Installation Guide for 10 inch Davies Craig fan in SW20 Engine Lid.

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1 Installation Guide for 10 inch Davies Craig fan in SW20 Engine Lid. This manual is designed to guide you in installing a Davies Craig thermo fan in the lid of your MR2 to aid in reducing engine and intake temperatures. The advantages of this installation method over some others we have seen include: retention of factory rain shield, no external protrusions of mounting gear and a solid permanent mounting solution. Please note, as always this guide is provided purely as a resource. It does not guarantee the end quality of your installation. You are responsible for any modifications made to your car. It is recommended that you consult a qualified auto electrician before making any changes to your cars electrical system. Tools required. 10mm socket 10mm ring spanner Pair of needle nose pliers Medium size Philips head screwdriver Drill and 4mm drill bit. 2 small washers up to 10mm diameter Soldering Iron 10-15mm cable conduit (optional) 3 pairs of bullet (or similar) connectors (optional) 2m wire (use a nice thick gauge wire) 1

2 The Davies Craig 10 inch fan is a quality item using ball bearings for longer life. Although cheaper fans can be found, generally they use a sleeve in place of a bearing (similar to bathroom fans) and do not last as long or provide as much movement of air (measured in CFM cubic feet per minute). The fan can be reversed if need be, however it ships from the factory in the correct configuration for this application. We sourced our fans for between $90 - $100 inc GST each from Bursons in Victoria SPAL make an excellent 10 inch fan however availability of the pusher fan in Australia is limited and they are very expensive. This would have been my first choice. If you do want a SPAL fan visit STEP 1) Remove Engine Lid from Car. This step requires two people, it can be done with one as the lid is fairly light, however to reduce chance of panel damage get someone to help. Although it would be feasible to install the fan with the engine lid left on the car, the extra time required to do so, as well as the strain on your back means that the better option is to take it off. Remove temp sensor harness and fixings to the lid and remove two 10mm bolts holding temp sensor to rain shield. Remove lid by loosening the four 10 mm bolts securing it to the hinges. There are two bolts each side. Loosen each one part way and support lid before removing bolts completely. Once removed, lay lid face down on a stable surface like a work bench but ensure that it is covered by a soft cover such as a towel or blanket to prevent scratching/damage of the top of the lid. 2

3 STEP 2) Remove Rain Shield. Using the Philips head screwdriver, remove the various screws securing shield to lid. Take care in doing so as it is easy to strip the threads in the lid. Also remove two 10mm bolts at bottom of lid. Rain shield can now be pulled off and stored. STEP 3) Line Up Mounting Points on Lid. Remove fan from packaging and place onto the left side of lid (looking at it with the hinge mounting points at the bottom). Orient the fan so the leads are at the bottom, and the fan sits square. Take note of the four mounting points on the fan the two used for mounting to lid are highlighted in the picture. Use a ruler or straight edge and place between the centre of the fan mounting points and the raised section of the lid. Mark raised sections with a scribe or screwdriver. 3

4 Note that the line should intersect the right raised section between the two existing screw holes. And on the left so it is clear of the existing screw point. Using a 4mm drill bit, drill a hole (as shown in above pictures) under the marks made. Ensure it is mid way between the top of the raised section and the bottom of the lid. STEP 4) Mount Fan to Lid Now you have drilled the two holes, you are ready to mount the fan using the nuts and bolts supplied in the fan kit. Push the thread ends of the bolt though the drilled holes. On both sides use a washer to prevent nut pulling though raised section of lid. This step takes some time and a fair bit of fiddling. You will find that to get the bolt into the fan mount, you will need to lift up fan and turn it 90 degrees. Once the right side is in, the left side goes in fairly easy. Use the pliars to hold the end of the bolt with the screw provision, and use ring spanner to tighten nuts. Right side takes some time as nyloc nut does not turn easily. 4

5 Tighten both nuts to tension bolts to the point that the fan is well secured, but careful not to over tension as the bolts could pull through the holes drilled in the lid or warp the raised section. Once tightened the install should look like this: Side note notice the small o rings on the screw holes of the lid? Excellent way to reduce clunk noise when shutting engine lid. They insulate the pressed metal rain shield from the cover. 5

6 STEP 5) Replace Rain Shield on Lid and Remount Lid on Car. Replace screws and the two bolts securing the rain shield to the lid. Do not use drill or electric screwdriver for the screws as the inner threads on the lid are easily stripped. Notice the rain shield fits snug over the fan. Using your helper, replace engine lid on car. May need to slacken off bolts to ensure a proper fit on car before tightening fully. Make sure you open boot before dropping lid to avoid the two contacting if the lid is not properly lined up TIP If you found either removing or replacing the rain shield that the inner screw threads are stripped, use a product called JB Metal Weld (or similar) to fill in the screw holes. Allow to set then carefully!! drill out holes using an undersized drill (relative to screw diameter). Make sure you use a guide on the drill to avoid drilling right through lid. No need to tap holes, simply screwing the screws in will do the job. Problem fixed! STEP 5) Wire the Fan Up. I chose to the wire the fan into the existing intercooler fan which works well but causes a few issues (discussed later). Like most MR2 turbo owners, I have disconnected to the connector to the temperature sensor on the lid to enable the IC fan to run all the time. There are other power sources available such as from the fuse box, however I am not an auto elec and did not want to risk killing anything! Another option is to source power from the cabin if you intend to use a switch for the fan. The IC fan has a 20 amp fuse which is sufficient for both the 10 inch fan and a stock or upgraded IC fan. I won t go into too much detail here as its pretty self explanatory but ensure you use quality bullet connectors, make sure all joins are well insulated and take the time to solder joins instead of the old twist n tape method. This insures longevity, reduces headaches down the track and risk of shorts. Using conduit provides a much more factory look. From memory the blue wire on the fan is the earth wire (refer to fan instructions if in doubt). Note if you intend to use the IC power source: the stock IC fan relay is a thermo type and will not take the load of both fans. Don t worry though as the fuse protect the wiring and electrical system from overload and shorts. I bypassed the relay with a connector temporarily (this method throws the fan warning light on the dash) until I source a relay without a thermal overload. 6

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