FACINGS. Facings are sections of material that finish the edge without protruding; a binding extends beyond the edge.

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1 Facings defined FACINGS Facings are sections of material that finish the edge without protruding; a binding extends beyond the edge. A facing can be made either wide or narrow and can be made on the wrong side as a finish or on the right side as a trimming. All facings wider than one inch, finished, should be termed a shaped facing and should be made as such. Shaped, or fitted facings A shaped or fitted facing should be cut to fit the edge that is to be faced and should be cut on the exact thread of the material as the section that is being faced. This means that the lengthwise thread of the outer section must be matched perfectly with a lengthwise thread of the facing. Be careful not to confuse the crosswise thread with the lengthwise thread when cutting a facing, as the two will

2 shrink differently and the garment will draw if the facing is not cut perfectly. It is advisable to piece the facing to be able to secure the correct thread of material. Fitted facings for hems, revers, neck lines, etc., should be carefully cut to prevent them from drawing. If the crosswise thread of the goods is to be used as a trimming, such as in striped or plaids, it is advisable to shrink the material before making. Piecing facings When facings are pieced, be sure to make all joining seams on the lengthwise thread of material never on the bias. The seam should be matched perfectly, pressed open and then tested to be sure that it is the correct shape before it is applied. Narrow facings can be made on a true bias.

3 Fitted facings Fitted facings such as collars, cuffs, revers, lined sections of peplums, drapes, flares and circular sections should be cut from the same pattern as the outer section, carefully watching the lengthwise thread. Study the instructions given in these lessons for making collars and cuffs, as the facing is treated after it is cut and before it is applied. Edge seams pressed open The inner edge seam or joining seams of all facings should be pressed open before turning back. This will apply not only to straight edges but also all circular edges. If the seam is so joined that it will not lie flat when opened, then press back one side of the seam that has just been stitched, turn over and press back the other side. Outer corners and curves All outer corners must be clipped off before turning the seam and all right angles or less than right angles should be curved at the point rather than stitched to a true point so as to prevent the point from bulging. Outer curves should be clipped before turning.

4 Inner points and curves All inner curves, such as neck lines, should be clipped every inch before turning. All inner points must also be clipped to within two threads of the sewing line to be able to turn a perfect point. Trim facings All facings that are to be invisible, such as reverse facings, collars, etc., should be cut exactly like the outer section and then trimmed off one-eighth inch on the outer edges, which will be the joining seams when the smaller edge is held to match the larger edge. It will make the seam

5 roll under and not protrude when finished, and the seam will be invisible. Edge finish All outer edges of under facings should be machine stitched with one turning before the facing is applied. Fit curves If the facing is narrow and cut on a true bias, stretch the outer edge, as it is stitched in order to fit the curve of the neck or any similar curved section. If the facing is for the lower edge of a skirt and on the bias, hold in the outer edge

6 when turning under so as to fit the inner curve of the hem. If the machine stitching is too tight it can be stretched, easing out the bobbin thread, if too loose, the bobbin thread can be drawn up. Press to shape before the final finish. Baste to place After the joining edge is pressed open and the outer edge is machine stitched, baste the facing back along the finished edge and press. Basting board Slide the basting board into the neck or front of the dress on the inside with the dress wrong side out. Flatten the facing against the dress and baste to place, basting a quarter of an inch back from the finished inside edge. Be sure that the facing lies flat and baste flat.

7 The facing is now ready to be attached to the garment. Remove the basting board. Pick up the garment along the basting and hold the facing to the back with an eighth of an inch protruding at the top. The dress is then slip stitched to the facing back from the edge, sliding the needle into a fold of the stitched facing and then catching two threads of the dress. The stitches can be made far apart but they must be loose. The basting line should not be drawn tight, it is very loose. Back stitch every three inches. This loose basting will prevent the stitches from drawing and the back stitch will hold the loose stitches in place. (See directions for tailored hem.) Tacked Some dressmakers prefer to catch the facing to the garment with several tackings. This is optional with the worker. Practice each problem in crepe paper. Questions Facings What is the difference between facing and binding?

8 If it is wider than one inch, what is it termed? How is a facing cut? What is the important requirement? Why? If crosswise thread is used, what is to be done? When it is pieced what should be done? Why should it be tested? What is to be done before applying a facing? How is facing for collars and revers cut? What is to be done to the edge? What is to be done to outer curves and corners? What is to be done to inner curves and corners? How are curves stitched on facings? What is to be done to facings of collars and cuffs? How are the edges joined? How are edges of curves pressed open? How can narrow facings be cut? How is a true bias shaped to fit the outer edge? How is facing basted back to dress? How is the facing attached to the garment?