Clubhouse Bed [1] Additional Photos. Clubhouse Bed Published on Ana White (

Transcription

1 [1] Submitted by Ana White [2] on Tue, :22 [1] Additional Photos [3] Page 1 of 32

2 [4] [5] [6] [7] Do NOT be like me. Last winter, stuck inside for months and months while we waited for the sun to return to Alaska, Grace and I were really missing her original playhouse bed. [8] Now that I blog, our spare bedroom has turned into my office slash room of shame and the only place we have for guests to sleep is Grace's bed. A couple of years ago we decided NOT to force our guests to sleep up in Grace's playhouse bed and replaced it with the Hailey storage bed. [9] All has been good, and it's great having somewhere for guests to stay. Page 2 of 32

3 But then last winter, Grace saw the Eli Fort Bed in Pottery Barn Kid's catalog [10] and asked if we could build it for her. I drew the plans up. And they sat on my computer for months. And months. When my dear friend Jaime from That's My Letter [11] wrote me saying it was her Buddy Boy's turn to get a new bed and, I knew Jaime would get the bed done and posted and shared. We worked on refining the plans, and you will thank Jaime when you build this bed for her brilliant suggestion to sister up 2x4 legs for added strength. This also allows for the bed to be assembled in easy pieces. Page 3 of 32

4 One week later, the clubhouse bed is done. Page 4 of 32

5 Be like Jaime. DIY this bed today. Your kids are growing every day, and one sad sad day, they won't want a clubhouse bed anymore :( Well, if I haven't lost you already - no offense taken - Jaime really built an amazing bed! - I have one request: Please stop over and read all the details from Jaime on how she built this bed. [12] Jaime added a fort area underneath. She sewed those cute curtains! You can check out the details here. [13] Page 5 of 32

6 And she made this surfboard sign too! Check out her tutorial here. [14] Page 6 of 32

7 And she added window grids that hinge open! You can get the instructions on making these window grids here. [12] Page 7 of 32

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10 So PIN THIS project right now to your DIY board and make it happen! And of course the plans follow! Thank you Jaime! Summary: Build a clubhouse bed! Free plans from ana-white.com CategoriesProject Type: Bunk Bed [15] Twin [16] Beds [17] Room: Bedroom [18] Kids and Toys [19] Skill Level: Intermediate [20] Style: Children's and Kid's Room Furniture and Toy Plans [21] Dimensions: Page 10 of 32

11 2 8 feet long 4 8 feet long 8 8 feet long 5 8 feet long 8 feet long 15 8 feet long 1 ¼ and 2 ½ PH screws 1 1/4 finish nails Wood glue 3 screws or bolts for assembly 2 screws for slats Slats (7 8 feet long) NOTE: Jaime recommends the following changes to the shopping list because her 1x6 board ran a little wide on the front and she wanted gaps between the wood slats. Page 11 of 32

12 - add 8' - decrease 1x6 quantity to 14 Common Materials: 1 1/4 inch finish nails 2 inch finish nails 1-1/4" Pocket Hole Screws [22] 2-1/2" Pocket Hole Screws [23] Elmer's Wood Glue [24] Elmer's Wood Filler [25] Cut List: NOTE: This plan assumes your 1x6 boards are less than 5 1/2" wide. Jaime found that she needed to substitute two of the 1x6 boards on front and back for 1x5 boards to create gaps between the wood slats. SIDE WALLS (BUILD 2) ½ 4 68 (top end cut at 30 degrees off square, long point measurement) 4 17 (both ends cut at 45 degrees off square, NOT parallel) 2 43 ½ BACK WALL 2 68 (top end cut at 30 degrees off square, long point measurement) /4 (top end cut at 30 degrees off square, long point measurement) 2 1x5 (Jaime recommends using the 1x5s here instead of 40 3/8 (top end cut at 30 degrees off square, long point measurement) /2 (top end cut at 30 degrees off square, long point measurement) /4 (top end cut at 30 degrees off square, long point measurement) /8 (top end cut at 30 degrees off square, long point measurement) /8 (top end cut at 30 degrees off square, long point measurement) /2 (top end cut to dogeared point 30 degrees off square, long point measurement) Page 12 of 32

13 (one end cut at 30 degrees off square, long point measurement) 1 71 (slat rail ledge) 2 12 (both ends cut at 45 degrees off square, ends NOT parallel) FRONT WALL 2 68 (top end cut at 30 degrees off square, long point measurement) /4 (top end cut at 30 degrees off square, long point measurement) /8 (Jaime recommends swapping these out for the 1x5 boards) (top end cut at 30 degrees off square, long point measurement) /8 (top end cut at 30 degrees off square, long point measurement) /8 (top end cut at 30 degrees off square, long point measurement) /8 (under windows) /8 (top end cut at 30 degrees off square, long point measurement) 2 16 (doorway) (one end cut at 30 degrees off square, long point measurement) 4 13 (window trim - recommend cutting to fit) 1 71 (slat rail ledge) 2 12 (both ends cut at 45 degrees off square, ends NOT parallel) - add 14.5" (lower window trim interior - add to inside of windows) LADDER 2 38 (both ends cut at 15 degrees off square, ends are parallel) 3 14 ½ 1 14 ½ SLATS Recommend cutting 40 1/2 long Page 13 of 32

14 General Instructions: Please read through the entire plan and all comments before beginning this project. It is also advisable to review the Getting Started Section. Take all necessary precautions to build safely and smartly. Work on a clean level surface, free of imperfections or debris. Always use straight boards. Check for square after each step. Always predrill holes before attaching with screws. Use glue with finish nails for a stronger hold. Wipe excess glue off bare wood for stained projects, as dried glue will not take stain. Be safe, have fun, and ask for help if you need it. Good luck! Step 1 [26] Build the walls with 3/4" PHs and 1 1/4" PH screws. Use scrap 1x3 to help with spacing. Fill upper holes with either PH plugs or wood filler. Page 14 of 32

15 Step 2 [27] Now add the legs. Step 3 Page 15 of 32

16 [28] And then add the cross supports. Jaime used 2 1/2" PH screws through 1 1/2" PHs to attach. Step 4 Page 16 of 32

17 [29] And the trim to the base. NOTE: Attach 34 up NOT 34 ¼ Step 5 Page 17 of 32

18 [30] Build your back wall. I suggest leaving gaps between the wood boards to get that "clubhousey" look but you could also PH them together. Up to you! Either way, I'd recommend laying out all the boards first and going from there. NOTES FROM JAIME: as in plans /2" = 78.5" which is 1/2" too much width, change out 40 3/8" slats to 1x5 which allows for 1/8" spacing between slats (these changes have been made in the cut and shopping list above) - PH screws first slat (37 1/4") to legs, then use trim piece and screw slats to trim from inside, then same at top angled trim pieces Page 18 of 32

19 Step 6 [31] Attach top and bottom trim. Step 7 Page 19 of 32

20 [32] This is for the slat system. You can use a 2x2 here too. Step 8 Page 20 of 32

21 [33] And the cross supports. Step 9 Page 21 of 32

22 [34] Step 9 Instructions: Lay out your front wall as you did the back wall. Step 10 Page 22 of 32

23 [35] And add the trim. Step 11 I'd cut the window trim a little long here. NOTES FROM JAIME: screw on front trim from inside then screw added interior window trim from inside from strength (my kids will definitely lean on this sill and without any side support in the slats I needed to add the extra longer interior trim piece). - I also added a short 4" piece across the top point on the interior Page 23 of 32

24 to hold the joint where the angled trim pieces meet, not to mention it provides a sturdy hook for decor. [36] Step 12 Page 24 of 32

25 [37] And the bottom supports and cross supports. Step 13 Page 25 of 32

26 [38] Now move the pieces into the room. For the large walls, try going in upside down, and getting one leg through at a time. NOTES FROM JAIME: I used 3/8" lag 3 1/2" in 3 spots on each leg Step 14 Page 26 of 32

27 [39] Add the slats or bunkie board or box spring. Step 15 And then build your ladder and attach. NOTES FROM JAIME: gap between rungs is 8", attached with 2-3/8" carriage 3" Page 27 of 32

28 [40] Step 16 Page 28 of 32

29 For the window grid tutorial and lots other tips and construction photos Page 29 of 32

30 please read Jaime's build post here. [12] Finishing InstructionsPreparation Instructions: Fill all holes with wood filler and let dry. Apply additional coats of wood filler as needed. When wood filler is completely dry, sand the project in the direction of the wood grain with 120 grit sandpaper. Vacuum sanded project to remove sanding residue. Remove all sanding residue on work surfaces as well. Wipe project clean with damp cloth. It is always recommended to apply a test coat on a hidden area or scrap piece to ensure color evenness and adhesion. Use primer or wood conditioner as needed. Source URL: Links [1] [2] [3] 34.jpg [4] 34.jpg [5] 34.jpg [6] 34.jpg [7] 34.png [8] [9] [10] [11] [12] uild.html [13] [14] [15] [16] [17] [18] Page 30 of 32

31 [19] [20] [21] [22] TF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B U2&linkCode=as2&tag=knooffwoo-20&linkId=5AJJ GUAWGYX2TT7E [23] TF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B00 0BN7DLU&linkCode=as2&tag=knooffwoo-20&linkId=XL DYGROR7GI4SHLA [24] [25] struction# [26] jpg [27] jpg [28] jpg [29] jpg [30] jpg [31] jpg [32] jpg [33] jpg [34] jpg [35] jpg [36] jpg [37] jpg [38] jpg [39] jpg Page 31 of 32

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