DWD Free Pattern #17 Basic Cardigan for Mattel s Barbie Doll

Transcription

1 DWD Free Pattern #17 Basic Cardigan for Mattel s Barbie Doll The pattern I designed is a basic shaped cardigan for Mattel s Barbie. It has an easy raglan sleeve design with instructions for long as well as short sleeves. The cardigan s front bands are worked in a seed stitch pattern while you knit the body so there is no need to pick up stitches at the end. The only difficult part is the very small gauge I used in order to make it in scale for this doll. The pattern is quite versatile and you can use it to make Barbie several kinds of sweaters. Once you get used to the micro knitting your Barbie can have a wonderful array of sweaters. Rating: #2 Intermediate. Although you only need to know how to knit and purl, you must be able to read instructions, and increase and decrease stitches. Uses very fine lace weight (2- ply) yarn on size 5/0 (00000 or 1 mm) needles with a gauge 19 stitches per inch and 26 rows per inch. DollsWest Designs Cynthia Berrier 532 Crestview Road Kalispell, MT dollswest@centurytel.net 1

2 Basic Shaped Cardigan for Barbie Yarn: Filatura di Crosa Nirvana Merino Wool lace weight yarn from Gauge 19 stitches per inch, 26 rows per inch on 5/0 (00000 or 1.0 mm) needles in stockinette stitch. Supplies: 100 yards or meters yarn, six 1/8-inch (2 mm) buttons Model is wearing Natural ( does ship worldwide) READ THROUGH INSTRUCTIONS BEFORE YOU BEGIN! TAKE TIME TO CHECK YOUR GAUGE! Important note regarding knitting with 5/0 needles and very fine yarn: If you have not knit with any needles smaller than a size 2 (or 3mm) needle, I would highly suggest you start out with some of my other free patterns that use a size 2/0 (00 or 1.75 mm) needles. Or if you feel you are up to it, knit a few practice blocks or perhaps a scarf for your doll using the 5/0 (00000 or 1 mm) needles with the recommended yarn mentioned above. Even I found knitting with this yarn a challenge. It is rather bouncy and often splits. You MUST hold the yarn with a consistent tension in order to produce even stitches. And be careful not to drop any stitches. It is difficult to pick them up. I recommend using Hiya Hiya steel circular needles in either 16-inch or 20-inch length. Definition: tbl : through back loop (I use this method for a simple K1, P1 rib as it makes the stitches tighter and neater looking on a small scale sweater. If you wish, you can do a simple K1, P1 rib.) Sleeves (Long): Using 5/0 (1.0 mm) needles, Cast on 27 sts Start Rib Pattern and work as follows: Row 1: (RS) K1, [P1, K1 tbl]* Repeat to last 2 sts, P1, K1 Row 2: (WS) P1, [K1 tbl, P1]* Repeat to end Repeat rows 1 and 2 through row 8 Row 9: (RS) Begin stockinette stitch, K all sts Row 10: (WS) P Rows 11 through row 22: Repeat rows 9 and 10, working even in stockinette stitch pattern Row 23: (RS) K1, M1, K to last st, M1, K1 (29 sts) Rows 24 through row 42: Repeat rows 9 and 10, working even in stockinette stitch pattern Row 43: (RS) K1, M1, K to last st, M1, K1 (31 sts) Rows 44 through row 64: Repeat rows 9 and 10, working even in stockinette stitch pattern Row 65: (RS) Cast off (Bind off) 2 stitches at beginning of row. Knit rest of sts (29 sts) Row 66: (WS) Cast off (Bind off) 2 stitches at beginning of row. Purl rest of sts. (27 sts) Row 67: (RS) K1, SSK, Knit to last 3 sts, K2tog, K1. (25 sts) Cut yarn, leaving at least an 8-inch tail. Leave sleeve on spare needle. Work second sleeve in the same manner. Steam and block sleeves while they are flat. Do NOT stretch out the ribbing. Let dry thoroughly while you work on the body. 2

3 Sleeves (short): Using 5/0 (1.0 mm) needles, Cast on 29 sts Start Rib Pattern and work as follows: Row 1: (RS) K1, [P1, K1 tbl]* Repeat to last 2 sts, P1, K1 Row 2: (WS) P1, [K1 tbl, P1]* Repeat to end Repeat rows 1 and 2 through row 8 Row 9: (RS) K1, M1, K to last st, M1, K1 (31 sts) Row 10: (WS) P all sts Row 11: (RS) K all sts Row 12: (WS) P all sts Rows 13 through row 20: Repeat rows 11 and 12, working even in stockinette stitch pattern Row 21: (RS) Cast off 2 stitches at beginning of row. Knit rest of sts (29 sts) Row 22 (WS) Cast off 2 stitches at beginning of row. Purl rest of sts. (27 sts) Row 23: (RS) K1, SSK, Knit to last 3 sts, K2tog, K1. (25 sts) Cut yarn, leaving at least an 8-inch tail. Leave sleeve on spare needle. Work second sleeve in the same manner. Steam and block sleeves while they are flat. Let dry thoroughly while you work on the body. Note: If you wish a three-quarter-length sleeve, work the same as the short sleeve version, except knit through row 44, then work your three reduction rows on 45, 46, and 47. Body: NOTE: The first five stitches and last five stitches will be worked in a seed stitch pattern. This will form your front bands. This will be worked on EVERY row and written as [P1, K1, P1, K1, P1]. Working this same stitch pattern on every row creates your seed stitch pattern so it will look apart from the stockinette stitch pattern used on your sweater body. I placed a marker between my body and the front bands. This is optional and will not be mentioned in the instructions. On the RIGHT front band, you will be working 6 buttonholes. The buttonholes will be worked on the following row numbers: Body: rows 4, 17, 30 and 43 Raglan reduction section: row 12 Neckline Ribbing: row 3 The instructions will be given on the above rows. I have highlighted the specified rows in BOLD. This spacing is for the length of the body given. If for some reason you change your row count, you will need to adjust your buttonhole placements. You will also be increasing the stitch count on 4 rows in order to shape the sweater for Barbie. I give instructions for two methods you can use to increase stitches. You can choose whichever one you prefer. However, use the same method for all four rows. I have underlined the row number you are to work the increases on. The increase rows are: 11, 17, 23 and 29. 3

4 Using 5/0 (1.0 mm) needles, Cast on 85 sts. Start Rib Pattern and work as follows: Row 1: (RS) [P1, K1, P1, K1, P1], [K1 tbl, P1]* Repeat to last 6 sts, K1 tbl, [P1, K1, P1, K1, P1] Row 2: (WS) [P1, K1, P1, K1, P1], P1, [K1 tbl, P1]*Repeat to last 5 sts, then [P1, K1, P1, K1, P1] Row 3: (RS) Repeat row 1 Row 4: (WS) [P1, K1, P1, K1, P1], P1, [K1 tbl, P1]*Repeat to last 5 sts, then [P1, K1, YO, K2tog, P1] Rows 5 through 10: Repeat rows 1 and 2 Row 11: (RS) Begin stockinette stitch, while continuing to work front bands [P1, K1, P1, K1, P1], [K9, KFB]* Work 7 times then K to front band, [P1, K1, P1, K1, P1] (92 sts sts) NOTE: I found working KFB rather than a M1 stitch, as it eliminated holes. This is the method I prefer to add in stitches across a row. If you prefer the M1 method, here are the instructions: [P1, K1, P1, K1, P1], [K10, M1]* Work 7 times then K to front band [P1, K1, P1, K1, P1] (92 sts) Row 12: (WS) [P1, K1, P1, K1, P1], P to last 5 sts, [P1, K1, P1, K1, P1] Rows 13 through row 16: Work even in stockinette stitch pattern while continuing to work the first five and last five sts in your established seed stitch pattern for the front bands Row 17: (RS) [P1, K1, YO, K2tog, P1], [K10, KFB]* Work 7 times then K to front band, [P1, K1, P1, K1, P1] (99 sts) Or work the following: [P1, K1, YO, K2tog, P1], [K11, M1]* Work 7 times then K to front band, [P1, K1, P1, K1, P1] Row 18: Repeat row 12 Rows 19 through 22: Work even in stockinette stitch pattern while continuing to work the first five and last five sts in your established seed stitch pattern for the front bands Row 23: (RS) [P1, K1, P1, K1, P1], [K11, KFB]* Work 7 times then K to front band, [P1, K1, P1, K1, P1] (106 sts) Or work as: [P1, K1, P1, K1, P1], [K12, M1]* Work 7 times then K to front band, [P1, K1, P1, K1, P1] (106 sts) Row 24: (WS) Repeat row 12 Rows 25 through 28: Work even in stockinette stitch pattern while continuing to work the first five and last five sts in your established seed stitch pattern for the front bands Row 29: (RS) [P1, K1, P1, K1, P1], [K12, KFB]* Work 7 times then K to front band, [P1, K1, P1, K1, P1] (113 sts) Or work as: [P1, K1, P1, K1, P1], [K13, M1]* Work 7 times then K to front band, [P1, K1, P1, K1, P1] (113 sts) Row 30: (WS) [P1, K1, P1, K1, P1], P to last 5 sts, [P1, K1, YO, K2otg, P1], Rows 31 through row 42: Work even in stockinette stitch pattern while continuing to work the first five and last five sts in your established seed stitch pattern for the front bands Row 43: (RS) [P1, K1, YO, K2tog, P1], K25, Bind off 6 sts, K41, Bind off 6 sts, K25, [P1, K1, YO, K2tog, P1] (101 sts) While body is flat, steam and block it. Let dry thoroughly. See photo on last page to see how I block mine so it keeps the correct shape. 4

5 Row 42: (WS) [P1, K1, P1, K1, P1], P to first bind off section, place marker, purl in first sleeve from your spare in the bind off section, place marker, P to second bind off section, place marker, purl in second sleeve in the bind off section, place marker, P to last 5 sts, [P1, K1, P1, K1, P1] (151 sts) You will have 4 markers on your needles. You will need to squish the sleeve stitches in between each front and back section. You will NOW be knitting the front, sleeve, back, sleeve, and front. After working a few decrease rows, the knitting will become easier. You will now begin to work decrease for simulated raglan sleeves. You will be reducing the stitch count by 8 sts on every odd numbered (right side) row. Row count begins again! Row 1: (RS) [P1, K1, P1, K1, P1] [K to 2 sts before marker, K2tog, sl marker, SSK]* Work four times then K to last 5 sts, [P1, K1, P1, K1, P1] (143 sts) Row 2: (WS) [P1, K1, P1, K1, P1] P to last 5 sts, [P1, K1, P1, K1, P1] Rows 3 through 11: Repeat rows 1 and 2. Row 12: (WS) [P1, K1, P1, K1, P1] P to last 5 sts, [P1, K1, YO, K2tog, P1] Rows 13 through 22: Repeat rows 1 and 2: Stitch count on row 22 = 63 sts Remove markers while purling across row 22 Keep all live stitches on needle. DO NOT CUT YARN! Neck ribbing: Row 1: (RS) [P1, K1, P1, K1, P1], [K1 tbl, P1]* Repeat to last 6 sts, K1 tbl, [P1, K1, P1, K1, P1] Row 2: (WS) [P1, K1, P1, K1, P1], P1, [K1 tbl, P1]*Repeat to 5 sts, then [P1, K1, P1, K1, P1] Row 3: (RS) [P1, K1, YO, K2tog, P1], [K1 tbl, P1]* Repeat to last 6 sts, K1 tbl, [P1, K1, P1, K1, P1] Row 4: (WS) Repeat row 2 Rows 5 and 6: Repeat rows 1 and 2 Row 7: (RS) Bind off all sts in pattern Seam up sleeve seams and under arm seam. Weave in all yarn ends. Sew six small buttons (1/8 inch) on left front side to match up with buttonholes. Steam and block and let dry thoroughly. NOTE: My Barbie is the 35 th Anniversary special that was out several years ago. I do not know if she is the same size as a brand new Barbie. Do check your fit while you are knitting if you are using another Barbie body or a doll similar to Barbie. 5

6 Abbreviations Beg Beginning B/O Bind off (cast off sts) C4F Slip 2 sts onto cn and hold at front of work, K2, K2 from cn C4B Slip 2 sts onto cn and hold at back of work, K2, K2 from cn CC Contrast Color CN Cable needle C/O Cast on Cont Continue Dc Double crochet Dec Decrease DPN(s) Double pointed needle(s) Foll Following Inc Increase KFB Knit 1 in front and back of stitch K2tog Knit 2 together K3tog Knit 3 together M1 Make one M1P Make one Purl MC Main Color P Purl P2tog Purl 2 together PFB Purl1 in front and back of stitch PM Place Marker PSSO Pass slipped stitch over Rem Remaining Rep Repeat RS Right Side Sc Single crochet Sl slip SKP Slip, Knit, Pass SK2P Slip 1, Knit 2 together, Pass slipped stitch over SSK Slip, Slip, Knit OR slip 2 stitches one at a time, knit 2 slipped stitches together St(s) Stitch(es) St st Stockinette stitch WS Wrong side WYIB With yarn in back WYIF With yarn in front Yfwd Yarn forward, or to the front, knit next stitch YO Yarn Over NEEDLE SIZE US Size 5/0 4/0 3/0 2/ Metric size 1mm 1.2mm 1.5mm 1.75mm 2mm 2.5mm 3 mm 6

7 RULES TO KNIT BY For successful doll knitting, I have found the following Rules to Knit By work every time to produce successful results. 1. Make a swatch and check your gauge. I knit up my swatch and let it rest over night. This way the yarn has a chance to relax and be more accurate. Also, and even more important, check your gauge (tension) while you are knitting. Keep an even tension and correct it early to avoid wasting hours of knitting only to have a sweater that does not quite fit! 2. Read through the instructions first, before you begin. Check all the terms and abbreviations used to make sure you understand how the garment is to be made. If there is a new technique in the pattern, practice it first on a scrap piece before you attempt it on your garment. 3. For doll knitting, I found knitting only with natural yarns work the best. I prefer wool, silk, alpaca or blends of these yarns. I do not like to waste my time on inferior yarns. I do not recommend sock yarn for any of my patterns. 4. Steam and block your sweater! This is like pressing when you sew. I do it several times while knitting. This insures a wonderful finished product that looks professional. 7

8 Blocking Sweater Body: NOTE: I block all my sweaters on my counter top in the laundry room. I use a portable ironing pad I purchased from Joann s. It has a nice cushy pad. On top I fold a white terry towel in half. I place my sweater on the towel and stick my pins straight down into the sweater. I use a good steam iron on the wool setting and hover above about 1 inch. I push my steam button on my iron for a few bursts of steam. I lightly press with my fingers to make sure it is even and smooth. Then I let the garment dry a few hours or overnight. The round dark spots you see are the shadows from my pin heads! 8