Futon Coffee Table. Double-Duty

Transcription

1 OWNLOL PROT PLNS ROM TH ITORS O WOO MGZIN ouble-uty uton offee Table Whether or not you ve built the previously published pieces in our futon set, you ll enjoy making and using this stylish coffee table. Naturally finished oak provides sturdy good looks, guaranteeing a lifetime of service. page 1 of 10

2 Part * top front & rails 1fi" 2 " 41fi" *top end rails wainscoting ˇ" 3 " 6 " OW 38 G cleats " " 43fi" O 2 3 /4 x 7 1 /4 x 96" Oak 3 /4 x 7 1 /4 x 7 Oak (2 needed) 3 /4 x 9 1 /4 x 60" Oak 3 /4 x 7 1 /4 x 96" Oak 3 /4 x 9 1 /4 x 96" Oak 1 /4 x 24 x 48" Oak plywood 3 /4 x 9 1 /4 x 7 Oak ill of Materials I G inished Size T W L 1fi" 2 " 1fi" G 2 " * bottom end rails 1fi" 2 " 17fi" LO 2 H H 41fi" 17fi" 5 /16 x 3 3 /8 x 3 Wainscoting (10 needed) UTTING IGRM Matl. Qty. * legs 1fi" 3 " 16 " LO 8 *btm. front & rails LO 2 LO 2 LO 2 H cleats " " 18" O 2 I bottom panel " 19fi" 43fi" OP 1 * lid " 24" 48" O 1 cleats " 1 " 19" O 2 *Initially cut parts marked with an * oversized. Trim to finished size according to the instructions. Materials ey: LO laminated oak, OW oak wainscoting, O oak, OP oak plywood, O edge-joined oak. Supplies: #8 " flathead wood screws, #8 1 " flathead wood screws, #8 1 " flathead wood screws, 4 #8 roundhead wood screws with 4 #8 flat washers, one right-hand lid support (rainerd R1086X) and one left-hand lid support (rainerd L1086X), 1fi" continuous brass hinge 46fi" long with #6 fi" flathead brass wood screws, stain, clear finish. Start by forming the legs 1 To form the 1fi"-thick legs (), cut 16 pieces of "-thick oak to 3fi" wide by 17" long. (Since 1fi"-thick oak can be difficult to find, we laminated two pieces of " stock to form the 1fi"- thick legs.) 2 With the edges and ends flush, glue and clamp two pieces face-to-face to form each of the eight legs. ut or plane both edges of each leg for a 3ˇ" width (you ll bevel-rip it to exact width later). Trim both ends of each leg for the 16 " finished length. 3 Hold the eight leg sections together face-to-face with the ends flush. Using the Leg drawing for reference, use a square to mark the mortise and groove locations on the inside edge of each leg. Use the square to verify that the marked mortises align. 4 Use your drill press, fence, and a " orstner bit centered over the joint line to drill " holes Å" deep to remove most of the stock from each marked mortise as shown in the photo on page 3. hisel the mortise corners square. evel-rip the legs, and add the splines 1 Tilt your tablesaw blade to 45, and bevel-rip one edge (the edge opposite the mortises) of each leg, cutting the leg to its final width of 3 " where shown on the evel-rip the Legs drawing on the next page. page 2 of 10

3 VL-RIP TH LGS 3 /8" 1 1 / 3 /8" 3/8" ence 3 1 /4" Saw blade tilted to 45 O LG 3 /4 x mortise 13/16" deep ence Tablesaw Waste UT TH SPLIN GROOVS * 5 /16" groove 3/8" deep centered on edge. Groove stops at both mortises /4" 3/4 x mortise 13 /16" deep 5 5 /8" 1 3 /8" Saw blade tilted to 45 O 13/16" *Note: Groove width is determined by thickness of wainscoting. Measure your wainscoting thickness before cutting groove. 1 1 /4" 3 1 /4" 5 page 3 of 10

4 Remove most of the waste from the marked mortises with a orstner bit, using a fence and stops on your drillpress table for alignment. 2 Using the Spline detail accompanying the xploded View drawing for reference, tilt your tablesaw blade 45 from center, and cut a " spline slot fi" deep along the bevel-ripped edge of each leg where shown in the ut the Spline Grooves drawing. 3 ut four pieces of "-thick stock to Í 16 " long to form the four splines. Next, glue and clamp the mating pieces () for each leg as shown in the photo on the next page. eep the leg ends flush and the miter joints tight when gluing and clamping. Machine the rails and wainscoting next 1 To form the 1fi"-thick bottom and top rails (,,, ), cut "-thick stock to the sizes listed in the ill of Materials plus " in width and fi" in length. 2 Glue and clamp the pieces together the same way you laminated the leg pieces earlier. Later, cut the rails (,,, ) to the width and then the length listed in the ill of Materials and shown on the Parts View drawing. 3 Purchase enough oak wainscoting for the front, back, and end frames (we purchased ours at a local home center). Measure the thickness of the wainscoting (ours measured ˇ" thick). Now, use a router and a straight bit to cut a ˇ" groove centered along the inside edge of each leg. Use a stop to end the groove at the mortises. The groove needs to be as wide as your wainscoting is thick. 4 ut a ˇ" groove 1 " deep centered along the bottom edge of the top rails (, ). If you rout this groove, do it in several passes, raising the bit each pass. o not attempt to rout the 1 "- deep groove in one pass, you might snap the bit. Then, cut or rout a ˇ" groove " deep centered along the top edge of the bottom rails (, ). 5 Using the dimensions on the Tenon detail on the rame ssembly drawing and the rails (,,, ) on the Parts View drawing, cut the tenons on each end of each rail. 6 Transfer the pattern from the Parts View drawing, mark the curved cutline, and cut and sand the bottom edge of the top rails (, ) to shape. 7 rosscut the oak wainscoting () to length. inish-sand both surfaces of each piece. O, let s assemble the oak end frames 1 ry-clamp (no glue) the front and back frames (,,,) to check the fit. You ll need to trim the outside edge of each end piece of wainscoting. The outside edges should protrude into the "-deep groove about ˇ". Mark the taper cutline on the bottom of each leg so the top end of the taper stops just below the point where the bottom rail () meets the legs (). 2 ut the tapers, and sand to remove the saw marks. 3 Glue and clamp the two frames together, checking for square. (We did not glue the tongue-and-groove joints between the individual wainscoting pieces, nor did we find it necessary to glue the wainscoting in the grooves.) 4 To house the continuous hinge later, cut a " rabbet " deep along the top back edge of the back panel where shown on the xploded View drawing and accompanying Lid Hinge detail. 5 heck the fit of the remaining rails and wainscoting (,, ) between the assembled front and back frames. Trim the outside edge of each end piece of wainscoting, and then glue and clamp the pieces in place. 6 ut the cleats (G, H) to size. rill countersunk mounting holes, and glue and screw them in place flush with the bottom edge of the bottom rails (, ). 7 Measure the opening, and cut the " plywood bottom (I) to size. rill mounting holes along the edges, fit it in place, drill pilot holes into the cleats, and screw the bottom (I) in place. Now, let s make the lid 1 Using the straightest and flattest boards available, edge-join enough stock to form a lid blank measuring 25 49" for the lid (). To help align the boards, you may want to spline or biscuit-join the mating edges of each board. 2 eeping the boards flat, glue and clamp them together, edge-to-edge. ouble-check the clamp-up with a straightedge to verify flatness, and reclamp if necessary. page 4 of 10

5 Use handscrew clamps to hold the splined leg pieces together at a right angle until the glue dries. 3 Trim the lid () to finished size, and rout a " round-over along all edges. Sand the lid smooth. 4 ut the cleats () to size. Miter-cut a 30 chamfer at each end. rill the mounting holes and form the slots in each cleat where shown on the Parts View drawing. rill the pilot holes, and screw the cleats to the bottom side of the lid. Now, back the screw off in each slot about a half-turn. This allows the lid to expand and contract with seasonal changes in humidity. 5 ttach the lid to the base with the continuous hinge and lid supports where shown on the xploded View drawing and accompanying Lid Hinge and Lid Support details. Sand, stain, finish, and assemble 1 Remove the top from the table base. Then, mask off the hinge or remove it from the base and top. Remove the lid supports. inish-sand the table base and top. 2 Stain if desired (we left ours natural), and apply a clear finish (we applied several coats of satin polyurethane, rubbing between coats with Scotch- rite pads). 3 Reattach the hinge connecting the top to the base. Screw the lid supports back in place. Produced by Marlen emmet Project esign: huck Hedlund Written by: Larry ohnston Illustrations: im owning, Lorna ohnson Graphic esign: amie owning OPYRIGHT MRITH ORPORTION 1998 page 5 of 10

6 Mitered corner 16" for nd Panels 40" for ront and ack Panels and 3 /4 x tenon long 3/4 x mortises 13 /16" deep * 5 /16" groove 1 1 /4" deep 6 3 /8" oint line centered along edge * 5 /16" groove 3/8" deep and 16 5 /8" for nd Panels 40 5 /8" for ront and ack Panels RM SSMLY *Note: Groove width is determined by thickness of wainscoting. Measure your wainscoting thickness before cutting groove /4" 1 1 / 3/8" 3 /8" TNON TIL 2 5 /16" 3/8" * 5 /16" groove 3/8" deep centered on edge oint line 3 /8" 3 /4 x tenon long *Note: Groove for wainscoting in upper rails and is 1 1 /4" deep. page 6 of 10

7 1 /8" spline groove 1 / deep into each leg 1/8 x 15 /16" spline 16 1 /4" long 45 O miter Lid 1 1 / brass continuous hinge 46 1 / long 1 /8" LI SUPPORT TIL 4 1 / 5 /3 slot 1/ long #8 flat washer #8 x R.H. wood screw Lid support SPLIN TIL (TOP VIW) 9/16" 1/8" #6 x 1 /.H. brass wood screw LI HING TIL rabbet 1/8" deep along back edge 2 7 /8" 1 1 /16" 48" 5" 1 /8" round-over along all edges of top 5" 2 1 / 4" 24" 4" 7/64" pilot hole 1 / deep 1 1 /2 x 46 1 / brass continuous hinge #6 x 1 /.H. wood screws #8 x 1.H. wood screw #8 flat washer #8 x R.H. wood screw Lid support 3 /3 pilot hole 1/ deep 1 /8" spline grooves 1 / deep 1 /8 x 15 /16" spline 16 1 /4" long rabbet 1 /8" deep along back edge Lid support G 19 1 / 43 1 / H I 5 /3 hole, countersunk leats are flush with bottom edge of lower rails. #8 x.h. wood screw H #8 x 1 1 /4".H. wood screws 1 /8 x 15 /16" spline 16 1 /4" long G 46 1 / XPLO VIW 45 O miter page 7 of 10

8 PRTS VIW 41 1 / for 17 1 / for 3 /8" and TOP RILS /4" 1" 5 /16" groove 1 1 /4" deep, centered on bottom edge 3 /8" 3 /4 x tenons long 5 /16" groove 3 /8" deep, 3 /8" centered on top edge 3 /8" and OTTOM RILS / for 17 1 / for 3 /8" page 8 of 10

9 5 /3 slot 1 / long PRTS VIW 5 /3 hole, countersunk 5 /3 slot 1 / long 7 1 / 7 1 / TOP VIW 3/8" 19" LT 1 3 /8" SI VIW 30 O page 9 of 10

10 PRTS VIW 3 /3 hole, countersunk H LT 18" 7" 7" 3/3 hole, countersunk LT G 43 1 / 2 1 / 9 5 /8" 9 5 /8" 9 5 /8" 9 5 /8" 2 1 / The purchase of these plans does not transfer any copyright or other ownership interest in the plans, the design, or the finished project to the buyer. uyer may neither reproduce the plans for sale nor offer for sale any copies of the finished project. page 10 of 10