A few notes about PDF patterns from Designs by Jude...

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1 A few notes about PDF patterns from Designs by Jude.... This PDF pattern requires legal size paper (8.5 x 14 ) or A4 size paper (8.27 x 11.69, 210mm x 297mm). It will not print on standard letter. Patterns containing larger pieces will need to be taped together before cutting out the fabric. Be advised that this document needs to be printed to it s original scale. Please ensure that the printing options below are not selected. Do Not: Rotate and Center, Fit to Page, Reduce to Fit or adjust the scale of this document. Refer to the scale marker below to ensure that this copy is printed at the correct scale. This PDF pattern is not licensed for commercial use and may not be shared, duplicated or distributed Designs by Jude, All RIGHTS RESERVED. Personal use only. Not licensed for commercial use. 1 or 25.4mm 1 or 25.4mm

2 Midnight in the Garden Ellowyne designed by Gary Fletcher 2007, All RIGHTS RESERVED. Personal use only. Not licensed for commercial use us

3 Midnight in the Garden for Ellowyne Fabrics and Notions Bodice: satins, silks, taffeta, lightweight denims and cottons. Crinoline: heavily starched broadcloth. Gathers: satins, silks, taffeta. Lining: lightweight cottons, batiste, china silk. Notions: 1ct. 12 doll zipper cut to size, 2ct. 4/0 snap sets, 3/8 1/5 pendant for bust, cording or ribbon for crinoline waist, optional wire for crinoline, optional contrasting thread for top stitching. General Instructions Layout and cut all pattern pieces, following the grain line indicated on pattern. Seam allowance is ¼ and is already included within the dimensions of the pattern. Unless noted otherwise, you will use this seam allowance throughout construction. Waxed thread is recommended for hand sewing RST = Right Sides Together, WST = Wrong Sides Together Bodice 1. RST, matching notches sew bodice side front to bodice front, clip curves and press seam allowance toward center of bodice. Repeat for Lining. 2. RST, matching notches sew bodice side back to bodice side front. Clip curves and press seam allowance open. Repeat for lining. 3. RST, matching notches sew bodice back to bodice side back. Clip curves and press seam allowance open. WST, fold along center back fold line as indicated on pattern. Hard press and un-fold. Repeat for lining. 4. WST, fold bottom raw edge of bodice lining under approx. ½ and hard press. 5. RST, matching seams, sew top raw edge of lining to top raw edge of bodice. Carefully trim seam allowance to 1/8. Fold lining over bodice so that the wrong side of the lining and the wrong side of the bodice are facing each other. Smooth top finished edge of bodice and press. Place bodice assembly aside for now. Collar 6. RST, sew collars together along top raw edge, leaving bottom raw edge unsewn. Trim seam allowance to 1/8. Turn collar right side out, smooth top finished edge and press. Stay stitch bottom raw edge of collar. Gather bottom raw edge of collar to a length of approx. 6 ½. 7. RST, sew bottom gathered edge of collar to top raw edge of collar band. WST, fold bottom raw edge of collar band under approx. ¼ and hard press. Fold collar band over seam and press ensuring that the seams are cased between collar band and the width of the collar band is consistent. From right side of collar, stitching in the ditch directly through the seam line where the collar band and collar meet, securing underside of collar band into place. Excess collar band may need to be trimmed away. Place collar assembly aside for now.

4 Skirt 8. Using markings on skirt pattern as a guide, transfer lines to fabric. These lines will be used as guides for placing and sewing the gathers to the skirt. RST, sew center back of skirt together, stopping at dot. Press seam allowance open. 9. Cut strips of fabric 3 ¾ wide. It will take several strips of fabric to create the 6 tiers of gathered layers you will need to create the skirt. Once the strips are cut, sew strips together along side raw edge with RST. Press seam allowance open. Approx. 7 yds. of one continuous strip will be needed depending on how full you create the gathers. From right side of strip, overlock or zig zag stitch the top raw edge. Using a rolled hem foot for your sewing machine or a narrow rolled hem setting on your serger, finish the bottom raw edge of the strip. If you do not have these available to you, you can fold the bottom raw edge of the strip under approx. ¼ and hem approx. 1/16 from folded edge. 10. Although you can gather the top edge of the strip by hand or with your sewing machine, it is highly recommended that you use a gathering or ruffling foot attachment to create the gathers. This attachment will produce consistent gathers and provides very professional results. Contact your sewing machine manufacturer or dealer. You need to know if your machine has a short or long shank and if it is slanted or straight. The majority of newer machines on the market today have a short straight shank. Once you have gathered the entire length of the strip you are ready to begin sewing them to the skirt. 11. WST, fold side raw edge of one end of gathered strip over, approx. ½. RST sew top gathered edge of gathered strip to bottom raw edge of skirt. For ease in construction it is recommended that you sew the strip to the skirt and then cut off the excess as you reach that point. This eliminates much of the guess work. When you reach the end, cut approx. 1 more than you need, fold the side raw edge under approx. ½ and overlap where you began, except for where gathers meet zipper opening. 12. With wrong side of gathered strip facing right side of skirt, sew top gathered edge of strip to skirt. The line on the skirt should be directly above the gathered edge of the strip. Sew strip around skirt in the same manner as you attached the gathered strip to the hem, by over lapping where you began. 13. Sew remaining gathered strip to skirt, carefully following lines on pattern. When you reach the top raw edge of the skirt, sew one final layer to that raw edge. 14. You should have a total of 6 tiers of gathered ruffles applied to the skirt. Gather top raw edge of skirt to a length of approx. 7 using waxed thread and needle. Carefully space gathers evenly adjusting the length to fit the bottom raw edge of the bodice. 15. RST, matching center front of skirt to center front of bodice, pin top gathered edge of skirt to bottom raw edge of bodice. Sew skirt to bodice using a slightly larger seam allowance of 5/16. Press seam allowance toward bodice. 16. This dress uses a back zipper closure and because of the ruffles and small area you are working it, the zipper should be set by hand using waxed thread and needle. You may adapt the closure for snaps if you like. The top two tiers of the ruffles will need to be wrapped around the zipper opening when you sew the zipper in place. The second tier of ruffles will need to be clipped where the bottom of the zipper begins. Using waxed thread and a hand needle, set the zipper using a single strand of thread and a prick stitch. The stitches should be approx. 1/8 from the center of the zipper teeth. The top edge of the zipper tape should extend approx. ½ into the lining. 17. Turn dress wrong side out. Using waxed thread and needle, secure bodice lining along zipper opening and bottom folded edge. Your stitches should not

5 interfere with zipper operation. The bottom folded edge of the bodice lining should be secured in such a way that the seam allowance where the skirt and bodice meet, are encased between the lining and the dress. Place dress aside for now. Crinoline 18. Transfer lines on skirt pattern to fabric. Cut bottom of crinoline off along the bottom line. You will be cutting away approx. 3 of the bottom edge of the crinoline. RST, sew center backs of crinoline together stopping at dot. 19. RST, sew gathered edge of ruffle strip to the bottom raw edge of crinoline. You will be attaching the gathered strips in the same manner you used in steps 11 and 12 however you are only sewing 3 tiers of gathers. If you do not have enough remaining gathered strips, you can use heavily starched cotton strips or purchased ruffles in the same width. 20. WST, fold to raw edge of crinoline under approx. ½ and hard press. You may need to clip the center front approx. ¼ and get the fold to lay right. From the right side of the crinoline, secure top folded edge in place by top stitching approx. 3/8 from folded edge. This will create the casing for the crinoline waistline. 21. Thread cording or ribbon through the waist casing. Fit crinoline to doll with waistline of crinoline just below the doll s waistline. Cinch up waist and tie ribbon in a bow. Trim away excess ribbon. Remove crinoline. 22. Fit dress to the doll. Using dots on bodice front as a guide, tightly gather between dots. This will create the shape you need for the bust. Secure a pendant or chain of rhinestones to conceal the gathering stitches. Wrap the collar around the doll s neck and mark placement for two snap sets. One half of each snap set will be secured to the bodice lining next to the side seams and approx. ½ from the top edge. The remaining snap halves will be attached to the ends of the collar. The markings on the pattern pieces should be used as guides. Secure snaps in place using waxed thread and needle. Attached collar to dress. 23. Fit crinoline to doll. The length has been adjusted to allow for the full shape of the crinoline and the doll stand. The hem of the dress should just brush the surface. If the crinoline is not full enough, optionally you can secure florist or brass wiring to the hem using a cording foot and zig zag stitch.

6 Fold Line Stitch Line Grain Line Notch Dot Snap Seam allowance of 1/4 is already included in the dimensions of the pattern E A B D Piece Bodice Side Front Cut 2 Cut 2 Lining C gather bottom raw edge to a width approx. 8 in length. Piece Collar Cut 2 Do not cut fabric until all skirt pattern pieces h a v e b e e n assembled by Piece Bodice Side Back Cut 2 Cut 2 Lining Midnight in the Garden Style Midnight in the Garden Bodice Front 1 1 Lining Style Piece Cut Cut Piece Bodice Back Cut 2 Cut 2 Lining 2007, All RIGHTS RESERVED. Personal use only. Not licensed for commercial use.

7 C Piece Collar Band Cut 1on Bias 2007, All RIGHTS RESERVED. Personal use only. Not licensed for commercial use.

8 Fold Here A Piece Skirt Cut 1 on Fold Cut 1 on Fold for Crinoline D 2007, All RIGHTS RESERVED. Personal use only. Not licensed for commercial use.

9 Fold Here E B 2007, All RIGHTS RESERVED. Personal use only. Not licensed for commercial use.