Thank you! Larry Clayton Editor WOOD magazine. Adobe Acrobat Troubleshooting Guide

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Thank you! Thank you for ordering a DOWNLOADABLE WOOD PLAN. We hope you enjoy being a part of this new hi-tech experience, and that you have fun building your woodworking project.

1 Thank you! Thank you for ordering a DOWNLOADABLE WOOD PLAN. We hope you enjoy being a part of this new hi-tech experience, and that you have fun building your woodworking project. Please remember that this copyrighted material is for your use only. It is unlawful to share this file with someone else or to reprint it in any form. Adobe Acrobat Troubleshooting Guide Larry Clayton Editor WOOD magazine My printer won't print the text Try setting the print quality at normal or economy rather than best quality or reduce dpi to 150 rather than 300 dpi. These settings are selected in the printer setup or printer options. Patterns are not printing full size Make sure your printer is set to print at 100% and that print to fit is not checked. These settings are selected in the printer setup or printer options. HP printers Make sure you are using the latest printer drivers. Printer drivers are available from Hewlett Packard s web site: Printer driver installation instructions are also available at its web site. I can't save a file after it downloads Adobe Acrobat does not have a save function. You must save the file when you download the file. Download the file again, except this time try right-clicking on the download button or link to plan file. A menu window will open. Select "Save target as" or "Save link as" to save the file to your hard drive. Once saved, you can open it with Adobe Acrobat Reader.

DOWNLOADABLE PROJECT PLANS FROM THE EDITORS OF WOOD MAGAZINE http://www.woodmagazine.

When I was researching the article on furnituremaker Thomas Moser for the August 1998 issue, I casually mentioned to him

2 DOWNLOADABLE PROJECT PLANS FROM THE EDITORS OF WOOD MAGAZINE Shaker Reflections Cherry classic with splined miter joints Talk about luck! When I was researching the article on furnituremaker Thomas Moser for the August 1998 issue, I casually mentioned to him that we re always looking for great project designs. To my surprise, an hour or so later, he handed me shop drawings for this and several other beautifully designed Shaker pieces. Editor-In-Chief Page 1 of 5

3 Bill of Materials Finished Size Part T W L Matl. Qty. A* stiles fi" 1 17" C 2 B* rails fi" 1 12" C 2 C back " 10Ø" 15Ø" P 1 D hanger 5" 2 C 1 E support fl" Œ" 12" C 1 F support fi" 12" C 1 *Cut parts marked with an * oversized. Trim to finished size according to the how-to instructions. Materials Key: C cherry, P plywood or hardboard Supplies: 3 #8 flathead wood screws, " mirror, 4 " pointed turn buttons held in place with 18 escutcheon pins, 3 mini-shaker pegs 1fi" long (1 " including tenon), 1 #4 roundhead brass wood screw, 12" leather lacing, clear finish. Start with the basic mirror frame 1 From fi" stock (we used cherry), cut the mirror-frame stiles (A) and rails (B) to the sizes listed in the Bill of Materials plus in length. 2 Fit your table-mounted router with a " round-over bit, and rout a round over along what will be the inside front edge of each stile and rail. 3 Fit your tablesaw with a dado blade, and cut a fl" rabbet deep along what will be the back inside edge of each stile and rail. 4 Miter-cut the stiles (A) and rails (B) to finished length. 5 Glue and clamp the frame pieces (A, B) together, checking for tight miters and square corners. Construct the jig and cut the splines 1 Construct the jig shown on the Spline-Cutting Jig drawing on page 5. Use glue to adhere the hardboard support to the 1fi" base piece. Do not use metal fastners. 2 Fit your tablesaw with a " blade, and raise the blade 1 " above the surface of the saw table. 3 Position the jig on tablesaw, and locate the fence so the blade cuts into the base " from the inside face of the support. Place a piece of fi" stock in the notch in the jig and make a test When kerfing the corners of the mirror frame, we used featherboards to hold the jig firmly against the rip fence. Page 2 of 5

4 B 15Ø" HOLE DETAIL hole fi" " R=1fi" hole 2 D " shank hole, countersunk on back 5" 1fi" 3 Leather lacing goes into this hole Trim after assembly. x 1 x 2 spline 17" 2 " A Leather lacing 12" long, knotted every fi" SPLINE DETAIL " " x 1 x 2 spline #4 x R.H. brass wood screw, mounted ˇ" from top edge A 1 #18 x escutcheon pin " pointed turn button fl" rabbets deep " round-overs B 12" 10Ø" Mirror x 10Ø x 15Ø" C EXPLODED VIEW 12" hole ˇ" deep, centered top to bottom F 4fi" mini-shaker peg 1fi" long " #8 x F.H. wood screw fl" E 1fi" ˇ" Page 3 of 5

5 SPLINE-CUTTING JIG Do not use metal fasteners to secure the support to the base. Á" 15" 45 cuts 1fi" Blade raised 1 ", Á" from fence " 1 " 7fi" Support x 15 x 8" hardboard Base 1fi x 1fi x 15" solid stock SUPPORT " fl" fi" Œ" E F 3fi" 5" 3fi" 5" notch deep along back edge for part D cut. The kerf needs to be centered in the stock. Now, as shown in the photo on page 2, clamp the mirror frame to the jig support, and cut a kerf in a corner of the mirror frame. Repeat for each corner of the frame. 4 Cut spline material from cherry stock to the same thickness as your tablesaw blade ( " in our case). Cut four splines measuring 1 2 each. Glue and clamp the splines into the kerfs in the mirror frame. Tap the splines lightly so there s not a gap between the inside edge of the spline and the bottom of the angled kerf. Later, trim the splines flush with the edges of the mirror frame and sand the mirror frame smooth. 5 Cut the mirror back (C) to the size of the rabbeted opening minus " in length and width. Form the hanger and support next 1 Cut a piece of cherry to 5" wide by 2 long for the hanger (D). Using the dimensions on the Exploded View drawing, lay out the hanger shape on the hanger blank. To do this, mark a 1fi" radius at the top of the hanger. Connect the sides of the radius with the bottom corners of the hanger. 2 Mark the and holes, where shown on the drawing and accompanying detail. Drill the hole for the leather lacing. (We got ours at Tandy Leather.) Cut the notch with a scrollsaw or coping saw. Then, drill the hanging hole where marked. 3 Cut the hanger (D) to shape, and sand the edges smooth. 4 Cut support parts (E, F) to the sizes listed in the Bill of Materials. Then cut a 5" notch deep centered in the back edge of part E, where shown on the Support drawing. 5 Keeping the bottom edges flush, glue and clamp the two support Page 4 of 5

6 pieces together, where shown on the drawings. 6 Using the dimensions on the Exploded View drawing for reference, mark the centerpoints on the front edge of part F, and drill the holes that receive the mini-shaker peg tenons. Let the assembly begin 1 Sand the support (E/F) and the hanger (D) smooth. Drill the holes, and glue and screw the hanger to the support, where shown on the Side View drawing. 2 Glue the mini-shaker pegs in place. 3 Finish the cherry mirror frame and hanger/support with a clear finish. (We used Deft semigloss lacquer.) 4 Have the mirror cut to fit the opening minus " in length and width. 5 Install the mirror with the back (C) and turn buttons. 6 Cut a piece of Î " leather to 12" long, and tie knots in the lacing every fi". Drill a hole through one end of the lacing, and secure the lacing to the back of the mirror frame with a #4 roundhead brass wood screw. Leather lacing 12" long, knotted every fi" SIDE VIEW A D Produced by Marlen Kemmet Project Design: Thomas Moser Illustrations: Roxanne LeMoine; Lorna Johnson Graphic Design: Jamie Downing Copyright Meredith Corporation 2000 fi" The purchase of these plans does not transfer any copyright or other ownership interest in the plans, the design, or the finished project to the buyer. Buyer may neither reproduce the plans for sale nor offer for sale any copies of the finished project. " F E Œ" 1 " Page 5 of 5

Woodworking has never been more satisfying! With WOOD Magazine at your side, you can take your skills to the next level. Just look at all the help you get in a year.

7 Woodworking has never been more satisfying! With WOOD Magazine at your side, you can take your skills to the next level. Just look at all the help you get in a year... Over 56 shop-tested projects Full-size pull-out patterns Clear step-by-step instructions Skill-building tips, tricks, and shortcuts Tool reviews you can trust Handy shop jigs and fixtures Full-color photos And more! Current issue not shown 2 years (18 issues) just $42 SAVE $65.10 off single-copy rate! 1 year (9 issues) just $27 SAVE $26.55 off single-copy rate! Payment Enclosed Bill Me Fill out information below and mail to: WOOD Magazine PO BOX 55049, BOULDER, CO My Name (please print) Address Apt. # City State Zip Canadian Orders: Fill in the form above. Your rate will be 1 year (9 issues) for $39 SAVE $23.55, or 2 years (18 issues) for $63 SAVE $ Prices include postage; 7% GST or 15% HST is added. # RT U.S. and Canadian subscribers: You also may order by credit card. Call toll free weekdays from 7 a.m. to 10 p.m. Central Time; Saturdays, 8 a.m. to 3 p.m.; Sundays, 9 a.m. to 3 p.m. Other International Orders: 2 years for $78 U.S. or 1 year for $45 U.S.; prices include postage. To order by credit card call during the same hours as listed above (toll charged). Or complete this form; mail with US funds to: WOOD Magazine, P.O. Box 55050, Boulder, CO USA. Your Money-Back Guarantee: You must be satisfied with your subscription or you can get a refund for all unmailed issues. WOOD Magazine is published 9 times a year. Savings are based on $5.95 U.S., $6.95 Canadian singlecopy rate. The first issue mails in 8-12 weeks. Subscription prices subject to change. Thanks for your order! 4HMF

Thank you! Larry Clayton Editor WOOD magazine. Adobe Acrobat Troubleshooting Guide

Thank you! Larry Clayton Editor WOOD magazine. Adobe Acrobat Troubleshooting Guide Thank you! Thank you for ordering a DOWNLOADABLE WOOD PLAN. We hope you enjoy being a part of this new hi-tech experience, and that you have fun building your woodworking project. Please remember that