The Q Frame PROJECT. a picture frame with secrets created exclusively for the Router Forum
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1 The Q Frame PROJECT a picture frame with secrets created exclusively for the Router Forum 007 OR RELEASE FPLANS APPROVED
2 The Q Frame: Project Overview LIST OF MATERIALS Frame Sides & Face 3/4 x 5 1/2 x 72 Oak Box Sides 1/2 x 4 x 24 Poplar Box Bottom 1/4 x 14 x 12 MDF Glass 8 x 10 Acrylic Photo Backing 1/4 x 8 x 10 Plywood Latch Plunger 3/8 x 8 Dowel Latch Lock 3/16 x 3 Dowel Latch Spring 5/16 x 1/2 Compression Frame Connector (2) 1/4 pin Shelf Support Turn Button (4 ) Wood Screw (2) #8 x 1/2 Flathead Machine Bolt 1/2 x 1 1/4 Dowels 3/8 x 12 and 3/16 x 6 Latch RECOMMENDED TOOLS Router with table 1/8 round-over bit 1/2 rabbeting bit 3/8 keyhole bit Drill press Hand-held drill Self-centering drill guide Drill bits: 1/4, 3/8, 25/64, 7/16 Table saw T he Q Frame is a picture frame with a hidden interior storage compartment accessed by releasing a hidden latch disguised as a dowel joint. The frame sits flush against the wall when closed and has no visible hinges or latches. This project can be built with standard dimensional lumber available from the usual big box stores. I used an oak 1 x 6, some 1/4 mdf and ply and some 1/2 poplar. Feel free to substitute whatever materials will work best for you. The frame has two basic sections: An outer frame that surrounds a box hidden inside. Keyhole slots make it easy to attach the box to the wall and the outer frame attaches to the box with cantilever hinges that allow it to swing open and closed. A disguised dowel plunger operates a hidden latch that locks and unlocks the frame. The outer frame has two major components: the face and the sides. The sides of the outer frame appear to be joined at the corners with eight 3/8 dowels, however seven of those are cosmetic and one is the plunger for the hidden latch mechanism. I joined the mitered outer frame corners and the box corner butt joints with glue and pin nails but you can use any method you prefer. I joined the frame face with pocket screws and glued it to the frame sides. Pushing in on this dowel releases the secret latch so the frame can be opened to reveal the hidden storage area Plans may not be sold - Router Forums Secret Frame Project by Oliver : page 2
3 The Q Frame: Getting Started CUT LIST OUTER FRAME SECTION Frame Stiles* 2 3/4 x 2 1/2 x 17 Oak Frame Rails* 2 3/4 x 2 1/2 x 15 Oak Long Frame Faces 2 3/4 x 2 1/2 x 12 Oak Short Frame Faces 2 3/4 x 2 1/2 x 10 Oak Glass 1 8 x 10 Acrylic Glass Support 1 1/4 x 8 x 10 Plywood Dowel 3/8 7 x 3/4 Poplar Dowel 3/8 1 x 6 Poplar Dowel 3/16 1 x 3 Poplar Dowel 1/4 1 x 3/8 Poplar BOX SECTION Box Stiles 2 1/2 x 1 1/2 x 1315/16 Poplar Box Rails 2 1/2 x 1 1/2 x 10 3/4 Poplar Box Back 1 1/4 x 11 3/4 x 1315/16 MDF Box Divider 1 1/4 x 1 1/2 x 11 1/4 MDF Cantilever 2 1/2 x 3/4 x 5 1/4 Poplar * Items marked with an asterisk are cut longer than final length to assist in drilling the parts and cutting the miters. Build Order Since the hidden latch is in one of the frame sides, it is easier to build and assemble the outer frame sides first so the other parts can be modified to fit if needed. 1 Rip the 1 x 6 to 2 1/2 for all the outer frame pieces. Then cut to lengths shown in table at left. Rip the 1/2 stock to 1 1/2 and cut to length. 2 Build and assemble the outer frame sides and install the latch assembly. It is important to dry assemble the outer frame sides and test the latch plunger action before gluing. Final assembly can proceed when the plunger moves in and out smoothly. 3 4 Build and assemble the frame face but do not attach to the sides. The face will be attached to the sides at the end of the project. Build the interior box and test the fit and operation of the latch system as you go. The bottom (back) of the box is not attached until the last step of the project Finish can be applied when the box has been completed and the fit of all components has been tested. Attach the frame face to the sides with glue and/or pin nails then connect the outer frame to the box with the cantilever hinges. Attach the box back and the project is finished Plans may not be sold - Router Forums Secret Frame Project by Oliver : page 3
4 The Q Frame: The Outer Frame The outer frame has two key components: Frame Face Frame Sides Outer Frame build steps 1 2 Complete the frame sides and latch assembly Complete the frame face and test fit but do not attach to sides 2013 Plans may not be sold - Router Forums Secret Frame Project by Oliver : page 4
5 The Q Frame: Frame Sides Rabbet supports the Face and conceals the actual thickness of the sides when the frame is assembled. A B This short peg keeps the side opposite the latch closed. A B A: Frame Stiles: 3/4 x 2 1/2 x 15 1/2 B: Frame Rails: 3/4 x 2 1/2 x 13 1/2 Dowel holes and dummy dowels are in the short frame sides The hidden latch assembly is made with two dowels and a compression spring. This is the only operating dowel hole. The others are filled with dummy dowels Plans may not be sold - Router Forums Secret Frame Project by Oliver : page 5
6 The Q Frame: Side Rail Detail RABBET this area B Short dowels are inserted in all Rail holes except the one for the latch plunger. 25/64 Latch plunger hole. The sides are intentionally 1 1/2 longer than finished length to simplify drilling dowel holes and mitering. 1 Drill two holes on each end of the RAILS. All the holes are 3/8 except for one on a lower right corner that is 25/64 for the LATCH plunger. The 25/64 hole gives the plunger enough room for movement without appearing to be loose. 2 Cut seven 3/4 lengths from the 3/8 dowel. Use them to plug all except the latch plunger hole. Mine fit tight enough that glue was not necessary. Sand the dowels flush with the face. 3 Make a 1/4 deep by 1/2 wide rabbet along the top inside edge of each side piece and round-over the edges with a 1/8 round over bit. Note: The rails and stiles are mitered after completing step 6 on the following page Plans may not be sold - Router Forums Secret Frame Project by Oliver : page 6
7 The Q Frame: Right Stile Detail RABBET this area 4 Cut the latch slot in the right Stile (the side adjacent to the latch plunger hole in the Rail) by drilling three 1/4 holes 1/2 deep. Finish the slot with a chisel. 5 Drill a 7/16 hole in the end of the Stile 3 5/8 deep. The oversize diameter allows the 3/8 plunger to smoothly slide in and out. 6 Drill a 1/4 hole 1/4 deep in the left hand stile 7/8 from the bottom edge and centered on the length for the left hand lock peg. 7 Miter the stiles and rails 3/4 from each end. 1/4 Holes drilled for latch slot 1/2 deep Slot cleaned up with chisel Right stile with slot and dowel hole 2013 Plans may not be sold - Router Forums Secret Frame Project by Oliver : page 7
8 The Q Frame: Making the Hidden Latch The hidden latch has three components: A 3/8 dowel plunger that pushes against a compression spring concealed within the right stile of the outer frame, and a 3/16 dowel latch attached to the plunger. 1 Insert the spring and about a 6 length of 3/8 dowel (the plunger) into the right hand stile so the position of the latch can be marked. 2 3 Put slight tension on the spring when marking the plunger for the latch dowel. Drill a 3/16 hole about half-way into the plunger dowel where it is marked for the latch 4 Re-insert the plunger into the stile lining up the latch hole with the slot. Then insert the latch into the plunger. Do not glue the latch to the plunger. 5 6 Dry fit the mitered latch corner and test the movement of the plunger. Remove the plunger and latch and assemble the frame sides by gluing and pin nailing the corners. 7 Trim and sand the plunger flush with the face of the rail. Insert plunger to mark position for latch dowel 3/8 plunger marked for latch hole 2013 Plans may not be sold - Router Forums Secret Frame Project by Oliver : page 8
9 The Q Frame: The Frame Face B A A B A: Long Sections: 3/4 x 2 1/2 x 12 B: Short Sections: 3/4 x 2 1/2 x Plans may not be sold - Router Forums Secret Frame Project by Oliver : page 9
10 The Q Frame: Face Exploded View NOTE the marked corners. (See page 12) When assembling the frame face a chamfered edge always meets a chamfered edge and a square edge is always to the outside to nest against the frame sides. A B A B 2013 Plans may not be sold - Router Forums Secret Frame Project by Oliver : page 10
11 The Q Frame: Face Detail Rabbeting and chamfer dimensions for the FACE pieces. This rabbet is for the glass, photo, and glass support backing Note: If you have a rabbeting bit with adjustable bearings you can rout the glass/photo rabbet after the frame face is assembled. This rabbet allows the frame face to sit in the rabbet on the frame sides Constructing the Face can be confusing. See the following page for a full description of how to rabbet and chamfer these edges. 1 Rout a 1/2 x 1/4 rabbet on one edge and across the end of each piece. 2 Rout a 3/8 x 5/16 rabbet along the opposite long edge of each piece. Do not rabbet the ends. 3 Rout a 45º Chamfer along one top edge and across the end of each piece. 4 Assemble frame face with pocket screws Plans may not be sold - Router Forums Secret Frame Project by Oliver : page 11
12 The Q Frame: Face Rabbeting Guide Face Top Temporary reference mark on this corner 1/2 deep by 1/4 wide rabbet on underside of these edges 45º chamfer along top of these edges 3/8 deep by 5/16 wide rabbet on underside of these edges 1 2 Lay the frame pieces on the bench and mark an upper left corner as shown. Rabbet the BLUE edges 1/2 x 1/4 to create a lip that lets the frame face sit in the frame sides. 3 Rabbet the GREEN edge 3/8 x 5/16 for the glass and glass support to fit under the frame face. 4 Chamfer the RED edges 1/8. NOTE: The pieces DO NOT have an overhang on the end opposite the marked end. Corner marked to avoid confusion while routing the rabbets and chamfers. Note the overhang on this end Plans may not be sold - Router Forums Secret Frame Project by Oliver : page 12
13 The Q Frame: Face Assembly 5 6 Assemble the face frame with pocket screws. Drill pilot holes and install four Turn Buttons to hold the 1/4 x 8 x 10 plywood Glass Support in place Plans may not be sold - Router Forums Secret Frame Project by Oliver : page 13
14 The Q Frame: The Inner Box A 9/32 hole in this stile locks engages a safety peg that locks the left side of the frame closed. The corner butt joints are glued and pin nailed. Brad nails, or counter-sunk screws will work also. Bottom (frame back) is attached with brads or staples. See Box - Latch Side Detail on page 16 for making this side 2013 Plans may not be sold - Router Forums Secret Frame Project by Oliver : page 14
15 The Q Frame: Box Exploded View Cantilever pivots to open and close A B D Shelf supports attach to underside of frame face. C E D A B A: Box Stiles 1/2 x 1 1/2 x 137/8 B: Box Rails 1/2 x 1 1/2 x 10 3/4 C: Divider 1/4 x 1 1/2 x 11 1/4 D: Cantilevers 1/2 x 3/4 x 5 1/4 E: Bottom 1/4 x 11 3/4 x 137/ Plans may not be sold - Router Forums Secret Frame Project by Oliver : page 15
16 The Q Frame: Box - Latch Side Detail 1/4 x 1/4 Dado for Box Divider This area is removed. The L-shaped opening engages the latch to lock the frame closed Drill the two 1/4 holes in Right Stile as shown for the latch. Cut out the latch area in the L shape shown in red. Align and drill a 9/32 in the Left Stile to match the location of the safety peg hole in the left stile of the frame side. A 3/8 length of 1/4 dowel can now be inserted in the frame side peg hole. 4 Cut the box divider dado. I did it with three passes from my regular table saw blade. 5 6 Dry fit the box sides and check the latch function. Drill a 1/4 hole for the cantilever pivot bolt in both RAILS located 5 from the end that meets the latch stile. Latch engaged Latch released 2013 Plans may not be sold - Router Forums Secret Frame Project by Oliver : page 16
17 The Q Frame: Cantilever Hinge Detail The cantilevers hinge the outer frame open and closed and have a 1/4 machine screw as a pivot where they attach to the box. They are attached to the under side of the outer frame face with 1/4 shelf supports and #8 x 1/2 screws. The shelf support pin is able to rotate in the cantilever arm as the arm pivots. 3/4 3/8 4 1/2 5 1/4 7 Counter sink the outside of the pivot holes enough for the flathead machine bolts to sit flush. 8 Assemble the sides of the box by gluing and pinnailing the corner butt joints. DO NOT INSTALL THE 1/4 BOX BACK 9 10 Drill 1/4 holes in each end of the Cantilever Hinges. Attach the cantilever hinges to the box rails with 1/4 x 1 1/4 flathead machine screws. The FACE can now be attached to the frame sides with glue and/or pin nails Plans may not be sold - Router Forums Secret Frame Project by Oliver : page 17
18 The Q Frame: Final Assembly Lay the outer frame assembly face down on the work bench. Set the box sides with cantilevers installed face down inside the outer frame. Push the box to the right making sure the safety peg is engaged. I used three business cards as a shim so the box is not too tight against the outer frame. 3 Swing the cantilevers down until the shelf supports meet the underside of the frame face, drill pilot holes for the #8 screws. 4 Attach the cantilevers to the frame face and test the hinge action Plans may not be sold - Router Forums Secret Frame Project by Oliver : page 18
19 The Q Frame: Final Assembly 5 With the hinges closed and the entire frame face down on the workbench, lay the box back in place and attach with brads, glue, or staples. 6 Use a keyhole bit to rout holes for hanging the frame. That s it! You re Done Plans may not be sold - Router Forums Secret Frame Project by Oliver : page 19
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