6/2013 Winter INSTRUCTIONS

Transcription

1 /0 Winter INSTRUCTIONS Please read the following general instructions before starting your project. How to choose the correct size Children s pattern sizes are primarily chosen according to the child s height, and the pattern measurements are then adjusted to correspond to the child s other body measurements. Adults sizes are chosen either according to the bust/chest measurement (e.g. blouses, jackets, coats) or the hip measurement (trousers, skirts). Take the measurements on top of thin underwear and compare them with the size chart. You will find detailed instructions for taking measurements on the next page. How to find the pattern pieces on the pattern sheet An overview of numbered, small-scale pattern pieces and a list of pattern pieces can be found next to the sewing instructions for each design. The appropriate pattern sheet is also stated. On the bottom edge of the pattern sheet, find the number with the correct color for the desired pattern piece and move your finger upward on the sheet until you locate the same number. Trace the pattern on tissue paper, including all the necessary markings (e.g. grainlines, notches, pocket placements). The markings are also visible on the small-scale patterns next to the instructions. Make all adjustments to the pattern before ting out the garment pieces. Patterns The patterns include hem allowances, button extensions and facings. When ting out the garment pieces, add seam allowances of approx. cm (depending on the fabric) to each edge of the pattern. The position for the first or top buttonhole is marked on the pattern. On blouses and shirts the top buttonhole on the front is approx. cm from the neck seamline and the bottom buttonhole approx. 0 cm from the hemline. The rest of the buttonholes should be placed at regular intervals ( 9 cm) between these points. For reasons of clarity, some of the pattern markings (e.g. positions for Velcro tapes and buttons) have only been printed on the smallest-size pattern of the design. Copy these on the pattern size of your choice in the corresponding places, measuring the distance from the pattern edge. Large pattern pieces are printed on the pattern sheet in two parts. Combine parts A and B before ting out the fabric. Cutting Lay out the pattern pieces on a double layer of fabric observing the grainlines and foldlines. Draw the seam allowances on the fabric with tailor s chalk. If you only need to a piece out once, observe the pattern markings and either on a fold (e.g. back, collar) or from a single layer of fabric (e.g. pocket). The measurements for garment pieces listed under the heading Cut also these pieces (e.g. belt loops, belts) already include seam allowances. When ting out the garment, include allowances for fitting adjustments if necessary. Each design includes specific and detailed ting instructions. Garment sections to be interfaced are shaded in grey in the overview of small-scale pattern pieces. Knitted and woven interfacings are on the grain, while non-woven interfacings may be in any direction as they do not have a grain. Interfacing pieces are generally adding the same amount of seam allowance (approx. cm) as on pieces from fashion fabric. However, a smaller seam allowance may be used on interfacings for heavy-weight fabrics. Materials Fabric requirements are based on a fabric width of 0 cm. Preshrink the fabric before ting either by pre-washing or by steam pressing. If you choose a different fabric from the one suggested in the magazine, allow for matching up patterns and for ting with nap when calculating the fabric requirement. Choose the interfacing on the basis of the fashion fabric s color, quality, weight and care instructions. Since the quality and stretch of elastics vary, check the elastic lengths before sewing. If a zipper is not available in a desired length, buy a longer zipper and shorten it as shown in the illustration on pattern sheet D. Sewing Read through the instructions before you start sewing. If you wish, baste and try on the garment before sewing. To make sewing easier, the instructions have been written on the basis of industrial working methods. The terms inner / outer and left / right refer to the garment when worn. Finish off the construction seams of the garment as you sew, even if the instructions do not specifically mention this. To finish off seams you can either use a serger or a machine zigzag stitch. On knit fabrics, stitch the seams using a machine stretch-stitch or a serger. No separate seam finish is necessary. Seams inside a lined garment do not necessarily have to be finished. Hems (e.g. at the garment s lower edge or sleeve edges) are made by turning under the seam allowance and topstitching close to the edge. The width of the hem and the seam allowance is given in brackets; for example sew hem ( cm + cm) means that the hem allowance is cm and the seam allowance cm. Iron the garment seams as you sew and give the garment a final pressing when it is completed. Practical tips Gathering: Decrease the upper thread tension and increase the stitch length (stitch length...). Sew two rows of gathering stitches 0. cm apart from each other on the right side of the edge to be gathered, placing one row on the seamline and the other within the seam allowance. Leave long thread ends. Gather the fabric by pulling simultaneously on both bobbin threads and spreading the gathers between your fingers evenly over the required length. The gathered edge is stitched in place between the gathering stitches using a regular straight stitch. Easing: Easing stitches are sewn as gathering stitches but the bobbin threads are pulled just enough to make the edge curve slightly (e.g. in set-in sleeve caps). Garments lined with knit When the lining fabric is a knit and the fashion fabric a woven, the lining out with considerably narrower seam allowances to keep the lining from showing under the fashion fabric. The designs, patterns, instructions, photos and articles in this magazine are protected under international copyright laws. Professional, industrial and commercial use of the material and manufacture under license is only possible under a written agreement with the copyright holder. For further information, contact us in writing, address: Studio Tuumat Oy, PL, FIN-90 Rovaniemi, Finland. OTTOBRE design or Studio Tuumat Oy has no obligation to compensate for possible financial losses resulting from misprints or other errors on the pattern sheet or in the instructions. Copyright Studio Tuumat Oy, Rovaniemi, Finland

2 MEASURING THE CHILD For taking the measurements, you ll need a tape measure and a length of firm tape that is placed round the waist. You can sew a waist tape for this purpose of a strip of cotton folded in four (finished width. cm). Place the tape horizontally round the child s waist and secure with a safety pin. The child should stand upright with a relaxed posture with arms hanging free at the sides. The measurements are taken on top of underwear (briefs and a lightweight undershirt) close to the body, yet not too tight. It is advisable to take the measurements in front of a mirror so that you can see the position of the tape measure behind the child. Height of the child: With the child standing up with the back and heels against a wall, mark the height at the top of the head on the wall using a straight angle (e.g. a book). The height of the child is the distance measured from the floor to the marking. Chest measurement: Horizontal measurement round the body with the tape measure running over the chest and shoulder blades. Waist measurement: Measurement round the waist without the waist tape. Hip measurement: Horizontal measurement round the seat (the fullest part of the bottom). Outseam length: Distance from the waist to the floor measured from the lower edge of the waist tape. Inseam length: Distance from the crotch to the floor when the child is standing legs slightly apart with the weight evenly on both feet. Shoulder width: Distance from the base of the neck to the top of the arm. Sleeve length: Distance from the top of the arm to the wrist measured over the elbow with the arm slightly bent. Back waist length: Distance from the most prominent vertebra at the base of the neck to the lower edge of the waist tape. SIZE CHARTS BABIES 0-9 cm Height cm Chest measurement Waist measurement Hip measurement 7 8. Sleeve length Inseam length TODDLERS 9- cm GIRLS AND BOYS Height cm Chest measurement 8 0. Waist measurement 7 8. Hip measurement Back waist length Sleeve length 8 0. Outseam length Shoulder width GIRLS 8-70 cm Height cm Bust measurement Waist measurement Hip measurement Back waist length Sleeve length Outseam length Shoulder width BOYS 8-70 cm Height cm Chest measurement Waist measurement The measurements in the chart are taken on the body. The patterns include the necessary allowances for ease of movement.. Hip measurement Back waist length Sleeve length Outseam length Shoulder width You can find these charts with measurements in inches on page 7.

3 . Warmly Wrapped bodysuit cm Pages - right front panel left front panel back sleeve PATTERN SHEET A red cm cotton single jersey (CO/EL), -... cm solid-color ribbing (CO/EL) or interlock knit (CO) - piece of interfacing - piece of double-sided fusible web, Vlieseline Vliesofix - nine small snap fasteners, ø 8 mm, Prym Mini Cut garment pieces from single jersey as indicated on list of pattern pieces, placing center-back edge on fabric fold. Add 8 mm seam allowances to following edges: side seam edges both on front and back panels, raglan seam edges and sleeve underarm edges. Do not add seam allowances to other edges as they will be finished with binding. Cut. cm wide binding strips from ribbing or interlock knit for finishing edges. If you use a binder attachment on your coverstitch machine to attach the bindings, the binding strips as continuous strips in the width that fits the binder. stitch on regular sewing machine. See general instructions for finishing edges with binding on p.. Stabilizing: Cut approx. cm wide strips from interfacing for crotch edges of front and back panels and for front edges of front panels for stabilizing snap areas (see areas shaded in grey on small-scale patterns). Stabilizing snap areas close to side seams on front panels: Draw six circles, each measuring mm in diameter, on paper backing of double-sided fusible web. Iron fusible web onto wrong side of a scrap of single jersey and circles out along their outlines. Iron circles onto wrong side of front panels as marked on pattern. Joining: Pin sleeves to front and back panels and stitch raglan seams. Finish bottom edges of sleeves and bottom edge of back panel with binding. Finish front edges and neckline with binding, stretching binding slightly along neckline and edges of leg openings and keeping it as unstretched as possible at front and crotch edges. Stitch sleeve underarm seams and side seams. Fold underarm and side seam allowances to one side and stitch them flat across bindings at bottom edges of sleeves and edges of leg openings. Snap fasteners: Attach three socket halves of snap fasteners to crotch edge of back panel as marked on pattern. Attach stud halves to crotch edge of right front panel. Attach socket halves of snap fasteners to right front panel as follows: three snaps to front edge and three snaps close to side seam. Attach stud halves of snap fasteners to left front panel. Tip! Instead of using a snap closure on the left front edge, you can stitch pieces of narrow twill tape for ties to the left front edge and close to the right side seam.. Giant Triangle pants cm Pages - bonnet hat, head circumference cm Pants pants front pants back bottom-leg cuff Bonnet hat side panel center panel PATTERN SHEET A orange cm printed stretch sweatshirt knit or cotton single jersey (CO/EL), - cm ribbing (CO/EL) for pants and bonnet (7 cm for bonnet only) - 0 cm elastic, width cm, for pants Pants: Cut pants fronts and backs from sweatshirt knit and bottom-leg cuffs from ribbing as indicated on list of pattern pieces, adding 8-0 mm seam allowances to all edges. Bonnet hat: Cut bonnet pieces from sweatshirt knit as indicated on list of pattern pieces, adding 8 mm seam allowances to edges of crown seams. Cut. cm wide strip from ribbing for finishing outer edge of bonnet and also 0 cm strip from ribbing in the same width for ties. If you use a binder attachment on your coverstitch machine to attach the binding, the binding strip in the width that fits the binder. Construction techniques Pants: Stitch seams with serger or with overedge stretch stitch on regular sewing machine. Bonnet hat: Stitch flatlock stitching on seams and ties with flatlock stitch on serger or with decorative overedge stitch on regular sewing machine (e.g. honeycomb stitch). See general instructions for finishing edges with binding on p.. Pants, joining: Place pants fronts and backs right sides together and stitch leg inseams. Stitch crotch seam. Stitch side seams. Leave pants inside out. Stitch side edges of each bottom-leg cuff right sides together to form circles. Fold cuffs in half, wrong sides together. Place cuffs inside pants legs, right sides together. Stitch cuffs to bottom edges of legs, stretching them slightly as you sew. Turn pants right side out. Fold, press and stitch casing at waist as marked on pattern, leaving small opening for inserting elastic. Measure and adjust elastic to fit child s waist (length of elastic = child s waist minus cm). Insert elastic into casing and stitch its ends together. Sew opening closed. Bonnet hat, joining: Fold tie strip in three and stitch in the middle of strip with flatlock stitch (if you use a coverstitch machine, pass the strip through the binder attachment and stitch). Cut two 0 cm pieces from strip. Fold narrow hem at one end of each strip and stitch hems with straight stitch. Trim excess fabric off close to stitching. Machine-baste ties to wrong side of bonnet side panels as marked on pattern. Pin side panels to center panel right sides together and stitch crown seams with straight stitch. Press crown seams open and trim seam allowances to approx. mm. Topstitch crown seams with flatlock stitch. Finish outer edge of bonnet with binding. Start applying binding at center-back mark, work your way around, and when you return to center-back mark, turn binding away from edge of bonnet and leave a little extra at its end. Wrap end of binding tightly to wrong side of bonnet, stitch it in place along stitching line that attaches binding and trim excess binding off close to stitching. Fold ties in position and stitch them to outer edge of binding.

4 . Indian Elephant coverall cm Pages 8- front back sleeve crotch gusset sleeve cuff bottom-leg cuff PATTERN SHEET A black cm printed cotton single jersey (CO/EL), - 0 cm ribbing (CO/EL) - piece of interfacing - or open-ring snap fasteners, ø 0 mm Cut sleeve cuffs and bottom-leg cuffs from ribbing and other garment pieces from cotton single jersey as indicated on list of pattern pieces. Add 8 mm seam allowances to all edges except neckline. Cut also. cm wide binding strips from ribbing for finishing neckline and leg inseam edges on both front and back. If you use a binder attachment on your coverstitch machine to attach the bindings, the binding strips in the width that fits the binder. Construction techniques: Stitch sleeve underarm seams and side seams with serger or with overedge stretch stitch on regular sewing machine. Stitch flatlock stitching with flatlock stitch on serger or with decorative overedge stitch on regular sewing machine (e.g. honeycomb stitch). See general instructions for finishing edges with binding on p.. Preparation: Cut interfacings for front facings on front panels and fuse them in place (see areas shaded in grey on smallscale patterns). Press folds at front edges of front panels to form facings as marked on pattern. Stitch outer edges of facings to front panels with flatlock stitch. Bottom edges of sleeves: Stitch sleeve cuffs to bottom edges of sleeves using flatlock seams: Pin one edge of cuff to bottom edge of sleeve right sides together and stitch with straight stitch. Press seam open. Fold cuff in half and pin its free edge to wrong side of sleeve edge. Topstitch cuff seam with flatlock stitch, catching edge of cuff in stitching. Joining: Pin sleeves to front and back panels and stitch raglan seams with straight stitch. Press seams open and trim seam allowances to approx. mm. Topstitch raglan seams with flatlock stitch. Stitch sleeve underarm seams and side seams. Stitch bottom-leg cuffs to bottom edges of legs in the same way as sleeve cuffs to sleeves. Finish neckline with binding and leave a little extra at each end of binding. Wrap ends of binding over front edges to wrong side and stitch them in place mm away from front edges. Trim excess binding off close to stitching. Finish leg inseam edges on front with binding in the same way. Pin crotch gusset to back panel right sides together and stitch with straight stitch. Press seam open, trim seam allowances to approx. mm and topstitch seam with flatlock stitch. Finish leg inseam edges on back as well as the other edge of crotch gusset with binding as instructed above. Finishing: Attach snap fasteners to garment s front edges, placing top snap close to neckline binding, lowest snap close to leg-inseam binding and the remaining - snaps at regular intervals between these. Attach socket halves of snap fasteners to leg-inseam binding on back and to binding on crotch gusset, placing middle snap at center-front point on crotch gusset, lowest snaps at bottom edges of legs and the rest at regular intervals be-tween these. Attach one stud half of snap fastener to leg-inseam binding on front, placing it on center-front line on outer front panel. Attach the remaining stud halves to leg-inseam edges on front to match socket halves at leg-inseam edges on back.. Toffee jersey dress cm Page front back sleeve + pocket + PATTERN SHEET A green cm yellow and orange, cm black cotton single jersey (CO/EL), (or total of cm of jersey for dress in single color) - 7 cm ribbing (CO/EL) - one sew-on snap fastener, ø 8 mm Cut front and back from black single jersey and sleeves and pockets from orange and yellow single jersey as indicated on list of pattern pieces. Place centerfront and center-back edges of pattern pieces on fabric fold and add 8 mm seam allowances to all other edges except neckline, bottom edges of sleeves and opening edges of pockets. Cut also. cm wide binding strips from ribbing for finishing neckline, bottom edges of sleeves, opening edges of pockets and edges of front slit. If you use a binder attachment on your coverstitch machine to attach the bindings, the binding strips in the width that fits the binder. stitch on regular sewing machine. See general instructions for finishing edges with binding on p.. Front: Finish opening edges of pockets with binding. Sew row of ease-stitching along curved edge of each pocket. Make cardboard template with pattern piece for pocket. Lay pocket template on wrong side of pocket and pull up bobbin threads of ease-stitching to turn pocket seam allowances over edge of template to wrong side of pocket. Press pocket edges from right side. Pin and stitch pockets to front panel as marked on pattern. Slash slit on front panel and finish its edges with binding. Lay edges of slit side by side, pin small dart at bottom of slit and stitch row of horizontal stitching across dart from right side. Joining: Finish bottom edges of sleeves with binding. Stitch shoulder seams. Stitch sleeves to armholes. Stitch sleeve underarm seams and side seams. Fold underarm seam allowances to one side and stitch them flat across sleeve-edge bindings. Fold up and press bottom hem and stitch it with serger coverstitch or with twin needle on regular sewing machine. Neckline: Finish neckline with binding and leave a little extra at each end of binding. Wrap end of binding on righthand side over edge of slit to wrong side, stitch it to neckline binding and trim excess binding off close to stitching. Fold end of binding on left-hand side in half, so that it extends approx. cm from edge of slit. Stitch open end of binding to neckline binding and trim excess binding off close to stitching. Sew snap fastener to neckline.

5 . Sweet Dreams sleep sack cm Page Cut zipper shield from interlock knit and other pieces from sweatshirt knit as indicated on list of pattern pieces. Place center-back edge on fabric fold and add 8 mm seam allowances to all other edges except neckline, bottom edges of sleeves and bottom edges of front and back panels. Cut. cm wide binding strips from ribbing for finishing neckline, bottom edges of sleeves and bottom edges of front and back panels. If you use a binder attachment on your coverstitch machine to attach the bindings, the binding strips in the width that fits the binder. stitch on regular sewing machine. Stitch flatlock stitching with flatlock stitch on serger or with decorative overedge stitch on regular sewing machine (e.g. honeycomb stitch) using contrast-color thread. See general instructions for finishing edges with binding on p.. Joining: Finish bottom edges of sleeves with binding. Pin sleeves to front and back panels and stitch raglan seams with straight stitch. Press seams open and trim seam allowances to approx. mm. Topstitch raglan seams with flatlock stitch. Finish neckline with binding. Finish raw center-front edges. Open zipper. Stitch left zipper tape to left front panel right sides together, using invisible zipper foot. Stitch right zipper tape in place in the same way. Stitch center-front seam from bottom of zipper placket to bottom edge of front panel. Press seam open. Finish bottom edges of front and back panels with binding. Fuse piece of interfacing to zipper shield, observing markings on small-scale pattern. Fold zipper shield right sides together and stitch its top and bottom edges. Turn zipper shield right side out and press it flat thoroughly. Serge or zigzag open edges of zipper shield together. Pin and stitch zipper shield to center-front seam allowance, to wrong side of zipper, aligning its top edge with top edge of neckline binding. Wrap ends of zipper tape over neckline binding to wrong side, turn zipper right way up and secure seam allowances at neckline corners in place by stitching across neckline binding from right side. Stitch sleeve underarm seams and side seams. Fold underarm seam allowances and side seam allowances to one side and stitch them flat across sleeve-edge bindings and across binding at bottom edge of sleep sack. Finishing: Attach six snap fasteners at regular intervals to bottom edge of sleep sack, placing socket halves on back panel. front back sleeve zipper shield PATTERN SHEET A blue cm stretch sweatshirt knit with soft, brushed reverse side (CO/EL), - cm contrast-color cotton interlock knit (CO) - piece of interfacing, Vlieseline H 80 - cm ribbing (CO/EL) - invisible zipper, length 0 cm - six snap fasteners, ø 8 mm, Prym Mini. Autumn Roses special-occasion dress cm Pages cm stretch velveteen (CO/EL) cm viscose lining fabric (CV) - cm soft veil tulle or mesh fabric (PES) for lining skirt, width m - cm interfacing, Vlieseline G 78 - invisible zipper, length cm Shell bodice front bodice back skirt front skirt back Lining bodice front bodice back skirt panel PATTERN SHEET A lilac Shell: Cut shell pieces from velveteen as indicated on list of pattern pieces, placing center-front edges of bodice front and skirt front on fabric fold and adding 0 mm seam allowances to other edges of shell pieces. Lining: Cut lining bodice front and backs as well as lining skirt panel from lining fabric as indicated on list of pattern pieces, placing center-front edges on fabric fold and adding mm seam allowances to center-back edges and 0 mm seam allowances to other edges. Cut cm high and 0 00 cm wide strip from tulle or mesh fabric for bottom-hem edge of lining. serger or zigzag stitch. Stabilizing: Cut interfacings for areas shaded in grey on small-scale patterns and fuse them in place on shell pieces. Bodice: Pin bodice front and bodice backs of shell right sides together and stitch shoulder seams. Press seams open. Stitch shoulder seams of lining in the same way. Pin shell bodice and lining bodice right sides together and stitch their necklines together, starting and ending stitching cm away from centerback seamline. Trim neckline seam allowances slightly and clip them along curves. Understitch neckline seam allowances to lining close to seamline. Press neckline gently. Pin and stitch armholes of shell and lining right sides together. Trim armhole seam allowances slightly and clip them along curves. Turn bodice right side out by pushing back panels between shoulders of shell and lining toward front panel. Understitch armhole seam allowances to lining close to seamline, starting stitching at side seam and continuing as far toward shoulder seam as you can reach. Press armholes gently. Joining: Sew gathering stitches along top edges of shell skirt panels and gather edges to fit bodice panels. Pin skirt front to bodice front and skirt backs to bodice backs right sides together and stitch waist seams. Steam seams gently. Stitch side seams: start stitching from waist edge of lining, stitch toward armhole and continue to bottom-hem edge of shell. Finish side seam allowances together and press side seams. Mark side-seam points and center-front point on lining skirt. Mark top edge of tulle hem panel into quarters. Sew gathering stitches along top edge of lining skirt and top edge of tulle panel. Gather tulle panel and stitch it to bottom edge of lining skirt right sides together, aligning quarter marks with center-front mark and side-seam marks. Gather top edge of lining skirt, pin it to lining bodice right sides together and stitch waist seam. Finish seam allowances of both seams on lining skirt. Fold seam allowances of tulle attachment seam toward lining skirt, topstitch seam close to seamline and press seam gently. Zipper: Finish raw center-back edges of shell and lining. Open zipper. Stitch left zipper tape to left center-back edge of shell right sides together, aligning top end of zipper with neckline seamline and ending stitching approx. cm above notch for zipper placket. Use invisible zipper foot for stitching. Stitch right zipper tape to right center-back edge in the same way. Stitch center-back seam from bottom of zipper placket to bottom hem and press seam open. Pin and stitch center-back edges of lining to edges of zipper placket on shell, right sides together and with zipper in between. Place stitching mm away from stitching line that attaches zipper. Turn all centerback seam allowances onto lining and stitch neckline seam on each side of placket. Turn center-back corners right side out. Stitch center-back seam of lining from bottom of zipper placket to bottom hem and press seam open. Finishing: Finish raw bottom-hem edge of shell. Fold up and press bottom hem of shell and stitch it by hand with blind hemming-stitch. The bottom edge of the tulle panel need not be finished; only trim it even if necessary. Attach side seams of shell and lining together within seam allowances, approx. cm below armholes.

6 7. Heart Warmer jacket cm Page front back sleeve PATTERN SHEET A brown cm viscose single jersey (CV/EL), cm velvet ribbon, width 0 mm - cm clear elastic tape, width 8 mm, Framilon - four buttons, ø 9 mm - four sew-on snap fasteners, ø 8 mm Cut garment pieces from single jersey as indicated on list of pattern pieces, placing center-back edge on fabric fold and adding 8 mm seam allowances to all other edges except neckline and bottom edges of sleeves. Cut also. cm wide binding strips for finishing neckline and bottom edges of sleeves. If you use a binder attachment on your coverstitch machine to attach the bindings, the binding strips in the width that fits the binder. stitch on regular sewing machine. See general instructions for finishing edges with binding on p.. Preparation: Cut two cm pieces of clear elastic tape for gathering bottom edges of sleeves. Machine-baste tapes to sleeve edges, stretching tapes slightly as you sew. Finish sleeve edges with binding. Turn and press seam allowances at centerfront edges to right side of front panels. Cut velvet ribbon into two equal-length pieces. Pin pieces to center-front edges over seam allowances, placing outer edge of ribbon mm away from fold. Stitch ribbons in place along both edges. Joining: Pin sleeves to front and back panels right sides together and stitch raglan seams. Finish neckline with binding and leave a little extra at each end of binding. Wrap ends of binding over front edges to wrong side and stitch them to neckline mm away from front edges. Trim excess binding off close to stitching. Stitch sleeve underarm seams and side seams. Fold underarm seam allowances to one side and stitch them flat across sleeve-edge bindings. Fold up and press bottom hem and stitch it with serger coverstitch or with twin needle on regular sewing machine. Finishing: Sew snap fasteners on front edges, placing top snap close to neckline and the rest at regular. cm intervals. Sew buttons as embellishment on right side of right front edge, placing them at snap positions. 8. Ringmaster shirt cm Pages front shoulder yoke** back sleeve sleeve cuff collar 7 pocket** 8 cuff placket binding* PATTERN SHEET A grey cm gingham-check cotton fabric (CO) - small piece of turquoise cotton fabric for cuff placket bindings - cm interfacing, Vlieseline H buttons, ø 0 mm *Cut cuff placket bindings from turquoise cotton fabric. Pattern piece for cuff placket binding includes seam allowances. Cut other garment pieces from gingham-check cotton fabric as indicated on list of pattern pieces, placing center-back edges on fabric fold and adding 0 mm seam allowances to other edges. **Note that pocket and shoulder yoke are on the bias. serger or zigzag stitch. Topstitch seams and edges with two parallel rows of stitching unless otherwise instructed. Stabilizing: Cut interfacings for areas shaded in grey on small-scale patterns and fuse them in place, i.e. for front facings, outer halves of sleeve cuffs and upper collar. Cuff plackets: Slash bottom edges of sleeves for cuff plackets as marked on pattern. Pin and stitch placket bindings to placket edges, with right side of binding facing wrong side of placket; leave even 7 mm seam allowance all along edge of binding while placing stitching 7 mm away from placket edges at bottom edge of sleeve and mm away from placket edges at top end of placket (see illustration). Fold binding in half, turn seam allowance on its free edge under and stitch turnedunder edge to right side of placket close to edge. Stitch small dart at the top of each placket. Leave placket edge closest to underarm seam straight and fold the other placket edge to wrong side of sleeve. Pocket: Stitch hem at opening edge of pocket. Turn and press seam allowances on other pocket edges to wrong side. Pin pocket to left front panel and stitch it in place close to edge. Joining: Press fold at front edge of each front panel to form facings as marked on pattern. Turn seam allowances on outer edges of facings to wrong side and pin and stitch facings to front panels. Pin and stitch front and back panels to shoulder yoke right sides together. Fold seam allowances toward yoke and topstitch seams. Stitch sleeves to armholes, fold seam allowances toward body of garment and topstitch seams. Stitch sleeve underarm seams and side seams. Stitch narrow hem at garment s bottom edge. Collar: Turn and press seam allowance on bottom-edge of interfaced collar piece (upper collar) to wrong side and machinebaste presser-foot width away from edge. Pin collar pieces right sides together and stitch their edges together. Trim corners, clip to stitching at inward corners and press collar seams open gently with point of iron. Turn collar right side out. Pin and stitch under collar to garment s neckline, right sides together. Turn all neckline seam allowances inside collar, pin edge of upper collar to neckline carefully and stitch. Topstitch around collar close to edge. See illustrated instructions on p.. Sleeve cuffs: Turn and press seam allowance on inner (non-interfaced) edge of sleeve cuff to wrong side and machinebaste along edge using presser-foot edge as guide. Fold cuff in half right sides together and stitch its side edges. Turn cuff right side out. Pin and stitch outer (interfaced) edge of cuff to sleeve edge right sides together. Turn seam allowances inside cuff and pin inner edge of cuff to sleeve edge carefully. Topstitch attachment seam of cuff close to seamline from right side, catching edge of inner half of cuff in stitching. Topstitch outer edge and side edges of cuff with two parallel rows of stitching. Finishing: Stitch buttonholes on left front edge, placing top buttonhole cm below neckline seam and the rest at regular -7 cm intervals. Stitch top buttonhole on front edge with red thread and the other buttonholes with white thread. Sew top button on front edge with turquoise thread and the other buttons with white thread. Stitch buttonholes and sew buttons on collar and sleeve cuffs as marked on pattern using white thread.

7 9. Mancini velveteen pants cm Pages 8 7 pants front pants back pocket piece pocket facing back pocket waistband + 7 fly shield PATTERN SHEET E blue cm velveteen with slight stretch (CO/EL), stretch/recovery 0% - 0 cm cotton fabric (CO) - 0 cm interfacing, Vlieseline H 80 - three metal buttons, ø mm - pants zipper, length cm - matching topstitching thread, Epic no neon-color sewing thread for buttonholes, Gütermann Cut waistband facing and pocket facings from cotton fabric and other garment pieces from velveteen as indicated on list of pattern pieces. Place center-back edge of waistband pattern on fabric fold and add cm seam allowances to all other edges. Take note of pattern markings for left and right placket edge on pattern piece for pants front. Take note of the direction of the nap on velveteen! Cut also cm x 0 cm strip from velveteen for belt loops. serger or zigzag stitch. Topstitch seams and edges with two parallel rows of stitching unless otherwise instructed. Sew buttonholes using neon-color thread. Preparation: Cut interfacings for outer waistband and opening edges of back pockets (see areas shaded in grey on small-scale patterns) and fuse them in place. Fold and stitch pleats at waist edges of pants fronts as marked on pattern. Topstitch pleats from right side for cm with two parallel rows of stitching. Front-hip pockets: Pin and stitch pocket facing to edge of pocket opening on pants front, right sides together. Understitch seam allowances at pocket opening to pocket facing close to seamline. Fold pocket facing to wrong side and topstitch edge of pocket opening. Pin pocket piece to pocket facing right sides together and stitch bottom of pocket. Machine-baste edges of pockets to waist and side seam allowances. Back pockets: Finish raw opening edges of pockets and fold and press hems on them. Turn hems to wrong side and stitch decorative stitching on them, using pattern piece for pocket as template for stitching. Stitch buttonholes at opening edges of pockets as marked on pattern. Make cardboard template with pattern piece for pocket. Lay template on wrong side of pocket and turn and press seam allowances at edges of pocket over edge of template to wrong side. Pin pockets to pants backs as marked on pattern and stitch them in place with two parallel rows of stitching. Joining: Pin pants fronts and backs right sides together and stitch leg inseams. Fold seam allowances toward pants backs and topstitch seams. Stitch crotch seam from back waist to notch for zipper placket on pants front. Apply zipper to placket, following illustrated instructions for flyfront zipper on p.. Topstitch crotch seam. Stitch side seams, fold seam allowances toward pants backs and topstitch seams close to seamline from waist down to bottom edge of front-hip pocket. Belt loops: Finish one raw long edge of belt loop strip, fold strip in three and stitch two parallel rows of topstitching in the middle of strip. Cut strip into five equal-length pieces. Pin and stitch one end of each belt loop to pants waist as shown in design sketch, right sides together. Waistline: Pin waistband and waistband facing right sides together and stitch their top edges and ends together. Trim across outward corners, clip to stitching at inward corner and turn waistband right side out. Pin and stitch right side of waistband facing to wrong side of pants waist edge. Turn seam allowance at bottom edge of outer waistband under, pin turnedunder edge to waist edge and stitch close to edge. Press waist area and topstitch around waistband close to edge. Turn seam allowances at free ends of belt loops to wrong side and stitch ends to top edge of waistband. Finishing: Fold up, press and stitch hems ( cm +. cm) at bottom edges of legs. Stitch buttonholes on waistband as marked on pattern. Sew buttons at front waist and on back pockets. 0. Star Master vest cm Page cm stretch sweatshirt knit (CO/EL), - 0 cm ribbing (CO/EL) - - snap fasteners, ø mm, Prym 8 7 front back pocket pocket binding* neckline binding* armhole binding* 7 front placket binding* 8 hem band* PATTERN SHEET B green Cut front panels, back panel and pocket from sweatshirt knit as indicated on list of pattern pieces, placing center-back edge on fabric fold and adding cm seam allowances to all other edges except neckline and armholes. Cut pocket binding, neckline binding, armhole bindings, front placket bindings and hem band from ribbing as indicated on list of pattern pieces. *Pattern pieces for bindings and hem band include seam allowances. stitch on regular sewing machine. Stitch flatlock stitching with flatlock stitch on serger or with decorative overedge stitch on regular sewing machine (e.g. honeycomb stitch). Apply bindings as follows: Stitch one edge of binding to garment s edge to be finished, right sides together and stretching binding slightly as you sew. Wrap binding over garment s edge to wrong side, pin its free edge carefully in place and stitch close to binding seamline from right side of garment with serger coverstitch or with twin needle on regular sewing machine. Pocket: Finish opening edge of pocket with binding. Turn seam allowances at other pocket edges to wrong side, and pin and stitch pocket to left front panel as marked on pattern. Joining: Stitch shoulder seams. Finish neckline and armholes with binding. Stitch side seams, fold side seam allowances to one side and stitch them flat across armhole bindings. Pin one edge of hem band to garment s bottom edge right sides together and stitch with straight stitch. Press seam open. Fold hem band in half and pin its free edge to wrong side of garment s bottom edge. Topstitch hem band seam with flatlock stitch, catching edge of hem band in stitching. Finish front edges with binding and leave a little extra at both ends of binding. Wrap ends of binding tightly to wrong side, stitch them to binding mm from garment s edge and trim excess binding off close to stitching. Finishing: Attach snap fasteners to front edges, placing top snap close to neck edge, lowest snap close to bottom-hem edge and the rest at regular intervals between these.

8 . Arctic Sun tunic cm Pages 0- bodice front bodice back sleeve skirt panel PATTERN SHEET B red cm printed organic-cotton single jersey (CO/EL), - cm ribbing (CO/EL) - 80 cm clear elastic tape, width mm, Framilon Cut garment pieces from single jersey as indicated on list of pattern pieces, placing center-front and center-back edges of pattern pieces on fabric fold and adding 8-0 mm seam allowances to all other edges except neckline and bottom edges of sleeves. Cut. cm wide binding strips from ribbing for finishing neckline and bottom edges of sleeves. If you use a binder attachment on your coverstitch machine to attach the bindings, the binding strips in the width that fits the binder. stitch on regular sewing machine. Stitch bottom hem with serger coverstitch or with twin needle on regular sewing machine. See general instructions for finishing edges with binding on p.. Preparation: Cut two 0 cm pieces of clear elastic tape for gathering skirt panels and two cm pieces for gathering bottom edges of sleeves. Machine-baste clear elastic tapes to top edges of skirt panels, to their wrong side between pattern markings, stretching tapes slightly as you sew to gather edges beautifully. Gather bottom edges of sleeves in the same way by machine-basting pieces of clear elastic tape along entire width of each sleeve edge. Cut two pieces of clear elastic tape for stabilizing shoulder seams (measure required length on pattern piece for bodice back and add seam allowances). Machinebaste tapes to wrong side of shoulder seam allowances on bodice back. Joining: Stitch left shoulder seam. Finish neckline with binding. Finish bottom edges of sleeves with binding. Stitch right shoulder seam. Fold shoulder seam allowances to one side and stitch them flat across neckline binding. Stitch sleeves to armholes. Stitch skirt panels to bodice front and bodice back. Stitch sleeve underarm seams and side seams. Fold underarm seam allowances to one side and stitch them flat across sleeve-edge bindings. Fold up, press and stitch bottom hem as marked on pattern.. Tiny Path leggings or long johns cm Pages 0- A B pants front pants back knee patch (B) PATTERN SHEET C grey cm striped organic-cotton single jersey (CO/EL), - piece of solid-color cotton single jersey for knee patches, design B - 0 cm elastic, width 0 mm Cut pants panels from striped single jersey as indicated on list of pattern pieces, aligning stripes at side seams and adding 8-0 mm seam allowances to all edges. Design B: Cut knee patches from solidcolor single jersey (pattern piece for knee patch includes seam allowances). stitch on regular sewing machine. Stitch flatlock stitching on knee patches and bottom-leg hems with flatlock stitch on serger or with decorative overedge stitch on regular sewing machine (e.g. honeycomb stitch). Stitch waist casing with serger coverstitch or with twin needle on regular sewing machine. Knee patches, design B: Pin knee patches to pants fronts as marked on pattern and stitch them in place with flatlock stitch. Secure thread ends carefully. Joining: Pin pants fronts and backs right sides together and stitch side seams. Fold up and press hems at bottom edges of legs and stitch them with flatlock stitch. Stitch leg inseams. Fold inseam seam allowances at bottom edges of legs to one side and stitch them flat across bottom-leg hems. Stitch crotch seam. Fold, press and stitch casing at waist as marked on pattern, leaving small opening for inserting elastic. Measure and piece of elastic to fit the child s waist. Insert elastic into casing and stitch its ends together. Sew opening closed.. Chilly Day fleece hoodie cm Pages, cm fleece (PES), stretch/recovery 0% - cm printed sweatshirt knit (CO/EL), stretch/recovery % cm striped cotton single jersey (CO/EL), - 0 cm ribbing (CO/EL) - piece of interfacing, Vlieseline H cm clear elastic tape, width 8 mm, Framilon - -8 plastic-coated snap fasteners, ø mm, Prym Color

9 Preshrink the fabrics by washing and pressing them thoroughly before ting. Shell: Cut front and back panels as well as sleeves from fleece, and hood panels and pockets from printed sweatshirt knit as indicated on list of pattern pieces, placing center-back edge of pattern on fabric fold and adding cm seam allowances to all other edges except face edge of hood. Cut pocket bands and sleeve cuffs from ribbing with cm seam allowances. Cut also cm wide binding strip from ribbing for finishing face edge of hood. Lining: Cut front and back panels as well as sleeves from striped single jersey as indicated on list of pattern pieces, placing center-back edge of pattern on fabric fold and adding cm seam allowances to all other edges. Cut hood panels from striped single jersey, adding mm seam allowances to top/back edge and neck edge (however, stitch seams of lining hood with cm seam allowance). stitch on regular sewing machine. No seam finish is necessary as the garment is fully lined. See general instructions for finishing edges with binding on p.. Stabilizing: Cut pieces of interfacing for front edges of lining front panels ( from striped jersey) and fuse them in place (see area shaded in grey on smallscale pattern). Pockets: Sew row of ease-stitching within seam allowance along curved edges of pocket. Clip to stitching line at fork of thumb. Make cardboard template with pattern piece for pocket. Lay template on wrong side of pocket. Pull up bobbin thread of ease-stitching, turn pocket seam allowances over edge of template to wrong side and press pocket. Fold pocket band in half right sides together and stitch its ends. Turn band right side out. Stitch band to opening edge of pocket right sides together, aligning its ends with turned-under edges of pocket. Pin and stitch pockets to shell front panels as marked on pattern. Shell: Stitch shoulder seams. Stitch sleeves to armholes. Stitch sleeve underarm seams and side seams. Leave shell inside out. Fold each sleeve cuff in half right sides together and stitch their side edges together to form circles. Fold cuffs in half, wrong sides together. Place sleeve cuffs inside shell sleeves, right sides together, and stitch them to sleeve edges, stretching cuffs as you sew. Hood: Stitch top/back seam of both shell and lining hood. Press seams open. Place shell hood and lining hood within one another, wrong sides together, and machine-baste their face edges and neck edges together. Finish face edge of hood with binding. Apply binding so that the face edge is slightly gathered up. Pin and stitch hood to shell s neckline, right sides together, aligning its face edge with centerfront marks on shell. Joining: Stitch shoulder seams of lining. Stitch lining sleeves to armholes of lining. Stitch sleeve underarm seams and side seams, leaving cm opening for turning in one underarm seam. Press seams on shell and lining open. Turn shell and lining inside out and place them right sides together. Pin and stitch bottom-hem edges, front edges and necklines of shell and lining together, with hood in between. Stitch piece of clear elastic tape to bottom-hem seam allowances on lining side, placing ends of tape at pattern markings and stretching tape slightly as you sew. With shell and lining sleeves hanging separately, pin and stitch sleeve edges of shell and lining right sides together, with cuffs in between and stretching cuffs as you sew. Note that shell sleeve and lining sleeve are not placed within one another but sleeve edges are brought end to end. Turn jacket right side out through opening for turning as follows: Push your hand through opening, take hold of sleeve cuff and turn shell sleeve over lining sleeve first and then pull sleeve out through opening. Repeat for the other sleeve. Pull the rest of jacket right side out gently through opening. Pin and stitch opening closed. Finishing: Press front edges from lining side. Attach snap fasteners to front edges, placing top and bottom snap as marked on pattern and the rest at regular intervals between these. Fleece Striped Sweatjersey shirt knit front - back - sleeve - hood - pocket - - Ribbing pocket band 7 sleeve cuff 7 PATTERN SHEET B orange. Pretty Basic jersey top cm Pages (A), (B) A B front back sleeve collar, design B PATTERN SHEET B black cm cotton single jersey (CO/EL) or viscose single jersey (CV/EL), - 0 cm (design A) or 8 cm (design B) clear elastic tape, width mm, Framilon Both designs: Cut front, back and sleeves from single jersey as indicated on list of pattern pieces, placing center-front and center-back edges of pattern pieces on fabric fold and adding 8 mm seam allowances to all other edges except neckline and bottom edges of sleeves. Cut also. cm wide binding strips for finishing neckline and bottom edges of sleeves. If you use a binder attachment on your coverstitch machine to attach the bindings, the binding strips in the width that fits the binder. Design A: Cut cm wide strip from single jersey for frills on front panel; total length of strip should be 0 0 cm. stitch on regular sewing machine. See general instructions for finishing edges with binding on p.. Frills, design A: Finish both long edges of frill strip with serger rolled hem or with narrow, short zigzag. Cut strip first into four equal-length pieces and then shorten the strips as follows: strip for top (first) frill by cm, strip for second frill by cm, and strip for third frill by cm. Sew two rows of gathering stitches in the middle of each frill strip, placing them approx. 7 mm apart and using contrast-color thread. Gather frills to lengths that fit front neckline and area below it. Pin frills to front panel and stitch them in place with narrow zigzag stitch or serger coverstitch, placing top frill so that its top edge is cm below neckline and the other three frills side by side below top frill. Remove gathering stitches. Collar, design B: Cut cm piece of clear elastic tape for gathering neck edge of collar. Mark neck edge of collar and clear elastic tape into quarters. Machine-baste clear elastic tape to wrong side of collar edge, stretching tape as you sew to gather collar evenly. Stitch ends of collar together to form circle. Finish outer edge of collar with serger rolled hem or with narrow, short zigzag. Secure thread ends inconspicuously. Bottom edges of sleeves: Cut two cm pieces of clear elastic tape for gathering bottom edges of sleeves. Machine-baste clear elastic tapes to right side of seam allowances at sleeve edges. Finish bottom edges of sleeves with binding. Joining: Pin sleeves to front and back right sides together and stitch raglan seams. Stitch sleeve underarm seams and side seams. Fold underarm seam allowances to one side and stitch them flat across sleeve-edge bindings. Fold up and press bottom hem and stitch it with serger coverstitch or with twin needle on regular sewing machine. Collar, design B: Machine-baste collar to neckline, aligning seam on collar with center-back mark at neckline and stretching both neck edge and collar edge as you sew to produce an elastic seam. Neckline: Finish neckline with binding. If you use a binder on a coverstitch machine, start applying binding at centerback mark, work your way around neckline, and when you return to center-back mark, turn binding away from neckline and leave a little extra at its end. Wrap end of binding tightly to wrong side of neckline, stitch it in place along stitching line that attaches binding and trim excess binding off close to stitching. If you use a regular sewing machine, stitch ends of binding together to form circle first and apply binding as usual.

10 . Meoow skirt with cat pockets cm Pages - skirt front and back waistband bottom-hem trim ear + pocket + PATTERN SHEET C red cm printed polka-dot and 0 cm solid-color pink cotton fabric (CO) - piece of cotton fabric with larger polka-dot print and pieces of solid-color black, white and deeppink cotton fabric for pockets - piece of double-sided fusible web, Vlieseline Vliesofix - 0 cm elastic, width mm cm taffeta ribbon, width mm Cut skirt front and back from polka-dot and waistband and bottom-hem trim from pink cotton fabric as indicated on list of pattern pieces, placing center-front and center-back of skirt pattern as well as foldline edges of patterns for waistband and bottom-hem trim on fabric fold and adding cm seam allowances to other edges. Cut pockets from larger polka-dot fabric, and pocket lining pieces from pink and ears from deep-pink cotton fabric with cm seam allowances. serger or zigzag stitch. Sew topstitching close to edge or seamline. Pockets: Pin and stitch ear pieces right sides together in pairs, leaving bottom edge of each ear open. Trim seam allowances on edges and across corners and turn ears right side out. Press ears flat and topstitch them close to edge. Machine-baste ears to opening edges of outer pocket pieces right sides together, aligning their outer edges with seamlines at side edges of pocket. Pin pocket pieces right sides together and stitch their edges together (with ears in between), leaving small opening for turning on one side. Trim seam allowances on edges and across corners and turn pocket right side out. Press pocket flat and topstitch its opening edge. Trace eyes, pupils and nose on paper backing of double-sided fusible web. Iron eyes onto wrong side of white, pupils onto wrong side of black and nose onto wrong side of deep-pink scrap of fabric and shapes out along their outlines. Remove paper backing from fusible web and iron eyes, pupils and nose onto pockets. Stitch shapes in place with narrow, short zigzag stitch or with straight stitch. Stitch pockets to skirt front. Stitch cat s whiskers with straight stitch as shown in design sketch. Joining: Pin skirt front and back right sides together and stitch side seams. Stitch ends of bottom-hem trim together to form circle. Pin and stitch trim to bottom-hem edge of skirt right sides together. Press bottom-hem seam leaving approx. mm of trim visible on right side to form piping-like trim. Topstitch bottomhem seam close to seamline. Turn seam allowance at top edge of bottom-hem trim to wrong side, and pin and stitch edge to skirt. Waistline: Fold waistband in half, wrong sides together, and press fold. Mark waistband into quarters. Stitch ends of waistband together to form circle, leaving small opening for inserting elastic in seam between pattern markings. Press seam open and topstitch edges of opening close to edge from right side. Mark center-front and center-back points at waist edge of skirt and sew gathering stitches at waist. Gather waist edge to fit waistband. Pin and stitch right side of inner edge of waistband to wrong side of skirt waist (place opening for inserting elastic on the outside of skirt and align it with left side seam). Turn seam allowance at outer edge of waistband under, pin turned-under edge to waist edge and stitch close to edge. Measure and piece of elastic to fit the child s waist and insert it into waistband. Stitch ends of elastic together. Thread taffeta ribbon into waistband for drawstring and stitch it through all layers to waistband and elastic at right side seam.. Frozen Meadow faux fur jacket cm Pages - 7 Faux fur Poplin front back sleeve hood pom-pom - Ribbing sleeve cuff 7 hem band PATTERN SHEET C green cm longpile faux fur (PA/PES) cm cotton poplin for lining - 0 cm ribbing (CO/EL) - open-end zipper, length cm Shell: Cut shell pieces from faux fur and ribbing as indicated on list of pattern pieces, placing center-back edges on fabric fold and adding 0 mm seam allowances to other edges. Cut also from ribbing: - cm x cm strip for drawstring casing at face edge of hood -. cm wide strips for drawstring and for finishing front edges. (If you use a binder attachment on your coverstitch machine to attach the bindings, the binding strips in the width that fits the binder. Note! Lay pattern pieces on wrong side of faux fur and garment pieces out one at a time. Cut base fabric carefully with tips of scissors, taking care not to pile. Shake any loose pile off before starting to construct the garment. Take note of the direction of the pile! Lining: Cut lining pieces from poplin as indicated on list of pattern pieces, placing center-back edge on fabric fold and adding 0 mm seam allowances to other edges. with straight stitch. No seam finish is necessary as the garment is fully lined. Stitch flatlock stitching with flatlock stitch on serger or with decorative overedge stitch on regular sewing machine (e.g. honeycomb stitch). See general instructions for finishing edges with binding on p.. Hood: Stitch hems on ends of drawstring casing strip. Fold casing strip in half lengthwise, wrong sides together, and machine-baste open edges together. Pin shell hood panels as well as hood lining panels right sides together and stitch top/center-back seams. Machine-baste drawstring casing to face edge of shell hood, right sides together, placing ends of casing at pattern markings. Place hood sections within one another, right sides together, and stitch their face edges together, with drawstring casing in between. Understitch face-edge seam allowances to lining close to seamline. Turn hood right side out and machine-baste neckline edges of hood sections together within seam allowances. Trim pile from seam allowances to reduce bulk. >>>

11 Joining shell: Pin sleeves to front and back right sides together and stitch raglan seams. Stitch sleeve underarm seams and side seams. Leave shell inside out. Stitch side edges of each sleeve cuff right sides together to form circles. Fold cuffs in half, wrong sides together. Place sleeve cuffs inside shell sleeves, right sides together, and stitch them to sleeve edges, stretching cuffs slightly as you sew. Pin and stitch outside edge of hem band to bottomhem edge of shell, right sides together. Finish front edges with binding from neckline to pattern marking on hem band. Pin and stitch hood to shell s neckline right sides together, aligning face edge of hood with outer edges of front-edge bindings. Joining lining: Pin sleeves to front and back right sides together and stitch raglan seams. Stitch sleeve underarm seams and side seams. Press seams open. Joining shell and lining: Pin free edge of hem band to bottom edge of lining, right sides together. Open zipper. Pin and stitch zipper halves to front edges of lining, with wrong side of zipper facing right side of lining; stitch approx. mm away from zipper teeth and align bottom end of zipper with foldline on hem band. Understitch front-edge seam allowances to lining close to seamline. Leave shell and lining inside out. Place shell and lining right sides together (do not place sleeves within one another but leave them hanging separately). Pin and stitch necklines of shell and lining right sides together with hood in between, aligning zipper teeth with outer edge of front-edge binding on shell. Trim neckline seam allowances, trim pile and clip seam allowances along curves. Pin and stitch sleeve edges of shell and lining right sides together, with cuffs in between and stretching cuffs as you sew. Push hem band between shell and lining, pin bottom-hem seam allowances on shell and lining together and stitch them together as far toward front edges as you can reach. Turn garment right side out through front edge. Pin front edges of shell carefully to front edges of lining, on top of zipper, and stitch them to lining by stitching-in-the-ditch along front-edge seamlines. Finishing: Fold drawstring strip in three and stitch in the middle of strip with flatlock stitch. Sew gathering stitches by hand along outer edges of pom-pom pieces and pull up stitching to shape pompoms. Stuff pom-poms with pile that was trimmed off from faux fur. Pull basting stitches tighter and turn seam allowance inside pom-pom. Insert end of drawstring into pom-pom and sew opening closed. Thread drawstring into casing at face edge of hood, shorten it to desired length and sew another pom-pom at its free end. Secure drawstring to casing by stitching-in-the-ditch along top seam of hood. Comb seams on fur side gently to remove any loose pile from stitching. 7. Forest plaid flannel shirt cm Pages, 9 front shoulder yoke back sleeve pocket pocket flap + 7 neckline binding* 8 hood 9 sleeve cuff PATTERN SHEET D orange cm plaid cotton flannel (CO) - 0 cm striped cotton single jersey (CO/EL) - cm ribbing (CO/EL) - 0 cm interfacing, Vlieseline H snap fasteners, ø 0 mm Cut hood from striped cotton single jersey, adding 8 mm seam allowances to all edges except face edge. Cut sleeve cuffs from ribbing with cm seam allowances and also. cm wide binding strip from ribbing for finishing face edge of hood. Cut other garment pieces from plaid flannel as indicated on list of pattern pieces, placing center-back edges on fabric fold and adding cm seam allowances to other edges. Note that shoulder yoke, pockets, pocket flaps and neckline binding are on the bias. *Pattern piece for neckline binding includes seam allowances. serger or zigzag stitch. Topstitch seams and edges with two parallel rows of stitching unless otherwise instructed. Stitch top/back seam of hood with serger or with overedge stretch stitch on regular sewing machine. See general instructions for finishing edges with binding on p.. Stabilizing: Cut interfacings for front facings and outer pocket-flap pieces and fuse them in place (see areas shaded in grey on small-scale patterns). Pockets: Stitch hems at opening edges of pockets. Attach snap fasteners to pockets as marked on pattern. Turn and press seam allowances at other pocket edges to wrong side. Pin and topstitch pockets to front panels as marked on pattern. Pin pocket flap pieces right sides together in pairs and stitch their bottom and side edges. Trim seam allowances across corners and press seams open. Turn flaps right side out, press them flat thoroughly and topstitch their outer edges. Attach snap fasteners to pocket flaps as marked on pattern. Pin flaps above pockets right sides together and stitch along open edge of each flap. Fold flaps right way up and topstitch attachment seam using presserfoot edge as guide, concealing seam allowances. Joining: Pin and stitch front and back panels to shoulder yoke right sides together. Fold seam allowances toward yoke and topstitch seams. Fold and press each sleeve cuff wrong sides together. Stitch cuffs to bottom edges of sleeves right sides together with straight stitch, stretching cuffs slightly as you sew. Serge or zigzag seam allowances together, fold them toward sleeve and topstitch cuff seams. Stitch sleeves to armholes, fold seam allowances toward body of garment and topstitch seams. Stitch sleeve underarm seams and side seams. Fold underarm seam allowances to one side at sleeve edges and stitch them flat for a couple of centimeters. Press fold at front edge of each front panel to form facings as marked on pattern. Pin hood panels right sides together and stitch top/back seam. Finish face edge of hood with binding. Pin and stitch hood to neckline, right sides together, aligning its face edge with center-front marks on front panels. Turn seam allowances at outer edges of front facings in position, fold facings onto front panels right sides together (with neckline corners of hood in between) and stitch top edges of facings to neckline. Pin and stitch one edge of neckline binding to neckline seam on hood side, with ends of binding slightly overlapping front facings. Trim neckline seam allowances. Turn seam allowance on free edge of binding under, pin edge to neckline and stitch it in place close to edge. Turn front neckline corners right side out. Pin and stitch front facings to front panels close to edge. Stitch narrow hem at garment s bottom edge. Finishing: Attach snap fasteners to front edges, placing top snap close to neckline seam, lowest snap 8-0 cm up from bottom hem and the rest at regular intervals between these. Tip! If you wish make a classic shirt with a collar, similar to design 8, in sizes 98- cm using this pattern, you ll find the pattern pieces for the collar (0) and the sleeve cuff () on the pattern sheet. Refer to the ting and sewing instructions for design Arnold tweed pants cm Pages, cm woolblend herringbone tweed (CO/PES/WV/PC) - cm cotton fabric (CO) - 0 cm interfacing, Vlieseline H 80 - or metal buttons, ø mm - pants zipper, length cm - matching topstitching thread, Epic no neon-color sewing thread for buttonholes, Gütermann

12 pants front pants back pocket piece pocket facing waistband + fly shield (7 back pocket ) 7 PATTERN SHEET B grey ABOUT PATTERN This design is similar to design 9 (which is in smaller sizes) but without back pockets. You ll find the pattern for the back pocket (7) on the pattern sheet and you can construct it following the instructions for design 9. Cut waistband facing and pocket facings from cotton fabric and other garment pieces from tweed as indicated on list of pattern pieces. Place center-back edge of waistband on fabric fold and add cm seam allowances to other edges of garment pieces. Take note of pattern markings for left and right placket edge on pattern piece for pants front. Cut also cm x 0 cm strip from tweed for belt loops. serger or zigzag stitch. Topstitch seams and edges with two parallel rows of stitching unless otherwise instructed. Stitch belt loops, buttonholes and decorative stitching at side seams using neon-color thread. Preparation: Cut interfacing for outer waistband piece and fuse it in place. Fold and stitch pleats at waist edges of pants fronts as marked on pattern. Topstitch pleats from right side for cm with two parallel rows of stitching. Stitch darts on pants backs. Joining: Follow instructions for design no. 9. Stitch decorative stitching over side seams with straight stitch, observing pattern markings. 9. Huntsman wool-knit hoodie cm Pages 8-9 front back sleeve hood pocket piece PATTERN SHEET C black cm double-face wool-blend knit (WV/PA) - piece of cotton single jersey for finishing neckline and pocket openings - 7 cm fusible stay tape, Vlieseline Formband - open-end zipper, length cm Cut garment pieces from wool-blend knit as indicated on list of pattern pieces, placing center-back edge on fabric fold and adding cm seam allowances to all other edges except front edges of front panels and face edge of hood. Cut also cm wide binding strip from wool-blend knit for finishing front edges and face edge of hood; measure required length on pattern pieces and binding 0-0% shorter, depending on the amount of stretch in your knit. Cut cm wide strips from cotton single jersey for finishing neckline seam and for facing pocket openings. serger or zigzag stitch. Stitch flatlock stitching with flatlock stitch on serger or with decorative overedge stitch on regular sewing machine (e.g. honeycomb stitch). Stabilizing: Cut pieces of stay tape for shoulder edges on back panel as well as for front edge of left front panel (measure required lengths of tape on pattern pieces and add seam allowances). Fuse tapes to wrong side of garment pieces. Pockets: Stitch one edge of pocket facing to edge of pocket opening, right sides together. Understitch seam allowances to facing close to seamline. Turn entire facing to wrong side, turn seam allowance on its free edge under and stitch facing to pocket opening close to turned-under edge. Steam edges of pocket openings. Lay pocket piece under front panel, both right side up, and align pattern markings on pocket piece with pattern markings for pocket opening. Stitch side edge of pocket to side seam allowance on front panel. Pin and baste curved edge of pocket to front panel. Stitch pocket piece in place with flatlock stitch from right side of front panel. Joining: Pin front panels to back panel right sides together and stitch shoulder seams. Fold seam allowances toward back panel and topstitch seams using presserfoot edge as guide. Fold hems at bottom edges of sleeves to right side, pin and steam them, and stitch with flatlock stitch. Stitch sleeves to armholes, fold seam allowances toward body of garment and topstitch seams. Stitch sleeve underarm seams and side seams right sides together, starting stitching at bottom edge of sleeve and ending cm before bottom-hem edge. Clip to stitching at the end point of stitching and stitch the rest of side seam wrong sides together. Steam side seams open across height of bottom hem. Fold hem at garment s bottom edge to right side, pin it and stitch with flatlock stitch. Fold underarm seam allowances to one side and stitch them flat across sleeve-edge hems. Pin hood panels right sides together and stitch top/back seam. Topstitch seam using presser-foot edge as guide. Pin and stitch hood to garment s neckline right sides together. Pin and stitch neckline binding to neckline seam on hood side, with right side of binding facing wrong side of hood. Trim neckline seam allowances slightly and understitch them to binding close to seamline. Turn seam allowance on free edge of binding under, pin turned-under edge to neckline and stitch binding in place close to edge. Front edges and zipper: Pin and stitch binding from wool-blend knit to front edges and face edge of hood right sides together (use pale-colored side of knit as right side). Wrap binding over garment s edge to wrong side, turn ends of binding at bottom hem under and pin free edge of binding carefully to wrong side of garment. Stitch binding in place from right side with serger coverstitch or with twin needle on regular sewing machine. Pin left zipper half to left front edge and stitch it in place along line of stitching that attaches binding. Hand-baste centerfront lines on front panels using pattern piece as guide. Overlap front panels, align center-front lines and close zipper. Pin right zipper half to right front panel carefully, turn its top end to wrong side and stitch it in place along both edges of zipper tape.

13 0. Rounded Square jersey blouse cm Page front back sleeve collar neckline binding* PATTERN SHEET D green cm printed viscose single jersey (CV/EL) or cotton single jersey (CO/EL), - 0 cm interfacing, Vlieseline H 80-0 cm elastic, width 8 mm - -7 buttons, ø mm Cut garment pieces from single jersey as indicated on list of pattern pieces, placing center-back edges on fabric fold and adding cm seam allowances to other edges. Cut under collar with slightly narrower seam allowances than upper collar. *Pattern piece for neckline binding includes seam allowances. Construction techniques: Stitch all seams except collar and neckline seams stitch on regular sewing machine. Finish seams with serger or zigzag stitch. Stabilizing: Cut interfacings for front facings on front panels and for upper collar and fuse them in place (see areas shaded in grey on small-scale patterns). Cut 0 mm wide strips from interfacing for stabilizing shoulder edges on back panel and fuse them to shoulder seam allowances. Joining: Pin front panels to back panel right sides together and stitch shoulder seams. Stitch sleeves to armholes. Stitch sleeve underarm seams and side seams. Finish raw front edges and bottom-hem edge. Fold and stitch narrow hems at outer edges of front facings. Press fold at front edge of each front panel as marked on pattern. Fold front facings to right side at garment s bottom hem and stitch their bottom edges to garment along bottomhem foldline. Turn bottom-hem corners right side out. Fold up and press bottom hem as marked on pattern and stitch it with serger coverstitch or with twin needle on regular sewing machine. Bottom edges of sleeves: Finish raw bottom edges of sleeves. Cut two cm pieces from elastic. Stitch ends of each elastic together to form circles and mark both elastics and sleeve edges into halves. Machinebaste elastics to wrong side of sleeveedge seam allowances, placing them close to sleeve edge. Turn sleeve-edge seam allowances with elastics to wrong side of sleeves and stitch sleeve edges along outer edge of elastic, stretching elastic as you sew. Collar: Pin collar pieces right sides together and stitch their outer edges together. Trim seam allowances on outer edge slightly and understitch them to under collar close to seamline. Press collar flat. Topstitch outer edge of collar close to edge and machine-baste its open edges together. Pin and stitch collar to garment s neckline, with right side of under collar facing right side of garment and aligning ends of collar with center-front marks. Fold front facings onto ends of collar to right side of front panels and stitch their top edges to neckline. Pin and stitch one edge of neckline binding to neckline seam on collar side. Trim neckline seam allowances. Turn neckline corners right side out. Turn seam allowance on free edge of binding under and stitch turned-under edge to neckline close to edge. Finishing: Stitch buttonholes on right front edge and sew buttons on left front edge, placing top buttonhole and button as marked on pattern and the rest at regular. 7 cm intervals.. Cap Sleeve pinafore dress cm Page cm stretch velveteen (CO/EL), stretch/recovery 0% cm viscose lining fabric (CV) - cm interfacing, Vlieseline G 78 - invisible zipper, length cm Shell Lining front - bodice front - skirt front - back - bodice back - skirt back - cap sleeve pocket flap PATTERN SHEET C orange Preshrink the fabrics by washing and pressing them before ting. Shell: Cut up patterns for front and back into two separate pattern pieces along marked seamlines. Cut shell pieces from velveteen as indicated on list of pattern pieces, adding cm seam allowances to all edges. Take note of the direction of nap on velveteen! Lining: Trace pattern pieces for lining observing markings on small-scale patterns. Cut lining pieces from viscose lining fabric as indicated on list of pattern pieces, adding mm seam allowances to bottom edges of sleeves, outer edges of pocket flaps and center-back edges of back panels and cm seam allowances to all other edges. Note that bottom hem of lining is along pattern lines marking bottomhem foldline of shell. serger or zigzag stitch. Topstitch panel seams close to seamline and edges of pocket flaps using presser-foot edge as guide. Stabilizing: Cut cm wide strips from interfacing for stabilizing neckline and armholes of shell (see edges shaded in grey on small-scale patterns). Fuse strips in place, aligning their edges with outer edges of seam allowances. Pocket flaps: Pin pocket flap pieces together in pairs (outer flap + flap lining) and stitch their outer edges. Trim seam allowances slightly and press seams open. Turn pocket flaps right side out and press them flat thoroughly. Topstitch outer edges of flaps and machine-baste their open edges together. Pin and machine-baste pocket flaps to top edges of skirt fronts as marked on pattern, with right side of flap lining facing right side of skirt panel. Cap sleeves: Pin sleeve halves together in pairs (shell + lining) and stitch their bottom edges together. Understitch bottom-edge seam allowances to lining close to seamline. Place shell sleeve and sleeve lining wrong sides together and press bottom edge of sleeve, rolling edge of shell sleeve slightly to the underside of sleeve. Machine-baste sleeve caps of shell sleeve and sleeve lining together within seam allowances. Sew rows of easestitching along sleeve caps and pull up bobbin threads to shape sleeve caps slightly. Shell: Pin bodice fronts to skirt fronts and stitch waist seams. Fold seam allowances toward bodice fronts and topstitch seams. Pin left and right front panels together and stitch center-front seam. Fold seam allowances toward right front panel and topstitch seam. Pin bodice backs to skirt backs and stitch waist seams. Fold seam allowances toward bodice backs and topstitch seams. Pin shell front and back right sides together and stitch shoulder seams. Machine-baste sleeves to armholes right sides together, observing pattern markings. >>>

14 Joining: Stitch center-front seam of lining. Pin lining front and backs right sides together and stitch shoulder seams. Pin shell and lining right sides together and stitch their necklines together, starting and ending stitching cm away from center-back seamline. Trim neckline seam allowances slightly and clip them along curves. Understitch neckline seam allowances to lining close to seamline. Press neckline gently. Pin and stitch armholes of shell and lining right sides together. Trim armhole seam allowances slightly and clip them along curves. Turn garment right side out by pushing back panels between shoulders of shell and lining toward front panel. Understitch armhole seam allowances to lining close to seamline, starting stitching at side seam and continuing as far toward shoulder seam as you can reach. Press armholes gently. Stitch side seams: start stitching from bottom-hem edge of lining, stitch toward armhole and continue to bottom-hem edge of shell. Finish side seam allowances together and press side seams. Zipper: Apply invisible zipper to centerback edges, following instructions for design. Finishing: Stitch hem ( cm + cm) at bottom edge of lining. Finish raw bottomhem edge of shell. Fold up and press bottom hem of shell as marked on pattern and stitch it with straight stitch. Attach side seams of shell and lining together within seam allowances, approx. cm below armholes.. Melange wool-knit coat cm Pages cm felted (non-raveling) double-face wool-blend knit (WV/PES) - piece of double-sided fusible web, Vlieseline Vliesofix - - shank buttons, ø 0 mm, and - small two-hole buttons for reinforcement buttons The mélange side of the knit was used as the right side on the sample garment. Cut garment pieces from knit as indicated on list of pattern pieces, placing centerback edge on fabric fold and adding cm seam allowances to other edges. (except neckline seam) with straight stitch wrong sides together, so that seam allowances are visible on right side of garment. Press each seam open and trim seam allowances to mm straight after stitching seam. Fold pocket hems, bottom hem and sleeve-edge hems as well as hems at face edge of hood and front edges of front panels to right side and stitch them with flatlock stitch close to outer edge of hem allowance. Stitch flatlock stitching with flatlock stitch on serger or with decorative overedge stitch on regular sewing machine (e.g. honeycomb stitch). Pockets: Pin and stitch hems at opening edges of pockets. Stitch pockets to front panels with flatlock stitch as marked on pattern. Reinforce top corners of pockets with bar-tacks (short rows of narrow, short zigzag stitching). Joining: Pin front panels to back panel wrong sides together and stitch shoulder seams. Stitch sleeves to armholes. Stitch sleeve underarm seams and side seams. Fold, press and stitch. cm wide hems at bottom edges of sleeves and at bottom edge of garment. Pin hood panels wrong sides together and stitch top/back seam. Fold and press cm wide hem at curved face edge of hood and stitch it with flatlock stitch. Pin hood to garment s neckline wrong sides together and stitch with cm seam allowance using straight stitch. Trim neckline seam allowance on body of garment to mm, fold seam allowance on bottom edge of hood over it and stitch hood seam allowance to neckline with flatlock stitch. Draw - rectangles, each measuring cm x cm, on double-sided fusible web. Iron fusible web onto right side of knit and rectangles out along their outlines. Remove paper backing from fusible web and iron rectangles onto right side of right front edges of front panel and hood for buttonhole reinforcement, placing two rectangles on hood and top corner of front panel as marked on pattern and the rest below these, spacing them 7-9 cm apart. Stitch rectangles in place close to edge with straight stitch. Fold and press cm wide hems at front edges and stitch them with flatlock stitch. Sew top and bottom ends of hem with inconspicuous hand-stitches. Finishing: Stitch buttonholes in the middle of reinforcement pieces with straight stitch as marked on pattern (stitch around each buttonhole several times using short stitch length). Sew shank buttons on left front edge and sew reinforcement button under each button to secure it firmly to knit. front back sleeve hood pocket PATTERN SHEET C blue. Panda beanie 8--- cm (head circumference) Pages, beanie panel + ear + eye* PATTERN SHEET D lilac - 0 cm heavy-weight knit terry (CO/PES) and 0 cm organic-cotton single jersey (CO/EL), stretch/recovery 0-0% - piece of black cotton single jersey and piece of interfacing, Vlieseline H 80, for eyes and ears Cut beanie panels from both heavy-weight knit terry (exterior) and cotton single jersey (lining) as indicated on list of pattern pieces, placing center-front edge on fabric fold and adding 0 mm seam allowances to other edges. Cut ears from black single jersey with 0 mm seam allowances. *Cut eyes from black single jersey (pattern piece for eye includes seam allowances). Construction techniques: Stitch eyes and ears with straight stitch. Stitch other seams with serger or with overedge stretch stitch on regular sewing machine. Preparation: Cut interfacings for eye and ear pieces and fuse them in place (see areas shaded in grey on small-scale patterns). Cut holes in the middle of eye pieces along pattern line. Iron interfacing around eye holes on beanie lining, placing it outside stitching line, and eye holes on lining along pattern line. Eyes: Pin eye pieces to exterior beanie panel, with right side of eye piece facing wrong side of beanie panel, and stitch around holes. Cut eye holes on exterior beanie panel. Trim and clip seam allowances. Turn eye pieces to right side of exterior beanie panel and press edges of eye holes. Pin and baste outer edges of eye pieces to beanie panel. Stitch eye pieces to beanie panel close to edge with narrow, short zigzag. Ears: Pin ear pieces right sides together and stitch their curved edges. Trim seam allowances slightly, turn ears right side out and press them flat. Machine-baste bottom edges of ears together. Pin and stitch ears to exterior beanie panel as marked on pattern. Joining: Stitch darts on both beanie exterior and lining. Stitch top/back seam on beanie exterior and lining, leaving small opening for turning in back seam of lining. Place exterior and lining within one another right sides together and stitch their bottom edges together. Pull exterior and lining apart, fold beanie (still inside out) in half along bottom-edge seam, and pin and stitch top seams of exterior and lining together along bottom edges of ears. Turn beanie right side out through opening on lining. Pin bottom edge in position carefully and steam beanie. Turn seam allowances at eye hole edges on lining to wrong side, pin edges carefully to eye hole edges on exterior and sew around edges with inconspicuous handstitches. Close opening for turning on lining. Secure exterior and lining together with inconspicuous hand-stitches sewn along back seam for approx. cm up from bottom edge.

15 . Curly Print velveteen dress cm Pages, 7 Lining 7 Lining cm velveteen with slight stretch (CO/EL) cm viscose lining fabric (CV) - cm soft tulle (PA), width 0 cm - 0 cm interfacing, Vlieseline G 78 - invisible zipper, length cm Velveteen bodice front side bodice-front bodice back side bodice-back sleeve skirt front 7 skirt back Lining fabric + bodice front + bodice back skirt front 7 skirt back PATTERN SHEET D blue Shell: Cut shell pieces from velveteen as indicated on list of pattern pieces, placing center-front edges of bodice front and skirt front on fabric fold and adding 0 mm seam allowances to other edges of shell pieces. Take note of the direction of nap on velveteen. Lining: Join pattern pieces for bodice front and side bodice-front as well as for bodice back and side bodice-back to obtain pattern pieces for lining bodice front and bodice back. Trace pattern pieces for lining skirt observing markings on small-scale patterns. Cut lining pieces from lining fabric as indicated on list of pattern pieces, placing center-front edges of bodice front and skirt front on fabric fold and adding mm seam allowances to center-back edges and 0 mm seam allowances to other edges of lining pieces. Cut two 7 cm x cm pieces from tulle for ruffle at bottom hem of lining. serger or zigzag stitch. Press seams on shell open and finish seam allowances separately. Finish seam allowances on lining together. Stabilizing: Cut cm wide strips from interfacing for stabilizing neckline, armholes and waist seam allowances of shell and fuse them in place (see areas shaded in grey on small-scale patterns). Shell bodice: Pin and stitch side bodicefronts to bodice front right sides together. Clip seam allowances along curves. Press seams open and finish seam allowances. Stitch side bodice-backs to bodice backs in the same way. Pin and stitch shoulder seams. Neckline: Pin and stitch shoulder seams of lining. Stitch narrow hems at armholes of lining. Pin necklines of shell and lining right sides together and stitch neckline seam, starting and ending stitching cm away from center-back seamline. Clip neckline seam allowances along curves and trim them slightly. Understitch neckline seam allowances to lining. Press neckline gently. Skirt: Sew gathering stitches at top edges of shell and lining skirt panels as marked on pattern and gather edges to fit bodice sections. Pin and stitch waist seams of shell and lining and clip to stitching at center-front corner of each waist seam. Finish waist seam allowances together. Stitch side seams of both shell and lining. Finish seams. Zipper: Apply invisible zipper to centerback edges, following instructions for design. Sleeves: Stitch darts on sleeves. Sew rows of ease-stitching along sleeve caps as marked on pattern. Pull up bobbin threads of ease-stitching slightly and shape sleeve caps by steaming. Stitch underarm seams of sleeves. Finish raw bottom edges of sleeves. Fold up and press sleeve-edge hems and stitch them by hand with blind hemming-stitch. Pin and stitch shell sleeves to armholes of shell, right sides together. Tulle ruffle: Pin tulle pieces together and stitch side seams. Mark center-front and center-back points at top edge of tulle ruffle. Sew gathering stitches along top edge of ruffle. Gather ruffle and stitch it to bottom edge of lining right sides together, aligning center-front and centerback marks as well as side seams. Finish seam. Fold seam allowances toward lining skirt, topstitch seam close to seamline and press seam gently. Finishing: Finish raw bottom-hem edge of shell. Fold up and press bottom hem of shell and stitch it by hand with blind hemming-stitch. The bottom edge of the tulle ruffle need not be finished; only trim it even if necessary. Attach armholes of lining to armholes of shell at side seams.. Odette Tutu tulle skirt cm Page waistband skirt front and back PATTERN SHEET E grey cm cotton batiste (CO) cm veil tulle (PES), width m - elastic thread (suitable for bobbin thread) Gütermann Inner skirt and waistband: Cut garment pieces from cotton batiste as indicated on list of pattern pieces, placing center-front and center-back edges of pattern pieces on fabric fold and adding 0 mm seam allowances to other edges. Tulle skirt: Use the full length of veil tulle as specified on the list of materials for the tulle skirt. Sizes 9-0 cm: Make the tulle panel narrower by ting off 0 cm from one edge. serger or zigzag stitch. The raw bottomhem edge of the tulle skirt need not be finished. Waistline: Stitch side edges of waistband right sides together to form circle. Stitch narrow hem ( mm + mm) at top edge of waistband. Hand-wind elastic thread on sewing machine bobbin, stretching thread slightly. Stitch rows of elasticized shirring on waistband as follows: Use regular straight stitch, adjusting stitch length to.. and decreasing needle thread tension slightly. Stitch a total of six rows of shirring from right side of waistband, placing the first row 0 mm down from top edge of waistband and spacing the rest 0 mm apart. Pull fabric taut as you sew to make sure that rows of shirring will be straight and parallel. Move from one row to another by stitching-in-the-ditch along center-back seamline and secure thread ends at the beginning and end of shirring carefully. Note that shirring will not show straight after the first row of stitching and the shirred area is gathered to its final width only after steaming it with an iron. Joining: Stitch side edges of tulle panel together (seam will be placed at centerback). Mark waist edge of tulle skirt into quarters and sew gathering stitches along it. Gather tulle skirt, and pin and stitch it to waistband right sides together. Pin batiste skirt panels right sides together and stitch side seams. Stitch hem ( cm + cm) at bottom edge of skirt. Mark center-front and center-back points at waist edge of batiste skirt. Sew gathering stitches along waist edge and gather edge to fit waistband. Stitch batiste skirt to waistband right sides together, with tulle skirt in between. Trim bottom-hem edge of tulle skirt even.

16 . Pumpkin Pie jersey dress cm Pages - - total of cm printed and striped cotton single jersey (CO/EL), cm clear elastic tape, width mm, Framilon Cut up patterns for bodice front and bodice back as well as patterns for skirt front and skirt back into two separate pattern pieces along marked seamlines. Cut garment pieces from differentpatterned jerseys as shown in design sketch, placing center-front and centerback edges of skirt panels on fabric fold and adding 7 mm seam allowances to all other edges except neckline and bottom edges of sleeves. Cut also. cm wide binding strips from single jersey for finishing neckline and bottom edges of sleeves. If you use a binder attachment on your coverstitch machine to attach the bindings, the bind-ing strips in the width that fits the binder. Construction techniques: Stitch shoulder seams, sleeves to armholes, sleeve underarm seams and side seams with serger or with overedge stretch stitch on regular sewing machine. Stitch panel seams on front and back as well as waist seams with straight stitch, stretching edges of both garment pieces to be joined slightly as you sew. Press these seams open and topstitch them from right side with flatlock stitch on serger or with decorative overedge stitch on regular sewing machine (e.g. honeycomb stitch). See general instructions for finishing edges with binding on p.. Stabilizing: Cut pieces of clear elastic tape for shoulder edges on bodice back and stitch them to shoulder seam allowances (measure required length of tape on pattern and add seam allowances). Bottom edges of sleeves: Gather bottom edges of sleeves with clear elastic tape: two cm pieces of clear elastic tape and machine-baste them to right side of bottom edges of sleeves, placing them along outer edge of seam allowance and stretching them slightly as you sew. Finish bottom edges of sleeves with binding. Joining: Stitch bodice front panels right sides together. Stitch bodice back panels right sides together. Stitch skirt front panels right sides together. Stitch skirt back panels right sides together. Pin skirt sections to bodice sections and stitch waist seams. Steam garment sections lightly. Pin front and back right sides together and stitch left shoulder seam. Finish neckline with binding. Stitch right shoulder seam, fold seam allowances to one side and stitch them flat across neckline binding. Stitch sleeves to armholes. Stitch sleeve underarm seams and side seams. Fold underarm seam allowances to one side and stitch them flat across sleeveedge bindings. Fold up and press bottom hem as marked on pattern and stitch it with serger coverstitch or with twin needle on regular sewing machine. bodice front + bodice back + skirt front ++ skirt back ++ sleeve + PATTERN SHEET D red 7. Misty Day Palette frilled top cm Pages, 7-9 A B C D E A B C D E E-D-C-B-A front back sleeve outer front panel outer back panel frill A* frill B* frill C* frill D* frill E* PATTERN SHEET E orange cm pale-grey, 0 cm graphitegrey and cm black viscose single jersey (CV/EL), - 80 cm clear elastic tape, width mm, Framilon (If you intend to make a singlecolor top, the total fabric requirement is cm). Cut front, back and frills D and E from black, sleeves, outer front and back panels and frill A from pale-grey, and other garment pieces from graphite-grey single jersey as indicated on list of pattern pieces, placing center-front and center-back edges of patterns on fabric fold and adding 8 mm seam allowances to all other edges except neckline. *Note! Pattern pieces for frills include seam allowances. Frills must be exactly along pattern outlines, placing center-front and center-back edges of pattern pieces on fabric fold. Cut also. cm wide binding strip from single jersey for finishing neckline. If you use a binder attachment on your coverstitch machine to attach the binding, the binding strip in the width that fits the binder. stitch on regular sewing machine. Finish bottom edges of outer front and back panels as well as bottom edges of frills with serger rolled hem or with narrow, short zigzag. Stitch frills in place with flatlock stitch on serger or with decorative overedge stitch on regular sewing machine (e.g. honeycomb stitch). Stitch bottom hem and sleeve-edge hems with serger coverstitch or with twin needle on regular sewing machine. See general instructions for finishing edges with binding on p.. Stabilizing: Cut pieces of clear elastic tape for shoulder edges on back panel and stitch them to shoulder seam allowances (measure required length of tape on pattern and add seam allowances). Sleeves: Cut two cm pieces of clear elastic tape. Stitch tapes along both edges in the middle of sleeves as marked on pattern, stretching tape as you sew. Cut two 0 cm pieces of clear elastic tape and gather portion between pattern markings along each sleeve cap by machinebasting tape to sleeve-cap seam allowance. Fold up, press and stitch hems at bottom edges of sleeves as marked on pattern. Frills: Finish bottom edges of frills. Sew gathering stitches along top edges of frills using contrast-color thread. Gather frills, and pin and baste them to front and back panels as marked on pattern. Check that frills on front and back match exactly at side seams. Stitch frills in place close to edge with flatlock stitch. Remove gathering stitches and basting stitches. Baste ends of frills to side seam allowances. Fold up, press and stitch bottom hems on front and back panels as marked on pattern. Joining: Finish bottom edges of outer front and back panels. Pin outer front and back panels on top of inner front and back panels and machine-baste them together within shoulder, neckline, armhole and side seam allowances. Pin front and back right sides together and stitch left shoulder seam. Finish neckline with binding. Stitch right shoulder seam, fold seam allowances to one side and stitch them flat across neckline binding. Stitch sleeves to armholes. Stitch sleeve underarm seams and side seams. Fold underarm seam allowances to one side and stitch them flat across sleeve-edge hems.

17 8. Everyday Grey cotton skirt cm Pages 7-9 skirt front and back waistband bottom-hem trim PATTERN SHEET E green cm palegrey and cm graphite-grey cotton chambray (CO) - cm elastic, width mm Cut skirt front and back from pale-grey and waistband and bottom-hem trim from graphite-grey fabric as indicated on list of pattern pieces, placing center-front and center-back edges of skirt patterns and foldline edges of pattern pieces for bottom-hem trim and waistband on fabric fold and adding 0 mm seam allowances to other edges. Cut. cm x cm strip from graphite-grey fabric for drawstring. serger or zigzag stitch. Sew topstitching close to edge or seamline. Drawstring: Fold drawstring strip in half lengthwise and press. Turn seam allowances on long edges and ends in and stitch edges together. Joining, Waistline: Follow instructions for design (Meoow skirt with cat pockets). 9. Sugar Scull blazer cm Page front side front back side back sleeve upper collar 7 under collar front facing 8 pocket PATTERN SHEET E red printed stretch sweatshirt knit (CO/EL), stretch/ recovery 0% - 0 cm interfacing, Vlieseline G 78-0 cm fusible stay tape, Vlieseline Formband - 0 cm stretch grosgrain ribbon, width 0 mm - two buttons, ø mm Cut garment pieces from sweatshirt knit as indicated on list of pattern pieces, adding 0 mm seam allowances to all edges. serger or zigzag stitch. Sew topstitching using presser-foot edge as guide unless otherwise instructed. Stitch hems with serger coverstitch or with twin needle on regular sewing machine. Stabilizing: Cut interfacings for areas shaded in grey on small-scale patterns and fuse them in place. Cut pieces of stay tape for shoulder edges on back panel (measure required length of tape on pattern piece and add seam allowances). Fuse tapes to wrong side of shoulder seam allowances. Joining: Pin and stitch side fronts to front panels right sides together. Fold seam allowances toward front panels and topstitch seams. Pin and stitch side backs to back panel right sides together, fold seam allowances toward back panel and topstitch seams. Pin and stitch center-back seam. Topstitch seam. Finish raw top edges of pockets, and pin and stitch hems on them. Turn and press seam allowances on other pocket edges to wrong side. Pin and edgestitch pockets to front panels as marked on pattern. Stitch shoulder seams, fold seam allowances toward front panels and topstitch seams. Stitch side seams and press seam allowances toward back panel. Finish raw bottom-hem edge. Fold up and press bottom hem as marked on pattern. Collar and front facings: Pin collar pieces right sides together and stitch their outer edges together. Trim corners, press seams open and turn collar right side out. Press collar flat and topstitch its edges. Machine-baste open edges of collar together at the same time. Pin and stitch collar to garment s neckline, with right side of under collar facing right side of garment and aligning ends of collar with pattern markings at front neckline. Finish raw outer edges and shoulder edges of front facings. Pin and stitch front facings to garment s front edges and neckline, right sides together and with collar in between. Trim neckline seam allowances and clip them along curves if necessary. Pin and stitch one edge of grosgrain ribbon to back-neckline seam allowances, with ends of ribbon slightly overlapping front facings. Pin and stitch other edge of grosgrain ribbon to neckline, concealing neckline seam allowances. Trim corners, press seams open and turn front facings right side out. Stitch shoulder edges of front facings to shoulder seam allowances. Topstitch garment s front edges and front neckline from bottom hem to the point where collar is attached to neckline. Fold up, pin and stitch bottom hem. Sleeves: Sew rows ease-stitching along sleeve caps as marked on pattern and pull up bobbin threads to shape sleeve caps. Stitch sleeve underarm seams. Fold up, press and stitch hems at bottom edges of sleeves. Pin and stitch sleeves to armholes. Finishing: Stitch buttonholes and sew buttons at garment s front edges as marked on pattern.

18 0. More Stylish denim shirt cm Pages,, front yoke front +* front facing back yoke back sleeve 7 sleeve cuff 8 collar + 9 pocket + 0 cuff placket binding** 7 PATTERN SHEET B blue cm soft dark-grey denim shirt fabric (CO) - 0 cm pale-grey cotton chambray (CO) for pocket - 0 cm interfacing, Vlieseline H metal buttons, ø mm Cut front facings, under collar and left pocket from pale-grey fabric and other garment pieces from dark-grey fabric as indicated on list of pattern pieces, placing center-back edges of patterns on fabric fold and adding 0 mm seam allowances to other edges. * Note! Cut front panels one at a time: left front panel first, then fold away mm tuck (tuck forming edge of button band) on pattern piece for front and right front panel without tuck. **Pattern piece for cuff placket binding includes seam allowances. serger or zigzag stitch. Topstitch seams and edges with two parallel rows of stitching using pale-grey topstitching thread unless otherwise instructed. Stitch top buttonhole and button on front panel as well as bar-tacks and decorative stitching on pockets with green sewing thread. Stabilizing: Cut interfacings for areas shaded in grey on small-scale patterns and fuse them in place, i.e. for front facings, outer halves of sleeve cuffs and upper collar. Cuff placket: Construct cuff plackets following instructions for design 8. Front edges: Stitch front facings to front edges of front panels right sides together. First press seams open, then turn facings to wrong side and press edges thoroughly. Turn seam allowance on edge of facing on right front panel to wrong side and pin and stitch facing to front panel close to edge. Topstitch outer edge of right front panel close to edge. Press tuck fold along front edge of left front panel as marked on pattern. Topstitch outer edge of left front panel using presser-foot edge as guide (). Align edge of front facing with tuck foldline, fold front edge in three and topstitch along tuck fold using presser-foot edge as guide, concealing edge of facing within tuck (). Fold front edge in position and press it thoroughly. Pockets: Stitch hems at opening edges of pockets as marked on pattern. Turn and press seam allowances on other pocket edges to wrong side. Pin and stitch pockets to front panels: stitch all three edges of left pocket with two continuous parallel rows of stitching and stitch right pocket in the same way but leave cm gap in stitching on edge closest to armhole. Stitch two rows of decorative stitching that form a cross in the gap with narrow, short zigzag. Stitch vertical bartacks (= rows of reinforcing stitching sewn with narrow, short zigzag) at top corners of both pockets, placing them along inner rows of topstitching. Joining: Pin yokes to front and back panels and stitch yoke seams. Clip to stitching at corners in order to make seams lie smoothly. Finish seam allowances together, fold them toward yokes and topstitch seams. Stitch shoulder seams, fold seam allowances toward back panel and topstitch seams. Stitch sleeves to armholes, fold seam allowances toward body of garment and topstitch seams. Stitch sleeve underarm seams and side seams. Stitch narrow hem at garment s bottom edge. Collar, Sleeve cuffs: Follow instructions for design 8. Finishing: Stitch buttonholes on left front edge, placing top buttonhole cm below neckline seam and the rest at regular 8-9 cm intervals. Stitch top buttonhole and button on front panel with green thread and the rest with pale-grey thread. Stitch buttonholes and sew buttons on collar and sleeve cuffs as marked on pattern using pale-grey thread.. Old Skool cardigan cm Pages, Cut garment pieces from wool-blend knit as indicated on list of pattern pieces, placing center-back edges on fabric fold and adding 0 mm seam allowances to all other edges. Use paler side of knit as right side on collar, pockets and elbow patches. Construction techniques: Stitch shoulder and armhole seams as well as collar attachment seam as lapped seams with flatlock stitch as follows: overlap edges to be joined by combined width of seam allowances ( cm) and stitch seam close to edge of garment piece on the outside. Trim seam allowance from wrong side. Stitch other seams with straight stitch and finish them with serger or zigzag stitch. Stitch hems at opening edges of pockets, bottom edges of sleeves, garment s bottom edge and outer edge of collar with flatlock stitch. Stitch flatlock front back sleeve collar pocket elbow patch PATTERN SHEET E black stitching with flatlock stitch on serger or with decorative overedge stitch on regular sewing machine (e.g. honeycomb stitch). Pockets: Pin and stitch hems at opening edges of pockets. Stitch pockets to front panels with flatlock stitch as marked on pattern. Reinforce top corners of pockets with bar-tacks (short rows of narrow, short zigzag stitching). Elbow patches: Pin elbow patches to sleeves as marked on pattern and stitch cm double-face wool-blend knit (WV/PA) - piece of double-sided fusible web, Vlieseline Vliesofix - - wooden toggle buttons and wool yarn for sewing them them in place with flatlock stitch. Joining: Pin (and baste) shoulder edges of front and back panels together, with back shoulder edges on the outside, and stitch shoulder seams with flatlock stitch. Pin (and baste) sleeves to armholes, with armhole edges on the outside, and stitch armhole seams with flatlock stitch. Stitch sleeve underarm seams and side seams. Fold up and press hems at bottom edges of sleeves and stitch them with flatlock stitch. >>>

19 Collar: Make reinforcing pieces for buttonholes and buttons as follows: Draw 8-0 rectangles, each measuring cm x cm, on double-sided fusible web. Iron fusible web onto wrong side of knit and rectangles out along their outlines. Remove paper backing from fusible web and iron rectangles onto wrong side of outer edge of collar, placing top rectangles at left and right edges of collar as marked on pattern and the rest below these, spacing them 9-0 cm apart. Stitch rectangles in place close to edge with straight stitch. Pin (and baste) collar to garment s front edges and neckline, with collar seam allowance on the inside, and stitch collar to garment with flatlock stitch. Fold up, press and stitch cm wide hem at garment s bottom edge. Fold and press cm wide hem at outer edge of collar and stitch it with flatlock stitch. Sew bottomhem edges of collar by hand. Finishing: Stitch buttonholes on left front edge as marked on pattern, placing them on reinforcing pieces. Sew buttons on right front edge with wool yarn.. Peppi camisole cm Pages - A B Design A front back Design B upper front panel lower front panel back PATTERN SHEET F brown Design A cm floral cotton single jersey (CO/EL), cm picot-edge elastic, width 8 mm Design B - cm floral and cm fairytale-themed cotton single jersey (CO/EL), - cm red and orange ribbing (CO/EL) - three small buttons, ø 8 mm Design A: Cut garment pieces from single jersey as indicated on list of pattern pieces, placing center-front and centerback edges of pattern pieces on fabric fold and adding 8 mm seam allowances to other edges. Design B: Cut upper front panels from floral and other garment pieces from fairytale-themed single jersey as indicated on list of pattern pieces. Do not add seam allowances to neckline and armholes. Place center-front and center-back edges of pattern pieces on fabric fold and add 8 mm seam allowances to side-seam and bottom-hem edges. Cut. cm wide binding strips from ribbing for finishing neckline and armholes (orange ribbing for neckline and red for armholes). If you use a binder attachment on your coverstitch machine to attach the bindings, the binding strips in the width that fits the binder. stitch on regular sewing machine. Stitch bottom hem with serger coverstitch or with twin needle on regular sewing machine. Design B: See general instructions for finishing edges with binding on p.. Joining, design A: Stitch left shoulder seam. Cut pieces of picot-edge elastic for neckline and armholes; measure required lengths on pattern pieces (do not add seam allowances because pieces of elastic can be slightly shorter than edges to be finished). Mark both picot-edge elastic and neckline into quarters. Place elastic along neckline right sides together, aligning straight edge of elastic with outer edge of neckline seam allowance. Stitch elastic in place close to its picot edge with straight stitch, stretching both neck edge and elastic slightly as you sew in order to produce an elastic seam. Fold elastic right way up and stitch its straight edge to neckline from right side with serger coverstitch, or with twin needle or zigzag stitch on regular sewing machine. Stitch right shoulder seam. Finish armholes with picot-edge elastic in the same way as neckline. Stitch side seams. Fold up, press and stitch bottom hem as marked on pattern. Fold shoulder seam allowances at neckline and side seam allowances at armholes to one side and stitch them flat along elastic with short rows of back and forth stitching. Joining, design B: Pin upper front panels to back panel right sides together and stitch shoulder seams. Finish neckline and armholes with binding. Overlap centerfront edges and stitch them together along row of stitching on neckline binding. Stitch upper and lower front panels right sides together. Stitch side seams, fold side seam allowances to one side and stitch them flat across armhole bindings. Fold up, press and stitch bottom hem as marked on pattern. Sew buttons on mock front placket as embellishment.. Annica panties cm Page A B front back crotch lining PATTERN SHEET F lilac cm striped or printed cotton single jersey (CO/EL), - 0 cm elastic, width mm, for waist cm picot-edge elastic, width 8 mm, design A - cm ribbing (CO/EL), design B Design A: Cut garment pieces from single jersey as indicated on list of pattern pieces, placing center-front and centerback edges of pattern pieces on fabric fold and adding 8 mm seam allowances to other edges. Design B: Cut garment pieces from single jersey as indicated on list of pattern pieces, placing center-front and centerback edges of pattern pieces on fabric fold and adding 8 mm seam allowances to all other edges except edges of leg openings. Cut. cm wide binding strips from ribbing for finishing edges of leg openings. If you use a binder attachment on your coverstitch machine to attach the bindings, the binding strips in the width that fits the binder. stitch on regular sewing machine. Stitch waist casing with serger coverstitch or with twin needle on regular sewing machine. Design B: See general instructions for finishing edges with binding on p.. Joining: Pin front and back right sides together along crotch seamline. Also pin crotch lining to crotch seamline, with its right side facing wrong side of back panel, and stitch crotch seam. Turn front panel and crotch lining right way up, turn seam allowance at front edge of crotch lining to wrong side and stitch edge to front panel with straight or zigzag stitch. >>>

20 Design A: Cut two pieces of picot-edge elastic for finishing edges of leg openings; measure required length of elastic on pattern pieces (do not add seam allowances because pieces of elastic can be slightly shorter than edges to be finished). Mark both picot-edge elastic and edge to be finished into quarters. Place elastic along edge of leg opening right sides together, aligning straight edge of elastic with outer edge of seam allowance at leg opening and matching quarter marks. Stitch elastic in place close to its picot edge with straight stitch, stretching both leg opening and elastic slightly as you sew in order to produce an elastic seam. Fold elastic right way up and stitch its straight edge to leg opening from right side with serger coverstitch, or with twin needle or zigzag stitch on regular sewing machine. Stitch side seams. Fold side seam allowances at leg openings to one side and stitch them flat along elastic with short rows of back and forth stitching. Design B: Finish leg openings with rib binding. Stitch side seams, fold side seam allowances to one side and stitch them flat across bindings at leg openings. Both designs: Fold, press and stitch casing at waist as marked on pattern, leaving small opening for inserting elastic. Insert elastic into casing and stitch its ends together. Sew opening closed.. Mr. Bear long-sleeve T-shirt cm Pages, -7, - A B front back sleeve pocket, design A bear appliqué, design B PATTERN SHEET F blue cm solidcolor cotton single jersey (CO/EL), - piece of contrast-color cotton single jersey for pocket on design A and for appliqué on design B - 8 cm ribbing (CO/EL) - 0 cm fusible stay tape, Vlieseline Formband For appliqué, design B: - piece of double-sided fusible web, Vlieseline Vliesofix - piece of tear-away backing, Vlieseline Stickvlies Cut garment pieces from single jersey as indicated on list of pattern pieces, placing center-front and center-back edges of pattern pieces on fabric fold and adding 8-0 mm seam allowances to all other edges except neckline and bottom edges of sleeves. Note that pocket on design A is from contrast-color jersey. Cut also. cm wide binding strips from ribbing for finishing neckline and bottom edges of sleeves. If you use a binder attachment on your coverstitch machine to attach the bindings, the binding strips in the width that fits the binder. stitch on regular sewing machine. Stitch bottom hem with serger coverstitch or with twin needle on regular sewing machine. See general instructions for finishing edges with binding on p.. Stabilizing: Cut pieces of stay tape for shoulder edges on back panel (measure required length of tape on pattern piece and add seam allowances). Fuse tapes to wrong side of shoulder seam allowances. Pocket, design A: Finish raw opening edge of pocket and press hem on it as marked on pattern. Sew row of easestitching along curved edge of pocket. Make cardboard template with pattern piece for pocket. Lay pocket template on wrong side of pocket and pull up bobbin threads of ease-stitching to turn pocket seam allowances over edge of template to wrong side of pocket. Press pocket edges from right side. Pin and stitch pocket to front panel as marked on pattern. Appliqué, design B: Cut piece of double-sided fusible web that is slightly bigger than appliqué motif. Trace motif from pattern sheet on paper backing of fusible web. Iron fusible web onto wrong side of contrast-color single jersey and appliqué shape out along its outlines. Remove paper backing from fusible web and iron shape onto right side of front panel. Pin piece of tear-away backing to wrong side of front panel, under appliqué shape. Stitch shape in place close to edge with straight stitch (shorten stitch length and either use topstitching thread or stitch around shape twice). Remove tearaway backing. Joining: Finish bottom edges of sleeves with binding. Stitch left shoulder seam. Finish neckline with binding. Stitch right shoulder seam. Fold seam allowances to one side and stitch them flat across neckline binding. Stitch sleeves to armholes. Stitch sleeve underarm seams and side seams. Fold underarm seam allowances to one side and stitch them flat across sleeve-edge bindings. Fold up, press and stitch bottom hem as marked on pattern.. Tommy tank top cm Page 0 front back pocket PATTERN SHEET F black cm striped cotton single jersey (CO/EL), - piece of contrast-color cotton single jersey for pocket - 8 cm ribbing (CO/EL)

21 Cut garment pieces from single jersey as indicated on list of pattern pieces, placing center-front and center-back edges of pattern pieces on fabric fold and adding 8-0 mm seam allowances to all other edges except neckline and armholes. Note that pocket is from contrast-color jersey. Cut also. cm wide binding strips from ribbing for finishing neckline and armholes. stitch on regular sewing machine. Stitch bottom hem with serger coverstitch or with twin needle on regular sewing machine. See general instructions for finishing edges with binding on p.. Pocket: Construct pocket on front panel following instructions for design A. Joining: Stitch left shoulder seam. Finish neckline with binding. Stitch right shoulder seam. Fold shoulder seam allowances to one side and stitch them flat across neckline binding. Finish armholes with binding. Stitch side seams, fold side seam allowances to one side and stitch them flat across armhole bindings. Fold up, press and stitch bottom hem as marked on pattern.. Small John s long johns cm Pages 0- pants panel outer fly panel inner fly panel PATTERN SHEET D black cm printed organic-cotton single jersey (CO/EL), - cm ribbing (CO/EL) - 0 cm elastic, width 0 mm Cut garment pieces from single jersey as indicated on list of pattern pieces; add 8-0 mm seam allowances to all edges except edges of fly opening and bottom edges of legs. Cut. cm wide binding strips from ribbing for finishing edges of fly opening and bottom edges of legs. If you use a binder attachment on your coverstitch machine to attach the bindings, the binding strips in the width that fits the binder. stitch on regular sewing machine. Stitch topstitching on fly and crotch seams with flatlock stitch on serger or with suitable decorative overedge stitch on regular sewing machine (e.g. honeycomb stitch). Stitch waist casing with serger coverstitch or with twin needle on regular sewing machine. See general instructions for finishing edges with binding on p.. Preparation: Finish bottom edges of legs and edges of fly opening with binding. Finish raw bottom edge of inner fly panel with serger or zigzag stitch. Lay fly panels on top of each other, both right sides up, and machine-baste them together within seam allowances at their outer edges (note that top edge of inner fly panel is aligned with pattern markings for waist casing foldline). Joining: Fold pants panels in half right sides together and stitch leg inseams. Pin right edge of fly panel to right pants panel right sides together and stitch with straight stitch. Trim seam allowances if necessary, fold them toward pants panel and topstitch seam with flatlock stitch. Pin left pants panel to right pants panel and fly panel right sides together and stitch fly and crotch seam with straight stitch. Trim seam allowances if necessary, fold them toward pants panel and topstitch the entire seam from waist edge on front to waist edge on back with flatlock stitch. Finishing: Fold inseam seam allowances at bottom edges of legs to one side and stitch them flat across width of bindings. Fold, press and stitch casing at waist as marked on pattern, leaving small opening for inserting elastic. Measure and piece of elastic to fit the child s waist. Insert elastic into casing and stitch its ends together. Sew opening closed. 7. Polka Stripes camisole cm Pages - upper front panel* lower front panel back PATTERN SHEET F orange cm striped cotton single jersey (CO/EL), - 0 cm ribbing (CO/EL) - cm clear elastic tape, width mm, Framilon - three small buttons, ø 8 mm Cut garment pieces from single jersey as indicated on list of pattern pieces. Place center-front and center-back edges of pattern pieces on fabric fold and add 8 mm seam allowances to all other edges except neckline and armholes. *Note that upper front panels are on the bias. Cut. cm wide binding strips from ribbing for finishing neckline and armholes. If you use a binder attachment on your coverstitch machine to attach the bindings, the binding strips in the width that fits the binder. stitch on regular sewing machine. Stitch bottom hem with serger coverstitch or with twin needle on regular sewing machine. See general instructions for finishing edges with binding on p.. Joining: Cut clear elastic tape into two equal-length pieces. Gather center-front edges of upper front panel by machinebasting clear elastic tapes on them; place tapes between pattern markings and stretch them slightly as you sew. Pin upper front panels to back panel right sides together and stitch shoulder seams. Finish neckline and armholes with binding. Overlap center-front edges and stitch them together along row of stitching on neckline binding. Stitch upper and lower front panels right sides together. Stitch side seams, fold side seam allowances to one side and stitch them flat across armhole bindings. Fold up, press and stitch bottom hem as marked on pattern. Sew buttons on mock front placket as embellishment.

22 8. Thousand Dots leggings cm Pages -, - A B A A B B Design A +A pants front +A pants back Design B +B pants front +B pants back PATTERN SHEET F green cm printed organic-cotton single jersey (CO/EL), stretch/ recovery 0% (design A) cm organic-cotton single jersey (CO/EL), stretch/ recovery 0% (design B) - cm elastic, width 0 mm cm clear elastic tape, width mm, Framilon, (design B) Join pattern pieces + A and + A OR + B and + B before ting. Cut garment pieces from single jersey as indicated on list of pattern pieces, adding 8 mm seam allowances to all edges. stitch on regular sewing machine. Stitch waist casing and bottom-leg hems with serger coverstitch or with twin needle on regular sewing machine. Gathering on legs, design B: Cut clear elastic tape into four equal-length pieces. Machine-baste tapes to seam allowances along leg fronts, placing them between pattern markings and stretching them slightly as you sew. Joining: Pin pants fronts and backs right sides together and stitch side seams. Fold up and press hems at bottom edges of legs and stitch them with flatlock stitch. Stitch leg inseams. Fold inseam seam allowances at bottom edges of legs to one side and stitch them flat across bottomleg hems. Stitch crotch seam. Fold, press and stitch casing at waist as marked on pattern, leaving small opening for inserting elastic. Measure and piece of elastic to fit the child s waist. Insert elastic into casing and stitch its ends together. Sew opening closed. 9. Autumn Stripes raglan T-shirt cm Pages, - front back sleeve pocket PATTERN SHEET F red cm striped and a piece of solid-color organic-cotton single jersey (CO/EL), - cm ribbing (CO/EL) Cut pocket from solid-color and other garment pieces from striped single jersey as indicated on list of pattern pieces, placing center-front and center-back edges of pattern pieces on fabric fold and adding 8 mm seam allowances to all other edges except neckline and bottom edges of sleeves. Cut. cm wide binding strips from ribbing for finishing neckline and bottom edges of sleeves. If you use a binder attachment on your coverstitch machine to attach the bindings, the binding strips in the width that fits the binder. stitch on regular sewing machine. Stitch bottom hem and hem at opening edge of pocket with serger coverstitch or with twin needle on regular sewing machine. See general instructions for finishing edges with binding on p.. Pocket: Fold, press and stitch hem at opening edge of pocket as marked on pattern. Sew row of ease-stitching along curved edge of pocket. Make cardboard template with pattern piece for pocket. Lay pocket template on wrong side of pocket and pull up bobbin threads of ease-stitching to turn pocket seam allowances over edge of template to wrong side of pocket. Press pocket edges from right side. Pin and stitch pocket to front panel as marked on pattern. Joining: Pin sleeves to front panel, right sides together, and stitch raglan seams. Pin left sleeve to back panel and stitch left raglan seam on back. Finish neckline with binding. Stitch right raglan seam on back. Fold seam allowances to one side and stitch them flat across neckline binding. Finish bottom edges of sleeves with binding. Stitch sleeve underarm seams and side seams. Fold underarm seam allowances to one side and stitch them flat across sleeve-edge bindings. Fold up, press and stitch bottom hem as marked on pattern. Fabulous fabrics online: We also stock Vlieseline interfacings and Framilon clear elastic tapes. You can also place your order at your convenience by ing us at ottobre@ottobre.fi

23 EDGE FINISH WITH KNIT BINDING The binding can be either from ribbing or from the same knit as the rest of the garment. The most suitable knits are those that do not curl, such as interlock knit or rib knit. The binding can be stitched to the garment using a binder attachment on a serger. When using a binder, the binding is in the width specified by the serger instructions. The exact length of the binding cannot be specified in advance and you ll find the best technique for applying the binding by experimenting. The edge finish will be neat and look very professional. If you want to attach the binding on a regular sewing machine, use the following method.. Measure the length of the edge to be finished (=X cm) on the pattern piece.. Determine the length of the binding. Binding from the knit used for the actual garment (stretch/recovery 0-0%): length of binding = 0.8 x length of the edge to be finished, X cm Binding from ribbing (stretch/recovery 0-0%): length of binding = 0.70 x length of the edge to be finished, X cm Note! As the elasticity of different knits tends to vary, the length of the binding should be checked by experimenting on a piece of scrap fabric before applying the binding to the garment. Cut the binding in the width of. cm if the finished width of the binding is supposed to be 0- mm.. Applying the binding: Mark both binding and edge to be finished into quarters. Stitch one edge of binding to garment s edge, rights sides together, aligning quarter marks and stretching binding along curved portions of garment s edge. Use straight stitch on a regular sewing machine, or alternatively stitch on a serger. Stitching I. Fold the other edge of binding over to wrong side of garment s edge and topstitch binding with twin needle from right side close to edge. Stitching II. Neaten edge of binding on wrong side of garment by carefully trimming off excess seam allowance. Note! When finishing the neckline of a T-shirt with knit binding, stretch both the neck edge and the binding as you sew in order to produce an elastic seam. Pictured here is a binder for an industrial coverstitch machine. Corresponding binder accessories are also available for most home coverstitch machines. OTTOBRE design /0 Copyright Studio Tuumat Oy 0