The Tee 30 59" ( cm) full bust

Transcription

1 .pdf patterns Cake s are sewable, wearable, remakeable patterns for intermediate to advanced sewists. The Tee is a great way for beginners learning to sew knits, too! Inside you ll f nd customizable Cake pattern pieces and clear written instructions for assembly. sewingcake.com/2224-tee o N 2224 patterns.pdf The Tee 30 59" ( full bust back /rif/ (in jazz and popular music) a short repeated phrase, frequently played over changing chords or used as a background to a solo improvisation. To make your own envelope at home, print this page and the next on cardstock. Cut along lines marked and crease along the gray lines. Apply glue to these aps and attach envelope front to envelope back. Allow to dry completely before storing your pattern pieces.

2 patterns N o 2224 The Tee Sizing/Fabric Requirements: 60" (152 wide fabric SIZE Full Bust (in) Full Bust ( yd m FULL BUST Due to the adjustable length options offered by The Tee's Grid Sizing, actual fabric requirements may vary. For the most accurate fabric estimate, use your Front Length measurement (more inside). For base sizes, add 7" (17.8 to your Front Length measurement to f nd the fabric requirement. For base sizes, add 5" (12.7 to your Front Length and double it for the fabric requirement. The Tee: The Tee is a simple knit top with breezy cap-length cut on sleeves and hip-hugging hem band. V-neck binding overlaps at CF, or choose the round neckline. Make one, two or more perfectly shaped micro-pockets. Stripe guide printed on pattern..pdf Fabric Choice: Suitable for a wide variety of lightto medium-weight knit and jersey fabrics with moderate stretch and good recovery. The simple cut allows distinctive prints and textures to sing! Notions: 1-2 yd/m ½"(12 mm) fusible stay tape ballpoint needles 1-2 yd/m fusible webbing small piece of card for template sewingcake.com/2224-tee 2014 by the Consulting Dressmaker

3 (127 Nº 2224 Blank Canvas Tee by the consulting dressmaker (124.5 (121.9 (119.4 (116.8 (114.3 (111.8 (109.2 (106.7 (104.1 (101.6 (99.1 (96.5 (94 (91.4 (88.9 (86.4 (83.8 (81.3 (78.7 (76.2 (73.7 (71.1 (68.6 (66 (63.5 (61 stretch / stripe hip circumference (35.6 ( ( ( ( ( (50.8 (53.9 (55.9 ( ( ( (66 26 CUTTING NOTES The Tee Nº2224 The Tee features breezy hemmed cut-on sleeves and hip-hugging hem band. V-neck binding overlaps at center front, or choose the round neckline. Make one, two or more micro-pockets. Use a light-weight fabric for a layering Tee, or medium-weight fabric for a standalone Tee. see sewingcake.com/2224-tee PATTERN KEY A B C D E Front Back Round Neck Binding V-neck Binding Micro Pocket for sewing tips and inspiration. cut 1 on fold cut 1 on fold cut 1 on fold cut 1 on fold cut 1 or more F Hem Band cut 1 on fold The versatile sizing of this pattern does not allow for simple creation of cutting layout diagrams, but it s not dif cult to cut The Tee well without them. Fold the fabric out in a double layer and arrange the pieces on top, beginning with the largest. Begin with A. To make best use of fabric, fold one edge of the fabric just enough to t A. Then cut B, then the other pieces, following the stripe/stretch and place on fold guides. Prewash all fabric before cutting in the same manner the nal garment will be laundered. MEASUREMENT & SIZING The Tee uses Cake's Grid Guide sizing. Choose your length and width based on your measurements to create pattern pieces size you. 1 FULL BUST Take measurement at fullest point on bust. This determines base size. 2 FRONT LENGTH Measure from shoulder at neck, down over the bust to desired hem position. 3 HIP Measure circumference of hip at hem position. Do not dent the esh when taking measurements. Record below for easy reference Full Bust Length Hip measurement pattern piece length A SEAM ALLOWANCE Use a 3 / 8 " (10 mm) seam allowance on The Tee. A B C D B E lower edge A B ; F When between sizes, round up for a relaxed t, round down for a closer t. Extra ease can be removed at the Mid-Construction Fit Check. MARK & CONNECT Use the measurements from the chart to complete pieces A B. First mark the dots, then draw a line to connect. Cut on the line or trace a copy. If more width or length is desired, add it by extending the grid as needed Some combinations of measurements may create a point below the underarm curve. Smooth this out by truing the line. See sewingcake.com/true STITCHES & TERMS length Knitstitch Flexible construction width stitch, often a preset on modern machines. Or use a long, narrow zig-zag stitch. Machine settings vary; test stitch and record settings. Finish Use a serger/overlocker or a triple-stitch zigzag on a regular machine to nish seam allowances for a durable seam. Topstitch 3.0 Slightly longer than a normal straight stitch. Holds seam allowances in place through wash and wear. Press Using the correct heat setting for the fabric type, press seams using an up-and-down motion to set the stitches. Do not drag iron over the seam center front - place on fold front length: shoulder at neck to hip/hem Page 1 of 2 Cake Patterns The Tee Nº The Consulting Dressmaker sewingcake.com Stephanie Cousins, Designer Susan Katz, Editor

4 PREP To streamline the construction process, it's helpful to take a few minutes to prep some pieces of the Tee. Pin the prepped fabric pieces to the paper pattern piece until they're needed. Press all binding pieces C D F in half lengthwise along foldlines as marked on the pattern, right side facing out. Apply fusible stay tape or other stabilizer to wrong side of shoulder seams on B. CONSTRUCTION "(10 mm) seam allowance With right sides together, stitch front A to back 1 B at one shoulder seam. Finish. Press seam toward back. For V-neck, stitch both shoulder seams. When stitching, be sure to keep the stabilized side facing up. This helps the fabric move smoothly and evenly under the presser foot while stitching. V-Neckline 2 Overlap the short ends of binding D at a right angle. Baste across short ends of overlapped bindings as shown, taking care not to twist. folded edges To attach binding, work rst on one side of the neckline, then the other. Start at center front (CF). Align raw edges of binding with the raw edge of the neckline to the right of the V. The basting stitches on the binding should be stacked on top of the CF fold line. Pin in place. Re-mark dot from CF onto binding for neatest result. Pin binding to neckline from CF to center back (CB), stretching binding gently to t. Stitch from dot to CB. fabric. Fold top edge down over the card at foldline. Press. Fold each angled corner at lower edge over the card and press. Then fold the sides and lower edge over the card and press. If desired, fuse strips of fusible webbing on pocket seam allowances now. Position Micro Pocket(s) on Tee front at markings. Fuse or baste in place. Pinning is too messy, as the knit will dent at the folded edge. Topstitch very close to edge, pivoting at pocket corners. Press. 4 Finish raw edges of sleeve openings. Press 1 / 2 " (12 mm) to wrong side. If desired, use fusible webbing to stabilize the hem and secure in place for stitching. Topstitch hem in place with a single or double needle. If desired, leave 1" (25 mm) of the hem unstitched at beginning and end. After stitching the side seams, stitch the rest of the hem. Round Neckline 2 Stitch neck binding C to the right side of the neck edge, stretching the binding gently around curves but not stretching the Tee's neckline. Trim off excess binding. Finish. Press seam toward body. Stitch second shoulder, taking care to match up binding edges. Finish. Trim seam near neck, if necessary. Press seam toward back. (Topstitching is recommended as it controls the seam allowance through wash and wear. If desired, topstitch next to shoulder seams through seam allowances.) V-neck Tip: Baste binding in place before stitching. If the V-tip puckers, it's easy to unpick. Only unpick the stitches around a problem area, not the whole seam. Once the V-tip looks at and tidy, use a knit construction stitch to secure the seam. Sometimes very small puckers will disappear when pressed. A small gap in the stitches at the V tip is ok; attempting to over-correct this gap can cause puckering. In order to align the raw edge for the second side of the V, clip the fabric to (but not through) the dot at CF. o Gently rotate overlapped binding 90, until the basted line crosses the CF fold. The clipped edge of fabric should align with the basted line when viewed from the wrong side. Now pin binding in place and stitch in the same way as the rst side. Take care not to stitch small puckers at the tip of the V. Finish and press binding seam toward body. Topstitch 1 / 8 " (3 mm) from seamline, through seam allowance, if desired. Micro Pocket(s) 3 card. For perfectly shaped pockets, cut out the Micro Pocket Template piece and glue to a piece of If a tag is desired, cut a piece of ribbon 1 1 / 4 " (30 mm) long and fold in half. Place on right side of pocket fabric at the lower corner, raw edges aligned. Baste in place 1 / 4 " (6 mm) from edge. Finish top edge of pocket. Lay pocket right side down on ironing board. Place template on wrong side of fabric. Fold top edge down over the card at foldline. Page 2 of 2 Cake Patterns The Tee Nº The Consulting Dressmaker sewingcake.com Press. Fold each angled corner at lower edge over the 5 Stitch side seams. Bring in seams as desired for a closer t. Finish. Press toward back. Mid-Construction Fit Check Now is a great time to stop and check the t of your Tee. Would you prefer a closer t? If so, put on The Tee inside out, pin out the extra at the side seams. Then take off The Tee and use chalk or fabric markers to mark the pinline. Remove pins and baste to check t before completing the seams. Mark The Tee pattern piece with any changes you made. Unfold prepared Hem Band F. Place short ends 6 right sides together and stitch across short end of Hem Band to make a circle shape. Press seam open, then re-fold Hem Band on original foldline with right sides of the fabric facing out. For easier handling, use a long machine stitch to baste the two raw edges together. Slip the Hem Band over the lower edge of The Tee, with the right side of The Tee facing the right side of the Hem Band. Align the seam on the Hem Band with one side seam. Gently stretch the Hem Band to t Tee. Stitch. Finish. Press seam toward the body.

5 Nº2224 by the consulting dressmaker Front 1 on fol ut 3/8" (10 mm seam allowance (127 (124.5 (121.9 (119.4 (116.8 (114.3 (111.8 (109.2 (106.7 (104.1 (101.6 (99.1 (96.5 (94 (91.4 (88.9 (86.4 (83.8 (81.3 (78.7 (76.2 (73.7 (71.1 (68.6 (66 (63.5 ( ( foldline direction of stripe/stretch 45 ( (127 (124.5 (121.9 (119.4 (116.8 (114.3 (111.8 (109.2 (106.7 (104.1 (101.6 (99.1 (96.5 (94 (91.4 (88.9 (86.4 (83.8 (81.3 (78.7 (76.2 (73.7 (71.1 (68.6 (66 (63.5 (61 50 ( ( ( ( ( /8" (10 mm) seam allowance ( cut 1 on fold ( B ( use same length as front (60.9 Back ( Nº2224 D ( cut 1 or more Round Neck Binding direction of stripe/stretch foldline cut 1 on fold C seam allowance mm) (10 3/8" Nº2224 The Tee page tiling overview N o 2224 The Tee Nº2224 The Tee 4" / 10 cm square place on fold Nº2224 The Tee Hem Band F cut 1 on fold 3/8" (10 mm) seam allowance alternate direction of stripe/stretch (only for fabrics with some vertical stretch) 6 A B join to Micro Pocket Template Nº s The Tee Glue this to a small piece of card and use as a pressing template for the Micro Pocket. This is the simplest way to create uniform pocket shapes, resulting in sharp edges even in lightweight or wiggly fabrics. 4 join to join to 2 C 2 D front length: shoulder at neck to hip/hem A d center front - place on fold c ) stripe 5 6 hip circumference 2 A B join to Nº2224 The Tee 1 B join to Micro Pocket Template 30s Glue this to a small piece of card and use as a pressing template for the Micro Pocket. Nº2224 The Tee by the consulting dressmaker /8" (.84 nished circumference /8" (37.25 nished circumference Micro Pocket 1 Micro Pocket 2 Choose base size by nearest full bust measurement. Round down for a close t, round up for a relaxed t /2" (39.3 nished circumference stretch / place on fold The Tee Micro Pocket Template 50s Glue this to a small piece of card and use as a pressing template for the Micro Pocket. This is the simplest way to create uniform pocket shapes, resulting in sharp edges even in lightweight or wiggly fabrics /2" (41.65 nished circumference /8" (44.2 nished circumference /8" (46.7 nished circumference foldline top edge The Tee direction of stripe/stretch Micro Pocket E Print at 100% (no scaling) for best accuracy. hip circumference 26 (66 25 ( ( ( ( ( ( ( ( ( ( ( ( Choose base size by nearest full bust measurement. Round down for a close t, round up for a relaxed t. center back - place on fold by the consulting dressmaker 45 Nº2224 The Tee C join to 1 A join to The Tee place on fold Nº2224 D 3/8" (10 mm) seam allowance cut 1 on fold V-Neck Binding foldline direction of stripe/stretch 2 A B join to Tested on A4 and US Letter home printers. Print first page of pattern and measure the gauge to check scale. 1/4 (6mm) is an acceptable margin of error.

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