Adjustable Height Wood and Metal Stool [1]

Transcription

1 [1] Submitted by Ana White [2] on Mon, :42 Page 1 of 23

2 [1] Additional Photos [3] Page 2 of 23

3 [4] [5] [6] [7] Hello Awesomest DIY Folks Ever, and Happy Monday! Toliy (who's been sorta interning with me this summer) will be working with us for another couple of weeks before he heads back to college, and he's been wanting to make an adjustable height stool to match the sawhorse desk we made a while back. [8] Page 3 of 23

4 To refresh - this sawhorse desk goes from desk - Page 4 of 23

5 To a tallish coffee table by just adjusting bolts. You can find the plans here. [8] Yup, 2x4s and all-thread. Now for a stool to match... Page 5 of 23

6 After quite a few tweaks and trips to the hardware store... Page 6 of 23

7 I think we finally nailed bolted it! Page 7 of 23

8 It ended up being much simpler than we had thought. We just attached a floor flange to the underside of the seat (I suggest a more comfortable seat if you plan on sitting on this stool for long periods of time), and then screwed a piece of all-thread into that flange. Page 8 of 23

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10 Then made a base out of 2x2s, and drilled holes in it to hold the all-thread, And then just used bolts and washers to secure the all-thread to the stool at the top and bottom of the cross supports. Page 10 of 23

11 Once we got this stool figured out, it's acutally pretty easy to build! Enjoy the plans following! Ana PS- I'd love to make a taller stool too! If you'd like to see a taller stool, let me know in the comments. Summary: Page 11 of 23

12 DIY Adjustable height stool made of hardware store parts and 2x2s. Free plans from ana-white.com CategoriesProject Type: Stools [9] Room: Craftroom [10] kitchen [11] office [12] Teens [13] Skill Level: Advanced [14] Dimensions: Adjusts between seat and counter-height stool heights. Page 12 of 23

13 8 feet long 1 - piece of scrap plywood 6" x 6" 1-2x12 or 1x12 cut into a round circle (you can also buy a plywood round for a stool top at most hardware stores) 1-3/4" All-Thread 16" long (if you can't find 16" all-thead, you can cut it down easily with a jigsaw or handsaw with a blade designed to cut metal) 1-3/4" Floor Flange to match all thread (also recommend pipe thread tape for securing all-thread into the flange) 2 - bolts and washers to match the all-thread Page 13 of 23

14 2-1/2" pocket hole screws 3" screws or lag bolts (heads will be visible) for attaching cross supports to the legs Tools: [15] [16] Page 14 of 23

15 [17] [18] [19] [20] Cut List: 1-3/4" thick plywood, 6" x 6" 15-1/2" long, long point to short point, both ends cut at 15 degrees off square, parallel to each other 8-3/8" long, long point to long point, both ends cut at 15 degrees off square, ends NOT parallel to each other General Instructions: Please read through the entire plan and all comments before beginning this project. It is also advisable to review the Getting Started Section. Take all necessary precautions to build safely and smartly. Work on a clean level surface, free of imperfections or debris. Always use straight boards. Check for square after each step. Always predrill holes before Page 15 of 23

16 attaching with screws. Use glue with finish nails for a stronger hold. Wipe excess glue off bare wood for stained projects, as dried glue will not take stain. Be safe, have fun, and ask for help if you need it. Good luck! Page 16 of 23

17 [21] The best way we found to attach the legs to the base is with 1-1/2" pocket holes from underside, using 2-1/2" pocket hole screws and glue. Take a second to confirm the outside to outside measurement of the legs matches the diagram. Page 17 of 23

18 [22] Now this is the harder part of making this stool. There are easier ways but we felt that this was the right balance between difficulty and getting a nice looking project in the end. Use either a tablesaw or circular saw to notch out the cross support pieces (note that you notch one on top and one on bottom), 3/4" deep. You can do this by making multiple cuts with saw blade set at 3/4" in the area to notch out, and then remove any excess material with a chisel. Test the pieces to make sure they fit together. Page 18 of 23

19 [23] Attach the cross supports to the legs. Do not attach the actual cross supports to each other, as a bolt will need to pass through the center of them. Page 19 of 23

20 [24] Attach the floor flange to the center of the seat (we used a scrap 2x12 cut with a jigsaw) and thread the all-thread into the flange. Step 4 Page 20 of 23

21 [25] Page 21 of 23

22 Drill holes in the base just big enough to allow the all-thread to pass through. Place seat with all-thread into base, with a nut and washer on each side of the base. Tighten nuts to secure. Step 6 [26] Turn the seat to adjust up or down. NOTE: Once you have the seat where you want it, make sure the nuts are still tight. Finishing InstructionsPreparation Instructions: Fill all holes with wood filler and let dry. Apply additional coats of wood filler as needed. When wood filler is completely dry, sand the project in the direction of the wood grain with 120 grit sandpaper. Vacuum sanded project to remove sanding residue. Remove all sanding residue on work surfaces as well. Wipe project clean with damp cloth. It is always recommended to apply a test coat on a hidden area or scrap piece to ensure color evenness and adhesion. Use primer or wood conditioner as needed. Source URL: e-height-wood-and-metal-stool Links [1] od-and-metal-stool [2] [3] eight%20wood%20metal%20stool01.jpg [4] eight%20wood%20metal%20stool02.jpg [5] eight%20wood%20metal%20stool06.jpg [6] eight%20wood%20metal%20stool10_0.jpg [7] eight%20wood%20metal%20stool11.jpg Page 22 of 23

23 [8] whorse-desk-coffee-table [9] [10] [11] [12] [13] [14] [15] [16] [17] [18] [19] [20] [21] 0wood%20metal%20bolt%20step%201_0.jpg [22] 0wood%20metal%20bolt%20step%202.jpg [23] 0wood%20metal%20bolt%20step%203.jpg [24] height%20wood%20metal%20stool09.jpg [25] height%20wood%20metal%20stool12.jpg [26] height%20wood%20metal%20stool03.jpg Page 23 of 23