Designs by Jude. Metro Coat. for 19 Mortimer. $12.95 US

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2 Metro Coat for 19 Mortimer $12.95 US 2013, All RIGHTS RESERVED. Personal use only. Not licensed for commercial use.

3 Metro For 19 Mortimer Mort Basic Instructions You will get the most professional results by following a few recommendations. Use a ¼ seam allowance unless noted otherwise on the pattern piece or instructions. This seam allowance is already included in the dimensions of the pattern. Press the garment as you work through each step. Press seams open where applicable. In un-lined garments, finish raw edges with an over-lock or zigzag stitch. Note that RST = Right Sides Together and WST = Wrong Sides Together. Fabric and Notions Coat: Lining: Notions: Suitings. Batiste and china Silk. 3 ct. buckles, 3 ct. 4/0 snap sets, light weight fusible interfacing for belt. Coat 1. Apply lightweight fusible interfacing to wrong side of belt. WST, fold top and bottom raw edges over approx. ¼ using fold lines on pattern as a guide. From right side of belt, top stitch approx. 1/16 from finished edges. Cut belt in half. For one half of belt, WST, fold side raw edge under creating a point. Using waxed thread and needle, secure folds into place. 2. With wrong side of belt facing right side of coat front, position belt over belt line as indicated on pattern. Stay stitch side raw edge of belt to side raw edge of coat front insuring pointed edge of belt is pointing towards the center. 3. RST, matching notches, sew coat side front to coat front. Clip curves and press seam allowance open. Repeat for lining. 4. RST, matching notches, sew coat backs together along back raw edge. Clip curves and press seam allowance open. Repeat for lining. 5. RST, matching notches, sew raw shoulder edge of coat front to raw shoulder edge of coat back. Press seam allowance open. 6. Ease sleeve cap between dots. RST, matching notches sew sleeve cap to coat armhole. Clip curves just above under arm and press sleeve cap as needed with seam allowance towards sleeve. Repeat for lining. 7. RST, matching notches sew coat back and sleeve back coat front and sleeve front, along side raw edges. Clip under arm and curves and press seam allowances open. Repeat for lining. 8. RST, sew collar pieces together, leaving bottom raw edge un-sewn. Trim seam allowance to 1/8 and turn collar right side out. Stay stitch bottom raw edge of collar and pull threads slightly to ease. Just a barely visible amount of easing is needed. 9. RST, stay stitch raw edge of collar to raw edge of coat neckline, centering collar between notches. 10. RST together, matching seams. Sew coat lining to coat along neckline, front edges and bottom raw edges. Leave a small opening in coat back between notches so coat can be turned right side out. Clip corners and curves as needed. Trim seam allowance at collar to 1/8. Turn coat right side out. Using a point turner, turn corners to a sharp point and press all finished edges, tucking back opening seam allowance between coat and lining. Hard press. Using waxed thread and needle, secure opening closed from lining side ensuring your stitches do not show from the right side of coat. 11. Turn sleeve and sleeve lining wrong side out. WST, fold bottom raw hem edge of sleeve and sleeve lining under approx. 1/2. Dropping folded lining edge just below folded edge of sleeve, secure folded edge of lining to folded edge of sleeve using waxed thread and needle. 12. Turn coat and sleeves right side out. Fit coat to doll. Note placement for 3 snap sets along front center of coat and mark. When snaps are secured, the front vents of coat should just butt against each other. Sew snaps sets into place ensuring snaps and stitches are not visible from right side of coat. 13. Fit coat to doll again and note placement for D ring. D ring should be centered evenly to front of coat. WST fold raw edge of belt around D ring trimming the belt so that no more than ½ of belt is folded over D ring. Using waxed thread and needle, sew raw edge of fold into place. 14. Thread pointed edge of belt through D ring.

4 Metro for 19 Mortimer Fold Line Stitch Line Grain Line Notch Dot Snap Seam allowance of 1/4 is already included in the dimensions of the pattern Piece Sleeve Lining Piece Coat Front A Piece Coat Front A Lining 2013, All RIGHTS RESERVED. Personal use only. Not licensed for commercial use. belt belt belt

5 Piece Coat Back C Lining Piece Coat Side Front B Lining 2013, All RIGHTS RESERVED. Personal use only. Not licensed for commercial use.

6 Metro for 19 Mortimer Piece Belt Cut 3 Piece Coat Back C Piece Coat Side Front B slightly ease Piece Collar 2013, All RIGHTS RESERVED. Personal use only. Not licensed for commercial use.