Shed Chicken Coop [1]

Transcription

1 [1] Submitted by Ana White [2] on Tue, :49 [1] Additional Photos Page 1 of 28

2 [3] [4] [5] [6] [7] A few weeks back, my friend Whitney from Whitney's Workshop [8] wrote saying she wanted to build her sister a traditional shed style coop. She wanted to build it with traditional framing techniques, and use t1-11 siding. Didn't take me much to get on board - pun not intended there! She said "chicken coop" and you have been asking for chicken coops for Page 2 of 28

3 years now! Shame on me. So I drew up a pretty basic shed style chicken coop with a door on one side and a humble sloping roof. Nothing fancy. And this is what Whitney builds. Page 3 of 28

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5 In 30 hours - how is that possible, I'd still be painting! - Whitney and her family built this coop. I adore that they saved money and used wood pallets for the foundation. That they found old windows and used them. That they went with this lovely shade of turquoise. But I love the most that this chicken coop was built by a family with love. Thank you so much Whitney for letting me work with you on this project. I cannot wait to work with you on the run! Here's from Whitney: We did use 2x3's for the framing and it really did work out nice. They are a little harder to work with because they are not as ridged as a 2x4. But at a cost savings of about $0.75 per board it really saves. We did use some old wood windows and opted to not make the shutters operational. My concern was that the shutters would keep out the sunlight that helps keep the chicks warm in the winter. So this may be an option for someone who can get a hold of windows. We also used some barn wood for the shutters... so cute! Another change, we did not make the front of the nesting box hinge. From what I have read the hens keep their nesting box fairly clean so it Page 5 of 28

6 should be easy enough to clean it from the top. This also helps make the nesting box extra strong (my 5 year old nephew was already caught standing in it!). One other change to the nesting box, I made it shorter. Once we got the wood right up to the coop it was way to deep and would have been hard for the hens to get in and out. I shortened sides by 4" and that left it with about a 3" drop into the box. Please stop over and check out more construction photos and read more tips from Whitney from Whitney's Workshop. [8] Thank you again Whitney and family! Summary: Free shed chicken coop plans! CategoriesProject Type: Outdoor [9] Buildings [10] Other Projects [11] Room: Outdoor [12] Skill Level: Advanced [13] Style: Cottage Style Furniture Plans [14] Dimensions: Page 6 of 28

7 6 Sheets T1-11 side or other sheathing 1 Sheet 3/4" plywood suitable for flooring 40 2x4 x8 or stud length (only 5 must be full 8 feet length) 17 8 feet long 8 8 feet long 3 Sheets 1/2" plywood suitable for roof 1 10 feet long Hinges for doors and shutters and nesting box 16d nails for framing with 2x4s OR 3 wood screws (for framing 2x4 walls) 2 galvanized or ring shank nails for attaching T1-11 and roofing plywood and trim boards 1 1/2 Pocket hole screws for attaching roof rafters 1 1/4" Pocket hole screws for building doors and nesting box Roofing to cover approximately 50 square feet Tools: Page 7 of 28

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9 [15] [16] [17] [18] [19] Cut List: Due to the size and complexity of this plan, it is recommended to cut as you go. Below is cut list for framing, but trim will need to be cut to fit. FLOOR 45" 96" 1-3/4" plywood for flooring 96x48" Page 9 of 28

10 FRONT WALL 96" (top plate) 72 3/4" (studs) 69 1/4" (jack studs for doorway) 33" (door header and bottom plates) SIDE WALLS - BUILD /4" (studs) 21 1/2" (window header and sill) 41" (top and bottom plates) BACK WALL 96" (top and bottom plates) 84 1/2" - top end cut at 15 degrees off square (studs) ROOF FRAMING 49 7/8" - both ends cut at 15 degrees off square, ends parallel, with bottom point cut off at a 90 degree angle - see diagram (rafters) Cut roof plywood to length. SIDING Use full sheets of siding, only trimming down the length to fit. Nesting box, door and shutter cuts are in plan. General Instructions: Please read through the entire plan and all comments before beginning this project. It is also advisable to review the Getting Started Section. Take all necessary precautions to build safely and smartly. Work on a clean level surface, free of imperfections or debris. Always use straight boards. Check for square after each step. Always predrill holes before attaching with screws. Use glue with finish nails for a stronger hold. Wipe excess glue off bare wood for stained projects, as dried glue will not take stain. Be safe, have fun, and ask for help if you need it. Good luck! Step 1 Page 10 of 28

11 [20] You will need to first determine the type of foundation you will put the coop on. Probably the easiest and simplest foundation is pier blocks with treated 4x4s on top. Then your flooring system can set on that. Because foundation requirements vary greatly by where you live, ask locally for the best way to create a foundation for the coop. To build the floor, simply frame up with 2x4s as shown above, 24 on center, using the 3 wood screws or 16d nails. Check the floor for square, and sheath with 3/4 plywood, glued on with subfloor glue and ring shank nails. At this point, you could also add insulation underneath if you live in a cold climate for example blueboard. I recommend on the final finish linoleum to protect the plywood from pet damage. Attach the floor to your foundation and adjust for level. Step 2 Page 11 of 28

12 [21] Once your floor is done, it s time to build walls. You will need a large flat area to frame your walls. Use the 16d nails or 3 screws. Build one front wall. Step 3 Page 12 of 28

13 [22] You will need to frame two side walls. The windows can be made smaller or larger or positioned differently. In this plan, both side walls have a window. Also, with scrap wood, you can frame out the nesting box opening, or a lip to help the hens get into the nesting box. Step 4 Page 13 of 28

14 [23] The back wall is a little different, but no biggie. Simple cut the top ends at 15 degrees off square, with the longest point measurement 84 ½. Then fasten top plate to wall. Do not allow the top plate to extend past the back wall studs, because t1-11 will sheath all the way up, and the back surface needs to be flush. Step 5 Page 14 of 28

15 [24] With all the walls built, attach walls to the floor, attaching to the floor joists in the floor. Attach walls to each other as well. Now it s time to build the roof! The rafters are simply 2x4s cut with both ends parallel at 15 degrees off square. Once the rafter is cut, on the bottom edge, mark 2 5/8 down, and use a carpenter s square to draw a line perpendicular to the bottom cut at 2 5/8 down. Cut off the bottom of the rafter. This will give you something flush to attach to your front wall. The easiest way to attach rafters is with a Kreg Jig and 1 ½ pocket holes and 2 ½ pocket hole screws. But you can also toenail to the top plates, or use brackets. Step 6 Page 15 of 28

16 [25] With all the walls built, attach walls to the floor, attaching to the floor joists in the floor. Attach walls to each other as well. Now it s time to build the roof! The rafters are simply 2x4s cut with both ends parallel at 15 degrees off square. Once the rafter is cut, on the bottom edge, mark 2 5/8 down, and use a carpenter s square to draw a line perpendicular to the bottom cut at 2 5/8 down. Cut off the bottom of the rafter. This will give you something flush to attach to your front wall. The easiest way to attach rafters is with a Kreg Jig and 1 ½ pocket holes and 2 ½ pocket hole screws. But you can also toenail to the top plates, or use brackets. Step 7 Page 16 of 28

17 [26] I do not give exact trim dimensions because depending on the thickness of your T1-11, your trim boards will vary. On the fronts and back, you will need to use full 8 foot sticks at the top and bottom. Trim out front and back first, followed by side walls. Use galvanized nails or screws. Step 8 Page 17 of 28

18 [27] There s no way around this to do it correctly than to use 3 sheets of 1/2 plywood. Cut the center piece to fit it should just be a single lengthwise cut as the studs are spaced 24 on center. Nail down with galvanized nails or screws. Then add the remaining two pieces on the sides. Add roofing to top of plywood. Step 9 Page 18 of 28

19 [28] Step 9 Instructions: For the nesting box, I designed it with 1x12 boards ¾ one end at 30 degrees off square, longest point (sides) 2 36 ¼ (front trim) 2 36 ¼ (back supports) 1 36 ¼ (bottom) 1 36 (door) ½ plywood for the roof Step 10 Page 19 of 28

20 [29] Attach nesting box to side of coop, screwing into studs in wall. Step 11 Then add the roofing and door with hinges. Page 20 of 28

21 [30] Step 12 Page 21 of 28

22 [31] Windows are trimmed out in 1x3s followed by shutters made from 1x3s and 1x2 boards. Staple chicken wire or hardware cloth to inside of coop. Shutters are attached with hinges so they can close in rainy or cooler weather. SHUTTERS (for 4) ½ Step 13 Page 22 of 28

23 [32] The door is framed in 1x4s with the Kreg Jig. Then you can back it with either scrap plywood leftover or as shown, 1x6 boards. The door should be built to fit your opening. I like to leave 1/8 gaps all the way around. You can add door stop moulding in 1x2s to the inside of the doorway to act as both a stop and a weather seal see next diagram. Step 14 Page 23 of 28

24 [33] Step 15 Page 24 of 28

25 [34] Step 16 Page 25 of 28

26 For lots more tips and building photos, please stop over and check out Whitney's post. [35] Finishing InstructionsPreparation Instructions: Fill all holes with wood filler and let dry. Apply additional coats of wood filler as needed. When wood filler is completely dry, sand the project in the direction of the wood grain with 120 grit sandpaper. Vacuum sanded project to remove sanding residue. Remove all sanding residue on work surfaces as well. Wipe project clean with damp cloth. It is always recommended to apply a test coat on a hidden area or scrap piece to ensure color evenness and adhesion. Use primer or wood conditioner as needed. Page 26 of 28

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