OTTOBRE design collection for Autumn/Winter 2012

Transcription

1 OTTOBRE design collection for Autumn/Winter 0 Copyright STUDIO TUUMAT OY Rovaniemi, FINLAND, August 0 GENERAL INSTRUCTIONS Please read the following general instructions before starting your project. How to choose the correct size Adults sizes are chosen either according to the bust/chest measurement (e.g. blouses, jackets, coats) or the hip measurement (pants, skirts). Take the measurements on top of thin underwear and compare them with the size chart. You will find detailed instructions for taking measurements on the next page. How to find the pattern pieces on the pattern sheet An overview of numbered, smallscale pattern pieces and a list of pattern pieces can be found next to the sewing instructions for each design. The appropriate pattern sheet is also stated. On the bottom edge of the pattern sheet, fi d the number with the correct color for the desired pattern piece and move your finger upward on the sheet until you locate the same number. Trace the pattern on tissue paper, including all the necessary markings (e.g. grainlines, notches, pocket placements). The markings are also visible on the small-scale patterns next to the instructions. Make all adjustments to the pattern before ting out the garment pieces. Patterns The patterns include hem allowances, button extensions and facings. When ting out the garment pieces, add seam allowances of approx. cm (depending on the fabric) to each edge of the pattern. For reasons of clarity, some of the pattern markings (e.g. positions for Velcro tapes and buttons) have only been printed on the smallest-size pattern of the design. Copy these on the pattern size of your choice in the corresponding places, measuring the distance from the pattern edge. Large pattern pieces are printed on the pattern sheet in two parts. Combine parts A and B before ting out the fabric. Cutting Lay out the pattern pieces on a double layer of fabric observing the grainlines and foldlines. Draw the seam allowances on the fabric with tailor s chalk. If you only need to a piece out once, observe the pattern markings

2 and either on a fold (e.g. back, collar) or from a single layer of fabric (e.g. pocket). The measurements for garment pieces listed under the heading Cut also these pieces (e.g. belt loops, belts) already include seam allowances. When ting out the garment, include allowances for fitting adjustments if necessary. Each design includes specific and detailed ting instructions. Garment sections to be interfaced are shaded in grey in the overview of small-scale pattern pieces. Knitted and woven interfacings are on the grain, while non-woven interfacings may be in any direction as they do not have a grain. Interfacing pieces are generally adding the same amount of seam allowance (approx. cm) as on pieces from the fashion fabric. How ever, a smaller seam allowance may be used on interfacings for heavy-weight fabrics. Materials Fabric requirements are based on a fabric width of 0 cm. Preshrink the fabric before ting either by pre-washing or by steam pressing. If you choose a different fabric from the one suggested in the magazine, allow for matching up patterns and for ting with nap when calculating the fabric requirement. Choose the interfacing on the basis of the fashion fabric s color, quality, weight and care instructions. Since the quality and stretch of elastics vary, check the elastic lengths before sewing. If a zipper is not available in a desired length, buy a longer zipper and shorten it as shown in the illustration on pattern sheet C. Sewing Read through the instructions before you start sewing. If you wish, baste and try on the garment before sewing. To make sewing easier, the instructions have been written on the basis of techniques used in the clothing industry. The terms inner / outer and left / right refer to the garment when worn. Finish off the construction seams of the garment as you sew, even if the instructions do not specifical y mention this. To finish off seams you can either use a serger or a machine zigzag stitch. On knit fabrics, stitch the seams using a machine stretch-stitch or a serger. No separate seam finis is necessary. Seams inside a lined garment do not necessarily have to be finished Hems (e.g. at the garment s lower edge or sleeve edges) are made by turning under the seam allowance and topstitching close to the edge. The width of the hem and the seam allowance is given in brackets; for example sew hem ( cm + cm) means that the hem allowance is cm and the seam allowance cm. Iron the garment seams as you sew and give the garment a final pressing when it is completed. Practical tips Gathering: Decrease the upper thread tension and increase the stitch length (stitch length...). Sew two rows of gathering stitches 0. cm apart from each other on the right side of the edge to be gathered, placing one row on the seamline and the other within the seam allowance. Leave long thread ends. Gather the fabric by pulling simultaneously on both bobbin threads and spreading the gathers between your fingers evenly over the required length. The gathered edge is stitched in place between the gathering stitches using a regular straight stitch. Easing: Easing stitches are sewn as gathering stitches but the bobbin threads are pulled just enough to make the edge curve slightly (e.g. in set-in sleeve caps). SIZE CHART AND MEASURING WOMEN Height 8 ± cm regular fit Size Bust Hip Waist Outseam length Shoulder width Sleeve length Back width Upper arm circ Back waist length You can find this chart with measurements in inches on ottobredesign.blogspot.fi TAKING THE MEASUREMENTS It is hard to take your own measurements and therefore you need a friend to assist you. It is advisable to take the measurements in front of a mirror so that you can also see the position of the tape measure at the back. You will need a tape measure, a pen and paper. You can print a measurement chart out from our website at You will also need two fi ed tapes, one round the waist and the other round the neck. You can make the tapes from a cm wide strip of cotton fabric by folding and pressing it in three and by ting it into required lengths. Place the waistline tape exactly horizontally round your waist and secure it firm y with a safety pin. Place the other tape round your neck so that you can easily slide your finge between the tape and your neck. The tape will thus be set at the base of your neck. For taking the measurements, you should stand upright with a relaxed posture with arms hanging free at the sides. The measurements are taken on top of underwear (panties and a lightweight camisole or a bra) close to the body, yet not too tight. Height Stand up with your back and heels against a wall and let your assistant make a mark on the wall at the top of your head, using a straight angle (e.g. a book). Your height is the distance measured from the floor to the marking. Bust Measure horizontally round the body with the tape measure running under the arms across the full bustline and across the shoulder blades. Waist Measure round the waist without the fi ed waistline tape. Hip Measure horizontally round the seat (usually the fullest part of the hip). Outseam length Measure the distance from the waistline to the floor (measure from the lower edge of the waistline tape). Shoulder width Measure the distance from the base of the neck to the point of the shoulder. Sleeve length Measure from the point of the shoulder to the wrist, with the tape measure running over the elbow. Take the measurement with the arm slightly bent. Back waist length Measure from the base of the neck to the waist, to the lower edge of the fi ed waistline tape. The measurements in the size chart are taken on the body. The patterns include the necessary allowances for ease of movement. The patterns in the magazine have been designed for a person with a height of -7 cm. If you are considerably shorter or taller, make the necessary alterations to the patterns before ting the garment pieces out. Points to be checked are the centerback length of a blouse or top as well as the sleeve and leg length. The designs, patterns, instructions, photos and articles in this magazine are protected under international copyright laws. Professional, industrial and commercial use of the material and manufacture under license is only possible under a written agreement with the copyright holder. For further information, contact us in writing, address: Studio Tuumat Oy, PL, FI-90 Rovaniemi, Finland. OTTOBRE design or Studio Tuumat Oy has no obligation to compensate for possible financial losses esulting from misprints or other errors on the pattern sheet or in the instructions. Copyright Studio Tuumat Oy, Rovaniemi, Finland

3 . Stitch Details linen tunic/dress Pages cm cm lightweight linen or soft cotton fabric, width cm - cm interfacing, - invisible zipper, length 0 cm - DMC embroidery floss for topstitching 8 7 Topstitching bodice front bodice back lower front panel lower back panel sleeve pocket piece + 7 shaped facing for front 8 shaped facing for back PATTERN SHEET A blue ABOUT PATTERN Trace the pattern pieces on tissue paper. Pin the darts on the pattern pieces for the bodice front and back and try the pattern pieces on you. Pay special attention to the bust points, the position of the bottom edge of the bodice, and the depth and length of the darts. Make all the necessary alterations to the pattern pieces before ting out the garment pieces. Cut garment pieces from fabric as indicated on list of pattern pieces. Cut also two. cm x cm strips on the grain for sleeve-edge trims. with straight stitch and finish them with serger or zigzag stitch. Sew decorative topstitching around neckline and along seams that join bodice and lower section by hand with backstitches using embroidery floss. Sew mm long backstitches with strands of embroidery floss, leaving mm spaces between stitches (see illustration). Preparation: Cut interfacing for shaped facings and fuse it in place. Finish raw outer edges of shaped facings. Stitch darts on bodice front and back as marked on pattern. Fold inverted pleats on lower front panel as marked on pattern and machine-baste them in position. Neckline: Pin bodice front and back right sides together and stitch shoulder seams. Finish seam allowances together and press them toward bodice back. Pin shaped facings right sides together, stitch their shoulder seams and press seams open. Pin shaped facing to neckline, right sides together, and stitch neckline seam. Clip neckline seam allowances along curves (clip seam allowances on shaped facing and neck edge at different points in order to avoid ending up with a jagged neckline). Understitch neckline seam allowances to shaped facing close to seamline. Turn shaped facing to wrong side and press neck edge gently. Pin shaped facing to neckline carefully and baste it in place close to its outer edge. Attach outer edge of shaped facing to neckline with decorative topstitching. Sleeve edges: Finish one raw long edge of each sleeve-edge trim and stitch narrow hems at these edges. Press folds on right side of each trim at cm intervals. Make mm deep pleat at each pressed fold on one trim and machine-baste pleats in position along unfinished edge of trim. Form pleats on the other trim so that the trim becomes a mirror image of the first one. Lay sleeve-edge trims on an ironing board and pin their hemmed edges to board, making sure that pleats are equal width. Press trims, remove pins and press pleats again thoroughly through damp ironing cloth. Measure width of bottom edge of sleeve and trims to fit sleeve edges. Pin and stitch trims to sleeve edges, right sides together, and finish seam allowances together. Fold seam allowances toward sleeves and topstitch seams close to seamlines. Joining: Pin lower front panel to bodice front and lower back panel to bodice back, right sides together, and stitch seams. Finish seam allowances together. Fold seam allowances toward bodice panels and sew rows of decorative topstitching along seams, placing them 7 mm away from seamline. Finish raw side-seam edges. Finish raw edges of pocket pieces. Pin and stitch pocket pieces to side seam allowances on front and back panels as marked on pattern, right sides together. Understitch seam allowances to pocket pieces close to seamline. Open invisible zipper. Stitch zipper to garment s left sideseam edges as marked on pattern, right sides together, aligning top end of zipper with pattern marking close to armhole and using invisible zipper foot for stitching. Stitch right side seam from armhole to notch at top end of pocket opening and from notch at bottom end of pocket opening to bottom-hem edge. Stitch left side seam from armhole to top end of zipper, from bottom end of zipper to notch at top end of pocket opening, and from notch at bottom end of pocket opening to bottom-hem edge. Pin and stitch pocket pieces together. Fold pockets toward garment s front and stitch short horizontal rows of reinforcing stitching at ends of pocket openings from right side of garment. Sew rows ease-stitching along sleeve caps as marked on pattern, pull up bobbin threads gently and steam sleeve caps to shape them. Stitch underarm seams of sleeves. Pin and stitch sleeves to armholes, right sides together. Stitch underarm seam allowances flat across sleeve-edge trims. Finish raw bottom-hem edge. Pin, press and stitch bottom hem as marked on pattern.. Warmly Wrapped wrap-around jacket Page 8 9cm Join pattern pieces +A before ting.cut garment pieces from rib knit as indicated on list of pattern pieces cm lightweight rib knit, viscose/cashmere blend (CV/PA/WS), width cm cm clear elastic tape, width 8 mm, Framilon with serger or with overedge stretch stitch on regular sewing machine. Stitch hems with flatlock stitch on serger or with suitable decorative overedge stitch on regular sewing machine (e.g. honeycomb stitch). Joining: Pin body of jacket panels right sides together and stitch center-back seam with straight stitch. Trim seam allowances and press seam open gently. Topstitch center-back seam using flatlock stitch. Machine-baste piece of clear elastic tape to garment s top-edge seam allowance, placing it on wrong side between pattern markings (measure required length of tape on pattern piece). Fold and baste hem at top edge as marked on pattern. Stitch hem with flatlock stitch, starting and ending stitching at outer edge of garment piece (see small-scale pattern). Fold and baste hem at garment s bottom edge as marked on pattern. Turn seam allowances at each end of hem in and secure ends of hem by hand-stitching. Stitch hem with flatlock stitch. Fold up and pin hems at sleeve edges and stitch them with flatlock stitch. Stitch underarm seams of sleeves. Stitch underarm seam allowances flat for a few centimeters at sleeve edges. Pin and stitch sleeves to armholes, right sides together. A + A body of jacket sleeve PATTERN SHEET B green

4 . Timeless and Cozy jersey tunic Pages cm viscoseblend single jersey (CV/PES/EL), stretch/recovery 0% cm clear elastic tape, Framilon Join pattern pieces +A and +A before ting. Cut garment pieces from single jersey as indicated on list of pattern pieces. Do not add seam allowances to neckline and bottom-hem edges. Cut also cm wide binding strips for finishing neckline and bottom-hem edge. If you use a binder attachment on your coverstitch machine to attach the bindings, the binding strips in the width that fits the binder. with serger or with overedge stretch stitch on regular sewing machine. Stitch hems with serger coverstitch or with twin needle on regular sewing machine. See general instructions for finishing edges with binding on p.. Stabilizing shoulder seams: Cut pieces of clear elastic tape for shoulder seams. Measure required length on pattern and add seam allowances. Machine-baste clear elastic tapes to wrong side of shoulder seam allowances with straight stitch. Shoulder seams and neckline: Pin front and back panels right sides together and stitch left shoulder seam. Finish neckline with binding. Stitch right shoulder seam. Stitch shoulder seam allowances flat across width of neckline binding. Joining: Fold up and press sleeve-edge hems and stitch them with serger coverstitch. Stitch sleeves to armholes, right sides together. Stitch sleeve underarm seams and side seams; leave one side seam unstitched for approx. 0 cm up from bottom hem. Mark clear elastic tape into quarters. Mark center-front and center-back points at bottom-hem edge. Pin clear elastic tape to bottom-hem edge, aligning its quarter marks with center-front and center-back points as well as with side seams, and machine-baste tape in place, stretching it as you sew. Finish bottom-hem edge with binding. Stitch rest of side seam and stitch its seam allowances flat across width of bottom-hem binding. A 87cm A +A front +A back sleeve PATTERN SHEET A black. Romantic Touch lace-knit cardigan Pages, 89cm front back cm wool-blend lace knit (WV/PAN/EL), width 0 cm cm grosgrain velvet ribbon, width 0 mm, for finishing seams A A +A front +A back sleeve PATTERN SHEET A green Join pattern pieces + A and + A before ting. Cut garment pieces from knit as indicated on list of pattern pieces. If possible, the front panels so that the beautiful picot-edge selvage of the knit forms the center-front edges of the cardigan. If you cannot make use of the selvage, add mm seam allowances to center-front edges. Construction techniques: Stitch sleeves to armholes as well as side seams and sleeve underarm seams with serger, or with overedge stretch stitch on regular sewing machine. Stitch hems with flatlock stitch on serger or with suitable decorative overedge stitch on regular sewing machine (e.g. honeycomb stitch). Shoulder seams and neckline: Pin front and back panels right sides together and stitch shoulder seams from point of shoulder to corner at neckline with 0 mm seam allowance and along collar with mm seam allowance, using straight stitch. Clip seam allowances at neckline corners as marked on pattern. Trim shoulder seam allowances across collar on back panel. Fold seam allowances on front panel over trimmed seam allowances on back panel, turn their edges under (like on flat felled seam) and attach turnedunder edges to collar by hand-stitching. Finish shoulder seams and stabilize back neckline with continuous strip of grosgrain velvet ribbon as follows: Measure required length of ribbon on pattern (shoulder seam + back neckline + the other shoulder seam) and add seam allowances. Pinmark neckline-corner points and centerback point on ribbon. Pin ribbon to wrong side of back panel along pattern marking for back neckline and stitch it in place close to both of its edges. Trim shoulder seam allowances slightly. Pin free ends of ribbon to shoulder seam allowances, placing them on front panel side of seams, and stitch them in place along edge that is closest to shoulder seamline (ribbon is only attached to seam allowance at this stage). Pin the other edges of ribbon over shoulder seams, concealing seam allowances, and stitch them in place through all layers. Joining: Pin and stitch sleeves to armholes. Stitch sleeve underarm seams and side seams. Fold up and pin bottom hem and sleeve-edge hems and stitch them with flatlock stitch. Finishing: Stitch narrow hem at top edge of collar either by hand with hemming stitches or with machine straight stitch. Moisten top edge of collar by steaming it gently. Pin the hemmed top edge of the collar to an ironing board so that a picot edge along the contours of the knit pattern is formed. Steam the picot edge of the collar through a damp cloth. Steam the seams and hems of the cardigan gently. If you cannot make use of the selvage of the knit at the center-front edges, stitch hems at the front edges and finish them in the same way as the top edge of the collar to create picot edges.

5 . New Season velveteen blazer Pages, 9 cm 0 Velveteen Lining fabric cm stretch velveteen (CO/EL), width cm cm viscose lining fabric (CV), width 0 cm cm interfacing, - three large (ø 0 mm) and two smaller (ø 7 mm) rose-shaped shank buttons - piece of wool fleece for sleeve heads at sleeve caps (- small shoulder pads) - contrast-color topstitching thread, Epic no. 80 Velveteen front panel side front panel A side front panel B lower front panel back panel side back panel 7 lower back panel 8 upper sleeve 9 under sleeve 0 upper collar under collar front facing back-hem facing pocket pocket flap 7 7 Lining fabric front panel lower front panel + back panel 7 lower back panel 8 upper sleeve 9 under sleeve 7 pocket pocket flap PATTERN SHEET B black Preshrink the fabrics before ting either by washing or by steaming them thoroughly. Shell: Cut shell pieces from velveteen as indicated on list of pattern pieces. Note that the pattern pieces must be laid on velveteen so that the nap runs in the same direction on all garment pieces from velveteen. Lining: Cut lining pieces from lining fabric as indicated on list of pattern pieces. Observe markings on the small-scale patterns and pay attention to the following points when ting out the lining: - Join pattern pieces for back panel and side back panel into a single pattern piece for lining back panel. - Trace pattern pieces for lower front and back panels of lining from patterns for shell. - Cut bottom edges of lining sleeves along pattern foldline and add a little extra to vertical seams of lining sleeves. - Lay pattern pieces for lining back panel and lower back panel on fabric fold and leave a little allowance for ease pleat along fold as indicated on small-scale patterns. - Cut pocket-flap lining pieces with slightly narrower seam allowances than outer pocket-flap pieces. with straight stitch. Sew topstitching with contrast-color thread using presser-foot edge as guide unless otherwise instructed. No seam finish is necessary as the garment is fully lined. Stabilizing: Cut interfacing for the following shell pieces and fuse it in place: front facings, back-hem facing, upper collar, pocket flaps, armholes and bottom edges of sleeves (see areas shaded in grey on small-scale patterns). Pockets: Fold soft pleats on pocket pieces from velveteen as marked on pattern and machine-baste baste them in position. Pin and stitch opening edges of velveteen pocket piece and pocket lining right sides together and understitch seam allowances to pocket lining. Pin velveteen pocket piece and pocket lining right sides together and stitch their curved edges together, leaving small opening for turning at one side edge. Turn pocket right side out and steam it lightly. Close opening for turning by hand-stitching. Pin and topstitch pockets to lower front panels as marked on pattern. Pocket flaps: Turn and press seam allowance on straight edge of pocket-flap lining to wrong side. Pin pocket flap pieces right sides together in pairs (velveteen piece + lining piece) and stitch their outer edges. Trim seam allowances slightly and turn pocket flap right side out. Topstitch outer edge of flap. Stitch buttonholes on pocket flaps as marked on pattern. Pin pocket flap above pocket, with outside of flap facing right side of lower front panel, and stitch it in place so that stitching only runs along edge of velveteen pocketflap piece. Turn seam allowance on attachment edge of velveteen pocket-flap piece inside flap and stitch folded edge of pocket-flap lining to attachment seam by hand. Fold flap down in position and stitch short rows of topstitching at each top corner of flap. Joining shell: Stitch side front panels A and B together first and then stitch them to front panels right sides together. Clip seam allowances along curves. Fold and press seam allowances of all seams toward front panels and topstitch seams. Stitch side back panels to back panels. Clip seam allowances along curves. Fold and press seam allowances toward back panels and topstitch seams. Stitch darts at waist edges of lower front and back panels. Pin lower front panels to front panels and lower back panels to back panels and stitch waist seams. Press seams open. Stitch and topstitch centerback seam. Stitch shoulder seams and side seams and press seams open. Pin upper sleeve and under sleeve right sides together and stitch back seam of sleeve. Fold seam allowances toward upper sleeve and topstitch seam. Stitch underarm seam of sleeve and press it open. Sew rows easestitching along sleeve caps as marked on pattern and pull up bobbin threads to shape sleeve caps. Try garment on and insert sleeves into armholes. Check length of sleeves and press hems at bottom edges of sleeves. Stitch sleeves to armholes. Cut 0 mm wide strips from wool fleece for sleeve heads to be placed at sleeve caps. Stitch sleeve heads to armhole seam allowances, placing them on sleeve side between pattern markings for sleeve ease. (Attach shoulder pads to shoulder and armhole seam allowances with French tacks.) Joining lining: Fold darts on front and back panels into soft pleats and machinebaste them in position along waist seam allowances. Stitch ease pleat on back panel for a few centimeters down from neckline. Fold ease pleats into soft pleats at waist edges of back panel and lower back panel and machine-baste them in position along waist seam allowances. Pin front panels and lower front panels as well as back panels and lower back panels together and stitch waist seams. Stitch front facings to lining front panels. Fold and press seam allowances toward lining panels. Stitch back-hem facing to bottom edge of lining back panel and press seam allowances toward lining panel. Stitch shoulder seams of lining and press seam allowances toward back panel. Stitch side seams and press them open. Stitch upper sleeves and under sleeves together and leave 0 cm wide opening for turning in underarm seam of one sleeve. Press sleeve seams open. Stitch sleeves to armholes of lining. Hanging loop: Cut cm x 0 cm strip from lining fabric for hanging loop. Fold strip in half lengthwise, turn seam allowances on long edges in and stitch edges together. Machine-baste ends of hanging loop to neckline of lining back panel, placing them on each side of center-back mark. Collar: Pin upper collar and under collar right sides together and stitch their outer edges together. Cut small notches from seam allowances around round corners of collar and press collar seam open gently with point of iron. Turn collar right side out and baste its outer edge flat. Machine-baste open edges of collar together. Stitch collar to neckline of shell, with under collar facing right side of neck edge and aligning ends of collar with notches at neck edge. Intermediate press: Press shell and lining thoroughly before continuing. Turn shell and lining inside out; leave also sleeves inside out, hanging separately. Joining shell and lining: Pin and stitch neck edge, front edges and bottom-hem edge of lining to shell, right sides together and with collar in between. Bring sleeve edges of shell and lining end to end, pin edges together right sides facing, and stitch (note that shell sleeve and lining sleeve are not placed within one another). Leave garment inside out. Trim seam allowances on front facings around lapel corners and clip neckline seam allowances along curves. Pin bottom-hem facing to shell back panel wrong sides together and attach top edge of bottom-hem facing to back panel at side and center-back seams with a few hand stitches. Secure sleeve-edge hems to seam allowances on shell sleeves with a few hand-stitches. Secure armholes of shell and lining together with small French tacks sewn at garment s armpits. Turn garment right side out through opening for turning in sleeve underarm seam and close opening. Remove basting stitches from collar. Press garment thoroughly. Finishing: Topstitch front edges, collar edge and bottom-hem edge with continuous line of stitching. Sew smaller buttons on pockets. Stitch buttonholes and sew large buttons on garment s front edges as marked on pattern.

6 . Casual Cardi wool-knit jacket Pages, -7-0 cm garter stitch pattern knit and cm textured pattern knit (00% WV), width cm, weight g/m - 0 cm lightweight knit interfacing, cm velvet ribbon, width 0 mm, for finishing neckline - five buttons, ø mm Check the fabric requirement if your knit requires that the pattern of the knit be matched at the side seams. A A 80cm + A front + A back sleeve pocket hood PATTERN SHEET C black Join pattern pieces +A and +A before ting.cut hood and pockets from garter stitch pattern knit and other garment pieces from textured pattern knit as indicated on list of pattern pieces. with straight stitch. Finish seam allowances together with serger or zigzag stitch. If your knit is bulky, finish seam allowances separately and press seams open. Stitch flatlock stitching on hems and pockets with flatlock stitch on serger or with decorative overedge stitch on regular sewing machine (e.g. honeycomb stitch). Stabilizing: Cut interfacing for front facings and fuse it in place (see area shaded in grey on small-scale patterns). Pockets: Fold and pin hems at opening edges of pockets and stitch them with flatlock stitch. Steam pocket pieces to give them a little pouch shape before stitching them in place. Pin pockets to front panels as marked on pattern (without turning their edges under) and stitch them in place with flatlock stitch. Reinforce corners of opening edges of pockets with short rows of back and forth stitching. Joining: Pin sleeves to front and back panels right sides together and stitch raglan seams. Stitch sleeve underarm seams and side seams. Fold up, pin and steam hems at sleeve edges and stitch them with flatlock stitch. Fold front facings along facing foldline to right side of front panels and stitch bottom edges of facings to front panels along bottom-hem foldline. Trim bottom-hem seam allowances across front facings. Fold up, pin and steam garment s bottom hem and stitch it with flatlock stitch, starting and and ending stitching at outer edges of front facings. Hood: Pin hood panels right sides together and stitch top/back seam. Fold, pin and steam hem at face edge of hood and stitch it with flatlock stitch. Pin and stitch hood to neckline, right sides together, aligning its face edge with center-front marks on garment. Fold front facings to right side of front panels and stitch their neck edges to garment s neckline. Finishing neckline: Measure length of neckline on pattern pieces (= neck edges on front and back panels and on sleeves) and required length of velvet ribbon for neckline (ends of ribbon will be placed at center-front marks). Mark center-back and shoulder points on ribbon. Pin ribbon over neckline seam allowance on hood side and stitch its one edge close to neckline stitching line (ribbon is only stitched to seam allowances at this stage). Trim neckline seam allowances if necessary. Pin the other edge of ribbon over neckline seam, concealing seam allowances, and stitch it in place through all layers. Turn front neckline corners right side out. Pin outer edges of front facings to front panels and stitch them in place with flatlock stitch. Finishing: Mark buttonhole placements on right front panel, placing top buttonhole. cm down from neckline seam and the rest at regular - cm intervals. Stitch rectangles in the shape of buttonholes on front panel with straight stitch on regular sewing machine. Cut buttonholes open and sew buttonhole stitches by hand around their edges using wool yarn (unravel yarn from leftover scraps of knit). Sew buttons on left front panel. 7. Gardener cotton shirt blouse Pages, cm front upper front panel lower front panel back sleeve button band + collar + collar stand + 7 sleeve cuff + 8 pocket 8 7 PATTERN SHEET B red - cm floral and cm plaid cotton fabric (CO) - 0 cm interfacing, Vlieseline H 80 - buttons, ø mm Cut up pattern for front into two separate pattern pieces along marked seamline. Cut lower front panels, inner button bands, inside collar stand, under collar and inner sleeve cuffs from floral fabric and other garment pieces from plaid fabric as indicated on list of pattern pieces. Note that pockets and outer button bands are on the bias. Cut also two. cm x 0 cm pieces from floral fabric for finishing edges of cuff plackets. with straight stitch and finish them with serger or zigzag stitch. Topstitch seams and edges with two parallel rows of stitching unless otherwise instructed. Stabilizing: Cut interfacing for button bands, upper collar, outer collar stand and outer sleeve-cuff pieces and fuse it in place (see areas shaded in grey on smallscale patterns). Front panels: Pin and stitch upper and lower front panels right sides together. Fold seam allowances toward upper panels and topstitch seams. Stitch bust darts. Stitch hems at opening edges of pockets. Turn and press seam allowances on other pocket edges to wrong side. Pin pockets to front panels and stitch them in place with two parallel rows of stitching. Cuff plackets: Slash sleeve edges for cuff plackets as marked on pattern. Pin and stitch placket bindings to placket edges, with right side of binding facing wrong side of placket; leave even 7 mm seam allowance all along edge of binding while placing stitching mm away from placket edges at bottom edge of sleeve and mm away from placket edges at top end of placket (see illustration). Fold binding in half, turn seam allowance on its free edge under and stitch turnedunder edge to right side of placket close to edge. Stitch small dart at top end of each placket. Leave placket edge closest to underarm seam straight and fold other placket edge to wrong side of sleeve. >>>

7 Joining: Stitch shoulder darts on back panel. Pin front panels to back panel, right sides together, and stitch shoulder seams. Fold seam allowances toward front panel and topstitch seams. Pin and stitch sleeves to armholes, fold seam allowances toward body of garment and topstitch seams. Stitch sleeve underarm seams and side seams. Stitch narrow hem at garment s bottom edge. Turn and press seam allowance on one long edge of inner button band (= attachment edge) to wrong side. Pin outer and inner button bands right sides together and stitch their outer edges together. Press seams open. Pin and stitch outer button bands to front panels, right sides together. Fold and press seam allowances toward button bands. Fold button band halves right sides together and stitch their bottom-hem edges. Turn button bands right side out and pin and press them in position. Topstitch both edges of each button band, catching turned-under edge of inner button band in stitching. Collar: Pin collar pieces right sides together and stitch their ends and outer edges together. Trim corners, press seams open and turn collar right side out. Press collar flat and topstitch its edges. Machinebaste open edges of collar together. Turn and press seam allowance on bottom edge of inside collar-stand to wrong side and machine-baste along edge using presser-foot edge as guide. Pin collar between collar stand pieces (with inside collar stand and upper collar right sides together) and stitch edges of collar stand pieces together. Turn collar stand right side out. Pin and stitch bottom edge of outside collar stand to garment s neckline, right sides together. Turn all neckline seam allowances into collar stand, pin edge of inside collar stand to neckline carefully and stitch. Topstitch around collar stand close to edge. Sleeve cuffs: Turn and press seam allowance on straight edge of sleeve cuff to wrong side and machine-baste along edge using presser-foot edge as guide. Stitch inner and outer sleeve cuff right sides together. Trim seam allowances around rounded corners and press seams open. Turn cuff right side out. Fold pleat at sleeve edge as marked on pattern and machine-baste it in position. Pin and stitch outer sleeve cuff to sleeve edge right sides together. Turn seam allowances into cuff and pin edge of inner cuff to sleeve edge carefully. Topstitch attachment edge of cuff close to seamline from right side, catching edge of inner cuff in stitching. Topstitch around cuff. Finishing: Stitch buttonholes and sew buttons on collar stand and sleeve cuffs as marked on pattern. Stitch buttonholes and sew buttons on button bands, placing top buttonhole cm down from neckline seam and the rest at regular 7-8 cm intervals. 8. Patchwork long-sleeve jersey top Page cm cm viscose single jersey in three different print patterns as well as in solid-color brown-grey (CV/EL), stretch/ recovery 0% - 0 cm clear elastic tape, width mm, Framilon Preshrink the knits before starting by washing and pressing them. Trace patterns for front and back from pattern sheet as single pattern pieces and draw horizontal seamlines on them as indicated by pattern markings. Draw vertical seamlines on pattern pieces observing markings on smallscale patterns. Cut up jersey knits into rectangles of required height (measure height of each horizontal panel on pattern) and arrange rectangles side by side separately for each horizontal panel. Stitch rectangles of each horizontal panel together with serger. Stitch horizontal panels together with serger to form suitable pieces for ting out front and back panels and sleeves. Cut front and back panels and sleeves from assembled pieces. Do not add seam allowances to neckline. Cut also. cm wide binding strip for finishing neckline. If you use a binder attachment on your coverstitch machine to attach the binding, the binding strip in the width that fits the binder. with serger or with overedge stretch stitch on regular sewing machine. Stitch hems with serger coverstitch or with twin needle on regular sewing machine. See general instructions for finishing edges with binding on p.. Stabilizing shoulder seams: Cut pieces of clear elastic tape for shoulder seams. Measure required length on pattern and add seam allowances. Machine-baste clear elastic tapes to wrong side of shoulder seam allowances on back panel with straight stitch. Shoulder seams and neckline: Pin front and back panels right sides together and stitch left shoulder seam. Finish neckline with binding. Stitch right shoulder seam. Stitch shoulder seam allowances flat across width of neckline binding. Joining: Fold up and press hems at bottom edges of sleeves and stitch them with serger coverstitch. Stitch sleeves to armholes, right sides together. Stitch sleeve underarm seams and side seams. Stitch underarm seam allowances flat across sleeve-edge hems. Fold up, press and stitch bottom hem as marked on pattern. 7cm front back sleeve PATTERN SHEET B blue 9. Lady Fit denim or corduroy jeans Pages -, -7, -9 0cm 0 +A pants front back yoke +A pants back pocket corner piece pocket bag coin pocket 7 back pocket 8 fly facing 9 fly shield 0 waistband + PATTERN SHEET A red A A cm stretch corduroy or stretch denim (CO/EL), stretch/recovery 0% width -0 cm - cm cotton fabric for pocket bags and waistband facings - piece of contrast-color cotton fabric for finishing waistband - 0 cm interfacing, - jeans button, ø 0 mm - pants zipper, length 0 cm - eight jeans studs, ø 8 mm, Prym - matching and contrast-color topstitching thread, Epic n:o 80

8 9. Lady Fit Join pattern pieces +A and +A before ting. Cut waistband facings and pocket bags from cotton fabric and other garment pieces from corduroy as indicated on list of pattern pieces. Cut also. cm x 70 cm strip from corduroy for belt loops. Cut cm wide binding strip on the bias from contrast-color cotton fabric for finishing bottom edge of waistband facing (measure required length of binding on pattern piece and join strips if necessary). with straight stitch and finish them with serger or zigzag stitch. Topstitch seams and edges with matching topstitching thread unless otherwise instructed. Waistband facings: Cut interfacing for waistband facings and fuse it in place. Pin waistband facings right sides together and stitch center-back seam. Press seam open. Finish bottom edge of waistband facing with contrast-color bias binding as follows: Pin right side of binding to wrong side of waistband facing and stitch binding in place with 7 mm seam allowance. Fold binding over to right side of facing, turn seam allowance on its free edge under and stitch turned-under edge to facing close to edge. Front-hip pockets: Finish raw curved edges of pocket corner pieces. Pin corner pieces to pocket bags as marked on pattern, with both right side up, and stitch corner pieces in place close to edge. Stitch hem at opening edge of coin pocket as marked on pattern. Turn seam allowances on other edges of coin pocket to wrong side, pin pocket to right pocket bag as marked on pattern and topstitch it in place with two parallel rows of stitching (use contrast-color thread for inner row of double-topstitching). Pin and stitch pocket bag to pocket opening on pants front panel, right sides together. Understitch seam allowances to pocket bag. Edgestitch pocket opening. Stitch two parallel rows of topstitching at pocket opening, placing them mm below edgestitching and using contrastcolor thread. Pin pocket bag in position, right sides together, and stitch bottom of pocket. Machine-baste side edge of pocket to pants side seam allowance and its top edge to pants waist seam allowance. Back pockets: Finish raw opening edges of pockets and press hems at them as marked on pattern. Stitch decorative topstitching on pockets as marked on pattern, using contrast-color thread for the middle row of stitching. Note that top row of topstitching also secures hem at opening edge of pocket. Turn seam allowances on other pocket edges to wrong side, pin pocket to pants back panel as marked on pattern and topstitch it in place with two parallel rows of stitching (use contrast-color thread for inner row of double-topstitching). Joining: Stitch back yokes to pants backs right sides together, fold seam allowances toward pants back and topstitch seams with two parallel rows of stitching (use contrast-color thread for lower row of double-topstitching). Pin pants front and back panels right sides together and stitch leg inseams. Fold seam allowances toward pants back and topstitch seams with two parallel rows of stitching (use contrastcolor thread for outer row of doubletopstitching). Finish raw edges of crotch seam allowances. Stitch crotch seam from back waist to bottom of zipper placket. Fly-front zipper: Finish raw curved edge of fly facing. Pin and stitch fly facing to right placket edge. Understitch seam allowances to facing close to seamline. Fold fly facing and pants front wrong sides together and edgestitch along center-front edge. Fold fly shield piece in half, right sides together, and stitch its bottom edge. Turn fly shield right side out and serge or zigzag its open edges together. Pin and stitch left zipper tape to left edge of fly shield. Pin and stitch fly shield to left placket edge, right sides together and with zipper in between. Turn fly shield right way up and edgestitch seam close to zipper. Close zipper and pin fly in position from right side, matching center-front marks. Turn fly wrong side up and pin free zipper edge to fly facing only (not to pants front). Remove pins from right side, open zipper and stitch it to fly facing carefully. Close zipper, pin facing to pants front and topstitch fly, using pattern piece for fly facing as template (flip fly shield out of the way as you stitch). Topstitch crotch seam with two parallel rows of stitching (use contrast-color thread for outer row of double-topstitching). Stitch bar-tacks on fly as shown in design sketch. Side seams: Stitch side seams, fold seam allowances toward pants backs and topstitch seams with two parallel rows of stitching from waist down to bottom edge of front-hip pocket (use contrastcolor thread for outer row of doubletopstitching). Belt loops: Finish one raw long edge of belt loop strip, fold strip in three and stitch two parallel rows of topstitching in the middle of strip (use contrast-color thread for one of the rows). Cut strip into seven equal-length pieces. Pin and stitch one end of each belt loop to pants waist as shown in design sketch, right sides together. Waistline: Pin outer waistband pieces right sides together and stitch centerback seam. Press seam open. Pin outer waistband and waistband facing right sides together and stitch their top edges together. Understitch seam allowances to waistband facing. Pin and stitch outer waistband to pants waist, right sides together. Fold waistband right sides together and stitch its ends. Trim corners and turn ends of waistband right side out. Turn waistband up and pin bottom edge of waistband facing to pants waist. Topstitch around waistband close to edge from its right side, catching bottom edge of waistband facing in stitching. Stitch free ends of belt loops to top edge of waistband. Finishing: Fold up, press and stitch hems at bottom edges of legs as marked on pattern. Stitch buttonhole and sew button on waistband. Attach jeans studs to fronthip pocket openings, placing them close to side seams, as well as to top corners of coin pocket and back pockets as shown in design sketch. 0. Curvy Fit denim or corduroy jeans Pages -, -7, cm stretch corduroy or stretch denim (CO/EL), stretch/recovery 0%, width -0 cm - 0 cm cotton fabric for pocket bags and waistband facings - piece of contrast-color cotton fabric for finishing waistband - cm interfacing, - jeans button, ø 0 mm - pants zipper, length cm - eight jeans studs, ø 8 mm, Prym - matching and contrast-color topstitching thread, Epic n:o 80 0cm DESIGN SKETCH AND SMALL-SCALE PATTERNS See design no. 9. and Follow instructions for design no. 9. +A pants front back yoke +A pants back pocket corner piece pocket bag coin pocket 7 back pocket 8 fly facing 9 fly shield 0 waistband + PATTERN SHEET D green. Cool Grey jersey top Pages, cm viscose single jersey (CV/EL), stretch/recovery 0% - 0 cm clear elastic tape, width mm, Framilon Cut garment pieces from single jersey as indicated on list of pattern pieces. Do not add seam allowances to neckline. Cut also. cm wide binding strip for finishing neckline. If you use a binder attachment on your coverstitch machine to attach the binding, the binding strip in the width that fits the binder. Cut also cm x 9 cm strip from single jersey for trim on front. with serger or with overedge stretch stitch on regular sewing machine. Stitch hems with serger coverstitch or with twin needle on regular sewing machine. See general instructions for finishing edges with binding on p.. Stabilizing shoulder seams: Cut pieces of clear elastic tape for shoulder seams. Measure required length on pattern and add seam allowances. Machine-baste clear elastic tapes to wrong side of shoulder seam allowances on back panel with straight stitch. Front: Baste-mark center-front line on front panel for approx. cm down from neckline. Pin front and back panels right sides together and baste shoulder seams and side seams. Try garment on and pin decorative pleats on front panel as shown in design sketch. Remove basting stitches from shoulder and side seams. Check direction and depth of pleats and pin pleats carefully in position. Machinebaste pleats in position on each side of center-front line. >>>

9 . Cool Grey 7cm Turn 7 mm seam allowances on both long edges and bottom edge of trim piece to wrong side. Pin trim piece to front panel over pleats and stitch it in place close to edge (align top edge of trim piece with outer edge of neckline seam allowance and leave top edge open). Remove basting stitches marking center-front line. Shoulder seams and neckline: Pin front and back panels right sides together and stitch left shoulder seam. Finish neckline with binding. Stitch right shoulder seam. Stitch shoulder seam allowances flat across width of neckline binding. Stitch small dart at center-front point on neckline binding to create V-shaped neckline. Joining: Fold up and press hems at bottom edges of sleeves and stitch them with serger coverstitch. Stitch sleeves to armholes, right sides together. Stitch sleeve underarm seams and side seams. Stitch underarm seam allowances flat across sleeve-edge hems. Fold up, press and stitch bottom hem as marked on pattern. front back sleeve PATTERN SHEET B blue. Aztec velveteen skirt Pages 0- Velveteen cm printed velveteen (CO), width cm cm viscose lining fabric (CV), width 0 cm - cm coordinating printed cotton fabric - 0 cm interfacing, - invisible zipper, length 0 cm - 0 cm grosgrain ribbon, width mm, for hanging loops - button, ø mm Linig 0cm front back front facing back facing pocket piece pocket facing lining front lining back PATTERN SHEET C red Cut front and back panels as well as pocket pieces from velveteen as indicated on list of pattern pieces. Cut front and back facings as well as pocket facings from cotton fabric. Trace pattern pieces for lining front and back observing markings on small-scale patterns. Cut lining pieces from lining fabric. Cut lining front on fabric fold. Note that bottom hem of lining is along pattern lines marking bottom-hem foldlines of shell. with straight stitch. Finish seam allowances on shell with serger or zigzag stitch and press seams open. Note that the order of construction of this skirt is slightly different from the usual as the side seams of the shell and lining are stitched last. Preparation: Cut interfacing for front and back facings and fuse it in place. Cut grosgrain ribbon in half. Fold each piece of ribbon in half and machine-baste ribbons for hanging loops to side seamlines on front facing, placing them approx. cm down from waist edge. Front-hip pockets: Pin and stitch pocket facing to pocket opening on front panel, right sides together. Understitch seam allowances to pocket facing. Clip seam allowances along curves. Pin pocket piece to pocket facing, right sides together, and stitch bottom of pocket. Pin top edges of pocket piece and pocket facing together. Fold front panel over pocket piece right sides together and stitch pocket to front panel through all layers for approx. cm, starting from waist edge, by stitching-inthe-ditch along seamline at pocket opening. Turn pocket right way up and machinebaste its top edge to waist seam allowance and its side edge to side seam allowance on front panel. Joining shell: Stitch waist darts on shell front and back panels. Pin front panels right sides together and stitch centerfront seam. Finish seam allowances together and press seam open. Finish raw centerback edges. Stitch center-back seam from notch for zipper placket down to bottom hem and press seam open. Open zipper. Pin one zipper tape to center-back edge of shell, right sides together, and stitch it in place using invisible zipper foot. Stitch the other zipper tape in place in the same way. Try-on fitting: Baste side seams of shell and try shell on. Make necessary alterations both to shell and lining pieces. Note! If you alter the depth of the darts, make the same alterations also to the pattern pieces for facings. Remove basting stitches from side seams as side seams will be stitched later. Joining lining: Stitch front and back facings to lining front and back panels. Finish seam allowances together and press them toward lining. Finish raw center-back edges of lining. Pin and stitch one zipperplacket edge of lining to placket edge of shell, right sides together and with zipper in between, placing stitching mm away from stitching that attaches zipper. Stitch the other zipper-placket edge of lining to shell in the same way. Note that you can end stitching on zipper placket of lining slightly above bottom of placket to provide ease for movement. Stitch center-back seam of lining from bottom of zipper placket down to bottom hem. Joining shell and lining: Pin front panels of shell and lining right sides together and stitch waist seam. Understitch waist seam allowances to lining (i.e. facing). Open zipper. Pin back panels of shell and lining right sides together, fold all seam allowances on edges of zipper placket onto lining and facing and stitch waist seam. Understitch waist seam allowances to lining (i.e. facing) as far toward centerback seam as you can reach. Turn back panels right side out. Finish side seam allowances on both front and back panels. Pin skirt front and back right sides together and stitch side seams, starting stitching from bottom hem of shell and ending at bottom hem of lining. Press side seams open. Stitch hem ( cm + cm) at bottom edge of lining. Finish raw bottom-hem edge of shell. Fold up, press and stitch bottom hem of shell as marked on pattern. Finishing: Turn skirt right side out. Pin and steam waist edge in position. Push your hand between shell and lining, pin seam allowances on bottom edge of facing to seam allowances of shell at centerfront, side seams and pocket openings and secure shell and lining together at these points with a few hand-stitches. Sew button at top end of zipper placket on lining side. Make a small button loop by hand.

10 . Stormy Blue jersey top Page 7cm cm viscose single jersey (CV/EL), stretch/ recovery 0% - 0 cm clear elastic tape, width mm, Framilon Cut garment pieces from single jersey as indicated on list of pattern pieces. Do not add seam allowances to neckline. Cut also. cm wide binding strip for finishing neckline. If you use a binder attachment on your coverstitch machine to attach the binding, the binding strip in the width that fits the binder. with serger or with overedge stretch stitch on regular sewing machine. Stitch hems with serger coverstitch or with twin needle on regular sewing machine. See general instructions for finishing edges with binding on p.. Stabilizing shoulder seams: Cut pieces of clear elastic tape for shoulder seams. Measure required length on pattern and add seam allowances. Machine-baste clear elastic tapes to wrong side of shoulder seam allowances on back panel with straight stitch. Gathering neckline: Cut cm piece from clear elastic tape. Gather front neckline by stitching piece of clear elastic tape to its right side between notches, stretching tape slightly as you sew. Shoulder seams and neckline: Pin front and back panels right sides together and stitch left shoulder seam. Finish neckline with binding. Stitch right shoulder seam. Stitch shoulder seam allowances flat across width of neckline binding. Joining: Fold up and press hems at bottom edges of sleeves and stitch them with serger coverstitch. Stitch sleeves to armholes, right sides together. Stitch sleeve underarm seams and side seams. Stitch underarm seam allowances flat across sleeve-edge hems. Fold up, press and stitch bottom hem as marked on pattern. front back sleeve PATTERN SHEET B blue. Misty Monday blouse Pages, 0- cm cm cotton chambray(co) - 0 cm interfacing, Vlieseline H 80 - seven buttons, ø mm front back sleeve shaped facing for front shaped facing for back button band PATTERN SHEET C blue Cut garment pieces from fabric as indicated on list of pattern pieces. Cut also two. cm x cm strips on the grain for sleeve-edge trims. with straight stitch and finish them with serger or zigzag stitch. Sew topstitching using presser-foot edge as guide unless otherwise instructed. Preparation: Cut interfacing for shaped facings and button bands and fuse it in place (see areas shaded in grey on smallscale patterns). Finish raw outer edges of shaped facings. Stitch darts on front and back panels as marked on pattern. Pin tucks on front panel: Fold each front panel wrong sides together along each marked tuck foldline and press tuck folds. Stitch tucks mm away from pressed tuck fold. Secure thread ends carefully. Pres tucks toward armholes and machine-baste them in position along neckline seam allowance. Neckline: Pin bodice front and back panels right sides together and stitch shoulder seams. Finish seam allowances together and press them toward back panel. Pin shaped facings right sides together, stitch their shoulder seams and press seams open. Pin shaped facing to neckline, right sides together, and stitch neckline seam. Clip seam allowances to stitching at front neckline corners. Clip neckline seam allowances along curves at back. Understitch neckline seam allowances to shaped facing close to seamline. Turn shaped facing to wrong side and press neck edge gently. Machine-baste ends of shaped facing to garment s front edges. Secure outer edge of shaped facing to shoulder seam allowances with a few hand stitches. Sleeve edges: Follow instructions for design no.. Joining: Finish side seam allowances and stitch side seams from armholes to top ends of side vents. Press side seams open. Fold and stitch narrow hems at edges of vents. Stitch rows of reinforcing stitching at top ends of vents. Fold up, press and stitch bottom hems on front and back panels and as marked on pattern. Sew rows ease-stitching along sleeve caps as marked on pattern, pull up bobbin threads gently and steam sleeve caps to shape them. Stitch underarm seams of sleeves. Pin and stitch sleeves to armholes, right sides together. Stitch underarm seam allowances flat across sleeve-edge trims. Button bands: Finish raw non-interfaced edges of button bands and stitch mm wide hems at them. Press folds on button bands as marked on pattern. Pin and stitch interfaced edges of button bands to front panels, right sides together. Fold seam allowances toward button bands and topstitch seams. Fold button bands in half lengthwise, right sides together, and stitch their neckline and bottom edges. Trim corners and turn button bands right side out. Pin inside halves of button bands to front edges and stitch them in place from right side of garment for a few centimeters up from bottom hem and a few centimeters down from neck edge by stitching-in-the-ditch along seamline that attaches outer half of button band to garment. Topstitch outer edges of button bands and neckline with continuous row of stitching, starting from bottom hem on left side and ending at bottom hem on right side. Stitch buttonholes on right button band and sew buttons on left button band as marked on pattern. Note! The pattern also includes contour darts. Stitch the darts if you wish to make the blouse more close-fitting.

11 . City Cardi zippered cardigan Page cm textured pattern knit (00% WV), width cm, weight g/m - 90 cm stay tape, Vlieseline Formband - metal zipper, length 80 cm cm velvet ribbon, width 0 mm, for finishing neckline Join pattern pieces + A and + A before ting. Cut garment pieces from knit as indicated on list of pattern pieces. with straight stitch. Finish seam allowances together with serger or zigzag stitch. If your knit is bulky, finish seam allowances separately and press seams open. Stitch flatlock stitching on hems and pockets with flatlock stitch on serger or with decorative overedge stitch on regular sewing machine (e.g. honeycomb stitch). Pockets: Follow instructions for design no.. Joining: Pin sleeves to front and back panels right sides together and stitch raglan seams. Stitch sleeve underarm seams and side seams. Fold up, pin and steam sleeve-edge and bottom-edge hems and stitch them with flatlock stitch. Collar: Fold, pin and steam hem at top edge of collar and stitch it with flatlock stitch. Pin and stitch collar to neckline, right sides together. Finishing neckline: Measure length of neckline on pattern pieces (= neck edges on front and back panels and on sleeves + seam allowances) and required length of velvet ribbon for neckline. Mark center-back and shoulder points on ribbon. Pin ribbon over neckline seam allowance on collar side and stitch its one edge close to neckline stitching line (ribbon is only stitched to seam allowances at this stage). Trim neckline seam allowances if necessary. Pin the other edge of ribbon over neckline seam, concealing seam allowances, and stitch it in place through all layers. Zipper: Cut pieces of stay tape for center-front edges of front panels and collar (measure required length of tape on pattern pieces) and fuse tapes to wrong side of center-front seam allowances. Finish raw front edges by serging or zigzagging. Open zipper. Pin and stitch one zipper half to left front panel right sides together, with outer edge of zipper tape covering finished edge of front panel. Fold top end of zipper tape over collar edge to wrong side, turn zipper right way up and pin it in place carefully. Pin the other zipper half to right front panel in the same way. Close zipper and check that the pattern of the knit is matched across the front. Stitch right zipper half in place in the same way as the left one. Topstitch front edges using presser-foot edge as guide and catching front-edge seam allowances in stitching (on wrong side, stitching line should run along outer edge of zipper tape). Note! Check the fabric requirement if your knit requires that the pattern of the knit be matched at the side seams. A A +A front +A back sleeve pocket collar PATTERN SHEET C black 80cm. Concerto jacquard dress Pages, 0-98cm - 0 cm jacquard-patterned cotton-blend fabric (CO/PES), fabric width 0 cm, vertical repeat 0 cm - 00 cm viscose lining fabric (CV), width 0 cm - 0 cm interfacing, - invisible zipper, length 0 cm Join pattern pieces + A and + A before ting. Shell: Cut front and back panels from jacquard fabric as indicated on list of pattern pieces. Align dashed lines on pattern, drawn above waistline, with horizontal yellow stripe on fabric. Lining: Trace pattern pieces for lining front and back panels, observing markings on small-scale patterns. Cut shaped facings from jacquard fabric and front and back panels from lining fabric as indicated on list of pattern pieces. Note that bottom hem of lining is along pattern lines marking bottom-hem foldlines of shell. with straight stitch. Finish seam allowances with serger or zigzag stitch. Seam finish is not necessary on shoulder, neckline and armhole seams as the garment is fully lined. Stabilizing: Cut interfacing for neck edges of shell front and back panels and for shaped facings and fuse it in place (see areas shaded in grey on small-scale patterns). Darts: Stitch bust darts on shell and lining front panels. The pattern piece for the front also includes contour darts. If you wish to make the front of the dress more close-fitting, stitch the contour darts on both shell and lining front panels. Stitch shoulder darts on shell back panels. Stitch contour darts on shell and lining back panels. Joining: Stitch shoulder seams of shell. Clip seam allowances along curves and press seams open. Finish raw center-back edges of shell. Pin and stitch shaped facings to lining front and back panels, right sides together. Press seam allowances toward lining panels. Stitch shoulder seams of lining. Clip seam allowances along curves and press seams open. Finish raw center-back edges of lining. Joining shell and lining: Pin shell and lining right sides together and stitch their armholes together. Clip seam allowances along curves. Understitch armhole seam allowances to lining close to seamline. Pin necklines together and stitch neckline seam, starting and ending stitching approx. cm away from center-back seamline. Turn garment right side out by pushing back panels between shoulders of shell and lining toward front panel. Stitch center-back seam of shell from notch for zipper placket down to bottom hem and press seam open. Open zipper. Stitch one zipper tape to center-back edge of shell, right sides together and using invisible zipper foot. Stitch the other zipper tape to shell in the same way. Pin and stitch left center-back edge of lining to left edge of zipper placket on shell, right sides together and with zipper in between. Place stitching mm away from stitching line that attaches zipper. Stitch the other zipper-placket edge of lining to shell in the same way. Note that you can end stitching on zipper placket of lining slightly above bottom of placket to provide ease for movement. Stitch center-back seam of lining from bottom of zipper placket down to bottom hem. >>> A A Jacquard fabric + A front + A back shaped facing for front shaped facing for back Lining fabric + A front + A back PATTERN SHEET D black

12 Fold all center-back seam allowances toward shaped facing at neckline corners and stitch rest of neckline seam. Understitch neckline seam allowances to shaped facing, stitching as far toward center-back seam as you can reach. Turn neckline corners right side out. Press neckline and armholes flat gently. Pin and stitch side seams, starting stitching from bottom hem of shell and ending at bottom hem of lining. Finish edges of side seam allowances and press seams open. Push your hand between shell and lining, pin shoulder seam allowances of shell and lining together halfway between neckline and armhole and secure them together with a few hand-stitches. Secure also side seam allowances of shell and lining together approx. cm below armholes. Finishing: Stitch hem ( cm + cm) at bottom edge of lining. Fold up and press bottom hem of shell as marked on pattern and stitch it by hand with blind hemmingstitch. 7. Andante long special-occasion dress Pages - 8cm Shell fabric +A+B front side front panel +A+B back side back panel front facing back facing Lining fabric +A+B front side front panel +A+B back side back panel PATTERN SHEET D red A B A B cm well-draping polyester crepe with a slight sheen (PES), width cm cm viscose lining fabric (CV), width 0 cm cm interfacing, - invisible zipper, length 0 cm - two buttons, ø 0 mm, covered with fashion fabric - spool of elastic thread (suitable for bobbin thread) cm iron-on hemming tape, width 8 mm, for securing garment s bottom hem - 80 cm satin ribbon, width mm, for hanging loops ABOUT PATTERN Make a toile (test garment) of the bodice part of the dress for checking the pattern fit and measurements. Make the necessary alterations to the pattern pieces before ting the garment pieces out. Join pattern pieces +A+B and +A+ B before ting. Trace pattern pieces for lining observing markings on smallscale patterns. Cut garment pieces from shell fabric and lining fabric as indicated on list of pattern pieces. Cut lining front and back panels cm shorter than shell panels. Take care to the garment pieces out with even seam allowances, in order to make the sewing process easier. with straight stitch and finish them with serger or zigzag stitch. Seam finish is not necessary on the bodice part of the dress (seam allowances at neckline, armholes etc.) as the garment is fully lined. Stabilizing: Cut interfacing for areas shaded in grey on small-scale patterns and fuse it in place. Fuse interfacing to the garment pieces carefully, ironing each interfaced area twice over and allowing the garment pieces to dry in between. Experiment with applying interfacing on a scrap of fabric before starting! Joining shell: Sew gathering stitches along horizontal panel-seam edges at hips of front and back panels and gather edges to fit side front and back panels. Pin and stitch side front panels to front panels as follows: Stitch horizontal seam first, clip to stitching at corner and then stitch vertical seam. Press seam allowances on horizontal seam toward side front panel and seam allowances on vertical seam toward front panel. Stitch side back panels to back panels in the same way. Neckline, armholes and shoulder seams: Pin front facing to front panel right sides together and stitch neckline seam. Clip seam allowances along curves (clip seam allowances on facing and front panel at different points in order to avoid ending up with a jagged neckline) and understitch neckline seam allowances to facing close to seamline. Pin and stitch back facings to back panels in the same way as follows: First stitch, clip and understitch neck edges from shoulder to center-back edge. Then stitch, clip and understitch edges of circular opening on back panel, starting stitching at its top edge and ending it at its bottom edge approx. cm before center-back edge. Finally stitch center-back edge between neckline and opening; fold seam allowances at neckline and top edge of opening toward facing in order to produce neat corners. Turn necklines right side out. Press edges of neckline and opening gently. Pin armholes of front panel and front facing right sides together and stitch armhole seams from side seams toward shoulders, ending stitching approx. cm before shoulder seam. Clip seam allowances along curves and understitch them to facing close to seamline. Stitch back facings to armholes of back panels in the same way and understitch seam allowances to facing. Press armholes gently. Pin front and back panels right sides together and stitch shoulder seams. Press seams open. Push your hand between front panel and front facing and pull shoulder seam out. Stitch open portion of armhole seam. Press armholes. Joining lining: Sew gathering stitches along horizontal panel-seam edges at hips of front and back panels and gather edges to fit side front and back panels. Pin and stitch side front and back panels to front and back panels in the same way as on shell. Pin and stitch lining front panel to front facing, right sides together. Pin and stitch lining back panels to back facings in the same way. Press seam allowances toward facings. Zipper: Open zipper. Stitch one zipper tape to center-back edge of shell, right sides together and using invisible zipper foot. Stitch the other zipper tape in place in the same way. Stitch center-back seam of shell from notch for zipper placket down to bottom hem and finish seam allowances together. Pin and stitch left center-back edge of lining to left edge of zipper placket on shell, right sides together and with zipper in between. Place stitching mm away from stitching line that attaches zipper. Stitch the other zipper-placket edge of lining to shell in the same way. Note that you can end stitching on zipper placket of lining slightly above bottom of placket to provide ease for movement. Stitch center-back seam of lining from notch for zipper placket down to bottom hem and finish seam allowances together. Stitch open portion of bottom edge of opening on back panel (fold all centerback seam allowances toward facing at top corners of zipper placket). Turn corners of zipper placket right side out and press placket gently. Side seams: Cut satin ribbon in half. Fold each piece of ribbon in half and machine-baste ribbons for hanging loops to side seam allowances on front facing, placing them approx. cm down from armhole seams. Pin and stitch side seams, starting stitching from bottom hem of shell and ending at bottom hem of lining. Finish side seam allowances together and press them toward back panel. Secure side seam allowances of shell and lining together at notches for waistline on wrong side of garment with French tacks sewn by hand. Hem and elasticized gathering: Try garment on and trim bottom hem of shell so that it touches the floor. Trim bottom hem of lining approx. cm shorter than shell. Finish raw bottom edge of shell, fold up and press narrow hem at it and secure hem with iron-on hemming tape. Stitch narrow hem at bottom edge of lining. Measure -0 cm up from bottom-hem edge of both shell and lining and bastemark placement line for elasticized gathering on shell and lining. Wind sewing machine bobbin with elastic thread by hand, stretching thread slightly. Increase stitch length and decrease needle and bobbin thread tension. Experiment with stitching on a scrap of fabric before starting. Stitch top row of elasticized gathering on shell along basted placement line from right side of shell. Try garment on and check the amount of gathering. Note that the gathered area will shrink when it is steamed gently. If the stitching is too tight, increase stitch length and decrease bobbin thread tension. Stitch another two rows of gathering below the first one, spacing them mm apart. Stitch two rows of gathering on lining in the same way. Steam gathered area. Finishing: Stitch buttonholes and sew buttons on back panels as marked on pattern.

13 8. Perfect Autumn between-seasons coat from boiled wool Pages, 99cm cm front side front panel back upper sleeve under sleeve hood 7 pocket piece + PATTERN SHEET D blue cm 7 0cm 0cm 0cm cm boiled wool or similar lightly-felted non-fray bouclé-textured wool knit (WV), width 0 cm - two invisible zippers for pockets, length cm - cm velvet ribbon for finishing neckline and for hanging loop - 0 cm stay tape, Vlieseline Formband cm narrow satin ribbon, width mm, for stabilizing armholes - topstitching thread, Epic no kilt pin for closure ABOUT PATTERN Draw cm wide hem allowances on pattern pieces along front edge of front panel and along face edge of hood, observing markings on small-scale patterns. Lengthen pattern pieces for front, side front panel and back by 0 cm (see small-scale patterns). Cut garment pieces from boiled wool as indicated on list of pattern pieces; add cm seam allowances to all edges. Use sharp scissors or rotary ter for ting to make sure that edges of seam allowances turn out neat. Construction techniques: Use heavyduty topstitching thread as construction thread. Stitch seams with straight stitch. Steam seams to be pressed open through damp ironing cloth. Trim those seam allowances that are to be trimmed after sewing seams to width of mm (more detailed instructions are given in conjunction with each seam). No seam finish is necessary as boiled wool will not fray. Stabilizing: Cut pieces of stay tape for shoulder edges on back panel (measure required length of tape on pattern piece and add seam allowances). Fuse tapes to wrong side of shoulder seam allowances. Pockets: Pin front panels to side front panels right sides together and stitch seams from armhole to top end of pocket opening and from bottom end of pocket opening down to bottom hem. Press seams open. Stitch zippers to pocket openings, right sides together, using zipper foot; leave cm unstitched at bottom end of zipper. Stitch pocket pieces to pocket opening, with zipper in between and placing stitching mm away from stitching line that attaches zipper. Stitch outer edges of pocket pieces together and trim seam allowances to width of mm. Stitch short rows of reinforcing stitching across each end of pocket opening, working from right side. Attach outer edges of pocket bags to wrong side of front panels by hand with blind hemming-stitch. Joining: Stitch center-back seam and press it open. Stitch shoulder seams and side seams and press seams open. Stitch upper sleeves and under sleeves together, press seams open and trim seam allowances for approx. cm up from bottom edges of sleeves. Sew rows ease-stitching along sleeve caps as marked on pattern and pull up bobbin threads to shape sleeve caps. Cut pieces of satin ribbon for stabilizing armholes (measure required length on pattern pieces and add seam allowances). Machine-baste satin ribbons to wrong side of armholes, placing them cm away from outer edge of seam allowance. Pin and stitch sleeves to armholes, placing stitching over satin ribbon. Hood: Fold hood panel right sides together and stitch back seam of hood. Trim seam allowances. Fold pleats at neckline edge of hood as marked on pattern and machine-baste them in position. Pin and stitch hood to neckline, right sides together. Trim neckline seam allowances. Cut 0 cm piece from velvet ribbon for hanging loop. Machine-baste ends of ribbon to back neckline, on each side of centerback seam. Cut piece of velvet ribbon for finishing back neckline (measure required length on pattern and add seam allowances). Pin velvet ribbon over back-neckline seam allowances and stitch it in place along both edges. Ribbon will prevent the neckline from stretching when the coat is worn. Front edges and hemline: Fold and steam hems at garment s front edges and bottom edge as marked on pattern. Fold front-edge hem allowances to right side of front panels and stitch their bottom edges along garment s bottom-hem foldline. Turn bottom-hem corners right side out. Pin front-edge and bottom-edge hems in position and stitch them close to outer edge of hem allowance. 9. Luxurious Flowers winter coat Pages -7 79cm cm ready-quilted fabric, with lightweight upper layer that has been embroidered to polyester batting (PES), width 0 cm cm lining fabric (CV or PES), width 0 cm - separating zipper, length 0 cm - two invisible zippers for pockets, length cm - three snap fasteners, ø 0 mm, Prym Quilted fabric front right front panel left front panel + side front panel front facing back upper sleeve under sleeve hood Lining fabric front side front panel back upper sleeve under sleeve 7 pocket piece + PATTERN SHEET D blue

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