QUALITY INSPECTIONS. Requirements & Procedures 2011/2012

Transcription

1 QUALITY INSPECTIONS Requirements & Procedures 2011/2012

2 TABLE OF CONTENTS 1. The Bon-Ton Stores, Inc. Policy Statement Pg.3 2. Introduction Pg Packaging Standard Pg General Inspection Procedure Pg Standard Inspection Package SIP Pg Scheduling Pg Completion of Inspection Pg Inspection Disposition Pg Inspection Charge and invoice Pg Best Practices Production Pg Garment Inspection Procedure Pg Appendix A Critical Measurements Pg Appendix B Classification of Defects Pg Forms Pg

3 POLICY STATEMENT A. This program is based on the mandate that merchandise purchased by The Bon-Ton Stores, Inc. (Bon-Ton) must be inspected to meet product specifications, all applicable laws and regulatory requirements. B. UL-STR has been designated to conduct Bon-Ton quality inspections for all required third party product inspections (at Bon-Ton s discretion) prior to shipment. The cost of these inspections are the responsibility of the vendor and/or factory. C. Vendor or factory inspections are not a substitution for this requirement. D. The third party inspection does not limit Bon-Ton s rights or diminish or remove vendor or manufacturers' responsibility and obligations under the Purchase Order Terms and Conditions. 3

4 INTRODUCTION The Bon-Ton organization is totally committed to providing our customers with only the highest quality merchandise available to meet the lifestyle requirements of the middle and upper income families in today's competitive market place. This program is designed to ensure a uniform understanding and implementation of Bon-Ton inspection requirements and procedures. Although we have tried to clearly define our requirements, if you have specific questions, please direct them to both parties below: Laura Whelan Client Services Manager UL-STR/ Bon-Ton 310 West Wisconsin Ave. 10 th floor west Milwaukee, WI Phone: ext 3694 Fax: laura.whelan@ul.com 1. PACKAGING STANDARD Please refer to the "Merchandise Logistics Standards" for more information There is virtually zero tolerance allowed for packing discrepancies during inspection of Bon-Ton s merchandise. The following packing discrepancies are unacceptable and would deem an inspection as failing Incorrect Hang Tag/Price Tag Incorrect information on Hang Tag/Price Tag Missing Hang Tag/Price Tag Damaged Hang Tag/Price Tag Altered Hang Tag/Price Tag Incorrect style/color/ratio in carton Incorrect packaging flat pack/hanger pack Unreadable or Missing UCC128 label on carton Wrong size carton 4

5 2. GENERAL INSPECTION PROCEDURES Initial Contact: For third party inspection programs the initial request for an inspection must be directed by Bon-Ton Product Development staff to the QA Department by submitting a Domestic Vendor Notification Form (DVNF see page 35). The notification should provide the following information: Who: What: Where: When: How many: (vendor, factory) (description of product, style, and etc., along with the product specifications or inspection criteria and approved reference sample) (inspection location, factory or warehouse name, address, contact name, phone number, etc.) (when inspection required, scheduled ship date) (total quantity of product) The QA Department will initiate a final inspection by forwarding the DVNF to the designated third party inspection service when received from Product Development. Please keep in mind that UL-STR will need 10 calendar days advance notice to arrange a final inspection. Waiting until the week of the vendor required ship date is too late. Note 1: Any consideration for waiving the third party inspection requirements must be approved by the Bon-Ton Stores, Inc. QA Department. Note 2: If a style has multiple deliveries within a season, or is a replenishment style, it will need to be re-inspected every 4 months assuming the initial inspection passed. 5

6 3. Standard Inspection Package (SIP) To ensure the best performance of the inspection and obtain the most reliable result, a Standard Inspection Package (SIP) Must be supplied by the factory. The SIP includes, but is not limited to the following items: 2 Preproduction samples or TOP samples An 8 x 8 inch fabric swatch for each approved color/print Bon-Ton approved wash shades should be provided (i.e. denim Pigment dye, etc.) Size specifications Sketches, photos, or drawing of the products. Approved actual accessories, hang tags and labels Assortment sheet indicating style number, quantity, delivery and color assortment. Packing instructions Any other information the factory deems important to the inspection All items contained in the SIP must be duplicates of what has been approved by Bon-Ton. 4. Scheduling The vendor is responsible to contact UL-STR a minimum of 10 calendar days prior to x-factory date. 5. Completion of Inspection The third party inspection service will issue an inspection report to the Bon-Ton QA Department and the vendor/factory within 24 hours of receipt of the inspector's detailed report of the inspection. However, all inspections will require a sign off by either Bill Grange or Laura Whelan before shipping. The inspector s field report will include, but is not limited to, the following information: Vendor name Style number Product description Inspection location Visual inspection defective units found summary Measurement audit summary and detail data sheet Carton inspection detail General conformity in regards to style, material, color, labeling, pre-packing size scale, shipping marks. 6

7 6. INSPECTION DISPOSITIONS If the result of the inspection passes the AQL adopted by the Bon-Ton QA Department, The final typed report and disposition will be ed within 48 hours to the vendor so that the shipment can be released. If there is a failing or doubtful result, the shipment will be rejected. UL-STR will notify the Bon-Ton QA Department immediately. A disposition will be communicated to the vendor and internally. The Bon-Ton QA Department will review the inspection report findings and determine the severity of deficiencies found with the appropriate Bon-Ton merchandising staff. If deficiencies found are considered to be commercially acceptable, the QA Department will release the final report with comments and acceptability. In cases where inspection results are deemed to be a concern and would result in unacceptable quality to be shipped to our stores, the Bon-Ton QA Department will meet with the appropriate merchandising staff to determine final disposition and communicate action steps to the factory/vendor accordingly. 7. INSPECTION CHARGE AND INVOICING Bon-Ton has negotiated favorable rates with UL-STR on behalf of our vendors and factories. UL-STR will bill the vendors directly for the cost of inspections. If merchandise is not ready for inspection on the date specified by the vendor and/or factory, or the inspectors are denied access to the facility, the vendor will be charged inspection cancellation charges, including any travel expenses incurred by UL-STR. Price list is available upon request through Laura Whelan (laura.whelan@ul.com) 7

8 Best Practices Production / Inspection Procedures STORAGE Fabric rolls need to be tagged with relevant information / identification. Dye lots need to be separated. All fabrics must be above ground level to avoid contamination. Proper shelving racks are critical to maintaining good inventory control. Trims must also be properly separated and stored. FABRIC INSPECTION Fabric rolls need to be tagged with relevant information / identification. The 4-point grading system should be employed by all mills and factories. The vendor must ensure consistent application across their entire factory base. Fabric inspectors within the factory require proper training. Fabric inspectors must cut swatches from the beginning of the roll and match the color shade to the middle and end of the roll. Fabric inspectors must build their own library of defects. Fabric inspectors must generate detailed reports to help factory management communicate effectively with the mills/factory production to resolve various problems. SPREADING & CUTTING Factories must select qualified employees to spread the fabric as this is a critical activity. Factory must be spread properly (to grain, not wavy, on line, correct nap direction, relaxed, etc.) Fabric cutters must be properly trained on correct cutting procedures. Fabrics must be cut in the same direction to ensure consistency. Proper clamps and pins must be used to hold down the fabric layers. This will avoid fabric shifting within the pile. Cutting rooms must have adequate lighting. This enables the cutters and spreaders to quickly identify shading and other fabric defects. Cutting rooms must be kept clean to provide safer work environment and to avoid contamination on finished product. 8

9 CUTTING INSPECTION Cutting inspectors must be properly trained to ensure the matching of all cut parts as well as ensuring color consistency. Cutting inspection forms must be standardized from one factory to another. Cutting problems must be reported to the sewing / production supervisor to ensure the necessary corrections are made. SEWING LINES In-line inspection procedures must be implemented to check collars, cuffs, necks, lap seams and placket assembly. This will ensure correct topstitching, symmetry, matching of shoulder seams at collar, correct lap seams and proper matching of stripes and plaids. Factories must position inspection stations within the sewing lines for checking major parts and assemblies. Critical parts and / or assemblies must be 100% checked instead of randomly audited. This will result in defective parts being identified. One operator and one inspector must be utilized for checking critical parts that have potential safety hazards, i.e. snaps on children s garments. Pre-production meetings must be held with the factory and critical inspection checkpoints must be established. Factories must avoid sewing dark color garments in the same sewing line with light color garments to avoid contamination. FINISHING LINE Finishing line operators must be properly trained to handle pressing equipment. This includes using the correct temperature based upon the fabric in question and avoiding heavy pressing that results in shiny appearance. Packaging area must be organized and properly supervised. This is a critical inspection checkpoint, as Bon-Ton has zero tolerance on packaging discrepancies. Supervisors must ensure that the correct hangtags, price tickets, etc. are provided to the proper production packing stations to avoid any possibility of mislabeling. Worktables should be cleared of all merchandise, tags / tickets (that are not applicable) prior to starting another size / color or style. 9

10 The Bon-Ton Stores, Inc. GARMENT INSPECTION PROCEDURES 1.0 PURPOSE 1.1 To describe the standard procedures for garment inspections for Bon-Ton. 2.0 APPLICATION 2.1 Applies to all garment inspections conducted for Bon-Ton. 3.0 PRE-INSPECTION 3.1 Bon-Ton will provide to UL-STR, authorization to conduct specific inspections by sending to UL-STR either (1) a listing of production orders (PO s)/styles/sku s to inspect, (2) a specific inspection request form, or (3) other appropriate written authorization Bon-Ton will indicate, on the garment inspection request form, changes to the inspection procedure, which apply to a particular inspection assignment. This will be done by writing ECEPTION in the comments section of the inspection request form, and identifying the specific change and/or instruction The inspection request will specify the types of inspections (in-line, final) to be conducted for a particular production order or shipment. 3.2 Bon-Ton will provide to UL-STR, a defect criteria list to be used by the inspector during the inspection. 3.3 Bon-Ton will provide to UL-STR, measurement specifications with points of measurement, tolerances, a how to measure guide and any technical information associated with the construction, trims, labeling, ticketing, packing, etc. of the item/s being inspected. 3.4 Bon-Ton will provide to UL-STR approval samples for the inspector/s to use as reference for style/construction/color/etc. 4.0 CONFIRMATION If/when approval samples are sent directly to the factory, the UL-STR Regional Coordinator will confirm with the factory, prior to the date of the inspection, that the approval sample package has been received and who will give it to the inspector. 4.1 The UL-STR Regional Coordination Center must provide confirmation of receipt of inspection information, inspection dates, and all related inspection processes, via or fax, to UL-STR and BON-TON. 10

11 The Bon-Ton Stores, Inc. GARMENT INSPECTION PROCEDURES 5.0 SCHEDULING 5.1 Scheduling of in-line and final inspections must be consistent with logic and reasonable production capabilities. Thus, a final inspection must not be scheduled nor conducted the day following the in-line inspection unless the total production quantity is so small it is reasonable that an in-line inspection can be conducted one day and then a full final inspection of completed product can be conducted the next day. 5.2 The factory will supply to the UL-STR Regional Coordination Center, the production status including PO, style, and quantities available. The factory will schedule the in-line and final inspection dates based on this information. Note, UL-STR will coordinate the inspection scheduling with the factory, but the authorization/request to conduct the inspection shall come from Bon-Ton. 5.3 The UL-STR Regional Coordination Center and factory agree on an inspection date. 5.4 UL-STR Regional Coordination Center assigns the inspection to an UL-STR inspector who conducts the inspection according to the requirements set by Bon-Ton and communicated to UL-STR. 5.4 UL-STR will not accept instructions nor modifications to the Bon-Ton /UL-STR procedures without written authorization from the Bon-Ton. 6.0 IN-LINE INSPECTION ( Only when required by BON-TON) 6.1 The following in-line inspection procedures are to be used in conjunction with the final inspection procedures outlined in Section 7.0 below when specifically requested by Bon-Ton. 6.2 The purpose of an in-line inspection is to help a new factory, the vendor and the Bon-Ton to identify potential problems early enough in the manufacturing process that they can be fixed and the quality of the product improved. 6.3 The in-line inspection shall be conducted on finished garments when the production stage is at least 20% complete and have been through the factory s own QC. Garments are not required to be packed. 6.4 Results of this inspection are discussed, in detail, with the factory management so that the factory can develop, and present to Bon-Ton, corrective action / preventative action plans that address any deficiencies found. Note: The UL-STR inspector cannot give opinion or advice regarding how to correct defects. 7.0 FINAL INSPECTION 7.1 The final inspection shall be conducted on finished garments when the production stage is 100% complete. Garments are required to be at least 80% packed and sealed, unless otherwise noted by Bon-Ton. 11

12 The Bon-Ton Stores, Inc. GARMENT INSPECTION PROCEDURES 7.2 UL-STR will inspect each Bon-Ton style individually and treat each as an individual lot for random statistical sampling purposes. However, each style (lot) can include various colors and size ranges and also multiple shipping destinations. These will be combined within one report. 7.3 The inspections are to be conducted in accordance with ANSI/ASQ Z , Normal Inspection, General Level II. The AQL is 0 for Critical defects, 2.5 for Major defects including critical measurement points that are out of tolerance, and 4.0 for Minor defects including non-critical measurement points that are out of tolerance. This requirement may only be changed, in writing, from Bon-Ton to UL-STR, and the written instruction must specify the orders where the change will be applied. Lot or Batch Size Sample Size 2.5 Major 2.5 AC / RE Sample Size 4.0 Minor 4.0 AC / RE 26 to / / 2 51 to / / 2 91 to / / to / / to / / to / / to / / to 10, / / 15 10,001 to 35, / / 22 35,001 to 150, / / ,001 to 500, / / ,001 and over / / Examples for sampling: Inspection of the sampled garments is explained as follows: Based on experience, a plain, simple garment such as a tee shirt or a skirt, without special trims or decorations, will take a minimum of 2 minutes to inspect. Inspecting a 200 piece sampling using 2 minutes per garment will incorporate but is not limited to the quality check, measurements, color matching and recording of discrepancies. Based on the above information, 200 garments x 2 minutes each = 400 minutes / 60 minutes per hour = 7 hours. The remaining time will consist of inspection set-up, sample selection, reporting and communications with factory representatives Items sold as a set (2 pc set, 3 pc set) must be viewed as individual items. Each item within the set requires it s own inspection and therefore increases the sampling. For example, a sampling of 200 pieces, for a 2 piece set, will be viewed as a 400 piece sampling and will require 2 man days (in most cases) to complete. 12

13 The Bon-Ton Stores, Inc. GARMENT INSPECTION PROCEDURES More complex garments such as coats, dresses, tailored garments, etc. will require additional inspection time. Therefore, the number of man day s required to complete a 200 piece sampling is be subject to increase to more than one man day Vendor s / Factory s must allow adequate timing when scheduling inspections to allow for proper sampling and inspecting to be performed Critical Defect: Any defect or feature of the product that may pose a safety hazard to the customer or end user. Zero tolerance will be applied to the acceptable quantity of critical defects found within a shipment. A critical defect will automatically render the inspection as rejected Major Defect: Anything that adversely affects the appearance, performance including fit or customer satisfaction, to a degree that would provide a discerning customer with justification of non-purchase, a return, or complaint Minor Defect: Any variation from the standard that is not sufficient in degree to be classified as major, and that would not provide a discerning customer with justification for non-purchase, a return, or complaint. 7.4 The inspector shall observe the inspection location. No inspection shall take place without adequate lighting. If the inspector feels the lighting is not sufficient, first request better accommodations. If none are available, the inspection shall proceed as scheduled, however, a comment shall be written on page one of the report stating that the inspection was conducted under less than optimum lighting. If the lighting is very bad so that it prohibits vision, then the report shall be marked as not ready. 7.5 Before starting the final inspection, the UL-STR inspector must receive a full and complete inventory list of all carton numbers in the shipment that are complete and ready for inspection. A copy of this carton inventory shall be attached to the inspection report. Only cartons shown on the carton inventory are to be inspected. The inspector shall perform the random sampling from only the cartons shown on the carton inventory The inspector shall record in the comments section on the report, the identification numbers of the cartons that are randomly selected for inspection If a carton inventory list is not available, the inspector must select a good random sample. Cartons must be chosen randomly from all available cartons, not just cartons that are conveniently accessible The inspector shall stamp each inspected carton with their individual UL-STR chop. Each carton must be chopped on all four sides. 13

14 The Bon-Ton Stores, Inc. GARMENT INSPECTION PROCEDURES 7.6 Unless arriving much earlier than scheduled, an inspector should never wait more than 2 hours for any inspection. If after waiting 2 hours, if the goods are not ready for inspection, the inspection must be rendered Not Ready. The factory will be required to reschedule the inspection. 7.7 Garments must be inspected for workmanship and construction defects Inspectors must thoroughly check seams for stitching defects including pocket pouches, plackets should be even side to side, inseam lengths must be even at snap areas. Garments must fully be turned inside out and seams and stitching must be checked thoroughly for broken/missed stitches, sloppy stitching, notched fabric under stitching and any other fabric or stitching defects that could be found on the outside of a garment Inspector shall pull on buttons, snaps, etc. to make certain they are securely attached (see critical defects) Buttons, snaps, zippers, Velcro, etc. must be checked by the inspector to verify they work/function properly Inspectors must pay careful attention to zipper function and determine if the zipper "stop" device functions correctly. This process must be conducted by both of the following 2 methods. 1) With the zipper "teeth" not connected and with the two front panels of the garment in the open/separated/not connected position - pull the zipper head to the upper most position and then to the lower most position and determine if the zipper head is stopped at both the top and bottom positions 2) With the zipper teeth connected/engaged and with the teeth of the 2 panels zipped together, pull the zipper head to the upper most position and to the lower most position. If the zipper head becomes separated/detached/comes off, this is considered a small part and is a Critical Defect on all children s garments and a Major Defect on other garments. This condition is of particular concern on tops and jackets Embroidered areas must be checked for untrimmed threads. If excessive threads or nonwoven backing are found, this must be noted in the comments All button and button hole sewing must be lock stitched to prevent sewing threads unraveling and resulting in buttons dropping off or fraying of buttonholes Inspectors shall check for pocket placement, shape and evenness of pockets. They should be consistent in shape, size and placement garment to garment as well as side to side on the same garment. Defective pockets include: distorted in shape, placed hi-low to each other, placed crooked or at differing angles, inconsistent in size, shape or placement garment to garment, etc. 14

15 The Bon-Ton Stores, Inc. GARMENT INSPECTION PROCEDURES Labeling information should be checked against the information provided by Bon-Ton. If a label is missing, wording is misspelled or wording is not readable, this is considered a major defect. Labeling shall be checked on all measured garments When no standard is provided, any shading variation visible to the inspector, within a garment or garment to garment, is not acceptable. If any shading is observed, the inspection must be placed on hold and the quantity and range of shades must be reported in the comments section of the report When shading is not evident, the inspector must comment on the report. For example: No shade variation within a garment or garment to garment Garments taken from the first carton must be compared to the next carton, etc. to insure that color, appearance, overall size, hand/feel, etc. are the same % RULE: If an inspection passes, but one defect type is equal to 50% or more of the allowable defects, the inspection must be placed on hold pending the Bon-Ton s decision. State in the comments section on the report that the reason for the inspection being placed on hold is due to the 50% defect rule and include a description of the defect type found. Multiple defects must also be considered when determining if the 50% rule applies (in the example below, some of the 11 holes may have been part of multiple defects). Example: AQL = AC: 21 RE: 22 Inspection results: 18 major defects 11 of the 18 defects are holes (11 is greater than 50% of the allowable defects 21 ) Action: Inspection is placed on hold because 11 defects are greater than 50% of the 21 major defects allowed. 7.9 Inspector must identify all defects by applying a piece of colored tape or appropriate marker on the garment, near the defect Inspectors will send, by express courier, representative defect samples (repetitive or otherwise noteworthy) from each rejected inspection. These will be shipped, via express courier, to the following: Attention: Laura Whelan THE BON-TON STORES, INC. 10 th fl 310 West Wisconsin Avenue Milwaukee, WI

16 8.0 MEASUREMENTS The Bon-Ton Stores, Inc. GARMENT INSPECTION PROCEDURES Whenever defect samples are sent to BON-TON after an inspection, a copy of the handwritten, draft report must be included with the shipped sample/s. In the event the draft report is not written in English, it must still be included, but in addition, must be faxed, for translation, to the UL-STR Regional Coordination Center responsible for that inspection. Either an (English) copy of the draft report or the final report must, be faxed or ed to the Bon-Ton within one business day of the inspection. The Bon-Ton Stores, Inc. Fax#: The Bon-Ton Stores, Inc. laura.whelan@ul.com Samples sent to BON-TON must be packaged and shipped by the UL-STR inspector. If it is absolutely necessary to ship the package from the factory, the packages must be sealed with UL-STR tape by the inspector. If UL-STR tape is not available, the inspector must close the box, write their signature over all/every seam on the box, or apply their UL-STR inspector stamp (chop mark), and cover the signature (or stamp/chop mark) with clear tape. 8.1 Bon-Ton will supply measurement specifications to UL-STR for each inspection assignment. A Bon- Ton approved measurement guide (how to measure), for each assignment, must also be provided to UL-STR for forwarding to the UL-STR Regional Coordination Center and the inspector. 8.2 Measurements are to be checked on 10% of the sample size but a minimum of 3 garments per size. 8.3 All measured garments must also be inspected for quality defects If one garment has a quality defect and a measurement defect, this is to be listed on the report as a multiple defect. Indicate on the measurement chart which measured garment also had the quality defect. 8.4 If a measurement is within tolerance, place a check mark ( ) in the space. If the measurement is out of tolerance, the actual measurement must be reported All out of tolerance measurements defined by Bon-Ton as critical are recorded in the 2.5 AQL as a major defect. The balance of measurements taken during the inspection that are found to be out of tolerance will be defined as non-critical and recorded in the 4.0 AQL as a minor defect Bon-Ton must provide tolerances and identify any measurements that are classified as critical on the specification. The UL-STR inspector will be required to pay particular attention to that concern and provide specific comment on the report describing the findings regarding that concern If critical measurements are not identified on the clients specification, UL-STR will follow the critical measurements outlined in Appendix A of this manual in addition to any published dimensions on the production or packaging (i.e. Home) 16

17 The Bon-Ton Stores, Inc. GARMENT INSPECTION PROCEDURES 9.0 DEFECT LABELING 9.1 ALL DEFECTS ON A GARMENT MUST BE TAGGED. IF THERE IS MORE THAN ONE DEFECT ON A SINGLE GARMENT, THIS IS CONSIDERED A MULTIPLE DEFECT AND SHOULD BE LISTED AS A MULTIPLE DEFECT ON THE REPORT. The garment is only counted as defective once. 9.2 Inspector must be consistent when using terms to describe defects. 9.3 Defects must be marked with colored tape. 9.4 Each defective garment must have an orange, self-adhesive sticker attached with defect(s) circled on the tag. The sticker must be on the garment, not on a plastic bag. The garment information only has to be completed on the garments sent to the Bon-Ton. The garments remaining factory only need the report tracking number and date, in addition to the defects circled on the orange tag. The defects marked with colored tape and major or minor circled on the garments (this can be accomplished by attaching a defect sticker to every defective garment as it is inspected, circling the defect and circle major or minor on the sticker). 9.5 Defect Identification The inspector must make certain that all information on the defect sticker or card sent with a defect sample is labeled identically to the information on the report REPORTING 10.1 Upon completion of the inspection, the report and inspection findings must be reviewed with an authorized factory representative. Every defect must be shown to the factory representative Following the review of the report and inspection findings, the factory representative will be asked to sign the inspector s draft copy of the report. If the representative refuses to sign, print the persons name on the report and state that he/she refused to sign The inspector shall fax the report to the inspection coordinator at their UL-STR regional coordination center The UL-STR regional inspection coordinator shall review the report for accuracy and correct content and then forward it to the appropriate U.S. project/program coordinator within one business day after the inspection is completed The U.S. project/program coordinator will forward the report to the Bon-Ton. 17

18 The Bon-Ton Stores, Inc. GARMENT INSPECTION PROCEDURES 11.0 DEFECT CLASSIFICATION 11.1 Major and minor garment and fabric defects are listed and classified in Appendix B. The Bon-Ton must advise UL-STR of any additions or modifications to Appendix B Inspections conducted on children s garments must take into account, safety concerns. Therefore, any pieces including buttons, snaps or other attachments that are loose or not securely attached and can fit into the CPSC small part cylinder will be considered critical defects. NOTE: This does not ensure compliance to federal regulations RE-INSPECTIONS 12.1 Re-inspections are to be scheduled and conducted only when the shipment has been 100% sorted and reworked and 100% packed and sealed for shipment. A complete inventory list of carton numbers shall be provided in advance of the re-inspection No re-inspection may be scheduled on the same day as the first inspection unless specifically requested by the Bon-Ton. The factory or vendor cannot request a re-inspection Only if a program is vendor driven may a re-inspection be scheduled at the request of the vendor CANCELLED OR TERMINATED INSPECTIONS 13.1 The UL-STR Regional Coordination Center must be notified a minimum of one business day to the scheduled inspection to cancel or postpone an appointment. Additional advance notice may be necessary if the inspector is required to travel to the inspection location If timely advance written cancellation notice is not received by the UL-STR Regional Coordination Center responsible for the inspection, the Bon-Ton or other responsible party will be billed for one full man-day and all travel and out of pocket expenses incurred. If timely notice is provided to UL- STR, there will not be a charge 13.3 If an inspection is started and, at the request of a factory representative or agent, the inspection is stopped prior to completion, this shall be considered a terminated inspection The inspector shall record all inspection findings observed up to the point of termination The inspector shall obtain from the factory representative or agent, the reason why the inspection was stopped and record this in the comments section of the inspection report. Comments must also include the total number of samples inspected at the time the inspection was aborted. The name of the person who stopped the inspection shall be reported and the factory representative shall sign the hand written report Bon-Ton or other responsible party will be billed accordingly for one full man-day and all travel and out of pocket expenses incurred. 18

19 The Bon-Ton Stores, Inc. GARMENT INSPECTION PROCEDURES 14.0 TESTING 14.1 If applicable, upon receipt of a testing request form from Bon-Ton, the UL-STR Regional Coordinator will determine the required number of samples needed, per size, color, and style. The UL-STR Regional Coordinator will obtain this information from the appropriate UL-STR laboratory that will conduct the testing. The UL-STR Regional Coordinator will instruct the inspector to randomly select the required samples and arrange for the samples to be shipped to the appropriate UL-STR laboratory. The UL-STR Regional Coordinator will forward the appropriate UL-STR testing request form to the UL-STR laboratory that will perform the testing. Note: UL-STR will name and assign a technical services representative who will review the testing reports INVOICING 15.1 UL-STR will invoice the vendor for each in-line and each final inspection at the agreed to man-day rate plus appropriate out of pocket expenses, such as transportation, communication, shipping, hotel and meals when overnight stays are required; and other specifically identified expenses required to conduct, document, and complete the inspection and report Re-inspections will be conducted upon receipt of confirmation from Bon-Ton and will, likewise, be invoiced to the vendor at the agreed to man-day rate plus out of pocket expenses. 19

20 APPENDI A CRITICAL MEASUREMENTS Tops Neck Stretched: Neck Width A minimum neck stretch measurement must be provided by the Bon-Ton for garments that require pulling over the head. Collar band button to button hole Across Shoulder Chest / Bust from 1 below armhole (unless otherwise specified) Sweep Body Length from HPS (unless otherwise specified) Sleeve Length Sleeve Opening Arm Hole/ Arm Hole Depth Bottoms Waist Relaxed Waist Extended (if elastic waist) Hips or seat from 8 down from waist (unless otherwise specified) Thigh from 1 down from crotch (unless otherwise specified) Front Rise Back Rise Leg Opening ( also for swim Liner) 20

21 Inseams: Check for difference in length when the inseam is closed by snaps or buttons. If top and bottom of snaps are not perfectly aligned, some unevenness in length from front inseam panels to the back. The tolerance must be provided by the Bon-Ton. Dresses Neck Stretched: Neck Width A minimum neck stretch measurement must be provided by the Bon-Ton for garments that require pulling over the head Across Shoulder Chest/Bust from 1 below armhole (unless otherwise specified) Sweep Body Length from HPS Hip 8 down from waist (unless otherwise specified) Sleeve Length Arm Hole/ Arm Hole Depth Skirts Waist Relaxed Waist Extended (if elastic waist) Hips or seat from 8 down from waist (unless otherwise specified) Length from waist Sweep 21

22 APPENDI B CLASSIFICATION OF DEFECTS Defect Definitions Defects are classified into three main categories: - (1) Critical Defects (2) Major Defects (3) Minor Defects The classified defects can then be divided into three sub-categories: - (a) Material Defects (b) Production Defects (c) Packaging Defects For a clearer understanding of how to classify defects, the following definitions are taken from the the ANSIZ Critical Defect A critical defect is a defect that judgment and experience indicate is likely to result in hazardous or unsafe conditions for individuals using, maintaining or depending upon the product. To simplify, a critical defect usually contravenes legal requirements, particularly safety legislation. It is important to understand that the detection of just one critical defect will fail the shipment. Major Defect A major defect is a defect, other than critical, that is likely to result in failure or to reduce materially the usability of the unit of product for its intended purpose. In simple terms, a major defect is likely to result in product failure, either initially or within a short period of time. A major defect will result in the enduser rejecting and returning the product. Minor Defect A minor defect is a defect that is not likely to reduce materially the usability of the unit of product for its intended purpose. In other words, a minor defect may cause some end-user dissatisfaction but may not cause the end user to reject and return the product. List of Defects The lists of defects and their classifications on the following pages are intended as a guide. Sound judgment and experience are important factors in deciding whether the defect renders the item Second Quality. 22

23 Defect Classification Lists Woven Fabric Defects MAJOR MINOR Burl Mark - A distortion caused by removing a thick slub or waste yarn with a burling tool. The defect appears as an open space in the fabric. End out - A missing warp yarn caused by yarn breaking and loom continuing to run. The defect appears as a thin line. Fly - Small fibers spun into the yarn during spinning. Hole - Caused by broken yarns in either warp or weft direction. Jerk-In - An extra piece of filling yarn jerked part way into the fabric by the shuttle. The defect appears at the selvage. Knots - Where two ends of yarn have been tied together. Reed Mark / - Resulting from a bent reed wire which causes the Open Reed warp ends to be held apart and expose the filling yarn. The defect appears as a fine lined thin place in the warp direction. Slub - A short, thick place in the yarn or an extra piece of yarn woven into the fabric. Soiled Filling - Filling or warp yarns soiled by dirt or grease. Thin Place - An area across the fabric width with less picks or lighter filling than that normal to the rest of the fabric. Defect Classification Lists Knitted Fabric Defects Barre - Resulting from uneven yarn, uneven tension or yarns with differing dye affinities. The defect appears as irregular, horizontal streaks. Birdseye - Unintentional erratic tucking caused by a malfunctioning needle. The defect usually appears as two small distorted stitches side by side. Dropped Stitch - A stitch is not formed because of a malfunctioning needle. The defect appears as holes or missed stitches. Hole - Caused by a broken needle. Needle Line - Distorted stitches caused by a bent needle. The defect appears as a vertical line. 23

24 MAJOR MINOR Press-off - Where fabric fails to knit and either falls off the machine or the design is completely disrupted or destroyed. Bad press-offs usually start a new roll of fabric. Run - Unformed stitches caused by a broken needle. The defect appears as a vertical line of unformed stitches. Slub - Caused by a thick place in the yarn or by lint getting onto the yarn feeds. Defect Classification Lists Fabric Finishing Defects Bowing - Usually caused by distortion of fabric during finishing. The woven filling yarns, or course rows in knit fabrics, lie in an arc across the fabric width. on stripes, plaids or patterns. Bowing - Usually caused by distortion of fabric during finishing. The woven filling yarns, or course rows in knit fabrics, lie in an arc across the fabric width. on solid colors and with an agreed standard. Color Out - Caused by color running low in the reservoir on the printing machine. The defect appears as blank patches in the print pattern. Color Smear - Caused by the color being smeared during printing. The defect appears as blurred edges and distortion to pattern. Crease Mark - Caused by fabric folds during finishing process. The defect appears as a crease line which cannot be pressed out. Pin Holes - Caused by pins holding the fabric out to width during finishing process. The defect appears as holes along the selvage in the finished product. Pin Holes - Caused by pins holding the fabric out to width during finishing process. If the pin holes are not visible in the finished product. Print out of Register - Caused by print rollers being out of synchronization. The defect appears as pattern distortion. Scrimp - Caused by fabric being folded or creased during printing. The defect appears as areas which are not printed. Water Spots - Caused by fabric being left too long before drying. The defect appears as blotches or spots of different colors. 24

25 Defect Classification Lists Production Defects MAJOR MINOR Cutting Defects Grain Line - a) Component parts cut off-grain or on wrong grain. b) Component parts cut on inverted or opposite grain on pile, nap, one way design fabrics. c) Any component not cut according to specified stripe or pattern matching requirements. Size - Component parts not cut to correct pattern size. depending on degree of variance from pattern and on tolerance allowed. Drill Holes - Drill holes, used to locate position of pockets, end of dart etc., which will not close or are exposed after setting pocket etc. Notches - Notches cut too deep to be contained within the seam allowance and are exposed as a hole after seaming. Fusing Defects De-Lamination - Also bubbling, both caused by incorrect fusing cycle, temperature or use of incompatible fusible. Must also ensure de-lamination does not occur after following care instructions. Strike Through/ Strike Back Caused by use of either incompatible fusible or incorrect fusing cycle. Fabric Discoloration- Caused by incorrect fusing. Construction Defects Fabric - Substitution of fabric other than specified. Components - Substitution or omission of any component part. Color Deviation - Substitution or poor match of color or pattern compared to approved swatches and lab dips. Shading - Mis-matching of panels and components or garments within a set. Soiling - a) Any conspicuous oil mark, spots, stains or soiling. b) Any rings or marks left after removing spots, stains or oil. c) Any visible ink, pencil or chalk mark. Style - Substitution of style or features other than specified. 25

26 MAJOR MINOR Seam and Stitch Defects Seam Type - Substitution of seam-type not previously approved. Stitch Type - Substitution of stitch-type not previously approved. Stitch Tension - Loose stitch tension or poorly balanced stitch resulting in seam grin. Tight stitch tension - Resulting in seam pucker. SPI - Stitches per inch more or less than specified stitches. +/- 2 stitches per inch. Per Inch) SPI - Stitches per inch more or less than specified stitches. +/- 1 stitch per inch. Thread Type / Size - Use of monofilament thread or non-specified thread type Thread Color - a) Use of non-specified thread color or mis-matched thread color. b) Looper or bobbin thread color not matching top stitching color UNLESS SPECIFIED. Sewing Defects Broken Stitch - a) Unacceptable in a functional or decorative seam. b) A single broken stitch in a non-functional seam. (e.g. merrowed edge on an open-pressed seam) Skip Stitch - a) A single skipped stitch in a stitch type which will unravel (usually a chain stitch). b) A single skipped stitch in a lockstitch seam PROVIDING THE THREAD IS NOT BROKEN. Seam Repair - a) Conspicuous or poor seam repairs affecting appearance or serviceability. b) Seam repair not sewn stitch on stitch with stitches at each end overlapping by a minimum 3 stitches in 10 SPI count and without back stitches at each end. Open Seam - Caused when the sewing operator does not catch all plies of fabric into the seam. Burst Seam - Caused by either broken stitches or poor joining within the seam. Cracked Seam / Cracked Stitches - Any seam or line of sewing which does not fully extend with the fabric without cracking / popping stitches. 26

27 MAJOR MINOR Back Stitching - a) Thread break or ends of stitching not securely back stitched (except when caught into other seams). b) Over stitch or back stitch not sewn stitch on stitch and out by more than 1/16. Run-Off Run-offs on edge stitching or top stitching. Conspicuous Stitching stitching over-run onto other parts of Over-Run - garment which is not intended. over 2 stitches Over-Run - garment which is not intended up to 2 stitches Top Stitching - Top stitching not straight or not parallel. Raw Edges - Unfinished hems or seams with raw edges which will fray. Felled seams where fabric is not folded into seam and caught into stitching. Seam Pucker - Any seam distorted by twisting, roping, pleating, puckering or stretching which affects the appearance. Uneven Seam - Seam lengths uneven in excess of ¼. Unrelated Seam - Any part of garment caught into an unrelated seam or operation. Waste - Any waste sewn into the outside of the garment or visible when the garment is worn. Stay Stitching - Any stay stitching not completely concealed or removed e.g. at sleeve cap. Needle Damage - Any needle chews or holes which could develop into fabric damage. Collar Points - a) Variation in collar points. over 1/8 difference. Fabric - b) Incorrect distribution of fabric between top and under collar causing under collar to roll out; or excess fullness on top collar. Balance - c) Balance of collar out, collar looks twisted / distorted when fastened. Collar Points - a) Variation in collar points. less than 1/8 difference.` Balance - b) Balance of collar out, collar looks twisted / distorted when fastened. less than 1/8 difference. Darts Size - a) Not identical in size, length or angle. Over 1/8 difference Stitching - b) Stitching line crooked and not tapered correctly causing end of dart to nipple / dimple. Drill Holes - c) Drill holes exposed after stitching. 27

28 MAJOR MINOR Darts Size - a) Not identical in size, length or angle less than 1/8 difference. Stitching - b) Stitching line crooked and not tapered correctly causing end of dart to nipple / dimple. Pockets Reinforcement - a) Corners not reinforced by either back stitching or bar tacks. Size / Shape - b) Paired pockets not uniform in size and shape. Over 1/4 difference. Location - c) Misaligned, hi / lo pocket placement. Over 1/4 difference. Drill Holes - d) Drill holes not covered by pocket placement. Pockets Size / Shape - a) Paired pockets not uniform in size and shape. More than 1/4 difference. Location - b) Misaligned, hi / lo pocket placement. less than 1/4 difference Pocket Flaps Size / Shape - a) Paired pocket flaps not uniform in size and shape. over 1/4 difference Opening - b) Pocket and opening not fully covered by pocket flap. Alignment - c) Misaligned / Crooked pocket flap placement. more than 1/8 out of line. Location - d) Conspicuously not centered over pocket. Fabric - e) Incorrect distribution of fabric between top and under flap causing under flap to roll out; excess fullness on top flap. Pocket Flaps Size / Shape - a) Paired pocket flaps not uniform in size and shape. less than 1/4 difference. Alignment - b) Misaligned / Crooked pocket flap placement. less than 1/8 out of line. Facings Roll Out - a) Facings too full and rolling out or bubbling. Tight - b) Facings too small and pulling or causing hiking. Plackets Top Edges - a) Top placket lower than bottom placket at neckline / top edge. more than ¼ Bottom Edges - b) Bottom placket longer than top placket at hemline/ lower edge.more than 1/4. Alignment - c) Top and bottom placket misaligned at front edge. more than 1/8. Location - d) Front placket off-center in excess of 1/4. 28

29 Plackets Top Edges - a) Top placket lower than bottom placket at neckline / top edge. less than 1/4. Bottom Edges - b) Bottom placket longer than top placket at hemline / lower edge. less than 1/4. Alignment - c) Top and bottom placket misaligned at front edge. less than 1/8. MAJOR MINOR Sleeves Setting - a) Set into wrong / opposite armholes. Balance - b) Incorrect setting into armhole causing sleeve to be out of balance and pitched too far forward / backward. Sleeve pitch is essential in the fitting of jackets. Length - c) Sleeve lengths varying by more than 3/8. Alignment - d) Misalignment of sleeve / underarm seam (cross-over / tie-in) in excess of 3/8. Sleeve Cuff - Plain Hem Size - a) Left and right cuff widths must measure the same. over 1/8 difference. Sleeve Cuff - Plain Hem Size - a) Left and right cuff widths must measure the same. less than 1/8 difference Shirt Cuff Size - b) Cuffs not uniform in size and shape. over 1/8 difference. Fabric - c) Incorrect distribution of fabric between top and under-cuff causing under cuff to roll out, excess fullness in top cuff. Attachment - d) Seam closure causing step at cuff in excess of 1/8. Shirt Cuff Size - b) Cuffs not uniform in size and shape. less than 1/8 difference. Waistband Alignment - a) Misalignment of waistband over and underlap at fastening. more than 1/8 Width - b) Uneven width more than 1/8 Waistband Alignment - a) Misalignment of waistband over and underlap at fastening. less than 1/8. Width - b) Uneven width less than 1/8. 29

30 MAJOR MINOR Belt Loops Location - a) Missing or misplaced. Angle - b) Slanted / Set at an angle crooked. more than ¼ Attachment - c) Not securely attached. Width - d) Width not as specified. more than 1/8 Length - e) Length / Opening not as specified. more than 1/4. Seam - f) Open seam in belt loop construction. Trimming - g) Turnings of loop not fully trimmed. Belt Loops Angle - b) Slanted / Set at an angle / crooked. less than 1/4. Width - d) Width not as specified. less than 1/8. Length - e) Length / Opening not as specified. less than 1/4. Pants Alignment - a) Misalignment of crotch seams in excess of 1/4. Size - b) Left and right leg hem widths must measure the same. For Plain Hemmed Leg Ends: over 1/4 difference. For Ribbed Cuffs: over 1/8 difference Length - c) Leg lengths varying more than 3/8. Seams - d) Twisted legs in excess of 1/2 outseam off from inseam. Pants Size - a) Left and right leg hem widths must measure the same. For Plain Hemmed Leg Ends: less than 1/4 difference. For Ribbed Cuffs: less than 1/8 difference Lining Exposed - a) Lining showing below shell. Too Short - b) Lining too short. Too Small - c) Lining too tight. Attachment - d) Missing loop attaching lining to shell. Hemming Width - a) Uneven hem width in excess of 25%. Roping - b) Excessively roping / twisted or puckered hem. Skip - c) Any non-raveling skip on a blindstitch in excess of 1/2 Pick-Up - d) Blindstitch needle pick-up visible on face side. Hemline - e) Uneven hemline. Repairs Repair / - Any repair / replacement not completely cleaned of all replacement threads or properly sewn. 30