Simple White Outdoor Loveseat [1]

Transcription

1 [1] Submitted by Ana White [2] on Thu, :05 [1] Some comments from our lovely readers on the matching sofa plan [3]... "Will you be doing the love seat? (Pretty please!)" "Would it be so hard to change the legs to be from 2x3? For the life of me I cannot get a decent 2x2 in Lowe's or HD around me!" Page 1 of 18

2 My outdoor space doesn't call for a loveseat, but I'm more than happy to post plan modifications to the outdoor sofa (shown above) [3] for our kind readers. I also went ahead and changed the legs up a bit to use 2x3, in case there are more of your out there who have trouble finding decent 2x2s. Make sure you review the sofa plans - there's tons of info on the cushions and the 2x2 arm style in that plan. Also, another note, the cushions on this plan are designed to match the sofa - for the seat, that's 26 1/2" deep x 24" wide, but this differs from the Restoration Hardware Nantucket Loveseat cushions. My advice? Buy the cushions first, adjust the plans to fit if you are going the retail route. If you are going the sewing route, just build two seats and two backs as done in the outdoor sofa plan. Enjoy the plans, I'll be adding the chair, end table (paint's a drying, yipee!) and with requests, the matching dining collection. Page 2 of 18

3 Summary: Simple, free, step by step project plans to build an outdoor loveseat inspired by Restoration Hardware Nantucket Collection. Featuring relaxed seating and sturdy styling, this inexpensive outdoor loveseat is stylish and comfortable. CategoriesProject Type: Sofa [4] Outdoor [5] Room: Outdoor [6] Skill Level: Intermediate [7] Style: Modern Style Furniture Plans [8] Estimated Cost: $20 - $50 [9] Dimensions: Dimensions are shown above. Page 3 of 18

4 8 feet long 8 feet or stud length 8 feet 1 4 feet 8 feet 8 feet 6 feet feet Common Materials: 2 1/2 inch screws 2 inch finish nails 1-1/4" Pocket Hole Screws [10] 2-1/2" Pocket Hole Screws [11] Elmer's Wood Glue [12] Elmer's Wood Filler [13] 120 grit sandpaper primer wood conditioner paint paint brush Tools: Dimensions: Page 4 of 18

5 [14] Page 5 of 18

6 [15] [16] [17] [18] [19] [20] Cut List: 34" (Arm rests) 22" (Legs) 31" (Side Aprons) 48" (Front Back Aprons) 48" (Back Page 6 of 18

7 Rest/Seat Support) 48" (Front Cleat) 31" (Side Trim) 48" (Front/Back Trim) 25" (Slats) 16 1/4" (Back End Rails) 16 1/4" (Main Rails) 48" (Back Top) 48" (Back Bottom) General Instructions: Please read through the entire plan and all comments before beginning this project. It is also advisable to review the Getting Started Section. Take all necessary precautions to build safely and smartly. Work on a clean level surface, free of imperfections or debris. Always use straight boards. Check for square after each step. Always predrill holes before attaching with screws. Use glue with finish nails for a stronger hold. Wipe excess glue off bare wood for stained projects, as dried glue will not take stain. Be safe, have fun, and ask for help if you need it. Good luck! Page 7 of 18

8 [21] KREG JIG USERS - Review the sofa plan [22] for pocket hole diagrams. Build the legs as shown above, using 2 1/2" screws and glue, or pocket holes set for 1 1/2" stock, using 2 1/2" pocket hole screws. You will need to build two leg frames. Step 1 Page 8 of 18

9 [23] Front and Back Aprons - attach as shown above, with side aprons flush on the insides, front and back aprons level with the side aprons. Use 2 1/2" screws and glue or pocket holes. Step 2 Page 9 of 18

10 [24] Back brace - you will need to drill pocket holes on ends of back brace and attach to legs as shown above. Set your jig for 1 1/2" stock and use 2 1/2" pocket hole screws. The back brace is flush to top and back. Step 3 Page 10 of 18

11 [25] Seat support - the seat support is flush to the bottom, 23 1/2" from the inside of the front apron. Attach in place with 2 1/2" screws or pocket holes. Step 4 Page 11 of 18

12 [26] Front cleat - attach front cleat with 2 1/2" screws and glue, using countersink bit. Step 5 Page 12 of 18

13 [27] Side trim - the side trim just gets nailed down with 2" finish nails and glue. Step 6 Page 13 of 18

14 [28] Same with front and back trim - just nail it down. Step 7 Page 14 of 18

15 [29] Now add the slats, spacing doesn't have to be exact. We used 2" finish nails but screws would do the trick too. Step 8 Page 15 of 18

16 [30] Step 9 Instructions: Drill pocket holes set for 1 1/4" stock and attach rails to top/bottom of the back. Optionally round top corners. Attach rails to top and bottom, using measurements above. End spacing is 2", middle spacing is 3". Finishing InstructionsPreparation Instructions: Fill all holes with wood filler and let dry. Apply additional coats of wood filler as needed. When wood filler is completely dry, sand the project in the direction of the wood grain with 120 grit sandpaper. Vacuum sanded project to remove sanding residue. Remove all sanding residue on work surfaces as well. Wipe project clean with damp cloth. It is always recommended to apply a test coat on a hidden area or scrap piece to ensure color Step 9 evenness and adhesion. Use primer or wood conditioner as needed. Source URL: Links [1] Page 16 of 18

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