A few notes about PDF patterns from Designs by Jude...

Transcription

1 A few notes about PDF patterns from Designs by Jude.... This PDF pattern requires legal size paper (8.5 x 14 ) or A4 size paper (8.27 x 11.69, 210mm x 297mm). It will not print on standard letter. Patterns containing larger pieces will need to be taped together before cutting out the fabric. Be advised that this document needs to be printed to it s original scale. Please ensure that the printing options below are not selected. Do Not: Rotate and Center, Fit to Page, Reduce to Fit or adjust the scale of this document. Refer to the scale marker below to ensure that this copy is printed at the correct scale. This PDF pattern is not licensed for commercial use and may not be shared, duplicated or distributed Designs by Jude, All RIGHTS RESERVED. Personal use only. Not licensed for commercial use. 1 or 25.4mm 1 or 25.4mm

2 designed by Gary Fletcher for Tyler $12.95us

3 for Tyler Notions and Fabric Fabric: Contrast: Lining: Notions: Brocades, cottons and calicos, satins, silk dupioni. solid colored satins, silks. China silk, broad cloth, voile, batiste. Matching thread, matching 7 Tiny Zipper General ting and Marking Directions 1. Lay out all pieces following grain lines on pattern. Grain lines are marked with a straight line with an arrow on each end. the number indicated on the pattern. 2. notches no deeper than 1/8 or use disappearing marker. Seam allowances are ¼ unless otherwise noted on the pattern or in the instructions. 3. When interfacing, use a fusible in the lightest possible weight and press to the fabric before marking and cutting out the pieces. 4. Surging seams creates bulk and is not recommended unless the garment is unlined. Sewing Directions 1. Note: The skirt and skirt lining and skirt yoke and skirt yoke lining do not have the same dimensions. The yoke and skirt seams for the lining are ½ below the dress shell as not to create bulk in the waste and zipper seam. 2. With right sides together sew the 3 skirt pieces together at the sides. This should give you a half circle. With right sides together sew skirt back to each end of half circle. Press seams open and repeat this step for skirt lining. 3. Using a long machine stitch or running hand stitch run two rows of stitches 1/16 apart starting 1/8 from the top raw edge of the skirt. Pull a thread from each end and evenly gather top raw edge of skirt to approx. 8. Repeat for skirt lining. 4. With right sides together, match center of skirt and center of yoke. Pin yoke to skirt evenly placing skirt seams and matching the sides of skirt to sides of yoke and sew. Press seam toward yoke. Repeat for dress and yoke lining. 5. Make a small clip in the top center of front bodice. With wrong sides together fold top raw edge of bodice front over ¼ and press. With wrong sides together fold top raw edge of bodice back over ¼ and press. These edges will remain folded and pressed during the entire bodice assembly process. Repeat for bodice front lining and bodice back lining. 6. With right sides together matching notches sew bodice front sides to bodice front. With right sides together matching notches sew bodice back sides to bodice back. With right sides together sew bodice backs to bodice fronts at the shoulders. Press shoulder seams open and press the seams where bodice front and bodice back meet with bodice sides, away from the center of the of bodice front and bodice back. With wrong sides together fold raw edge of sleeve between notches under ¼ and press, then un-fold. With right sides together sew raw edges of bodice front sides to bodice back sides. Turn bodice wrong side out and press remaining seams open. Re-fold sleeve raw edge. Repeat step 6 for bodice lining. 7. With right sides together match bodice center notch to center notch of top raw edge of yoke, pin in place. Match sides of bodice to sides of yoke and pin in place. You made need to slightly ease the yoke or bodice but there should be no gathers. Sew bodice to yoke using a ¼ seam allowance. Repeat this step for bodice lining and yoke lining. Note that the yoke lining is ½ wider than the dress yoke. 8. With right sides together over lay dress lining onto dress. Match back raw edges of dress and lining. On top edge of bodice back unfold then sew a ½ section using a ¼ seam allowance.

4 15. With right sides together fold long edges of bow tails over and sew ¼ from raw edge, leaving the space between the notches open. With right sides together center this seam over centerfold of bow tails and press seam and opening, open. With right sides together sew raw edges of bow tails using a ¼ seam allowance. Turn bow tails right side out through opening. Press flat and press hand stitch opening closed. 16. Gather center of bow tails to approx 3/8 and tie. Note illustration below. 9. With wrong sides together fold long edges of waist overlays under, ¼ and press. Gather slanted edge of waist overlays to 1. With right sides together sew slanted raw edge of overlays to back raw edge of dress yoke. 10. With right sides together sew raw edges of skirt back together from the bottom raw edge to the dot using a 3/8 seam allowance. This extra seam allowance is required for the zipper placement. Repeat for dress lining and press seams open along with pressing zipper opening down 3/8 as well. 11. Insert zipper using a machine stitch or hand prick stitch. A hand prick stitch is a couture method of setting a zipper and will give you more control over zipper placement. The zipper stops should match evenly with the seam where the bodice back and bodice back lining meet. Once the zipper is set, pull raw edges of skirt hem through dress and skirt zipper opening, with right sides together match seams and sew using a ¼ seam allowance. Carefully turn dress right side out and press dress hem. This creates a finished hem. 12. Turn dress wrong side out, place zipper section of lining over zipper section of dress, space the folded edge of lining offset from the zipper teeth and tack both sides of lining down over the zipper tape, using a hand stitch. 13. Press lining over zipper section smooth. Finish the folded hems of the sleeves and top edge of bodice and around shoulders by placing folded edge of lining offset 1/16 from folded edge of dress and tack with a hand stitch. Again press dress lining smooth. 14. Turn dress right side out 17. With wrong sides together fold short raw edges of bow over ¼ and press. With right sides together bring folded edges of bow to the center of bow and sew raw edges of the sides together. Note illustration below. 18. Turn bow right side out and press. Hand stitch folded edges closed. Gather center of bow with needle and thread to create the bow. a scrap of the bow fabric you used into a strip ¾ wide and approx 2 long. Fold edges of the strip, wrong sides together, under ¼ and press. This strip is used for the center of the bow. With wrong side of strip wrapped around right side of center bow. Sew strip to back of bow and trim excess strip away. 19. Place bow over bow tails and stitch into place arranging the bow and tails to your taste. 20. Fit the dress to your doll. Bring the left over-lay around the yoke. The overlay is cut on the bias and should wrap nicely around the yoke and hips. Mark where the overlay meets the left hip add ¼ and trim excess overly away. Gather this end to approx. 3/8 wide and tack down to dress shell over left hip. Using needle and thread tack only to dress shell being careful not to go through to the lining. Before tacking this end down you should arrange the overly and folds so that it

5 covers the yoke to your satisfaction. This method of finishing and trimming a garment is a couture method and adds a distinguished look to your garment. Repeat this step for the right overlay, which will be a bit longer because it is wrapping farther around the hip to meet the other overlay. Butt the end of the right overly up to the end of the left overlay and tack it down. Position bow and bow tails assembly over this area and secure in place with needle and thread, being careful to conceal the stitches used to attach the bow and tails. The bow should cover the area where the overlays meet and conceal any stitching and raw edges. 21. Fit dress to doll and give a final pressing with a clothes steamer.

6 Bodice Back Size 2 2 Lining Tyler Wentworth Bodice Front 1 Size 1 Lining Tyler Wentworth Bodice Side Front Size 2 2 Lining Tyler Wentworth for Tyler Size Tyler Wentworth Yoke Lining 1 Lining Yoke 1 Bodice Side Back Size Tyler Wentworth Size 2 2 Lining Tyler Wentworth

7 Yoke overlay 2 on bias size 16 FD press under with wrong sides together 1/4 Bow Tails 1 size 16 FD press under wrong sides together 1/4 Bow 1 size 16 FD press under wrong sides together 1/4 press under with wrong sides together 1/4

8 skirt 3 on Fold size 16 fd Fold Here

9 3/8 seam allowance skirt back 2 size 16 fd

10 3/8 seam allowance a Skirt Back Lining 2 Lining size 16 FD

11 Skirt Lining 3 on Fold size 16 FD Fold Here