Hannah Canopy Bed - Full Size [1]

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1 [1] Submitted by Ana White [2] on Fri, :19 Page 1 of 17

2 Page 2 of 17

3 [1] Hi everyone - so glad you liked my niece's new canpy bed in twin size! [3] Page 3 of 17

4 Per your request - here's the full size plans - enjoy! PS - Did I hear a queen size request too? Summary: Pencil post canopy bed plans in full size from Ana-White.com CategoriesProject Type: Full [4] main_category: Hannah's House [5] Room: Teens [6] Bedroom [7] Kids and Toys [8] Skill Level: Intermediate [9] Page 4 of 17

5 Style: Children's and Kid's Room Furniture and Toy Plans [10] Dimensions: Full size bed - note that if using with a box spring, measure your box spring first to ensure it will fit inside the bed. Dimensions: 4-2x3s or 2-2x6s ripped in half (for legs) 8 feet or stud length 8 feet long 12 feet long 8 feet or stud length 1 - full sheet (4x8) hardwood plywood boards for slats or box spring (measure box spring if using and make sure it is less than 53 1/2" wide x 75" long) 1-1/4" and 2-1/2" pocket hole screws Tools: Page 5 of 17

6 [11] [12] Page 6 of 17

7 [13] [14] Cut List: 78" (if you can't find 2x3s, you can rip a 2x6 in half and use it, or cut down 2x4s) 51 1/2" (panel top) 51 1/2" (panel bottom/footboard bottom) 1-3/4" hardwood plywood 51 1/2" x 33 1/4" (panel) 56 1/2' (canopy top for headboard/footboard) 75" (canopy sides) 75" (siderails) 75" (cleats) slats are 53 1/2" long - cut to fit as needed General Instructions: Please read through the entire plan and all comments before beginning this project. It is also advisable to review the Getting Started Section. Take all necessary precautions to build safely and smartly. Work on a clean level surface, free of imperfections or debris. Always use straight boards. Check for square after each step. Always predrill holes before attaching with screws. Use glue with finish nails for a stronger hold. Wipe excess glue off bare wood for stained projects, as dried glue will not take stain. Be safe, have fun, and ask for help if you need it. Good luck! Step 1 Page 7 of 17

8 [15] First cut the four leg tapers. We used a circular saw, and started at the end grain of each board, and cut toward the outside edge. The cuts were then sanded with a belt sander to smooth out. Step 2 Page 8 of 17

9 [16] Now for the headboard panel. First, drill 3/4" pocket holes around all sides of the panel, about every 6-8 inches. Then drill 1-1/2" pocket holes on each end of the 2x2 and 2x8 boards. Then attach panel to the 2x2 and 2x8 boards, using 1-1/4" pocket hole screws. Back and outside edges are flush. Step 3 Page 9 of 17

10 [17] Drill a pocket hole on the top of each leg, on th back side (for attaching header in next step). Then attach legs to center panel. Use 1-1/4" pocket hole screws for 3/4" pocket holes, and 2-1/2" pocket hole screws for 1-1/2" pocket holes. Step 4 Page 10 of 17

11 [18] Attach top header board - use glue to secure as well. Step 5 Page 11 of 17

12 [19] Build the footboard panel as you did the headboard panel. To get the bed moved into a room, through doorways, you'll need to bring it in in pieces - we brought in the headboard panel, footboard panel, and then siderails and side canopy boards seperately and then assembled everything in the room. If you are doing this, you may wish to finsih your panels now. Page 12 of 17

13 Step 6 [20] To assemble the bed, attach the siderails and canopy sides to the headboard and footboard panels. Since these are all 2x boards, use 1-1/2" pocket holes and 2-1/2" pocket hole screws. Step 7 Page 13 of 17

14 [21] The cleats to support the mattress need to be attached as well - but don't need to be finished. Attach outer cleats to the siderail, center cleat to the headboard/footboard. For additional support to the mattress, you can also add center "legs" to the center cleat - just a 2x4 board that extends from the cleat to the floor. This will add a ton of support to the bed. Page 14 of 17

15 Step 8 [22] Finally, attach slats to the cleats. Slat spacing is determined by mattress recommendations. If you have a box spring, you won't need them at all. Finishing InstructionsPreparation Instructions: Fill all holes with wood filler and let dry. Apply additional coats of wood filler as needed. When wood filler is completely dry, sand the project in the direction of the wood grain with 120 grit sandpaper. Vacuum sanded project to Page 15 of 17

16 remove sanding residue. Remove all sanding residue on work surfaces as well. Wipe project clean with damp cloth. It is always recommended to apply a test coat on a hidden area or scrap piece to ensure color evenness and adhesion. Use primer or wood conditioner as needed. Source URL: Links [1] [2] [3] [4] [5] ouse [6] [7] [8] [9] [10] [11] [12] [13] [14] [15] jpg [16] jpg [17] jpg [18] jpg [19] jpg [20] jpg [21] jpg Page 16 of 17

17 [22] jpg Page 17 of 17

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