Grandy Barn Door Console [1]

Transcription

1 [1] Submitted by Ana White [2] on Wed, :03 [1] Additional Photos Page 1 of 24

2 [3] Man oh man do I ever have a treat for you today! Do you follow Nikki Grandy on Instagram [4] yet? Page 2 of 24

3 If you do, you know she pretty much has redefined the sliding door console. My personal favorite is her reclaimed wood version with herringbone pattern doors. Page 3 of 24

4 How stunningly gorgeous is this barn door console? Yep, she's letting me share plans with you!!! The plans for this amazing barn door console follow, but one thing first hop over to Instagram and follow nikki_grandy right now [4]! Have an awesome Wednesday! Ana PS - barn door hardware has come down alot in price! Page 4 of 24

5 [5] $50 for 8 foot long sliding door hardware from Amazon [6] - and it has five star reviews! Page 5 of 24

6 [7] Barn Door Console Plans Summary: How to build barn door console or buffet - free plans by ANA-WHITE.com CategoriesProject Type: Console Table Plans [8] Buffet, Sideboard and Credenza Plans [9] Cabinet Plans [10] Media and Entertainment Centers [11] Barn Door Furniture [12] Room: Bedroom [13] dining room [14] entry way [15] living room [16] Skill Level: Intermediate [17] Dimensions: Dimensions shown above. Can be altered in height and width. Page 6 of 24

7 8 feet long 8 feet long 8 feet long 1 sheet of 1/4" thick plywood or hardboard (for back) 8 feet long 8 feet long 8 feet long 2 - project panel pieces 17-1/4" x 36" (may be advertised as 18" wide project panel - measure in store) Hardware for sliding doors Page 7 of 24

8 Common Materials: 2 1/2 inch screws 1 1/4 inch finish nails Elmer's Wood Glue [18] Elmer's Wood Filler [19] Tools: Tape Measure [20] Speed Square [21] Carpenter's Pencil [22] Safety Glasses [23] Hearing Protection [24] Drill [25] Compound Miter Saw [26] Table Saw [27] Brad Nailer [28] Cut List: Frames 84" 17" 14" Page 8 of 24

9 Sides 2-3/4" thick project panels or plywood 36" x 17-1/4" Face Frame 36" 17-3/4" Shelves 87" 87" Middle Shelf Supports and Cleats 14" 17" Back 1/4" plywood pieces 36" long Bottom Trim 90" - both ends cut at 45 degrees, NOT parallel, longest point measurement 18-3/4" - one end cut at 45 degrees, longest point Page 9 of 24

10 measurement Top 91" Doors are cut to fit, overall 20" x 30" General Instructions: Please read through the entire plan and all comments before beginning this project. It is also advisable to review the Getting Started Section. Take all necessary precautions to build safely and smartly. Work on a clean level surface, free of imperfections or debris. Always use straight boards. Check for square after each step. Always predrill holes before attaching with screws. Use glue with finish nails for a stronger hold. Wipe excess glue off bare wood for stained projects, as dried glue will not take stain. Be safe, have fun, and ask for help if you need it. Good luck! Page 10 of 24

11 [29] Build two frames out of 2x3s. The frames should be screwed together as this is the main support for the entire piece. Use 2-1/2" or longer screws, or for those of you with a Kreg Jig, use 1-1/2" pocket holes and 2-1/2" pocket hole screws. Don't forget to glue the joints. Don't be concrened about being perfect here, the entire frame is concealed. Page 11 of 24

12 [30] For the sides, add the side panels. This plan is designed to work with project panels 17-1/4" wide. You can use any material here, plywood or reclaimed wood too. I recommend screwing these to the frames, but you could also use nails and glue - nails should be at least 1-1/4" long. I love how the back overhangs by 1/4" to conceal the back (will put that on in later steps). Page 12 of 24

13 [31] Now the face frame. With the projec ton it's back, lay out all the face frame boards and glue and nail down. Nails should be at least 1-1/4" long. Pocket hole users could also build the face frame seperately and attach. Page 13 of 24

14 [32] Lay the bottom shelf boards down on the bottom frame. Nail and glue down, with nails longer than 1-1/4". There can be a gap between the boards, but the shelf should not go past the back of the bottom frame (sides overhang by 1/4" to allow for the back). Page 14 of 24

15 [33] These guys are for supporting the weight of the middle shelf. Nikki felt they weren't as necessary in a shorter span but for a longer shelf span, it's a good idea to have them. Plus, it also makes construction easier. Nail and glue down with 1-1/4" nails. You can also add two more at the back of the sides if you want. Step 5 Page 15 of 24

16 [34] Build your bottom shelf by attaching bottom shelf boards to the shelf cleats. Use 1-1/4" long nails and glue to attach. Can have a gap in the middle. Step 6 Page 16 of 24

17 [35] Place shelf inside console and attach from outsides to secure in place. Step 7 Page 17 of 24

18 [36] To get the planked look on the back of the console, Nikki ripped 1/4" plywood into strips and then attached the individual strips to the back. You can also use full sheet of 1/4" plywood. You can use shorter nails here but if you don't want to buy a shorter nail (3/4" would be ideal) the 1-1/4" nails would be fine. Page 18 of 24

19 [37] Step 9 Instructions: The bottom is trimmed out in simple 1x2s, mitered around corners. Use 1-1/4" nails and glue to secure. Page 19 of 24

20 [38] Attach top with the longer screws you used to build the top frames (2-1/2" or longer) so top is flush to back and side overhangs are even. TIP: You may wish to stain the top boards first. Step 11 Nikki built the doors shown with 1/2" plywood with smaller strips nailed on top, but you can use a variety of different methods to build the doors (love the reclaimed wood!) Nikki makes her own sliding door hardware too. Jaime from That's My Letter provides a good tutorial on her sliding door hardware if you want to check that out. Page 20 of 24

21 [39] Finishing InstructionsPreparation Instructions: Fill all holes with wood filler and let dry. Apply additional coats of wood filler as needed. When wood filler is completely dry, sand the project in the direction of the wood grain with 120 grit sandpaper. Vacuum sanded project to remove sanding residue. Remove all sanding residue on work surfaces as well. Wipe project clean with damp cloth. It is always recommended to apply a test coat on a hidden area or scrap piece to ensure color evenness and adhesion. Use primer or wood conditioner as needed. clickforplans: [40] Source URL: ding-door-console Links [1] onsole [2] [3] %20console%20plans_0.jpg [4] [5] Page 21 of 24

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24 nsole%20diy%20plans%20wood%20build%20step%205_0.jpg [34] nsole%20diy%20plans%20wood%20build%20step%206_0.jpg [35] nsole%20diy%20plans%20wood%20build%20step%207_0.jpg [36] nsole%20diy%20plans%20wood%20build%20step%208_0.jpg [37] nsole%20diy%20plans%20wood%20build%20step%209.jpg [38] nsole%20diy%20plans%20wood%20build%20step%2010.jpg [39] nsole%20diy%20plans%20wood%20build%20step%2011.jpg [40] Page 24 of 24