Sandtrooper Backpack Kit Instructions

Transcription

1 Sandtrooper Backpack Kit Instructions Start with opening the box Use the inventory sheet to identify parts and group them into components Note that "scrap plastic" can take many shapes and forms Usually parts are marked with the component name Backpack Components: Check out these buildups by other Sandtroopers: Mike's Buildup Scootch's Buildup Quartermaster's Buildup Shotgun Shells Cut the ½ PVC into 2 1/4" lengths - You may want to paint the inside of the tubes black at this point Cut 1" squares of screen mesh and stick them in the tubes using the ½ CPVC for the frame Cut scrap plastic circles and glue them to the other end Glue the shells to the 2" x 6" plastic base - Optionally build up 1/4" of hot glue or cut and shape plastic to make the shells "float" off the base - The bottom shells are not aligned parallel, they curve out on the back The mounting base will be glued to the side of the top 3 rib seed tray PVC Frame Tutorial: Arrange the tubes and elbows Lightly sand the tubes, then glue them into the elbows Ensure they are square - Do not attach the straps and cross braces at this time Zenix Victory 75 Radio! Start with the base and sides to create the box - Use tape to line everything up and test fit the faceplate Apply thick goopy glue on the inside while tape holds the box shape Make sure it stays square Glue the sides to the base plate You have to decide how you re going to mount the faceplate Use Velcro tabs on L brackets Use magnets glued to the box and faceplate Or, magnets glued to the faceplate, then metal L brackets inside the box Hinges on one side, and magnets or Velcro on the other side Glue it down permanently But then you can t store stuff inside Sand the edges of the resin faceplate to ensure they are nice and smooth, and scuff the back Also scuff the top plastic plate, then glue the resin faceplate to the plastic plate - Use clamps or stack heavy weights to ensure you have a good bond

2 Drill out the speaker holes, then wash with soap and water Mount the two small knobs using glue - Or drill holes through the faceplate and into the knobs, then use your own screws to secure the knobs from the back Mount the large knob in the top right corner Mount the slide switches using scrap plastic on the inside of the faceplate with thick glue - Optionally, you could use short, tiny screws, but don t let them go through the front of the faceplate! Cut out your radio dial decal 2.2" in diameter and glue it in the upper left circle Cut out a piece of clear plastic to place over the radio dial, and glue it in position Cut out the Sonix decal and mount it in the small bottom left rectangle - Optional Make the dial glow! Cut out the upper left radio dial on the faceplate Seal the radio dial decal with clearcoat Cut clear plastic larger than the hole and stick the printout on there with hairspray Cut the top of a soda bottle and paint it shiny silver / chrome on the inside to make a reflector Mount a white LED in the bottle lid Run one wire to one of the slide switches Run the other wire to a battery pack Install batteries and verify operation Glue the reflector to the clear plastic plate with goopy glue Save the /4" screws for mounting the finished radio to the seed trays Toolbox Assemble the sides and base using tape to hold them together, then test fit them into the lid Apply glue to the inside corners and keep them square Trim the 3/4" flare from the vacuum formed lid and sand the edges smooth Mount the lid to the box using magnets, Velcro, rubber bands, etc... Save the /4" screws for final assembly and mounting Exhaust Port First, let's make the base mount Cut the 5/8" wide strip of plastic so that two pieces are longer than the base plate by 3/4" on each side Glue these two strips to the base plate, lined up with the three rib seed tray ribs Carefully drill a #10 hole in each end of the base strips Let's move on to the thermal exhaust port housing Sand down the webbing in the corners (an undesirable aspect of vacuum forming a vertical surface) Drill or cut a hole in the top of the vacuum formed exhaust port housing to fit the ¾ PVC pipe Glue the gray PVC greeblie and tighten the hose clamp in the final position Glue the pipe to the bottom of the housing and the top angle plate - You might want to reinforce with extra scrap plastic Once the pipe is secured, glue the exhaust housing to the base Use the remaining 5/8 plastic to make the annoying triangle pieces - A very sharp utility knife, a 45 degree angle, and clamps are best for this - Cut 8 little triangles using the score and snap method Glue the triangles to the sides of the base mounting strips and the exhaust housing File and shape to make them even

3 Mushroom Mushroom! Trim the 3/4" flare off the bottom of the vacuum formed mushroom Drill a #10 hole in the top center of the shroom, the spacer, and the bottle lid Bolt the mushroom and spacer to the lid using the 2" long screw Save the two /4" screws for final assembly Toilet Bowl Cistern Tutorial: Hmm, how do we mount this assembly to the seed trays?!? What should we do with these three /4" screws... Stinger Pull the soft gray foam off the top of the faucet cover - Leave the white styrofoam inside since it adds strength and structure Shape the 1" wide white HIPS plastic into a mounting bracket using a heat gun Drill two #10 holes near the center of the bracket, 2" apart Drill a #10 hole at each end of the strip of plastic Drill a #10 hole near the top of the cover on the sides Trim the 3/4" flare off the vacuum formed cone Drill a 1/2" hole for the tube into the cone and stinger and glue it all together using goopy glue Mount the bracket to the top of the faucet cover using 1 ½ screws Cut an oval from black scrap plastic to make a lid for the faucet cover and glue it into position Mortar Tube Cut the flare off the white vacuum formed end caps so they are 3/4" tall Trim down the control panel - Use reference photos to cut to the correct length for the backpack you are replicating Trim the flare off the white vacuum formed Tupperware pitcher lid Cut a circle from the black scrap plastic wider than the pitcher lid by 1/4" and glue them together - It would probably be best to paint them before gluing Cut a 1/2" length of the black vinyl tube or use some leftover PVC pipe to act as a spacer Drill a hole 2 above the bottom of the mortar tube to mount the pitcher lid (radar dish) Mount the lid, spacer, and curved washers to the mortar tube using the 1/4" screw and acorn nut Save the two 1/4" x 1 1 ½ screws for mounting the tube to the seed tray sides Left Side Tube Glue the 1 to ¾ threaded adapter to one end of the 15 long PVC pipe Glue the 1 threaded adapter to the other end of the PVC pipe Save the 2 black zip ties for final assembly Seed Trays Trim off the vertical lip of one three rib tray so it is flat, and fits just inside the lip of the other tray Do the same for the five rib tray Use a sanding block to take the remaining vertical lip down to 1/8 - The lip will keep the boxes from sliding apart Tutorial:

4 Use the 1" x 24 strips of plastic from the backpack frame and line up where to mount the cross braces with the ribs on the trays - Use tape to hold them in position temporarily - The 5 rib tray goes on the bottom of the frame - The 1" wide plastic might not be strong enough, so you may want to substitute with 1/8" x 1/2" wide aluminum strips and provide your own screws or rivets to pass through the PVC frame - The 3 rib trays are mounted on the top of the backpack The top and bottom seed trays should meet in the middle of the backpack - You'll need to leave extra space if you plan to open the bottom trays with a hinge Mark where to mount the cross strips on the frame Heat the strips and bend them around the frame and glue the ends together Drill a #10 hole through the seed trays and into the cross braces and mount with the screws Now how are we going to mount the outside seed trays?!? Magnets, velcro, rubber bands, nylon zip ties, rivets mounted to scrap plastic glued on the inside, hinges, piano wire hinges... Lots of options! Zip tie tutorial: If using small hinges, put them at the top of the trays and use thick goopy glue - You might use small screws and a strip of scrap plastic on the outside The bottom of the tray can be secured using magnets and metal L brackets, or Velcro on plastic L tabs, or black tape Test Fit Assembly Let's get it together! Use a loop of rolled tape to position the components onto the seed trays and arrange them to match the screen used backpacks Once everything is in the right position, drill #10 holes through the ribs (since the ribs sit higher and will meet the component versus the valley, which will flex the plastic and eventually cause cracking and failure from fatigue) You may want to use scrap plastic inside the trays to help spread the load and prevent stress fractures Four holes for the radio base plate - The radio may be mounted upside down, if you want to be "that guy" Four holes for the toolbox Two holes into the white bottle Four holes for the exhaust port Two holes for the cistern? Maybe some goopy glue too? Two holes in the bottom side of the 5 rib seed tray for the stinger Two 1/4" holes for the mortar tube - One at the inside top 3 rib seed tray - One at the inside bottom 5 rib seed tray Mount the screw so the head and washers face out, and the two nuts hold the screw to the trays Cut a 1" long keyhole in the mortar tube - Make sure the Tupperware lid is facing the back of the pack! Stick the shotgun shells on the outside top seed tray with tape Look good?!? Great! Now let's take everything apart and paint it! Painting Scrub all surfaces to be painted with a green scrubby pad and just a dab of dishwasher detergent This will remove any oils from the manufacturing process and your fingers It will also scuff the surface for better paint adhesion Paint your parts

5 White The mortar control panel and end caps are white The radar dish and acorn nut is off white on the front. The back is black Blue 5 rib trays are Rustoleum Satin Slate Blue - The inside 5 rib tray may optionally be painted black The white bottles are Slate Blue The faucet cover can be either red, black, slate blue, or blue with a black top Black The 3 rib trays are black The entire radio is painted black (even that dial that you added the light behind!) - Optionally you may just add black pie wedges on the dial Tool box is all black with a black tape cross The mushroom cap is black The entire exhaust port is black The entire cistern is all black The shotgun shells are all black The mortar tube is black The left side tube is black Final Assembly After the paint has completely finished curing (one week for Krylon Fusion!) we can perform the final assembly using thread lock Mount all of the components with a dab of thread lock Be careful not to scratch your paint - oh wait, you're a sandtrooper, you are supposed to be all scuffed up! Scratch that last bit and get a little crazy with the Mann- handling! Add some black tape across the 5 rib seed trays Optionally add some wire across the radio and cistern Straps Cut the 2" x 60 elastic in half (two 30" lengths) Wrap one end around the bottom of the angled backpack frame tube The other end will mount near the center of the top cross tube You will need to test fit with your armor on to see what length fits the best You may want to add some gray or black foam to the seed trays that contact your backplate unless you want to clank about while you troop - Mount the foam using goopy glue or nylon zip ties Weathering There's more weathering tutorials out there than you can shake a Dewback Prod at! If you've weathered your armor, you should use a similar technique to weather the pack - Only you know what looks the best! Don't go hog wild with the dirt - Remember, less is more, and the screen used backpacks had very little weathering on them Congratulations, you're finished! PPOIDH! Post pictures or it didn't happen! Show all of the sandtroopers that Rolf isn't the only one who can build a kick ass backpack

6 Now get out there and knock on some locked doors and watch out for people in bathrobes waving at you!