Apparel Inspection Checklist. Sampling Plan: ANSI/ASQC Z1.4 Single sampling plan for Normal Inspection, General Inspection level II

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1 Sampling Plan: ANSI/ASQC Z1.4 Single sampling plan for Normal Inspection, General Inspection level II Acceptable Level: AQL, Critical (Not Allowed) Major (2.5) Minor (4.0) Defect Classification Method: 1. Critical Defect: A unit of product is classified as Critical Defect if it would result in hazardous or unsafe conditions for individuals using, maintaining or depending upon the product. 2. Major Defect: A unit of product is classified as Major Defect if it is likely to result in failure, or to reduce materially the usability of the unit for its intended purpose. 3. Minor Defect: A unit of product is classified as Minor Defect if it is not likely to reduce materially the usability of the unit of product for its intended purpose.( That means it is having little bearing on the effective use of the product). Aug. 26, 2013 Page 1

2 Special Carton Labeling Requirement Hot Topic requires that each carton be properly marked and have an original TPM label properly placed. TPM labels must NOT be covered with tape and they must use good ink quality. Inspectors should take picture for reference. Below is the detailed instruction written on the vendor manual. Carton Labeling To easily identify, sort and process the products, Hot Topic requires that each carton be properly marked and have an original TPM label properly placed. Due to the fact that cases are first acknowledged in our system after the TPM barcodes have been scanned, it is essential that the information programmed into each label EXACTLY matches the contents of the case. Should any new items be added to a previously labeled carton, vendors are responsible for printing a fresh and accurate TPM label. While printing TPM labels, as a Vendor you should: Use self-adhesive labels that are 4x5 inches for laser printers or 4x6 inches for zebra printers. Self-adhesive labels for laser printers, such as Avery label 5353, may be purchased from any office supply store. Refrain from using labels printed on regular paper and applied to cases with tape, as they do not comply with Hot Topic s scanning technologies and will result in a chargeback. Ensure that TPM barcodes are printed with 100% quality. Barcodes that are faded, cut off, or have obvious imperfections will not scan properly Aug. 26, 2013 Page 2

3 Details of Defective : - Use of monofilament sewing thread that will hurt customer s skin - No warning clause on polybag if require - Any sharp point(exposed claw, protruding nail)/sharp edge on accessories - Infestation of live insect - Polybag thickness less than mm - Needle detected - No waist and bottom drawstring allowed on all clothing unless: Y 3 maximum length when garment is expanded to full width, Y Drawstrings must be tacked at midpoint A) Accessories - Any missing/malfunction accessory - Dimension, colour, art work or content not as specified - Button inside out - Button marking not removed - Damaged button (depends on seriousness) - Rusted stud, snap, rivet, buckle, zipper, hook & bar - Paint peel off on stud, snap and buckle (depends on obviousness) - Missing studs/stones/embellishments (shake garment and pass hand over surface area of embellishment to check) - Button and buttonhole not aligned cause bulge (depends on obviousness) - Buttonhole too small to allow button to pass Through Aug. 26, 2013 Page 3

4 - Uncut / partially cut buttonhole - Ragged edges at buttonhole - Broken buttonhole stitches - Button thread easily pulled out/unsecured buttonhole stitches - Wordings upside down on button / snap - Gap at zip top / end (depends on size) - Sparse embroidery - Wrong way insertion of belt - All back tacking (straps, loops, non-denim belt loops etc) is not stitched from edge to edge and is not secure(should be at least twice stitched). - Insecure shoulder pad attached - Illegible information on accessory - Poor finish on belt(front/back) - Corrosion of hardware - Hardware does not function properly - Hooks and eyes not aligned causing a bulge or twist - Incorrect placement of hardware - Incorrect thread size, quality, color - Loose components (excluded babywear) - Mis-aligned hardware - Missing and mismatched hardware or trim - Pads not securely attached to garment - Eyelets are slightly out of alignment by 1 / 8 inch - Exposed zippers that detract from appearance of garment - Wavy zippers - Zipper too short or too long by more than 1 / 4 inch Aug. 26, 2013 Page 4

5 - Zipper not locking - Pant bottom zippers is not locking zipper. - Denim belt loops are not bar-tacked at top and bottom B) Cutting of Material: - Missing notches Poor or incorrect pinning were applicable Ragged edges caused by cut of dull knife if obviously unsightly Visible notches on finish garment Cut parts greater than (>) 1 / 8 inch of pattern - - C) Workmanship and appearance ***Stitch and seam - Irregular stitch density - Loose / tight stitches - Crooked stitches (depends on size) - Skipped stitches 1/4 on lockstitching (depends on size) - Skipped stitches on chainstitching - Broken stitches 1/4 on lockstitching (depends on size) - Broken stitches on chainstitch (any size) - Run-off stitches 1/4 (depends on size) - Blind stitching visible (depends on obviousness) - Undulated stitches - Snarled stitches Aug. 26, 2013 Page 5

6 - Needle cutting/chews/holes - Seam grin exposed - Insufficient seam allowance 3/8 (or below specified) - Unwanted pleat - Seam slippage - Puckered seam (depends on obviousness) - Open seam (any size) - Cracked seam - Seam not fully opened before stitching - Underply seam visible (depends on obviousness) - Abrasion feed mark (depends on obviousness) - Uncut thread ends 1 or more (depends on obviousness) - Bartacks that is distinctively mis-located - Bulky seams - Collar noticeably off-center - Collar setting stitch showing - Component parts not securely tacked - Conspicuously uneven turn-out of edges and points - Crooked or uneven fly top-stitching - Crooked or uneven placket - Darts poorly shaped with large bubbles or dimples - Edges not finished as specified - Glue marks or residue on outside of garment - Glue marks or residue inside, not apparent on outside of garment - Illegible printing on labels - Illegible screen print - Improper hand sewn end stitches Aug. 26, 2013 Page 6

7 - Crooked or uneven vent - Part twisted - Press marks from the use of Clamps or other holding devices - Protruding under wire out of casing - Rags-incomplete garments - Raw edge - Screen printing poor resolution - Shade of loops not matching garment - Sleeves set in improperly, backwards, twisted - Uneven placket length greater than (>) 1 / 4 inch - Uneven side vents by more than 1 / 4 inch - Unsecured seams - Blind stitch bit too deep - Excessively puckered or twisted hem - Hem pre stitch (stay) showing - Open blind stitch with three or more skipped stitches - Uneven hem greater than (>) 1 / 4 inch - Stitching on embellishment application is not knotted at back every linear inch - Knots on embellishment application are longer than 3/8 inch or shorter than 3/16 inch - Denim J shape at fly are not consistent across all sizes(factory must use template) *** Fusing: - Bad surface - Cracking - Discoloration Aug. 26, 2013 Page 7

8 - Fuse-delaminate or poor bonding - Fuse bubbling - Incompatible shrinkage - Obvious foreign parts between fusible and fabric - Incomplete adhesive on interlining - Strike through/back from adhesive interlining - Fusing bubbles/wrinkled fuse on interlining ***Assembling - Mismatched stripes, checks or prints over 1/8" - Asymmetric collar (depends on obviousness) - Uneven collar point ¼" (depends on length) - Facings pulling - Uneven sleeve length 1/2" or more - Uneven leg length 1/2" or more - High/low pockets 1/4" or more - Pocket not smooth / squared (depends on obviousness) - Pocket flap not centered over pocket 1/4" (depend on length) - Misalignment of cuff / neck 1/4" (depends on length) - Uneven hem line - - Exposed white pocket bag - Slanted placket - Asymmetric/uneven collar/neck opening ***Washing Aug. 26, 2013 Page 8

9 - Uneven washing effect - Streaky mark - Pills / Hairy on garment surface (depends on density) - Broken collar / Cuff and Hem (depends on size) - Sand on garment surface - Rocks inside pockets - Different washing effect (if specified) - Mildew or heavily odor garment - Abrasion greater than standard - Stones bruises on fabric ***Pressing - Wrinkle (depends on obviousness) - Wet - Seam not fully pressed open - Crease mark (depends on seriousness) - Burn mark - Water spot (depends on obviousness) - Colour stain (depends on obviousness) - Oil stain (depends on obviousness) - Melt - Glazed / Scorched mark (depends on obviousness) - Pleated press Aug. 26, 2013 Page 9

10 - Zip / button mark made by improper pressing - Ring from cleaning gun D) Packing and Presentation: - Missing price ticket /hangtag/ label/ clips/ cardboard paper/ tissue paper, etc. - Wrong placement of price ticket/hangtag/label etc. - Wrong size set - Wrong size/ colour assortment - Improper folding (depends on obviousness) - Soil/Dirty polybag - Bulky/Broken export carton - Empty space 2 or more inside export carton - Illegible printing on boxes/price hangtag - Crushed or damaged cartons E) In specific items a. SHIRT / BLOUSE - Collar not symmetrical in size, shape or length (depends on size) - Under collar exposed on outside of top collar (depends on obviousness) - Foreign matter sewn inside the finished collar/yoke/cuff - Open seam at collar points Aug. 26, 2013 Page 10

11 - Yellowish interlining being see through (depends on obviousness) - Flap points not fully turned out - Dart ends not stitched to a fine point II JACKET - Puckered seam at hood facing (depends on obviousness) - Front placket not down to hem 1/4" or more - Uneven fullness at armhole - Wrong way insertion of zip (if specified) - Snap easily pulled off - Uneven or loose elastication on rib/bottom - Loosened quilting stitches - - Malfunctioning of buckle/snap/zipper - Fabric easily torn at snap position - A noticeable amount of down percolation on the Lining - Down leakage - Drill hole exposed - Hem not level b. JEANS Aug. 26, 2013 Page 11

12 - High-low waistband ends 1/4" or more - Waistband corners not folded in right shape - Inclined belt loops - Mismatched belt loop colour (depends on obviousness) - Pocket bag caught in tack - Missing bartack (at significant area if specified) - Bulged fly (depends on obviousness) - Zip exposed when buttoned - Rusted studs / rivets - Twisted seam at leg 1/2" or more - Holes at hem after stone washing 1/4" or more (depends on size) - Uneven washing effect (depends on obviousness) - Different lots of shade from garment to garment c. KNITTED T-SHIRT - Neck opening / collar not symmetrical (depends on obviousness) - Asymmetric body shape - Twisted body at sideseam 1/2" or more - Twisted/slanted/curved/pleated placket (depends on obviousness) - Colour thread shown at back neck - Missing shoulder seam strap (if specified) Aug. 26, 2013 Page 12

13 - Needle cutting at cuff seaming - Stretched / enlarged buttonhole (depends on size) - Blindstitching exposed at cuff/hem (depends on obviousness) - Twisted seam at cuff / bottom (depends on obviousness) - Untrimmed seam allowance at inside hem (inside garment) - Unleveled hem - Mismatched rib colour (depends on obviousness) - Mismatched stripes / checks at shoulder / sideseam 1/8" or above (depends on size) d. SWEATER - Wrong knitting pattern - Barre - Thin/thick place - Single yarn - Slub yarn - Split yarn - Yarn run - Knots - Hole (other than normal loop hole) - Laddering - Dirty yarn - Dropped stitches 1/4" or more (depend on length) - Garment weight below specification 1/2 lb or above Aug. 26, 2013 Page 13

14 - Neck / opening too small to pass through the head - Twisted sleeve 1/2" or more - Twisted body 1/2" or more at sideseam - Shoulder seam / side seam / underarm seam shown at front - High/low placket 1/4" on bottom - Tight armhole (depends on obviousness) - Enlarge sleeve (depends on obviousness) - Zig Zag seaming at armhole - Facing exposed at placket -Mildew - Odor smell - Dusty (depends on obviousness) - Harsh hand feel - Melt or excessive wash - Spirally (10o or more) - Mending place - Loose linking - Untrimmed seaming thread - Tight/Insecure seam end at cuff/hem - Different colour of seaming yarn - Glazed or scorched press at seam - Flat press at cable - Shiny press at seaming - Less elastic at rib cuff/hem - Unremovable crease line Aug. 26, 2013 Page 14

15 - Pull-out loop e. SWIMWEAR - A line of needle holes (1cm) - Loose/tight lining - Flash at accessory - Long/short strap(1cm) - Dirt Aug. 26, 2013 Page 15