BLOCK INTRODUCTION AND USER GUIDE. alva INTRODUCTION. Alvanon's Approach to Fit. What Are AlvaBlocks? ( v1.0 )

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( v1.0 ) INTRODUCTION AND USER GUIDE INTRODUCTION

leader in providing full service, integrated fit

valued by the world's leading brands and retailers.

brands, retailers and manufacturers increase full

to market and decrease product development costs.

AlvaBlocks are base level blocks created

These pattern templates address key parameters that

AlvaBlock is used as the basis to create the best

1 ( v1.0 ) INTRODUCTION AND USER GUIDE INTRODUCTION Alvanon's Approach to Fit Alvanon is the global leader in providing full service, integrated fit solutions for the apparel industry. Our strategic consultancy and practical implementation of fit mannequins and tools are valued by the world's leading brands and retailers. Our holistic approach to fit and sizing helps brands, retailers and manufacturers increase full price sell-through, reduce returns, increase speed to market and decrease product development costs. What Are AlvaBlocks? AlvaBlocks are base level blocks created specifically for AlvaForms. These pattern templates address key parameters that ensure garments are perfectly balanced and technically well-fitted. Bad fit is the primary reason why developmental samples are rejected. During the product development process, the AlvaBlock is used as the basis to create the best fitting style pattern for the AlvaForm. The AlvaForm is used as the fit standard for sample evaluation. AlvaBlocks ensure your vendor base has the right tools to create accurate fit samples the first time, resulting in a shortened product development time. 1 / 5

PACKAGE CONTENTS Core Size AlvaBlock Deliverables AlvaBlock Core

dxf 1 Plotted Core Size AlvaBlock Pattern Full AlvaBlock core size

AlvaBlock Graded Pattern Image AlvaBlock Deliverables Graded

rul 1 Plotted Graded AlvaBlock Pattern Full AlvaBlock grade

2 PACKAGE CONTENTS Core Size AlvaBlock Deliverables AlvaBlock Core size pattern file in CAD Format:.dxf 1 Plotted Core Size AlvaBlock Pattern Full AlvaBlock core size documentation including: Technical Spec AlvaPhoto images of AlvaBlock Graded Pattern Image AlvaBlock Deliverables Graded AlvaBlock pattern in CAD format:.dxf/.rul 1 Plotted Graded AlvaBlock Pattern Full AlvaBlock grade documentation including: Graded Block Technical Spec Graded Block Incremental Spec x/y Grade coordinates for each pattern piece Nested Pattern Image 2 / 5

ALVA TECHNICAL COMPONENTS Darts All AlvaBlock darts are indicated to show where the darts are located and the dart amount at each location All dart manipulation is also indicated, on both pattern and

The proper relationship of the pattern pieces is maintained to insure balance and good technical fit.

3 ALVA TECHNICAL COMPONENTS Darts All AlvaBlock darts are indicated to show where the darts are located and the dart amount at each location All dart manipulation is also indicated, on both pattern and garment Each AlvaBlock is developed from your AlvaForm fit standard, using the forms specific shape, measurements and angles. The proper relationship of the pattern pieces is maintained to insure balance and good technical fit. Each base level garment block has standard ease appropriate to the fit category and very basic components. Functional darts are sewn to the bust point to identify the dart pivot point Non-functional darts are also still indicated to the bust point In the example below, for this Dart-less Blouse, the darts have been manipulated as ease, and are non-functional, therefore identified with dotted lines Balance lines: Each block has balance line at key measurement points Chest, Waist, Hip, Thigh, Bicep, Knee, Elbow These balance lines correspond to the form, the pattern and the spec measurement point; they move with the appropriate manipulation. They are not just redrawn lines on the pattern Piece Relationship: For tops the sleeve cap height, cap width and bicep are directly related to the armhole height, armhole width and chest girth For bottoms the crotch height and crotch width must be balanced to the body shape 3 / 5

USING BALANCE LINES TO PROPERLY DRESS ALVAS ON ALVAFORMS Woven Tops: Align the

waist line of the form Smooth the garment across the shoulder area, making sure

they are not twisted from the dressing process Woven Bottoms: Align the block at

natural waist position, or at the adjusted waist position, if applicable Adjust

they are not twisted from the dressing process For all Knit Styles - Tops and

extra care must to be taken to ensure the fabric is not stretched or twisted in

4 USING BALANCE LINES TO PROPERLY DRESS ALVAS ON ALVAFORMS Woven Tops: Align the block waist balance lines front and back so they are evenly placed over the waist line of the form Smooth the garment across the shoulder area, making sure the shoulder seam placement aligns with the form Adjust the sleeves to ensure they are not twisted from the dressing process Woven Bottoms: Align the block at center front and center back with the form, positioning the garment at the natural waist position, or at the adjusted waist position, if applicable Adjust pant legs to ensure they are not twisted from the dressing processes to ensure they are not twisted from the dressing process For all Knit Styles - Tops and Bottoms: ln addition to following the same guidelines as for woven garments, extra care must to be taken to ensure the fabric is not stretched or twisted in the dressing process Garment should be as relaxed as possible when placed on the form for evaluation 4 / 5

FITTING COMPARISON: THE ALVAFORM VS THE LIVE FIT MODEL The AlvaForm: The form is the standard fit tool.

The Model: Should be evaluated carefully for both measurement and shape when compared to the form The model should be used for checking functional movement and comfort of the style garment STYLE

5 FITTING COMPARISON: THE ALVAFORM VS THE LIVE FIT MODEL The AlvaForm: The form is the standard fit tool. It does not change shape or measurement over time AlvaBlocks are developed to the AlvaForm s measurements, shape and angles Fit Evaluation - Garment balance and ease - should be checked on the form The Model: Should be evaluated carefully for both measurement and shape when compared to the form The model should be used for checking functional movement and comfort of the style garment STYLE DEVELOPMENT USING THE ALVAS ALVA With standard ease for fit type and movement with no fit discomfort Standard basic components BRAND STYLE TECHNICAL PACKAGE Yields Many Different Production Styles In addition to the standard technical package, including technical design sketch and specification, Brand provides vendor with the appropriate AlvaBlock pattern, including all related specification information Vendor adds style design, required ease over body, components, fabric adjustments, trims etc. Silhouette, design intent and Brand vision all impact the ease of movement and functionality of a production style garment Style level garments should always be evaluated on the mannequin standard for shape and fit, and secondarily, on a model for ease of movement and functionality, as intended in the Brand vision 5 / 5

USING BALANCE LINES TO PROPERLY DRESS ALVAS ON ALVAFORMS Woven Tops:

placed over the waist line of the form Smooth the garment across the

the form Adjust the sleeves to ensure they are not twisted from the

center back with the form, positioning the garment at the natural

Adjust pant legs to ensure they are not twisted from the dressing

For all Knit Styles - Tops and Bottoms: ln addition to following the

ensure the fabric is not stretched or twisted in the dressing process

6 USING BALANCE LINES TO PROPERLY DRESS ALVAS ON ALVAFORMS Woven Tops: Align the block waist balance lines front and back so they are evenly placed over the waist line of the form Smooth the garment across the shoulder area, making sure the shoulder seam placement aligns with the form Adjust the sleeves to ensure they are not twisted from the dressing process Woven Bottoms: Align the block at center front and center back with the form, positioning the garment at the natural waist position, or at the adjusted waist position, if applicable Adjust pant legs to ensure they are not twisted from the dressing processes to ensure they are not twisted from the dressing process For all Knit Styles - Tops and Bottoms: ln addition to following the same guidelines as for woven garments, extra care must to be taken to ensure the fabric is not stretched or twisted in the dressing process Garment should be as relaxed as possible when placed on the form for evaluation 4 / 5

PATTERNS, SHAPES & GRADING. Kohl s Technical Design - Apparel October 2018

PATTERNS, SHAPES & GRADING. Kohl s Technical Design - Apparel October 2018 PATTERNS, SHAPES & GRADING Kohl s Technical Design - Apparel October 2018 Table of Content oneplm... Pages 3-7 Fit library Reference Repeat Training Sample Room & MR Blocks.. Pages 8-12 What is block(what