One Piece Dress By: kathariney

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1 1O One Piece Dress By: kathariney An asymmetrical silk dress I made with one side seam only. No darts or anything else besides the left side seam with zipper, and those pleats at the neckline. It just drape on the right side following your movement and do whatever the fabric wants to. I loved this dress a lot, but after gaining a few pounds, the dress got too snug on me :( * I made a How-to, for those who are interested in seeing how i made this dress. Materials Double faced charmeuse, China Silk Step 1 Basically this dress have only one piece of pattern, one left side seam (with invisible zipper) and a couple of pleats at neckline and left armhole to hold the drape.

2 Step 2 Grab the muslin, pin it on Center Front (if you have to know it s on straight grain at this point, but it doesn t really matter). Then pleat the way you want, while keeping the Right Side Seam flat and close to the mannequin. So basically, you re pleating what should be a bust dart, but keeping it semi loose to have some drape. For the neckline, you ll get something like the picture (or even more distorted), a stretched out and distorted right shoulder. Step 3 While working with the neckline you ll bunch up some fabric at the Right Side Seam around waist for the drape, You might need a pleat under the left armhole, if you want that drape across waist (see pic). Mark both Side Seams all the way down. (for the right side, dotted the side seam, don t worry about the seam not being smooth because of the fold) Step 4 For the back it s a simple tank. (maybe less shape-y on the side seam)

3 Step 5 Then trace both Front and Back onto paper, Line them up against each other. Try to balance them as close as they can (meaning as close the armholes can be to each other, while the hem can stay close so it keeps a narrow pencil skirt shape, but the hip doesn t overlap tooo much). You just have to play around with them. If you take out an 1" at the right side seam, add it back up on the left side seam. Step 6 Blend the armhole and Hem. (The Right armhole might not level as nice as in the picture, try your best, don t raise too much on the front. I d raise the front 25%, and lower the back armhole 75%. Make a nice smooth curve. Step 7 Put the bias grain at the side seam. I cut a muslin and quickly check if i need to adjust anything. maybe a bigger or longer fold here and there to get the drape i want) And most likely you ll have to shorten the shoulder strap a bit.

4 Step 8 (no co-ordinate picture with this step) * For cutting the actual dress: Cut 1 Self Fabric, 1 Lining (make sure the lining face down so the right side of the fabric is touching your skin) * For Sewing the dress: Sew Neckline and armhole to the lining. I made the shoulder too narrow so I had some hand sewing work there. Under stitch the seam allowance to the lining. Finish the Left side Seam with invisible zipper. Step 9 Then put the dress back on the mannequin, and fold those pleats back on, both layers together, and stitch them up. Make sure the fabric doesn t have weird twist when you pin. (Remember it s not a dart, so don t sew it closed all the way, leave the end open for the drape). Step 10 You ll have the seam allowance haning on the lining side (touching your skin). Fold the seam allowance to the side so that it won t show on the outside, and hand stitch it (both layer of the seam allowance) down to the lining layer. The hand stitching indicated in blue should be on the other side of the machine stitching indicated in red. Sorry about that Make sure you don t hand stitch through the self fabric. and we re almost there.

5 Step 11 I put the dress on and have someone to level and mark the hem for me. As this dress just does whatever she wants, so you ll never get a perfectly even and straight hem, but that s what I like about this dress. Blind stich the hem on the self fabric, and baby hem the lining (1" shorter then the self). Voila! Hope it helps for those who re interested in this dress :) Thanks everyone. One Piece DressS

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