Thank you! Bill Krier Editor WOOD magazine

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1 Thank you! Thank you for ordering a Downloadable WOOD PLN. We hope you enjoy being a part of this new online experience and that you have fun building your woodworking project. Please remember that this copyrighted material is for your use only. It is unlawful to share this file with someone else or to reprint it in any form. Bill Krier Editor WOOD magazine dobe crobat Troubleshooting Guide If you can read this page, your crobat program is working correctly! But you may still have problems or specific issues such as printing and saving your Downloadable WOOD PLN. My printer won't print the text correctly lmost all printing problems are due to not enough free system resources memory. The files are very memory intensive since they include graphics, text, and photos. Close all other programs/applications and print directly out of the crobat Reader program, not your Web-browser. Patterns are not printing full size Make sure your printer is set to print at 100% and that print to fit is not checked. These settings are selected in the printer setup or printer options. I can't save my file now that it's downloaded You must save the plan when you download the file. Download the file again, except this time try right-clicking on the red download button. menu window will open. Select "Save target as" or "Save link as" to save the file to your hard drive. Once saved, you can open it with dobe crobat Reader. For more details on using dobe crobat Reader please visit our online help section at:

2 DOWNLODBLE ONLINE WOODWORKING PLNS Tilt-Top Router Table n open-and-close shop tool designed for convenience Count the features of this fully loaded router table, and you ll quickly conclude that you ve got to have one. For starters, the table flips up for easy changing of bits and checking bit height. It s topped by an accurate, easy-to-build fence. sealed compartment underneath, fitted with a vacuum port, takes care of sawdust. Below that, you ll find a slideout shelf for storing all kinds of bits and accessories. Plus, we offer an optional table design for use with an aftermarket fence. DP Copyright Meredith Corporation 2003 Page 1 of 12

3 1 CBINET fi" round-over along back corners of the cabinet, starting 4 " from bottom end 35" 19" Hole to fit your vacuum hose 35" Location of O B 20fi" Location of J D E C F Location of K x " notch G H 3" Router-cord access notch 35" 1a SIDE PNEL (Left-hand panel shown) 17 " * " acuum hose hole N 7" M G 7Í" 15fi" 1fi" 45 13Å" 5Œ" C D Mitered end L H F E O 7Á" 26" " chamfer along inside and outside edges of hole I " shank hole, countersunk ll cleats mounted with #8 x 1 " F.H. wood screws J R #8 x 1 " F.H. wood screw 12fi" 18 " *Note: If your material for part P is a full ", allow more than shown for clearance. 17fi" I " 19" " K Å " First, build the cabinet 1 Cut the cabinet sides () and back (B) to sizes listed in the Materials List from " mediumdensity fiberboard (MDF). s noted on the Cutting Diagram on Page 11, MDF measures 1" wider and longer than regular 4 8' sheet goods. 2 sing Drawings 1 and 1a for reference, mark the centerpoint, and cut the vacuum hose hole in the left-hand side panel () to fit your vacuum hose. (We drilled a blade start hole, and cut the hole to shape with a jigsaw.) To prevent chipping, rout a " chamfer along the inside and outside edges of the hose hole. 3 Mark and cut a notch in the right-hand side panel for the cord from the router to exit the cabinet. 4 From " solid stock (we recommend maple or birch), cut the " cleats (C J) to the lengths listed in the Materials List. 5 Next, mark the locations of the cleats on the inside face of each side panel (), as shown in Drawings 1 and 1a. Then, drill countersunk mounting holes in the cleats, and screw them in place, as shown in Photo. 6 Cut the bottom (K), dust-chute pieces (L, M, N), and support (O) to size from MDF. For a tight fit, miter-cut one edge of part L and one end of each D. 7 Glue and clamp the basic cabinet assembly (, B, K, O) together in the configuration shown on Drawing 2 on the following page. Check for square. Then, drill the countersunk holes, and screw the dust-chute pieces (L, M, N) in place. 8 Working on the outside of the cabinet, sand the joints between the two side panels () and back panel (B) smooth. Then, rout a fi" round-over along the back corners of the cabinet, starting 4 " from the bottom ends, Page 3. Mark the cleat locations, drill the mounting holes, and screw the cleats in place on the cabinet sides. Page 2 of 12

4 1fi"-diam. hole, centered -20 x 1fi" F.H. machine screw ˇ" hole, countersunk x 11 x 11 " phenolic router plate Four-arm knob with " insert Router -20 x 1fi" F.H. machine screw Z x 3 x 27 " " flat washer Y " hole, countersunk se " T-nut on bottom side, epoxy in place. fi" rabbet " deep -20 threaded insert Z X R=1fi" Dado to fit miter gauge #8 x 1fi" F.H. wood screw Plastic laminate on top and bottom surfaces fi" hole " deep with a " hole 1 " deep centered inside R=1" W " chamfers 1fi" continuous hinge 19" long 35" " hole fi" deep fi" round-over -20 x 1fi" bolt cut to 1 " long (Stops W with table in full upright position.) fi" round-over O To router L x " notch for router cord 3" from front edge Power switch Magnetic catch Router wrench #8 x 1 " F.H. wood screws 2 EXPLODED IEW fi" round-over T 4" T B " hole, countersunk #8 x 1 " F.H. wood screw " 1 " glide into edge of Magnetic catch K M N R fi" round-over Mitered corner T T 22" ˇ" and " holes for router bits P 18 " 3fi" wire pull fi" from front edge, centered Note: MDF is dense and requires 7 64" pilot holes for #8 x 1 " F.H. wood screws. ˇ" and " holes " deep for router bits Q 18Œ" 3fi" wire pull 2" from side edge of door Cabinet hinge (4" from top and bottom edges) Plate for magnetic catch 3fi" S 20fi" 30Œ" fi" round-overs FILENME Tilt T 2 Page 3 of 12

5 dd the shelf, door, and base trim 1 Cut the router-bit shelf (P) and small-bit holder (Q) to size. Locating the holes to properly space your particular bits, mark the centerpoints, and then drill holes in the shelf for your largediameter bits. Now drill holes in the bit holder (Q) for your small bits. The small-bit holder works great for straight bits, which would fall through the holes in the shelf (P). Next, glue and clamp the bit holder to the shelf. 2 Cut the base-trim support piece (R) to the size listed, and screw it to the front of the cabinet. 3 Cut the door (S) to the size shown in Drawing 2. Rout a fi" round-over along the sides (not the top and bottom) of the door. 4 Drill holes in the door for attaching the wire pull later. 5 ttach the hinges where dimensioned, and mount the door to the cabinet. dd the magnetic catches and strike plates to the door and cabinet. 6 Cut the base-trim pieces (T) to size plus 1" in length from solid stock. Rout a fi" round-over along the top outside edge of each trim piece. Miter-cut the trim pieces to length. Working from the inside of the cabinet, drill countersunk mounting holes, and then glue and screw the trim pieces to the bottom outside of the cabinet. 7 Turn the cabinet upside down, and nail four glides in place. Here s how to add the tilting top Note: On this project, we give you the option of two different tabletops. The instructions below detail building the 28" square standard top. You ll also find dimensions for the larger 28 36" table, shown in Photo C on Page 11, that s designed to work with an Incra Jig ltra. 1 Cut two pieces of " MDF to 29" square for the tabletop (), shown in Drawing 3, and detailed in Drawings 6 and 7. 2 Glue and clamp the two pieces together face-to-face. To achieve uniform clamping pressure in the center of the lamination, drill several pilot holes from what will become the underside of the tabletop, and then drive several #8 1 " screws into the upper lamination. Next, using clamps along the edges, secure the two pieces tightly together until the glue dries. Now remove all the screws so you won t hit them in the following steps. 3 Cut the laminated router top () to finished size (28" square), radiusing the corners at 1". 4 Cut two pieces of plastic laminate to 30" square. pply contact cement to all mating surfaces, and adhere the laminate to both surfaces of the tabletop (). se a rubber roller to ensure a good bond between the laminate and MDF. 5 sing a trimming bit, rout the edges of the laminate flush with the edges of the tabletop as shown in Photo B. 6 Cut or rout a dado in the top (), where dimensioned, to form a slot that fits your miter-gauge guide bar. B sing contact cement, adhere the two oversized pieces of plastic laminate to the laminated top. Then, rout the edges of the laminate flush. Page 4 of 12

6 3 SIDE SECTION IEW -20 x 1fi" F.H. machine screw " prongless T-nut -20 threaded insert 9" O 3 " S W 7 " L Hinge 1fi" Page 5 of 12

7 4 FORM THE ROTER-PLTE RECESS Step 1 Position the plate 5" from the front edge on top of and centered side-to-side. Centered side-to-side Step 3 Lay out and mark the opening cutlines inside the traced outline. Step 4 Drill a blade start hole, and cut the opening. Traced outline Cutlines FRONT EDGE 5" 11 x 11 " router plate FRONT EDGE 5" 10 " 10 " fi" 2" fi" 2" Step 2 Trace outline of the plate onto the top of. Step 6 Clamp the guide boards around the plate, spacing each board away from the plate Î" with business-card shims. Step 5 Secure router plate inside traced outline with double-faced tape. Guide board 4 FRONT EDGE Guide board 1 Spacers Router plate Guide board 2 Guide board 3 Step 7 Remove the router plate and shims. se a portable router and straight bit with a top-mounted pilot bearing. With the router base resting on the surfaces of the guide boards, adjust the cutting depth to rout " deep into the tabletop. Then, guiding the bit s pilot bearing along the inside edges of the guide boards, rout the recess. Make additional passes, lowering the bit each time until you reach a depth equal to the thickness of the router plate. Page 6 of 12

8 Cut the table insert into the top Note: We secured the router plate to the tabletop with screws and T-nuts so that the plate (with the router attached) can t fall out when tipping the tabletop back. See the Buying Guide for our source for the router plate and hardware. 1 The router plate we used (see the Buying Guide) is listed as a 12"-square plate, but actually measured a bit less. sing a tablesaw, cut adjoining edges to square up the plate, then trim it to 11 " square. 2 Follow the seven-steps, described in Drawing 4, to form the router-plate recess in the top (). 3 Mark the centerpoints, and then drill ˇ" holes in the corners of the router plate, where dimensioned in Drawing 7. Fit the router plate in the recess, and use the holes as guides to drill through the corners of the recess in the top (). 4 sing epoxy, adhere a " prongless T-nut into each ˇ" hole on the underside side of the router tabletop. 5 Carefully mark the centerpoint on the router plate. Now, bore a 1fi" hole (or one slightly larger than the diameter of your largest-diameter router bit) through the center of the router plate. 6 Countersink the ˇ" holes in the router plate for the -20 1fi" flathead machine screws. 7 Remove the baseplate from your router. sing the holes in your baseplate as guides, mark and drill corresponding holes in the router plate. Countersink or counterbore the holes, as required for your router, and then mount your router to the router plate. Place the router and router plate into the tabletop recess, and secure the plate with machine screws. Hinge location Location of part B 5 ROTER TBLETOP (Bottom view) 3 " 28" 19" ˇ" hole 4 " 5a SPPORT BLOCK DETIL -20 x 1fi" F.H. machine screw fi" rabbet " deep on top side 15 " " lock nut W 3 " 3 " Location of part Locations of parts 28" R " flat washer " hole, countersunk FRONT OF TBLE Page 7 of 12

9 6a THREDED INSERT LOCTION DETIL 6 ROTER TOP (Top view) 5" 2 1 /2" 2 1 /2" 1 /4-20 threaded inserts Fence 2 3 /4" R=1" B 3 /8" holes 5 1 /8" Y Centerline X 28" Dado to fit miter gauge. 3 /4" S 3 1 /4" 5" 28" FRONT OF TBLE Radius corners to match rabbeted recess. 7 ROTER PLTE " " ˇ" hole, countersunk for a -20 x 1fi" F.H. machine screw 1fi" hole, centered Page 8 of 12

10 8 FENCE " 10" 2fi" 5" 2fi" " Z 2 " 2 " 1 " 2" ˇ" slots 2ˇ" long 10fi" Z 24" X Z 2fi" 2" 3" Top view R=1" 12" Front view R=1" 27 " Y 13Œ" 3" 9 PIOT BLOCK FLL-SIZE PTTERN 10 MONTING PLTE INCR JIG LTR Top view PIOT BLOCK FLL-SIZE PTTERN 1 " 15 " 7 " 7 " 3 " 3 " 1" " shank holes, countersunk on bottom edge 3" 6" 8" 3" 1" " hole fl" " holes, countersunk " stock Centerline Side view 1 " Page 9 of 12

11 11 OPTIONL LRGE ROTER TBLETOP (Bottom view) -20 threaded inserts 7 " 7 " 1 " R=fi" fi" Hinge location Location of part B " holes, countersunk 3" Location of mounting plate " hole, countersunk this side 13 SPPORT BR FLL-SIZE PTTERN 19" ˇ" hole 4 " 3 " W SPPORT BR FLL-SIZE HLF PTTERN 10 " 15 " Join pattern here. 3 " x 1 x 12" aluminum fi" 3 " Location of part Locations of parts 28" FRONT OF TBLE S 1" 12 OPTIONL LRGE ROTER TBLETOP (Top view) Incra Jig ltra Mounting plate 1 "-diam. plastic knob 1" 5" 36" Join pattern here. W SPPORT BR FLL-SIZE HLF PTTERN Dado to fit miter gauge. " 3 " 5" 28" FRONT OF TBLE R=1" Page 10 of 12

12 dding a fence system Note: In addition to the accurate, easy-to-build fence shown, we designed this router tabletop to be compatible with a number of fence systems, including the Incra Jig ltra, below right. Before installing another brand fence, check the manufacturer s mounting requirements. 1 Cut the fence (X), base (Y), and braces (Z) to the sizes listed in the Materials List and shown in Drawing 8 on Page 9. Cut the mounting slots in the base (Y), where shown. 2 Lay out and cut the 1"-radius bitclearance openings in the fence and base. Now glue and screw these parts together, and add the braces to form the completed fence assembly. 3 Mark the centerpoints for the threaded inserts on the router top () where dimensioned in Drawing 6a on Page 8. 4 Drill a fi" hole at each marked centerpoint just through the laminate ( " deep). (We used a Forstner bit to make this recess.) Switch bits, and drill a " hole 1 " deep centered in each fi" hole. (If you are using the Incra Jig, follow the dimensions on Drawings 10, 11, and 12.) 5 Double-nut a bolt, and use it to drive a threaded insert into each hole. Now attach the tabletop support 1 From " maple, drill the holes and cut the pivot block () to shape, as dimensioned in Drawing 9 on Page 9. 2 Transfer the support bar (W) pattern from Drawing 13 to 1" aluminum bar stock. Cut the piece to shape, and drill a hole through one end, where marked. 3 Drill pilot holes, and glue and screw the pivot block () to the bottom of the router top, where shown on Drawing 5. Then, attach the support bar to the pivot block. Finishing and final assembly 1 Remove the router plate and router from the router tabletop. Separate the top from the base cabinet. Remove the hardware, and sand the cabinet and tabletop edges smooth. Fill any imperfections and finish-sand. 2 Prime the base cabinet. (We did this in several coats, using a sanding block with 220-grit sandpaper between coats to smooth the primer.) Paint the base cabinet as desired. pply a clear finish to edges of the router tabletop. 3 Hinge the router top and door to the cabinet. Reattach the magnetic catches and pulls. Then, reattach the router with attached plate to the router tabletop. 4 ttach the fence system of your choice. ttach a power switch to the cabinet, and plug the router cord into the switch. Fit your vacuum hose into the opening, and you re ready for business. Written by Marlen Kemmet Project design: Jim Downing Illustrations: Roxanne LeMoine; Lorna Johnson Photographs: Hetherington Photography Cutting Diagram R B x 49 x 97" Medium-density fiberboard Scrap to form guide boards S Y x 49 x 97" Medium-density fiberboard Q T T T T x 7 x 96" Maple X Z x 3fi x 48" Maple (MDF measures 49 x 97") L O N M K P C, D, E, F, G, H, I, J C Page 11 of 12

13 Cabinet Bill of Materials FINISHED SIZE T W L Matl. CBINET side " 19" 35" MF 2 B back " 20fi" 35" MF 1 C* cleats " " 5Œ" M 2 D* cleats " " 4Œ" M 2 E* cleats " " 26" M 2 F* cleats " " 13Å" M 2 G* cleats " " 7Í" M 2 H* cleats " " 18 " M 4 I* cleats " " 17fi" M 2 J* cleats " " 19" M 2 K bottom " 19" 19" MF 1 L sloped dust panel " 15Œ" 19" MF 1 M bottom dust panel " 7 " 19" MF 1 N dust bin front " 3" 19" MF 1 O support " 7 " 19" MF 1 P shelf " 18 " 18Œ" MF 1 Q bit holder " 1fi" 16 " M 1 R support " 4" 20fi" MF 1 S door " 20fi" 30Œ" MF 1 T* base trim " 4" 22" M 4 MRouter mantel Table 1fi" 10Œ" * SS * * top " 28" 28" LMF 1 pilot block " 1" 2 " M 1 W support bar " 1" 12" 1 WFencemantel 1fi" 10Œ" * SS * X base " 10fi" 24" MF 1 Y fence " 3" 27 " M 1 Z braces " 2 " 2 " M 2 Qty*. *Parts initially cut oversize. See the instructions. Materials key: MF medium density fiberboard, M maple or birch, LMF laminated medium-density fiberboard, aluminum. Supplies: 12 12" phenolic router plate, #8 1 " flathead wood screws, 1fi" continuous hinge 19" long with mounting screws, -20 1fi" flathead machine screws (6), " flat washers (2), " prongless T-nuts (4), power switch, one pair of cabinet hinges (we used merock #BP-5988-M26), 1 " glides (4), 3fi" wire pulls (2), pair of magnetic catches and strike plates, plastic laminate, contact cement, -20 threaded inserts (4), fourarm knobs (2), 20 1fi" bolt trimmed to 1 " long, 1" aluminum bar stock for support bar (part W), primer, paint, and clear finish. Buying Guide Tilt-top router-table kit. The kit contains everything noted in the Supplies listing above except the plastic laminate, power switch, contact cement, primer, paint, and finish. Kit no. TTRT, $54.95 ppd. Schlabaugh and Sons Woodworking, th St. Kalona, I; 800/ Incra Jig. Several models are available. For more information, contact Incra at 972/ or Page 12 of 12

14 Thanks for your order! Now that you've got a detailed plan to build that perfect project, visit the WOOD MLL for the internet's largest source for woodworking tools and accessories. The WOOD MLL offers: Over two dozen woodworking-related stores More than 50,000 tools & accessories 24-Hour shopping Special sales & closeouts Nearly 40 tool comparison charts FREE monthly woodworking seminar isit Today! Like no other magazine, WOOD helps you make the most of your shop time... takes your skills to the next level. Every issue of WOOD is jam-packed with... Smart tips, tricks, secrets and shortcuts that save you time, effort and money aluable tool reviews with at-a-glance information charts that give you helpful product comparisons Giant full-size pattern pull-outs Crystal-clear step-bystep instructions, exploded diagrams, finishing secrets and techniques for that professional look everything you need to bring out your woodworking genius! Current issue not shown 2 years (14 issues) just $44 SE $39.30 off single-copy rate! 1 year (7 issues) just $26 SE $15.65 off single-copy rate! Payment Enclosed Bill Me Fill out information below and mail to: WOOD Magazine P.O. BOX 37439, Boone, I or Subscribe Online at My Name (please print) ddress pt. # City State Zip Canadian Orders: Fill in the form above. Your rate will be 1 year (7 issues) for $41 SE $14.65, or 2 years (14 issues) for $67 SE $ Prices include postage; 7% GST or 15% HST is added. # RT.S. and Canadian subscribers: You also may order by credit card. Call toll free weekdays from 7 a.m. to 10 p.m. Central Time; Saturdays, 8 a.m. to 3 p.m.; Sundays, 9 a.m. to 3 p.m. Other International Orders: 2 years for $89.S. or 1 year for $49.S.; prices include postage. To order by credit card call 515/ during the same hours as listed above (toll charged). Or complete this form; mail with S funds to: WOOD Magazine, P.O. Box 37439, Boone, I S. Your Money-Back Guarantee: You must be satisfied with your subscription or you can get a refund for all unmailed issues. WOOD Magazine is published 7 times a year. Savings are based on $5.95.S., $7.95 Canadian single-copy rate. The first issue mails in 8-12 weeks. Subscription prices subject to change. 4HMF

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