and back pieces with a double folded hem all the way around to meet at the facings. 13b. Don t apply rick rack to the bottom edges of the back pieces.

4 16. Now you can easily top stitch the folded pressed edge, right sides up, the length of the seam and your flat felled seam is finished. 17. Clip the curved edges of the apron body arm holes a small amount before folding them under to help the hem to lie flat. 18. Hem the edges of the apron body and press the edges flat. 19. Add the rick rack, leaving the top front straight edge plain. It will be covered by the scalloped front yoke. Stretch the rick rack gently in the arm hole curves. 20a. If you need to seam the rick rack, heat seal the ends. The ends of the 100% polyester rick rack melt nicely if you want to heat seal them, being careful to not singe them. 20b. Overlap the rick rack ends, matching up the waves as you stitch the new piece on. 21. Baste stitch around curves to draw them up to make turning easier. Edge finish the pocket straight edges with a zig zag or serged stitch. 22. Fold the straight pocket edges over and fuse them down with a 3/8 strip of Stitch Witchery and the steam iron using a press cloth. 23. Hem the circular pocket edges. 24. Add the rick rack all the way around the pockets. 25. Stitch a small pleat in the end of the belt ties. 14. Sew the side pieces to the front apron. I used a flat felled seam. 16. Top stitch on the right side to finish the felled seam. 18. Hem the edges of the apron body and press the edges flat. 20a. The ends of the 100% polyester rick rack melt nicely if you want to heat seal them, being careful to not singe them. 15. Pressing makes flat felled seams simple and straight. 17. Clip the curved edges of the apron body arm holes a small amount before folding them under to help the hem to lie flat. 19. Add the rick rack, leaving the top front straight edge plain. 20b. To seam the rick rack, overlap the rick rack ends, matching up the waves as you stitch the new piece on.

5 26. Stitch the other ends together and zig zag or serge. Stitch the edge finish all the way around the belt ties, securing the pleats in the hem. 27. Turn the seamed ends, fold the ends to form a point and press them flat. There is no rick rack on the belt ties. 28. Pin the front yoke onto the topfront straight edge with enough underlap to cover the troughs and crests of the scallops. 29. Stitch the front to the scalloped edge in the same stitching lines used for the hem and to attach the rick rack. The two rows of stitching will make the seam secure. 21. Baste stitch around the pocket curves to draw them up to make turning easier. Edge finish the pocket straight edges with a zig zag or serged stitch. 22. Fold the straight pocket top edges over and fuse them down with a 3/8 strip of Stitch Witchery and the steam iron using a press cloth. 30. Use a narrow strip of Stitch Witchery to fuse the straight edge of the front piece to the inside of the front yoke. Place the Stitch Witchery between the Fusi Form interfacing and the right side of the front piece and steam using a press cloth. 23. Hem the circular pocket edges. 24. Add the rick rack all the way around the pockets. 31. Pin the back waist seams and the belt ties to the back waist seams, lining up the edges. Leave an overlap so there will be enough fabric to secure all three pieces together. 32. Stitch the belt ties and the back waist edges to the back corner of the apron body, lining up the edges of the rick rack. Top stitch around the corners of the belt ties to further secure them and keep them flat. 25. Stitch a small pleat in the end of the belt ties. 26. Sew the other end of the belt ties together, right sides together. Stitch the edge finish all the way around the belt ties, securing the pleats in the hem. 27. Zig zag or serge the end seam, turn to form a point, and press flat. 28. Pin the front yoke onto the top front straight edge with enough underlap to cover the troughs and crests of the scallops.

6 33. Noni hand stitched the original button hole with a blanket stitch. Now we would use a buttonhole stitch with a half knot at the top of each stitch if hand stitching the button hole. 34. Measure your button and mark the length and position of the button hole. Stitch your button hole using your favorite method. I free handed mine using the zig zag stitch on the sewing machine. 35. Cut the button hole opening very carefully from end to center starting at each end with the seam ripper. 36. Drop the feed dog. Position the button hole over the opposing facing, stick a pin through the button hole to find the ideal position for the button, and mark the spot with washable chalk or marker. 29. Stitch the front to the scalloped edge in the same stitching lines used for the hem and to attach the rick rack. 31. Pin the back waist seams and the belt ties to the back waist seams, lining up the edges. 30. Use a narrow strip of Stitch Witchery to fuse the straight edge of the front piece to the inside of the front yoke. 32. Stitch the belt ties and the back waist edges to the back corner of the apron body, lining up the edges of the rick rack. Top stitch around the corners of the belt ties to further secure them and keep them flat. 37. Place the button facing under the presser foot. This pink button came from grandma s button jar and matches perfectly. Set the stitch to zig zag at the width of the button s holes. Take one hand guided stitch in two of the button s holes to hold it in place without lowering the presser foot. Insert a large needle or T pin under the button, centered under the middle of the button to reserve space for the button shank, but not under the button s holes, and lower the presser foot. Hand guide the feed and carefully take about eight stitches to attach the button. 33. This is Noni s hand stitched button hole. 34. Mark the button hole position and create your button hole. 35. Cut the button hole opening very carefully from end to center starting at each end with the seam ripper. 36. Drop the feed dog. Position the button hole over the opposing facing, stick a pin through the button hole to find the ideal position for the button, and mark the spot with washable chalk or marker.

7 38. Lift the presser foot, and rotate the button to match up with the remaining button holes. Remove and replace the large needle to space the button shank. Take about eight more stitches to secure the remaining holes. Lift the foot and clip the threads at about Button the back to check the placement. 40. Unbutton and thread a needle with the trimmed threads and pull them to the back of the facing. 41. Insert the thread ends between the fabric layers, out the back, and trim them off. 42. Try your apron on and decide where to position the pockets. Reengage the feed dog. Top stitch around the edge and again ¼ in from the edge around the curves to attach the pockets. Now you are ready to bake, just like grandma did! 37. You might sew the button on by hand or using the machine. See the detailed instructions to learn how to use the sewing machine. 39. Button the apron to check the placement. 38. Rotate the button and finish sewing it on. The stitches will form an X. 40. Unbutton and thread a needle with the trimmed threads and pull them to the back of the facing. 41. Insert the thread ends between the fabric layers, out the back, and trim them off. Tips: 42. Try your apron on and decide where to position the pockets. Re engage the feed dog. Top stitch around the edge and again ¼ in from the edge around the curves to attach the pockets. If I were improving this pattern, I would cut two each of the front yoke and back pieces and fully face them along with the interfacing. This would eliminate the button facing piece. The rick rack would have to be sewn at the same time, which would be a little more challenging. The length of the front apron piece and back pieces might also be altered to fit a taller person. I did lower the pockets more than on the original design. Aprons will be washed repeatedly, so select a durable, woven fabric and sturdy trims.

8 About Fusi Form Lightweight HTC Retail s Fusi Form Lightweight, #1140 1, is a fusible, chemically bonded nonwoven interfacing that has a variety of applications when sewing light to medium weight knits, wovens, and loose weave wovens. It s also ideal for underlinings and soft tailoring. This versatile material offers crosswise stretch for soft, controlled shaping. Use it for blouses, dresses, skirts, suits, pocket flaps, button holes, table runners, pillows, wall hangings, and placemats. It s made of 90% polyester/10% rayon 30 gram fabric and comes in two colors: white and charcoal. It can be machine washed warm, tumbled dry, and should be removed promptly from the dryer. It comes in a 24 inch width on a 30 yard bolt. For more information, go to: retail.com/fusi form light Please like us on Facebook at: Retail/ We publish free projects, events, and news about interesting books, videos, products, and competitions every month. If you ve created a project with an HTC material, we d love to see it. When you post it to your Facebook page, please tag our Facebook page as well. If you have any questions, suggestions, or ideas you d like to see, please contact us: Phone: (678) Toll Free: (800) Fax: (678) info@htc retail.com