CHAPTER 1 - THE BEGINNING

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Felix Martin
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BASIC LESSONS IN LACE KNITTING with Dragonflylace 1 CHAPTER 1 - THE BEGINNING INTRODUCTION: This booklet is for anyone who wants to learn to knit lace or for those who might need a reference for

It is the result of increases (producing open areas) and various decreases to gather stitches to form a shape or to set off an area in a design.

You can knit lace motifs into a sock, a hat, a sweater, or in the traditional fashion in a shawl or decorative element such as a doily or table cover.

1 BASIC LESSONS IN LACE KNITTING with Dragonflylace 1 CHAPTER 1 - THE BEGINNING INTRODUCTION: This booklet is for anyone who wants to learn to knit lace or for those who might need a reference for basic skills necessary to knit motifs, patterns, or groups of stitches in a design. Lace is in my eyes, an art. It is the result of increases (producing open areas) and various decreases to gather stitches to form a shape or to set off an area in a design. Although we usually think of lace as being produced with fine yarns and threads, it is not the type of yarn, but the design which makes lace. You can knit lace motifs into a sock, a hat, a sweater, or in the traditional fashion in a shawl or decorative element such as a doily or table cover. I hope this booklet becomes a guide and companion to your knitting library. We will begin at the only place we can, at the beginning...learn a little, knit a little, then continue on a wonderful journey. THE DEFINITION OF LACE: Lace Definitions could involve a book or booklet of its own. In her book Wrapped in Lace, Margaret Stove refers to Knitted Lace (pattern worked on every row); Lace Knitting (pattern worked on alternate rows); Eyelet Lace (working with negative space instead of positive space for shaping); and Creative Lace (A term used to describe techniques used to express an idea).

2 BASIC LESSONS IN LACE KNITTING with Dragonflylace 2 Lace knitting is a style of knitting characterized by stable "holes" in the fabric arranged with consideration of aesthetic value. Lace is sometimes considered the pinnacle of knitting, because of its complexity and because woven fabrics cannot easily be made to have holes. Some consider "true" knitted lace has pattern stitches on both the right and wrong sides, and knitting with pattern stitches on only one side of the fabric, so that holes are separated by at least two threads, is technically not lace, but "lacy knitting", although this has no historical basis. PICTURES OF LACE: You can lose yourself for hours looking at Lace on the internet. Funny thing about the internet, I have yet to look for something and not found it; asked a question and not found the answer; or wanted to see a picture that wasn t there. {Interesting how something developed originally for collegiate and military communication has become a common part of our lives. But, it has, so I, like billions of other people, will make good use of it in this booklet.} I like the following little slide show. Not only is it historical in nature, but it shows the artistic nature of Lace. Sometimes it is nice to relax and let our mind have a break and just enjoy beauty. This is my favorite type of lace knitting. I knit in many styles, but this is my favorite. Did you ever watch a new bride-to-be try on Wedding Gowns? Most of the time, she will look through books, magazine, the racks and pick one. Although she may try on 20 or more, chances are the first one is her choice...her favorite from the beginning. So it is with my preference and although I show this to you now, please be assured, I will introduce you to all different styles as we journey together. This is a slide show of Estonian Lace: (hint...this is a slide show of historical treasures. It is from the Lacis Museum and produced by Nancy Bush. She has written many books on lace knitting of Estonia. If you just want to see the pieces...start the slide show and go to the right arrow at the bottom of small pictures and you can scroll through faster. These are just lovely pictures of lace. Links to Lace Knitted Projects: %20rectangu... Complex knitted shawls/scarves Niebling

3 BASIC LESSONS IN LACE KNITTING with Dragonflylace 3 search#query=mmario&sort=created&page=1&view=captioned_th... With the internet at our fingertips, you can spend hours looking at lace!!! But let s get on with knitting! DO I NEED TO BUY BOOKS OR PATTERNS? BOOKS: Not really. But they are nice to have. There are many books I would like and do not have; there are those I borrow from the library; then there are a few I own. These are a few from my collection. (I hesitate to use the word library.) Knitted Lace of Estonia Techniques, Patterns, Traditions by Nancy Bush Wrapped Lace Knitted Heirloom Designs from Around the World by Margaret Stove Knitted Lace A Collection of Favorite Designs from Interweave by Anne Merrow Knitted Lace Designs of Herbert Niebling by Eva Maria Leszner. [Yes, men were in the past and are now, some of the best designers of intricate lace patterns.] The First and Second Books of Lace Knitting by Marianne Kinzel...great books. The Haapsalu Shawl by Siiri Reimann and Aime Edasi (A new acquisition!) I also have a variety of knitting dictionaries and guides. Some are vintage publications I found at resale shops (my favorite), some are new (Vogue Stitchionaries are wonderful); some are ebooks and others are internet sites bookmarked for easy reference. PATTERNS: The only patterns I have purchased were when I first started knitting. They were helpful, but as I began to knit and find books, internet sources, and guide books, I stopped. With the technology we have today, you never need to purchase a pattern. That being said, you may at sometime or another really want to knit a project EXACTLY like a pattern you have seen. By all means, buy it, but before you do, try to find a similar project to the purchased pattern. You may be surprised at what you find. Consider this, how many projects will you repeat? You may want to knit more than one Winter s Mirage or Spring s Dance (mine are free, but suppose you find one that must be purchased). If I thought I would use this pattern more than once, AND if I really liked it, AND I knew the instructions were well written, then I would purchase it.

4 BASIC LESSONS IN LACE KNITTING with Dragonflylace 4 WHAT STITCHES DO I NEED TO KNOW? This is the purpose of this document. I want you to be able to knit a piece of lace, even if you have NEVER knitted anything but a plain knit or purl stitch. All the usual stitches will be covered: Knit, Purl, Yarn Over, Knit 2 together, and, slip 1 knit 1, pass slipped stitch over slipped stitch, Knit 3 together, and some other special stitches we will eventually learn. I would say that most know these stitches, but as I said, we will start at the beginning. Each stitch will be explained in detail...with pictures, written word descriptions, and youtube examples. We will then have practice projects to learn how to use them in lace knitting...why this method. Well, it wouldn t be very useful to just show you how to do a Yarn Over (YO). What happens if you lose it, drop it, wind it the wrong direction..anything can happen with a YO and we need it there, so I will show you how to keep it in place. MATERIALS YOU WILL NEED FOR LACE KNITTING: YARN: Although you can knit lace with almost any type of yarn...even worsted...i will use yarn that is designed for light, airy, designs that most of us associate with lace knitting. The best link for definitions about yarn weight are from the Standard Yarn Weights Standards published by the Craft Yarn Council. This is a chart that you can print. For mine, I copied and pasted it to a word document and then I put it is a plastic page holder...i use many of these with my charts and patterns. Standards and Guidelines for Crochet and Knitting. (You may not use everything in this little booklet, but it is nice to know where it is for reference purposes.) Explore around this site...it is so wonderful and informative. I am suggesting to begin with a sock or fingering weight yarn. (See the Craft Yarn Council site above.) However, you will want to use lace weight yarn as soon as you can. 1-ply is very fine, even gossamer in nature. I do not use this because it is not as readily available to me. Maybe in the future? In the United States, our lace weight is usually 2-ply. It is my favorite. I have used

5 Merino, Alpaca, Silk, Angora, Cashmere, Cotton, Bamboo, Kid mohair, and even viscose coated with Pearl dust (ooohhh, so soft, but not practical for the pocket book). If you asked me my favorite, I would say for all around lace, Alpaca. It is soft, flows nicely, has a little bit of a halo, but is not difficult to pull out (if it is necessary). If you are just beginning, but want to use a natural fiber, Merino wool is the most reasonable and to tell the truth, it is the one referred to most often in classic patterns. I purchased the majority of my yarn (needles, markers, etc.) from KnitPicks. Their service is excellent and their prices are very reasonable. {By the way, if you get on their list and sign up for their monthly catalogue, you will be alerted to some excellent sales during the course of a year.} They often have custom kits on sale. I sometimes purchase these kits, not for the pattern, but for the yarn. L htm A word about Mohair. First of all, I love it. It is so soft and has that halo that is to die for. I use it, but not for a project with a bobble, or in Estonian knitting, a nupp. The Mohair sticks to itself (like felting without the hot water). This makes it very difficult to take apart (frog, tink, rip-out...whatever you call that horrible thing we have to do at times). You end up spending time and energy pulling out each stitch. It is also hard on the yarn...you are stretching it, pulling it, and it may become frayed. So if you have a simple pattern without too much texture, you can a try...but I would wait until you have a few practices pieces completed. When learning to do the stitches, use something a bit larger for practice. I like the cotton yarns from KnitPicks, but those from big discount stores are also good to use, like Sugar and Cream. It is perfect for practice. Also, Hobby Lobby has I Love this Cotton brand. You can practice with these cottons and knit some lovely lace motifs into cotton wash cloths. These make great gifts when a soap is added. If you have DMC or Aunt Lydia's cotton thread, begin with a 10, 20, or 30 weight (the larger the number, the smaller the gauge of thread). Some think that cotton yarn (in worsted or DK weights) splits easily. That is true in a way. Remember, use the correct needle for the correct yarn and project. You don t need a knitting needle with a fine, sharp point for knitting with cotton such as Sugar and Creme. Use a bamboo, acrylic, or aluminum needle with a rounded end and your yarn will not split as much. NEEDLES: BASIC LESSONS IN LACE KNITTING with Dragonflylace 5 You do not need to use size 0000 to knit lace. In fact, in her books, Marianne Kinzel states that lace knitting started taking on a new look of openess and airyness when larger needles were used with fine lace weight yarns. You can use smaller pins or needles later when you become more confident and comfortable with lace stitches and techniques.

6 BASIC LESSONS IN LACE KNITTING with Dragonflylace 6 The size needle that we will use will be around 5,6, or 7...sometimes 4, but no smaller to begin. You can get beautiful designs with these average sized needles and the yarn weights listed above work well with these needles. There are many companies who have try-me kits of interchangeable needles with size 6,7, and 8. These are perfect and that size 6 is one of the more popular sizes I use. As we go forward, we will discuss gauge and sizes of needles more. If you are a tight knitter, you might want to go up a size. I am a VERY loose knitter...so with commercial patterns, I often go DOWN in size. STITCH MARKERS: I use two general types of stitch markers: those that are not adjustable and those that are removable. Ring type stitch markers in one or more sizes and colors are used between pattern repeats. Removable markers (that either have a little slit or those that look like a safety pin) are used to mark the right and wrong side of your knitting and sometimes at the edge to make a vertical pattern repeat. You can purchase these at most places where knitting needles are sold. But, there are also alternatives. I have a package of jump rings found in the beading and jewelry section of a craft store. There is a package of about 50 in different colors. They have a little jog separation in them and I just took my tweezers and closed up this notch...instant little stitch marker. These come in various diameters, just choose an average size. You can also use medium size safety pins for the removeable markers. And my personal favorite, colored paper clips...really, I never travel without them. They stay put and if I lose one, it isn t the end of the world. So explore your options and by all means, fit your budget. OTHER MATERIALS: You can add sticky notes, magnetic boards with flat magnets or rulers to mark the line you are on, or any of a dozen different methods to help you keep your place in written instructions or on a chart. I will cover this more in a section called Keeping up with Your Stitches. Waste Yarn or cotton crochet thread, tapestry needles, pens, pencils, paper, etc. are general items for making your project easier. CHAPTER 2 - THE DIAMOND MOTIF

The choice is yours, I would never ask you to change how you knit.

7 BASIC LESSONS IN LACE KNITTING with Dragonflylace 7 PURPOSE: In this section, you will learn the basic stitches for lace knit; learn how to read a chart; learn about lifelines; and knit a diamond motif to practice these skills. WHAT TYPE OF KNITTER ARE YOU? The choice is yours, I would never ask you to change how you knit. Everyone has their own way, but you often hear this discussed on line, so I thought I would show the two most popular styles. I could write an entire chapter on this. BASIC STITCHES USED IN LACE KNITTING:

BASIC LESSONS IN LACE KNITTING with Dragonflylace 8 YARN OVER

The Green yarn is pulled over the needle, but not knitted.

(2 nd picture is what it looks like) SKP: slip 1 st stitch,

The is a left slanted decrease and is most often preceeded by

stitch 2 nd and 3 rd pictures..slip stitch over knit stitch.

8 BASIC LESSONS IN LACE KNITTING with Dragonflylace 8 YARN OVER IN CONTINENTAL STYLE. The Green yarn is pulled over the needle, but not knitted. The needle is then passed through the next stitch and knitted as usual. This is a very common way to Make 1, or M1 in lace knitting. (2 nd picture is what it looks like) SKP: slip 1 st stitch, knit 1 stitch, pass slipped stitch over knit stitch (psso). The is a left slanted decrease and is most often preceeded by a YO or the YO is after the SKP. This stitch is also called SKS. First picture: slip then there is no picture for the Knit stitch 2 nd and 3 rd pictures..slip stitch over knit stitch. K2tog: Slip needle in front of the 2 nd stitch and catch the 1 st stitch also. Knit them together. This is a right slanting decrease and is most oftern preceeded by a YO or the YO is after the K2tog K3tog (Knit 3 together)

BASIC LESSONS IN LACE KNITTING with Dragonflylace 9 SK2P: SLIP 1, KNIT 2 TOGETHER, PASS SLIPPED STITCH OVER THE 2 KNITTED TOGETHER (S,K2tog,PSSO) WHAT IS A LIFELINE: A lifeline is very important to

) Then you just have to rip out to the lifeline and you can put your knitting needle through those stitches held by the lifeline and pick up from this place instead of starting all over.

9 BASIC LESSONS IN LACE KNITTING with Dragonflylace 9 SK2P: SLIP 1, KNIT 2 TOGETHER, PASS SLIPPED STITCH OVER THE 2 KNITTED TOGETHER (S,K2tog,PSSO) WHAT IS A LIFELINE: A lifeline is very important to keep your place in your design. (Shhhh, it is for if you have to rip out.) Then you just have to rip out to the lifeline and you can put your knitting needle through those stitches held by the lifeline and pick up from this place instead of starting all over. On this Motif project, since it is a beginning project, put your lifeline every 5 rows. Always put it in when you have finished your purl row (even row)...it is easier on this fresh row where you are ready to knit. Now Using a tapestry needle with a dull point, carefully thread a smooth yarn or thread in a contrasting color through the loops ON THE NEEDLE. Leave about 5 inches on each side or more if you like. You may choose to put in a new lifeline every 5 rows, or just move the first one. if the awful..."oh gosh, have to rip out those stitches..." then you will only have to rip out to the lifeline. You pick up the stitches by going through the live loops with the thread through them.

BASIC LESSONS IN LACE KNITTING with Dragonflylace 10 HOW DO I READ A CHART? The following instructions are for knitting back and forth on straight needles or on circulars (not joining in the round).

10 BASIC LESSONS IN LACE KNITTING with Dragonflylace 10 HOW DO I READ A CHART? The following instructions are for knitting back and forth on straight needles or on circulars (not joining in the round). 1. Every chart is read from bottom to top. Some charts have every row numbered (this is how I make them). Others are written where only the odd rows and shown. Instructions are given for the even rows and usually say: purl all even or wrong side (WS) rows. 2. The next step is to remember to read ALL odd rows from right to left. (1,3,5,etc.) [If you think about it, this is how you knit, from right to left.] 3. All even rows are read from left to right. [Think of it this way, IF you didn't turn your work and were to KNIT BACKWARDS, then the instructions would make sense to read left to right.] But when you turn your work, your design gets turned also, so you will ALWAYS read even rows left to right. Hint: our project will introduce the left to right reading, but if you look carefully, this project it is the same on even rows either way...trust me though, you want to know this for later projects). DIAMOND MOTIF CHART AND INSTRUCTIONS: You will see that this chart is very complete. It is a beginning chart and I show all the components: The garter border at the top, bottom, and sides plus all rows are shown. This is the first chart presented in this class. The very first time I taught this class, I left our the SK2P. I chose to put it in because the stitch in taught in the above sections. I still consider this a beginner s Project.

11 BASIC LESSONS IN LACE KNITTING with Dragonflylace 11 Pictures of the Finished Diamond Motif: Vermontmary s Motif Lillyhooch s motif Daylillydawn s Motif

12 BASIC LESSONS IN LACE KNITTING with Dragonflylace 12 DIAMOND MOTIF CHART: Knit on RS, Purl on WS Purl on RS, Knit on WS O Yarn Over \ SKP / K2tog Centers Center of chart Slip 1, K2tog, psso (SK2P) O O O / O O \ O O / O / \ O \ O O / O / O O \ O \ O O / O / O / \ O \ O \ O O / O / O / / O / O / O \ O \ O \ O O / O / O / \ O \ O \ O O / O / O / \ O \ O \ O O / O / O / \ O \ O O / O / \ O \ O O / O / 10 9 \ O O / 8 7 \ O O /

13 BASIC LESSONS IN LACE KNITTING with Dragonflylace 13 WRITTEN INSTRUCTIONS FOR CHART: Cast on 27 stitches using a knitted cast on. (you can use the long tail or others) (Note: Because you will always knit the first and last 3 stitches of every row in garter stitch, this pattern will state those stitches so you can get used to putting in a garter border.) Knit the first 4 rows in garter stitch. Row 5: Knit Row 6: Knit 3, Purl 21, Knit 3 Pattern begins: Row 7: Knit 3, Knit 8, K2tog, YO, knit 1 (center stitch), YO, SKP, Knit 8, Knit 3 Row 8: Knit 3, Purl 21, Knit 3 Row 9: Knit 3, Knit 7, K2tog, YO, Knit 3, YO, SKP, Knit 7, Knit 3 Row 10: Knit 3, Purl 21, Knit 3 Row 11: Knit 3, Knit 6, K2tog, YO, K2tog, YO, Knit 1, YO, SKP, YO, SKP, Knit 6, Knit 3. Row 12: Knit 3, Purl 21, Knit 3 (All even rows are repeats of Row 6, until the pattern end.) Row 13: Knit 3, Knit 5, K2tog, YO, K2tog, YO, Knit 3, YO, SKP, YO, SKP, Knit 5, Knit 3 Row 14: Repeat Row 6 Row 15: Knit 3, Knit 4, K2tog, YO, K2tog, YO, K2tog, YO, Knit 1, YO, SKP, YO, SKP, YO, SKP, Knit 4, Knit 3 Row 16: Repeat Row 6 Row 17: Knit 3, Knit 3, K2tog, YO, K2tog, YO, K2tog, YO, Knit 3, YO, SKP, YO, SKP, YO, SKP, Knit 3, Knit 3 Row 18: Repeat Row 6 Row 19: (Center Row of Motif) Knit 3, Knit 2, K2tog, YO, K2tog, YO, K2tog, YO, Knit 5, YO, SKP, YO, SKP, YO, SKP, Knit 2, Knit 3 Row 20: Repeat Row 6 Row 21: Knit 3, Knit 3, YO, K2tog, YO, K2tog, YO, K2tog, Knit 3, K2tog, YO, K2tog, YO, K2tog, YO, Knit 3, Knit 3. (This is not a mistake it is a turning row in the pattern) Row 22: Repeat Row 6 Row 23: Knit 3, Knit 4, YO, SKP, YO, SKP, YO, SKP, Knit 1, K2tog, YO, K2tog, YO, K2tog, YO, Knit 4, Knit 3 Row 24: Knit 3, Purl 21, Knit 3 Row 25: Knit 3, Knit 5, YO, SKP, YO, SKP, YO, SK2togP, YO, K2tog, YO, K2tog, YO, Knit 5, Knit 3 Row 26: Repeat Row 6, Purl across Row 27: Knit 3, Knit 6, YO, SKP, YO, SKP, Knit 1, K2tog, YO, K2tog, YO, Knit 6, Knit 3 Row 28: Repeat Row 6 Row 29: Knit 3, Knit 7, YO, SKP, YO, SK2P, YO, K2tog, YO, Knit 7, Knit 3 Row 30: Repeat Row 6 Row 31: Knit 3, Knit 9, YO, SK2P, YO, Knit 9, Knit3 Row 25: Knit 3, Knit 5, YO, SKP, YO, SKP, Knit 3, K2tog, YO, K2tog, YO, Knit 5, Knit 3 Row 26: Repeat Row 6 Row 27: Knit 3, Knit 6, YO, SKP, YO, SKP, Knit 1, K2tog, YO, K2tog, YO, Knit 6, Knit 3 Row 28: Repeat Row 6 Row 29: Knit 3, Knit 7, YO, SKP, Knit 3, K2tog, YO, Knit 7, Knit 3 Row 30: Repeat Row 6 Row 31: Knit 3, Knit 8, YO, SKP, Knit 1, K2tog, YO, Knit 8, Knit3 End of Pattern Row 32: Repeat Row 6 Row 33: Knit 27 Knit 4 rows of garter stitch. (Knit each row.) Now Bind off loosely.

14 BASIC LESSONS IN LACE KNITTING with Dragonflylace 14 STEP-BY-STEP: KNITTING THE MOTIF AND FOLLOWING A CHART: If you do not have a copy of the chart and instructions, try to print it separately. This will help, as you can hold your copies and follow along with me. In this section, I will take you word-forword and step-by-step through the process of knitting this motif. Even if you have never knitted a charted piece, you will be successful! So follow along with me. Get your needles and yarn together and let s begin: 1. First, look at the chart. In the upper left is a box that explains the symbols used for the stitches used in this motif. There are also two boxes for the marking of the center rows, columns, and the center of the motif. In the upper right is a text box. In here (and also in future projects) there will be general information about the design/project and a little information about beginning the design/project. 2. You will see that the chart shows dots that are on all four sides of the chart. These represent a garter stitch (or knit every row) border that will set off the design. The design itself is set inside a Stockinette background (stockinette is knit odd rows, purl even rows). 3. Clarification of the dots and spaces: If you look at the symbol box, it shows that a blank box will be knit on the right side (RS) and purl on the wrong side (WS). The large dot in space on the chart represents Purl on the RS and Knit on the WS. Remember odd rows are the RS and are usually knit or pattern rows and even rows are the WS and are usually purl rows. 4. Casting On: we could probably spend many pages and hours to discuss what is correct in casting on and what is not correct. Let's leave that to other discussions. I used a knitted cast on for this motif. It should be loose though. If you are a tight knitter, either use a larger needle to cast on or just pull your right needle out and to the left when you pass the stitch onto the left needle. Your cast off at the end will be loose and it is nice to have a nice even beginning and end. If you use the long-tail cast on, just go a little slower and it will be more loose. Cast on 27 stitches loosely. 5. Is this cast on the first row: I usually do not count it as the first row. There are some cases in lace knitting that you will graft one piece or part to another, so this cast on row could be used in that process. We will cover grafting in our 2nd or 3rd lace project...so don't be concerned with grafting. I only mentioned it because some knitters will ask why I do not count the cast on row. 6. Beginning: Now look at the Written Instructions page. The first line under the italics says: Knit the first 4 rows. Look at the chart. You will see row 1 is all blank. That is an odd row and is knit across. The second row is all dots, that is an even row, or WS row and according to the

15 BASIC LESSONS IN LACE KNITTING with Dragonflylace 15 symbol key, a dot is Knit on the WS, so we knit this row. Same thing for Rows 3 and 4. Thus we have our bottom garter stitch border. We have knit the first 4 rows. 7. Rows 5 and 6: These are what are commonly called set up rows. We are now getting ready to knit the motif and we need to establish our Stockinette Background, the middle part of the project. Row 5 is an odd row and is the right side. We knit this row because the spaces are all blank. Knit row 5 and turn your work. Now, look toward the left of the chart. This is where Row 6 begins. Row 6 is an even row (WS), it has 3 dots at the beginning [Remember the[b]even[/b] rows are read left to right.] We will knit the first 3 stitches and this is on the instructions and viewed on the chart. This is our garter stitch border. Now the written instructions say to purl 21 stitches. The next 21 rows are blank and the key says that a blank space on the WS is purled...so we purl those 21 stitches. The last 3 stitches...on the right side of the chart are dots. We knit those 3 stitches and this is our garter stitch border. Now...cast on and follow the instructions for the first 6 rows. The next row begins the pattern. Beginning the pattern row: Above the Row 7 instructions is says in bold print: "Pattern Begins". Remember we are only knitting one motif, there is not pattern repeat, you just knit the pattern once as explained in the instructions and shown in the chart. 1. Row 7: Reading from right to left and following written instructions > Knit 3, Knit 8. [I wrote it this way so you would start thinking of knitting the first and last 3 stitches of every row.] continueing...k2tog (knit 2 stitches together), YO (yarn over), KNIT 1 {This is your center stitch, some people put a removable stitch marker here to remind them..this stitch is highlighted in the instructions and marked in yellow on your chart. IT WILL ALWAYS BE A KNIT STITCH. continueing...yo, SKP (slip one stitch, knit one stitch, pass slipped stitch over knit stitch), Knit 8, Knit 3. (27 stitches or sts) Turn. 2. Row 8: Reading Right to Left: Knit 3, PURL 21, Knit 3 (27 sts) Turn. Hint: After you finish row 7 and before your "resting row" very gently pull your stitches down along the needle. This will put your yarn over, knit stitches, SKPs and K2togs in line and in order. on Row 8...read from right to left so that you can see in this project when you are purling into a yarn over and when you are purling into a decrease stitch, etc. How do I purl through a yarn over?

16 BASIC LESSONS IN LACE KNITTING with Dragonflylace 16 Purling into a yarn over may see a little fidgety at first, but just treat it as another stitch. Put your needle through the front of the yarn over. You can tell the from because it will lay at a slant from the left to the right over your needle. The front of the stitches kinda slants from your right to left. Now just slip your right needle under that loop hanging over the needle and purl it as usual. Hint: If you will put your row marker above the row that you are working on, then you can see the previous row and will know where your yarn overs and other stitches are supposed to be. 3. Row 9 [this is a knit row, you are going to knit the pattern again. Reading the chart from right to left (also on written instructions) Knit 3, Knit 7, K2tog, YO, Knit 3 (there is one stitch on each side of your center stitch..these 3 stitches are the middle of row 9)...continueing.. YO, SKP, Knit 7, Knit 3. Turn. Can you see? Can you see that the left side of the chart is like a mirror image of the right side?on the right side we are making K2tog that is a right slanting decrease and on the left side, we are making SKP that is a left slanting decrease. 4. Row 10 is another resting row, Reading from left to right in order to watch your YOs and decrease stitches...knit 3, Knit 7, Purl 21, Knit 7, Knit 3. Hint: Sometimes, I take a pencil and write in the numbers for the amount of knit stitches AFTER the knit 3 garter border...so I put and 8 on row 7 kinda in the middle of the 8 stitches..in one of the blank spaces...that way, I don't have to stop and count the number to knit before the pattern. I do this as part of my chart preparation for myself. I read from the chart only and this is what I want to teach you...so take just a minute, if you would like and write in your number of knit stitches on the odd row, AFTER the knit 3 garter. In order to complete the SKP...you slip the first stitch on your needle from the left needle to the right needle. Next you knit a stitch. Now that stitch is also on the right needle. Now, take the tip of your left needle and slip it into the first (slipped) stitch and pull it gently over the stitch that you knitted. Now you have your decrease.

SPRING S DANCE by DRAGONFLYLACE

SPRING S DANCE by DRAGONFLYLACE 1!! An Original Design by Dragonﬂylace. All Rights Reserved. For Personal Use Only. March, 2013 SPRING S DANCE by DRAGONFLYLACE 2 Materials: Yarn: 2-ply lace weight Needles: