Facings and Lining - Part 2

Transcription

1 Facings and Lining - Part 2 1. Stitch Front Lining piece (part of the main front after adjusting the facing). Leave open for approximately 10 cm from bottom. When matching lining with front facing, ensure you match the hem line. 1. Lining hem is 1.5cm shorter than jacket hem. Front facing has a 1.0 cm seam allowance - hence lining is 2.5cm longer than facing. Refer to picture. 2. Apply Edge Tape to front and back facing. Stitch remainder of lining pieces, allowing for the pleat in the center back. Press seams open Re-inforce shoulder/collar corner as per previous instructions in Part 1. Stitch front facing/lining to back facing/lining as previous instruction for jacket. Pivot on the re-inforced corner. Refer Part 1 - #7, 8(a) and 8(b) Stitch Lining sleeves and insert as per Part 1 - # Apply Edge Tape to Front Facing edge Page 1

2 4. Stitch Outer Jacket and Inner Jacket (facings and lining) along outer edge. Stitch around facing - stop 1.0 cm before edge - this is the seam allowance. Refer picture - circled area Trim the rounding - cut sm all triangles. Try using Pinking shears. Im portant Leave an opening in a side lining seam. The jacket will need to be turned thru this opening when jacket hem and sleeve hem s have been stitched Place the pattern on the jacket and m ark the beginning of the fold line of the collar. The beginning is on the sewing line NOT on the edge of the seam. Refer to pin position in picture. Clip the seam. 7. To reduce bulk - the seam is cut back on one side. 6 Starting at the fold line nick - cut back one of the seam s above and below to half. When we understitch this area, we will be working from the right side. The clipped seam needs to be between the jacket and the other full seam. 7. Page 2

3 8. Understitch - starting at the rounded bottom up to the fold line nick - working on the facing side. Stop. Understitch the collar section - starting at the fold line nick and continuing to the other side - working on the outside of the jacket. 8. Understitching is not be be seen on the right side of jacket or when the collar is folded back. 9. Stitch lining to the jacket hem cm seam allowance, only about half way to the back split. Turn back the clipped corner onto the facing/lining seam. This is can be confusing - study the picture and try to achieve the same look, you will then know you have it right. 9. Stitch where the pins are - this is 1.0 cm seam allowance and ensure you stitch over the turned corner. 10. Turn jacket out. Do not press at this stage - wait until the back split is complete. 10. Page 3

4 Back Split, Mitre and Lining 11. Cut back one of the back split allowances to 6cm width. (Left side cut in the picture) Stitch mitre corners - Follow instructions below. 12. A. Press Split and hem allowance onto each other. Mark with chalk or a small nick at the point the edges meet. A. B. B. Fold with right sides matching and stitch diagonally from the clipped points to corner. C. Trim corner back to 1.0 cm seam allowance. Clip corner to reduce bulk. Press open. D. Turn corner out. Press. Mitre corner completed. C. D. Page 4

5 13. Cut left lining by 4.0 cm from edge and 1.5 cm below jacket split. Clip diagonally into corner - allowing a 1.0 cm fold back seam allowance Position lining over split - right side of lining is in line with CB seam - pin to split. Fold back 1.0 cm seam allowance on left side of lining - pin in place. 14. This area can be machine stitched if you can manage to work thru the opening in the side seam - otherwise hand stitch to jacket split. 15. Turn jacket to right side and secure split by stitching thru all layers diagonally Stitch sleeve facings. Stitch to sleeves up to the marked opening. Press seam open. Work carefully in this area - when facings are turned - should be no puckers. Trim corners. Turn facings and understitch on hem. 16. Page 5

6 17. Stitch lining to sleeve facings - there should be a 1.5 cm overhang. You can machine stitch by turning sleeve thru side opening. Pin as per picture, hold the lining and facing at the pin and pull thru side opening. Stitch lining to edge of sleeve facing. 17. Finishing - shoulder pads, button holes and buttons 18. Stitch shoulder pads into place by hand. Use a large hand needle and double thread. There are a variety of shoulder pads available. Choose the thickness and size you prefer but a tailored jacket must have shoulder pads for it to look well made. Some shoulder pads have a slightly longer side on one side - in ladies jackets this should be in the front Stitch the neck seam of jacket and facing together - this will keep the collar in place. 19. Page 6

7 20. Ditch stitch the shoulder - use a hand needle and stitch from the neck to the shoulder in the seam. Ensure that the shoulder seams are matching and do not stitch thru to outside - just catch the should pad Stitch the sleeve lining underarm to the jacket sleeve underarm. Working thru the side opening - match the seam of the lining sleeve/armhole with the jacket sleeve/armhole seam - machine stitch in the center. This holds the sleeve lining in place. 21. You may now machine stitch the side opening in the lining closed. Press the outer edge - previously understitched. Press on the inside - the outer edge is meant to roll slightly so that no stitching is visible. 22. Mark buttonholes as per placement on pattern. This jacket has corded buttonholes for extra strength and durability. The Bernina manual has instructions on how to make corded buttonholes. Refer to your manual for other machine brands. 22. Sew on Buttons on front & sleeves, place a button on either side, buttonholes not required. Congratulations!! You have finished your tailored jacket. Any questions or feedback? Please me on dragana@dragana.com.au. Your questions may take 48 to 72 hours to be answered, so please be patient. Would you like to attend a tailoring workshop - offered on a weekend? Minimum of 4 people required. Register your interest and I will advise when the next one is available. Would you like more information about my regular classes? Please refer to Sewing Classes Dragana Edwards Are you interested in Patternmaking Classes? or Patternmaking Online? Fabric from: Cutting Edge, Glenferrie Road Malvern Vic Page 7