Creative Living with Sheryl Borden 6100 Series. Sewing & Fashion - Section I

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1 Creative Living with Sheryl Borden 6100 Series Sewing & Fashion - Section I

2 Table of Contents Sewing & Fashion It s Hip to Be Square...I-3 Whirlin Dervish...I-3 Crayon Rolls...I-4 An Easy Way to Draw a Continuous Line Compass Pattern...I-5 Projects from Fairfield...I-6 Mastering the Flat Fell Seam...II-10 Mastering the Slot Zipper...II-11 Punch & Machine Embroidery...II-12 Making Perfect Pleats & Welt Cords...II-13 Crocheted Laces & Edgings by Machine...II-14 The Importance of Quilt Labels...II-15 Guests...II-16 Due to the size of this section, it has been separated into two sections in order for it to be downloaded more quickly. For instance, It s Hip to Be Square is in Section I on page 3, whereas Mastering the Flat Fell Seam is in Section II on page 10. 2

3 It s s Hip to Be Squ quar are Start with squares. Almost any size of squares works for these techniques. Let s use 8" squares for our ex-amples. Obviously, if you use a different size of square, the other measurements will change, too. Use one 8" square of light and one 8" square of dark to make two half-square triangle blocks. Press the seam allowances toward the dark. Square up the half-square triangle blocks to 7 1/2. Make sure the seam line goes perfectly through the two opposite corners. Cut the blocks vertically and horizontally, into sections that are 2 1/2 square. See figure 1. When you have cut both half-square triangle blocks into 2 1/2 square pieces, you will have a total of six half-square triangle units, six light squares, and six dark squares. Use the squares and halfsquare triangle units to make countless blocks, borders, and quilts. One idea is shown in figure 2. Do you like the technique? Check out the amazing things you can do with it in my book, It s Hip to be Square. fig. 1 Cut each half-square triangle block into 2 1/2 square pieces. fig. 2 You can make one of each of the blocks shown from a pair of squares, one light square and one dark square. Whirlin Dervish An AnglePlay Quilt Finished size 34 x 34 This delightful little quilt will get you excited about incorporating the long triangle into your pieced quilts! You can see how much motion the long triangle adds to pieced blocks. You will get experience working with a light-todark progression of colors and values, to add depth to your quilt design. There is only one block in the center of this quilt, and one corner unit, each of which are made four times. Fabrics: five shades of oranges and reds, light orange to dark burgundy red; three greens: light, medium, dark; or, use your own fabric choices. You can place a piece of tracing paper over the quilt line drawing here and try your own motifs and fabric choices. To download the free pattern, go to: WhirlinDervish.pdf COURTESY: Margaret Miller Miller Quilts Remember, you can use different sizes of squares to start. In addition, you can cut the half-square triangle blocks into fewer or more sections. Experiment and have fun! Debbie Caffrey Debbie s Creative Moments, Inc. 3

4 Crayon Rolls For this project you will need: Outside: 5" x 18" piece of fabric Inside: 5" x 18" piece of fabric Interfacing (fusible) or Vinyl (fusible): 5" x 18" Ribbon: 20" - 30" Pocket: 6" x 18" piece of fabric 1 package of 16 count crayons Fuse the Interfacing onto the back of the Inside following the manufacturers instructions or fuse the Vinyl onto the front of the Inside following the manufacturers instructions. Fold ribbon in half and pin to one side. Press the Pocket in half lengthwise, wrong sides together. Place the folded Pocket onto the right side of the Inside. Line up the bottom edges of the Pocket and the Inside & baste. Pin the Outside piece to the Inside/Pocket piece, right sides together and sew around the edges with 1/4" 3/8" seam leaving about 3" on top for turning. Trim corners, turn, press and top stitch. Sew the lines one inch apart across the Pocket. (This spacing may change if you are using colored pencils or markers.) Start at the top of the Pocket and back-stitch to reinforce. Trim to size. 4 COURTESY: Nancy Lovett Sewing Instructor

5 5 COURTESY: Norah McMeeking Author & Quilter

6 Bumper Pads Pattern by: Marsha Evans Moore Materials/Supplies Needed: Fairfield NU-Foam six precut pieces 10" x 26" x 1" Fairfield Low-loft Batting crib size 45" x 60" Thread to match fabrics Fabrics Needed: Use fabric with 40" usable width 1 5/8 yards main print for front of bumper pads 1 5/8 yards coordinating print for reverse side 1 yard for stripe and ties 3/8 yard white-on-white print 3/4 yard solid color fabric for triangles 1/8 yard of six different small print, textured or solid fabrics Cutting Instructions: 1) From main print, cut six 27 1/2" x 6" pieces and six 27 1/2" x 2 1/4" pieces. 2) From coordinating print, cut six 27 1/2" x 11 1/2" pieces. 3) For ties, cut twenty-four 2" by 20" pieces. Cut six 27 1/2" x 1 1/4" for stripes. 4) From solid color fabric, cut twenty seven 4 1/4" squares. Cut in half diagonally twice to make four triangles from each square. Cut twelve 2 1/2" squares. Cut these in half diagonally once to make two triangles from each square. 5) Cut six 1 1/2" x 40" crosswise strips of white-on-white 6) Cut one 1 1/2" x 40" crosswise strip from each small print, textured or solid fabric. 7) Cut six 11 1/2" x 27 1/2" pieces of batting Piecing Instructions: NOTE: These one inch square four-patches have a finished measurement of about 2 3/4" on the diagonal when using a 1/4" seam allowance. When the entire 10 pieces are sewn together it will be too long. Use 6 Makes a set of six Bumper Pads the slightly wider seam allowance when stitching the patchwork section of the bumper pad. Use the sewing foot on your machine which is slightly wider than a 1/4" piecing foot. Measure your patchwork as you join it so that each four-patch is about 2 5/8" on the diagonal. Stitch all seams right sides together. Bumper Pad Fronts: 1. Stitch each different print crosswise strip to a white crosswise strip along one long edge using a short stitch length. Press seam allowance toward print fabric. Cut twenty 1 1/2" pieces from each strip. 2. Stitch pieces together in pairs matching seams at center. cut 3. Arrange 10 four-patches for each bumper, alternating colors. 4. Following piecing diagram, stitch triangles to four patches. Then stitch each triangle/four-patch unit together to make a strip. If necessary trim seam allowance of long upper and lower edges to 1/4. The strip should be 26 1/2-27 long. 5. Center all pieces along edges of patchwork and stitch together as follows. Stitch stripe to lower edge of patchwork. Stitch 2 1/4 main print pieces to upper edge of patchwork. Stitch 6 piece to lower edge of stripe.

7 6. Place pieced bumper pad fronts on quilt batting. Quilt along seamlines of patchwork or as desired. Trim batting even with edge of fabric if necessary. Ties: 1. Press 1/4" to wrong side on all edges of tie pieces. Fold in half lengthwise and edge stitch. Make twenty four ties. 2. Fold ties in half. Pin folded ends of ties to the right side of the bumper pad fronts 1/2" from upper and lower edge, as shown. Baste scant 1/2" from fold. Pin loose ends of ties down so they do not get caught in stitching. Assembling Instructions: 1. Right sides together, pin bumper pad fronts to backs with ties in between. Stitch each cover leaving a long opening on the lower edge. Turn right side out. 2. Slide Nu-Foam into each cover. Stitch bottom edges closed. Stars in the Night Pattern by: Marsha Evans Moore Finished Size: 35" x 44" Materials/Supplies Needed: 36" x 45" Fusi- Boo batting by Fairfield 2 yards paper backed fusible webbing Thread to match fabrics Gold and light blue metallic thread Invisible machine quilting thread Paper for patterns Pencil and ruler Sewing machine Iron Scissors, pins and chalk marking pencil 7 Fabrics Needed (pre-wash all fabrics): Dark blue star print /4 yd. Medium blue print... 3/4 yd. Light blue textured print... 1/4 yd. Yellow stripe (incl. binding)... 1/2 yd. Dark orange print... 1/4 yd. Light orange print... 1/4 yd. Violet batik... 1/4 yd. Green dot print... 1/8 yd. Pink textured print... 1/8 yd. Backing fabric /4 yd. Cutting Instructions: Background squares and borders 1. From medium blue: cut four 12 1/2" squares and two 12" x 8" rectangles. 2. To make pattern for swirl, draw a 12" square. Measure down 4" from the top along the right side. Measure up 4" from the bottom along the left side. Draw an S curved line connecting the upper right corner to the mark on the left side. Draw an S curved line connecting the mark on the right side with the lower left corner. Add 1/4" seam allowance to the straight edges. 3. From dark blue: cut two side borders 5" x 45", top and bottom borders 26 1/4" x 5" and 4 swirls. 4. Place the swirl pattern on one 12" x 8" block aligning the bottom left corners. Mark the top edge of the block on the pattern. Cut one swirl ending at this line. On the other 12" x 8" block place the swirl pattern aligning the upper right corners. Mark the bottom edge of the block on the pattern. Cut one swirl ending at this line. 5. From light blue textured print, cut two 1 1/4" x 24 1/2" inner borders and two 1 1/4" x 34" inner borders. Fusible Appliqués Read and follow the manufacturer s directions for working with paper backed fusible webbing. Trace shapes onto the paper side of fusible web before fusing to the fabric. Avoid building up 3 or more layers of fusible as it will make your appliqué areas very stiff. For shapes that are layered over other appliqué pieces, trace the shape to the paper side of the fusible web. Rough cut around the shape. Trim the fusible 1/4" inside the drawn line. Carefully lay the fusible piece on the wrong side of fabric so it retains its shape and fuse it in place. Cut shape along the drawn line. You will have fusible along the edge of the fabric to hold it in place but not in the middle.

8 1. From yellow: make 14 star points, 2 half star points and 4 small circles. 2. From yellow: make 12 star points, 3 small stars and 1 large 6-point star. 3. From pink: make 7 star points, 1 half star point with pattern reversed, 1 large circle, 1 medium star, 1 small star, 2 flower shapes, 1 quarter flower shape and 2 small 6-point stars. 4. From dark orange: make 6 star points, 1 large star, 1 large quarter star, 1 medium star, 1 flower shape and 3 large 6-point stars. 5. From light orange: make 7 star points, 1 half star point with pattern reversed, 1 large star, 1 large circle, 1 medium star, 2 flower shape. 1 small circle and 1 large 6-point star and 1 small 6-point star. 6. From violet: make one large star, 1 large circle, 1 large quarter circle, 2 medium stars, 1 small star, 1 small circle and 1 large 6-point star. 7. From green: make 1 large circle, 1 large quarter circle, 1 large quarter star, 1 medium star, 1 small star, 2 flower shapes, 1 small circle and 1 small 6-point star. 8. From light blue: make 6 star points, 1 large star, 2 small stars and 1 small circle. Making the Blocks: 1. Pin a swirl in place on each 12" square block. Pin the partial swirls in place on the 12" x 8" blocks. Stitch along the edges of the swirls with gold metallic thread using a decorative machine stitch or zigzag stitch. Turn the block to the wrong side. Cut away background fabric behind swirl about 1/4" from stitching. 2. Draw a line in the center or a 12" piece of paper, then draw another line perpendicular to the first dividing the paper in quarters. Trace the star placement diagram to each quarter of the paper to make a star. Use this pattern to assemble the stars. 3. Place the paper pattern on your ironing board. DO NOT remove the paper backing from the star points. Following the photo for color placement, position the star points for that block onto the paper pattern. Hold them in place with a couple pins. 4. Remove the paper backing from the star center and place it in the center over the star points. Turn 8 the steam off on your iron. Using the very tip of your iron, quickly tack the outer edge of the star center to the inner edge of the star points. Hold the iron in place just long enough to lightly fuse the edge in place. If it sticks to the paper pattern a little bit, carefully lift the star off the paper. 5. Turn over the star and remove the paper from the star patterns. Fuse the star in the center of a block. Fuse the large circles and the flower shapes centered on the star center. Repeat for each block. 6. In the same manner, make the quarter stars for the corners of the 12" x 8" blocks and fuse them in place. Fuse the medium stars in place on the blocks. Fuse a small star and a small circle centered on the medium stars. Fuse a small star and small circle to the upper left block. Fuse a flower shape and large 6 point to the lower right block. 7. Stitch along the edges of the shapes using a decorative machine stitch, blind appliqué stitch or zigzag stitch. Stitch around some shapes using gold metallic thread. Stitch others using matching or contrasting color threads. Use your creativity. 8. Arrange the blocks in two rows with the 12" x 8" block at the top on the left side and the other 12" x 8" block at the bottom on the right side. Stitch all seams with right sides together using a 1/4 seam allowance. Stitch the blocks in each row together. Press the seams toward the top on the left row and the bottom on the right row. 9. Following the photo, fuse a small star with small circle between the 12" blocks on the left side. Fuse a flower shape with a 6 point star between the 12" blocks on the right side. Stitch along the edges of the shapes using a decorative machine stitch, blind appliqué stitch or zigzag stitch. 10. Stitch the rows together along the center matching seams and edges of swirls. Borders: 1. Stitch a short inner border to the top and bottom of the blocks. Stitch a long inner border to the side edges of the blocks. 2. Stitch a short border to the top and bottom of the blocks. Stitch a long border to the side edges of the blocks. 3. Fuse the medium stars in place at the corner of the border. Fuse a small star and a small circle centered on the medium stars. Fuse small stars with small circle and flower shapes with large 6 point stars near the corner stars. Stitch along the edges of the shapes using a decorative machine stitch, blind appliqué stitch or zigzag stitch.

9 Using Fusi-Boo Batting 1. Follow manufacturer s instructions for Fusi-Boo batting. Sandwich the batting between the quilt top and bottom. 2. Set iron to the wool setting with steam. Working from the center, hold iron in place for 3 to 4 seconds using a burst of steam. 3. Move the iron to the next section and repeat. 4. Quilt as desired. 5. Trim the batting and the backing even with the edges of the quilt top. Fusible Binding 1. From yellow fabric, cut four 1 1/8" crosswise strips and two 1 1/8" x 4" strips. Trim selvages from the Templates: crosswise strips. Stitch the 4" strips to the ends of two long strips to make the side bindings. 2. Cut 1 1/8" strips of paper backed fusible webbing and fuse them to the wrong side of the strips. Remove the paper backing from the fabric strips. 3. Draw a guideline for the binding 3/8" in from the edges edge of the quilt top. Begin with the top and bottom edges. Place one short binding strip along the edge of the quilt top so it just covers the guide line. With the tip of the iron carefully tack the binding in place. 4. Fold the binding over the edge and tack it in place on the back. Work from the top to fuse the binding in place. 5. Fuse the longer binding strips to the side edges in the same manner mitering the ends of the binding on the back side of the quilt. 6. With gold metallic thread, stitch along the inner edge of the binding using a decorative stitch or blind hem stitch. 1/4 Largest Star Small Star Medium Star Star Point 9 COURTESY: Judy Novella Fairfield Processing Corp.

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